The Complete Idiot's Guide to Organic Living
Author: Eliza Sarasohn; Sonia Weiss
Date: 2009-02-03T05:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Health & Fitness; General; House & Home
Description: Everyone knows that we should be doing more to be good to our body, but moving toward an organic lifestyle can be overwhelming. This guide provides step-by-step information on everything from food to cleaning products to how to detoxify our bodies. It includes choosing quality natural products, exploring holistic alternatives to conventional medicine, and determining what to eat - and what not to eat. - Global market for organic products reached $38.6 billion in 2006 - Practical, step-by-step advice for making the transition About the Author Eliza Thomas is a writer, editor, and environmental
Publisher: ALPHA

Table of Contents

Title Page
Copyright Page
Introduction

Part 1 - The Best Things in Life Are Organic

Chapter 1 - What Is Organic Living?

Chapter 2 - Toward an Organic Planet

Chapter 3 - What Living Organically Does for You

Chapter 4 - Living the Organic Life

Part 2 - Mmm, Mmm, Organic

Chapter 5 - Making the Move to Organic Food
Chapter 6 - Shopping Organic
Chapter 7 - Cooking Organic

Part 3 - Going Organic from the 3 Ground Up

Chapter 8 - Organic Lawns and Gardens
Chapter 9 - The Grass Is Greener
Chapter 10 - The Organic Garden
Chapter 11 - Piling It On

Part 4 - Naturally Beautiful

Chapter 12 - Saving Your Skin (and Your Scalp)

Chapter 13 - Safer Beauty and Personal Products

Chapter 14 - Whip It Up: Make Your Own Chemi-Free Beauty Products

Part 5 - Organic Fashion and Interiors

Chapter 15 - The Fabrics of Our Lives
Chapter 16 - Home Is Where the Health Is
Chapter 17 - Organic Furniture
Chapter18 - Housework Made Healthy
Chapter19 - Clean It Green!
Appendix A - Glossary
Appendix B - Resources for Living Organically
Appendix C - Further Reading
Index

Printed on recycled paper

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Introduction

Organic living. Ask five people what it means to them, and you’ll get five different answers. Chances are most of them will be variations on the theme of “natural,” but maybe not if there’s an organic chemist in the group, as the term will mean something completely different to him or her—in chemistry, organic means “carbon-based,” and there are both natural carbon-based substances and synthetic carbon-based substances.

This might seem like a digression from the subject at hand, but it really isn’t. We are carbon-based creatures, we live in a carbon-based world. Just about every substance in us and around us is mostly composed of carbon atoms. So, by definition, you’re already living organically because, well, we all do.

Concerns about what we carbon-based critters were doing to the carbon-based world around us are what drove the beginnings of what has come to be called the “organic movement” over a century ago, and they continue to drive what the organic movement is today. While there’s no end to the amount of hype surrounding the word organic today, and seemingly no end to how the word itself is used—organic investing, anybody?—at the heart is a basic concern for the health of our planet.

We’ve created an extraordinary world, there’s no question about that, but many would argue we’ve done so at great expense. While human innovation has made it possible to live longer and significantly more comfortably than our ancestors did, we live today with dangers they did not. In us and around us are synthetic substances that were not a part of the world even 200 years ago. When they were created, little or no thought was given to health and safety considerations for these substances, or to their impact on the environment; such issues simply weren’t a concern back then. But they definitely came to be so over the years, and they are especially so now.

Organic living, as it’s come to be defined today, is a response to these concerns. When you choose to live organically, you’re choosing to avoid heavily processed, pesticide-exposed substances and materials in what you eat, in what you put on your skin, and in what you surround yourself with. In so doing, you’re also making choices that can have a positive impact on your immediate surroundings, and on the world.

Something as simple as growing your own tomatoes and doing it without artificial chemicals might not seem like much, but here are just a few takes on what the broad view looks like … Plucking a tomato from a vine at home eliminates a trip to the grocery store and a carbon deposit. Using a natural fertilizer eliminates the possibility of groundwater contamination from synthetic chemicals. It’s one less tomato that a farm worker in China might have had to douse with synthetic herbicides. And the tomato you grew yourself is almost guaranteed to taste better than anything you could find in a grocery store. Plus, there’s the simple pleasure of enjoying something you nurtured from a seed.

This, in a nutshell, is what organic living is all about. You might not be a gardener, but there are plenty of other ways to live organically, and you’ll find the tools to help you make that decision in the pages that follow.

You’ll start with learning the basics—the history of the organic movement, the core concepts and beliefs that have shaped it and continue to do so—and then you’ll make it yours. No matter how you tackle it—by eating organic food, avoiding chemicals when you clean, choosing natural fertilizer over the artificial stuff, knitting with organic yarn—by choosing all of the above, some of the above, or walking on paths you alone define, you’ll be working toward creating an existence that resonates with who you are and what you want to be. And at the same time, you’ll create a healthier future for you, your family, and the planet.

You’ll be living organically. And that’s a good thing.

What’s in This Book

Do an Internet search with the words “organic living” and you’ll get millions of hits. That’s just one indication of the endless information that’s out there. One goal of this book—better put, the key goal of this book—is to help you sort through it all and figure out what makes sense to you and for you.

In Part 1, “The Best Things in Life Are Organic,” we look at the history and heritage of organics and the benefits of living organically.

In Part 2, “Mmm, Mmm, Organic,” we deliver the goods on what organic eating is all about, from finding organic foods to preparing and storing them.

Part 3, “Going Organic from the Ground Up,” delivers the dirt on what you can do to green up your lawn and garden, from taking your grass off chemicals to growing your own organic fruit and vegetables.

In Part 4, “Naturally Beautiful,” we cover the health risks associated with the chemicals most often found in health and beauty aids and we give you alternatives to their use, including products you can make yourself.

In Part 5, “Organic Fashion and Interiors,” you’ll learn how to make your home and your clothing as eco-friendly as possible.

Extras

You’ll find even more information on living the organic life in these sidebars:

The Dirt

Essential tips for greening up your life, plate by plate, product by product, and one organic baby step at a time.

It’s Organic

Information, insights, and comments on the organic life.

Take Action

Ready to share what you’ve learned? This section features actions you can take to speed the growth of the organic movement and spread the organic way of life, in your local communities and beyond.

Toxic

The inside scoop on how to sidestep common pitfalls, read between the labels, and make the healthiest choices for you and your family.

def•i•ni•tion

Definitions and explanations for terms and expressions to familiarize you with the wide world of living organically.

Acknowledgments

Special thanks to Sustainable Table (www.sustainabletable.org), a consumer program founded to celebrate the sustainable food movement, for allowing us to reprint organic recipes from their online database.

Additional thanks also go to Leslie Bilderback for her role as the recipe editor on this book.

Special Thanks to the Technical Reviewer

The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Organic Living was reviewed by an expert who double-checked the accuracy of what you’ll learn here, to help us ensure this book gives you everything you need to know about living organically. Special thanks are extended to Jolia Sidona Allen.

Trademarks

All terms mentioned in this book that are known to be or are suspected of being trademarks or service marks have been appropriately capitalized. Alpha Books and Penguin Group (USA) Inc. cannot attest to the accuracy of this information. Use of a term in this book should not be regarded as affecting the validity of any trademark or service mark.

Part 1

The Best Things in Life Are Organic

You see the word everywhere, but what exactly does it mean? For the truest flavor, the best price, and the healthiest body and planet, here’s why organic is the natural choice. The benefits of choosing organic are many. Congratulations on deciding to take a leap in healthy living—for yourself, your family, your community, and the earth!

Chapter 1

What Is Organic Living?

In This Chapter

• Organic history 101

• The rise of synthetic substances

• Causes for concern

• Where we are now

If you’re like many people—maybe even most people—your mind probably immediately turns to food when you hear the word organic. That’s understandable, and probably even to be expected, as organic food—that is, food produced without the use of synthetic fertilizers or pesticides—is what the majority of us are most familiar with.

While organics began with agriculture and food production, organic food is just one element of what organic living is all about today.

In this chapter, we’ll explore the history of organics as we work toward an understanding—not a definition, although that’s certainly part of the journey—of what living organically means.

Organic Roots

Pure. Natural. Chemical-free. Back to basics. These are just a few of the words and terms associated with the word organic. Clearly, organic has come to mean more than just its dictionary definition.

Today, living organically is a choice we can make. For our ancestors, there were no such choices. They lived organically because … well, that’s how life was lived. The word synthetic? While it dates back to the late 1600s, unless you were a chemist you not only didn’t know what it meant, you had no reason for knowing.

How did we get from living organically by nature to living organically by choice? The short answer: human innovation and invention.

Life on the Farm

Up to around the turn of the twentieth century, the food people ate was pure, wholesome, and natural because everything was during that time. Food was produced organically not by choice but by necessity, as there weren’t any options. This meant that farmers were organic farmers not because they decided to be, but because they had to be.

def•i•ni•tion

Crop rotation is the practice of growing different crops in the same space in succession to balance and rejuvenate the soil’s fertility and nutrition levels, and to offset the buildup of pests and diseases that can occur when the same crop is repeatedly grown.

They used good old-fashioned manual labor—themselves and draft animals—to work the land, and they used ancient techniques like crop rotation to keep the soil nutrient-rich and erosion-free because that’s what everyone did.

Fallowing, or allowing fields to rest between plantings, was also a key practice in traditional farming. Farmers routinely left anywhere from one third to one half of their land unplanted, or fallow, at any given time. Natural fertilizers, such as manure, bone meal, fish meal, dried blood, and seaweed, were used to boost nutrient levels, as was green manuring—planting crops like clover or alfalfa, and then plowing them under.

The thought that soil might need more than these approaches to keep it healthy dates to the mid-1500s, when Frenchman Bernard Palissy suggested the minerals—he called them vegetable salts—that plants took from the earth should be put back in some way. While others maintained that traditional approaches were more than adequate, the idea of using fertilizers to replace specific soil nutrients—potassium, phosphorous, nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, and so on—had been born.

The Dirt

Allowing fields to lie fallow dates back to the earliest of times. Shemittah, or the Jewish sabbatical year, a commandment to let the land of Israel lay fallow every seventh year so it could rest and rejuvenate, is described in several places in the Bible. The Romans also believed in renewing the land and routinely practiced fallowing, crop rotation, and manuring to keep soil healthy.

But it wasn’t until the Industrial Revolution came along that fertilizers really began to take shape.

No Rest for the Land

During the Industrial Revolution two major innovations—motorized machinery and chemical fertilizers—would change the face of agriculture forever. Steam-driven machines not only expanded agricultural trade channels, they made it possible to work far greater expanses of land and to work it far more intensely than ever before. Both were good things as far as the world’s growing population was concerned. Not so good for the land, though.

To keep up with demand, farmers couldn’t let their fields rest. Nor could they plant crops that fed the soil instead of the people. As demands on the land grew, traditional practices like crop rotation and fallowing began falling by the wayside. Eventually both practices almost disappeared, and so too did spreading animal manure as fertilizer.

As demand and production continued to intensify, fields were planted and harvested more often and more nutrients were removed from the soil. Fewer nutrients means lower yields and less nutritious food. The answer to both problems? Dousing the land with substances that contained the nutrients it most lacked—nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorous.

Some of the necessary substances were abundant and available. Potassium came from potassium chloride mines in Germany. Phosphate rocks or slag, a byproduct of steel manufacturing, were used to supply phosphorous, one of the key ingredients in plant nutrition. However, a chemical substitution for nitrogen, the most essential ingredient for plant health, proved far more elusive.

Why? Here’s where things get technical. Bear with us …

Even though the earth’s atmosphere is more than three-quarters nitrogen (about 78 percent, to be more exact; oxygen comprises the majority of the rest), it’s in a form that can’t be used. To convert nitrogen into a usable substance, one that plants can more easily assimilate, it has to be turned into another substance—specifically, ammonia.

To do this, nitrogen molecules must be split apart and joined to hydrogen. The process for doing so is called fixation, or “fixing” an element. In nature, fixation occurs naturally in one of two ways. Soil bacteria called rhizobia, which infect the roots of legumes and then take up residence there, perform the majority of it (this is why planting legumes and plowing them under does so much for plant health). Interestingly enough, lightning strikes can also produce fixed nitrogen. In 1909, a German chemist named Fritz Haber figured out how to take the place of soil bacteria and lightning strikes and fix nitrogen in a laboratory. He combined nitrogen gas with hydrogen gas and a catalyst at a high temperature and pressure. This created ammonia, the chemical precursor of nitrogen (in laymen’s terms, this means the substance from which nitrogen-based products like fertilizer could be made).

Haber’s discovery is noted by many as the most important invention of the twentieth century for this reason: without synthetic nitrogen, the amount of food the world could produce was finite. With synthetic nitrogen—and even better, a solid, dependable source of synthetic nitrogen—it was infinite. And, of course, more crops meant more people.

The Dirt

The Haber-Bosch process (named after Fritz Haber and Carl Bosch, who helped refine and commercialize it) is an energy hog. It uses fossil fuels as its hydrogen source, and its high temperatures and pressures account for an estimated 1 to 2 percent of the world’s total energy consumption.

By the time of Haber’s discovery, population growth was in danger of outpacing agricultural production. The process he invented helped stop a population crisis that was seemingly just around the corner. In fact, it’s estimated that two of every five humans living today wouldn’t be here if Haber hadn’t squished a couple of gases together and heated them up.

Others quickly found that Haber’s process could be used to make other substances, some of which you’ll read about later on. The German chemist had provided the key to a whole new arena of scientific development.

(As a side note, Haber received the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1918 for “improving the standards of agriculture and the well-being of mankind.” However, his accomplishments after the development of the process were, shall we say, questionable. On the plus side, he developed masks that could absorb the lethal gases that were used in World War I. On the minus side, he also developed the poisonous gases the masks were designed to stop.)

Voices of Concern

It didn’t take long for some concerns to be raised about the new agricultural technologies and substances. Less than half a century after the development of the first synthetic fertilizers (and pesticides, which followed soon after), a few individuals took a critical look at what agriculture was becoming and began voicing some serious concerns over how the land was being used and what was happening to it as a result. The interesting thing about all of them is that they didn’t only voice their concerns, they wrote about them, too. Their actions and their writings were what began the organic movement.

Among the early visionaries were Rudolf Steiner, whose writings in the 1920s were the basis for the concept of biodynamics, which set forth many of the key elements of modern organic farming.

def•i•ni•tion

Biodynamics focuses on the relationships between living things and the forces around them. It emphasizes farms as self-contained and self-sufficient eco-systems, sustained without outside assistance as much as possible.

The Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association describes biodynamics, or biodynamic agriculture, as “a way of living, working and relating to nature … based on good, common-sense practices, a consciousness of the uniqueness of each landscape, and the inner development of each and every practitioner.” (While developed specifically for agriculture, this description’s not a bad one for organic living in general, either.)

In the late 1930s and early 1940s, others began to echo Steiner’s concerns. Other key voices in the early years of organics included:

• Lord Walter Northbourne. We owe the term “organic farming” to Northbourne, who first used it to describe his concept of “farm as organism” in his book Look to the Land, published in 1940. In it, he discusses chemical farming versus “organic farming,” and describes a holistic, ecologically balanced approach to farming as “having a complex but necessary interrelationship of parts, similar to that in living things.”

• Sir Albert Howard. Having trained as a botanist, Howard was dispatched to India as an agricultural advisor early in his career, but ended up embracing the traditional farming practices he saw there instead. When he returned to England, he wrote several books that both described his experiences in India and brought forth concepts based on them, including composting. His 1943 book An Agricultural Testament is considered by many the seminal work on organic farming, and Howard is widely credited as the founder and pioneer of the organic movement.

• Lady Eve Balfour. Also known as Evelyn Barbara Balfour, Lady Eve was one of the first women to study agriculture at an English university. She began farming in 1920 and in 1939 launched the Haughley Experiment, which was the first long-term, side-by-side, scientific comparison of organic and chemical-based farming. In 1943, she published The Living Soil and the Haughley Experiment, which described her experiences and observations. In 1946, she co-founded and became the first president of the Soil Association, an international organization that promotes sustainable agriculture and the main organic farming association in the UK.

• Jerome (J. I.) Rodale. Albert Howard might be the father of the organic movement, but in the United States Jerome Rodale has been a far more visible—and influential—shaper of things organic. Rodale was a businessman and publisher when he came across Howard’s books and was so moved by them—he likened Howard’s vision of organics to being hit by a ton of bricks—that he bought a farm so he could experiment with organic farming techniques. He began publishing Organic Farming and Gardening magazine (now known as Organic Gardening), in 1942 with none other than Howard serving as associate editor. Over the years he also wrote books on the subject and launched a number of initiatives that both spread the word on organic farming and popularized the concept.

While there definitely were some people who read, listened, and agreed with the philosophies and beliefs of these individuals, theirs was decidedly the minority view. For almost 40 years, organic farming didn’t just take a backseat to conventional agriculture, it was left in the garage. Joseph Heckman, writing for The Weston A. Price Foundation for Wise Traditions in Food, Farming, and the Healing Arts, describes this period as “the era of polarization of agriculture into organic and non-organic camps,” and notes that there was little effective dialogue between the organic community and conventional agriculture.

Every so often a voice from the organic farming community would surface, but it was rare. Synthetic chemicals were seen as the cure-all, the wonder invention—and the fact that the federal government put its strength behind them only gave them more clout.

A Big Step Backward

Pure and natural living took a huge step backward during and just after World War II. It happened on two key fronts. One was the federal government’s support of research and development related to petroleum-based products, which had burgeoned during the war due to the demand for synthetic rubber (butane and butane gases, both petroleum derivatives, are the basis for butadiene, a basic component of synthetic rubber).

The other initiative was driven by the federal government as well, but for a different reason. When World War II ended, there was a large amount of ammonium nitrate, a key ingredient in explosives, sitting unused in munitions facilities. Nitrate—or nitrogen (if you’ve made the connection here, you’re absolutely right)—could be used as fertilizer, and that’s exactly what the government did with it.

Factories that had previously turned out ingredients for bombs were now repurposed as fertilizer plants. Other factories were scrambling to turn petroleum into petrochemicals and petrochemical-based products. Developments on both fronts were made possible by none other than—you guessed it—Fritz Haber‘s invention, which proved to be as useful for creating these substances as it was for creating fertilizer.

Down on the farm (most farms, anyway, though there were still some holdouts who preferred doing things the old-fashioned way), synthetic pesticides and herbicides made farming easier, more productive, and less expensive.

def•i•ni•tion

Petrochemicals are chemical compounds made from petroleum or other carbon-based materials.

Products containing synthetic ingredients were revolutionizing the way people lived, on the farms and everywhere else. Clothes that didn’t wrinkle and resisted stains? No longer the stuff of science fiction. Lipsticks and rouge with staying power on the face and in the container? Now possible, thanks to the development of new dyes, preservatives, and stabilizers, all petroleum based.

In fact, there seemed to be no end of substances and products that could be synthesized from petroleum—degreasers, dry cleaning solvents, even synthetic hormones. By the early 1960s, there was no question of the role the chemical industry was now playing in modern life. A Life magazine article from that period was almost giddy over it:

“In its forward rush, the $9 billion-a-year chemical industry has transformed American life. It has scrubbed the modern world with detergents, doctored it with synthetic drugs, dressed it in synthetic textiles, cushioned it with synthetic rubber and adorned it from head to toe with gaudy plastics. It has penetrated industry as deeply as daily life. With its flood of discoveries, it has injected new life into some industries like textiles, which it has reconstructed with synthetics and strengthened with new chemicals that make natural textiles water-resistant, better wearing, better looking. It has absorbed whole industries, like paint and varnish, and has spawned entirely new ones like plastics fabricating and synthetic rubber …”

def•i•ni•tion

Phosphates are substances often used to boost the cleaning power in detergents. In large amounts they can destroy the health of lakes, streams, and other bodies of water as they can make algae grow faster than it normally would.

The article goes on to describe how just one plant was able to provide enough styrene (used to make plastics and resins and recognized by International Agency for Research on Cancer as a potential human carcinogen) to meet a third of the country’s needs at the time, and to describe the “fire and smoke” process used to turn phosphorus ore into phosphates.

No doubt about it, this was an era that embodied the famous slogan “Better Living Through Chemistry.” If you didn’t agree with the philosophy, you were definitely in the minority.

The Dark Side

There was, of course, a decided dark side to these advances. Billions of tons of synthetic substances were not only being created, they were being released into the world at an alarming rate. How might such substances affect people and the environment? Few gave it much thought. As Stacy Malkin put it in Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry:

“Then, as now, most chemicals were designed for function and efficiency, not health and safety. There was no cause-effect consciousness. A chemist might work to create a cheap polymer dye that was the perfect shade of crimson red, for instance, but he wasn’t also making sure the dye was non-toxic, biodegradable, and safe for children’s health. Nobody was asking these questions. The government didn’t require companies to ask these questions. Universities didn’t require chemists to understand the biological and environmental impacts of the products they were creating. The majority of industrial chemicals were allowed onto the market with no safety testing to determine their health impacts.”

But the goings-on clearly did alarm some. Rodale’s Organic Gardening magazine (farming had been dropped from the title at some point) was still alive and it was gaining in circulation. going from 260,000 in 1960 to 1.3 million in 1980. Joseph Heckman notes that “Agricultural colleges and experiment stations … were increasingly besieged with letters of inquiry from the public and it became impossible to ignore the organic movement.”

In 1962, the publication of Rachel Carson‘s Silent Spring took things up a notch—well, actually, up a big notch. Carson chronicled the effects of dichloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane, a.k.a. DDT (first synthesized in a lab in the 1870s, first used as a pesticide during World War II, and afterwards used widely to control agricultural pests), and other chemicals on the environment. Carson challenged the wisdom of freely releasing them into the environment without questioning how they might affect ecology or human health. Her vivid description of a world without birds—this was the “silent spring”—touched a chord for many, and those many eventually organized to launch the modern environmental movement.

It’s Organic

The publication of Silent Spring is seen by many as one of the signature events—if not the signature event—in the birth of the environmental movement. The huge public outcry that it ignited eventually led to a widespread ban of DDT in 1972.

Back to Basics

By the 1970s, enough people had heeded Carson‘s warnings and added their own voices of concern to fuel a renewed interest in what was then typically called “natural living” or “back to basics” or “back to the land.” The hippie era was largely over, but the ideas and philosophies that had shaped a large portion of it—a growing mistrust of the government (fueled by anti-Vietnam War sentiments) and the establishment chief among them—carried forward to create a new way of living that many began to embrace. In reality, it was anything but new. In fact, it dated back many decades.

The Dirt

The term “tree hugger” came from India’s Chipko (“to stick,” in Hindi) movement of the 1970s and ’80s, the members of which worked to save the country’s forests from destruction by literally hugging trees.

def•i•ni•tion

The philosophy of sustainability, or sustainable agriculture, incorporates three main goals: stewardship of the land, profitability of the farm, and prosperity of farming communities.

Inherent to the environmental movement is a concern for the land. In their calls for greater attention to and sense of responsibility for the world around us, the “tree huggers,” the “fruit loops,” and the “granola nuts” were largely echoing the same concerns raised by the founders of the organic movement some 30 years earlier.

Issues like sustainability—a key concern of organic living today—were among many that came to the forefront as part of the growing interest in land conservation and protection. Environmentalists argued it wasn’t enough to produce clean, natural food; it had to be done as a sustainable component of the bigger picture. Taking care of the land was just one part of the puzzle; farms and the people who ran them had to be taken care of—sustained—as well.

Then, much as it does now, the movement revolved around food. In the midst of an energy crisis (sound familiar?) environmentalists emphasized buying local—another rallying cry of today’s organic living movement. If you didn’t grow your own (how much more local could you get?), the next best approach was to buy from someone you knew and trusted, someone of whom you could ask questions and maybe even view their operations. The direct connection of person to land, lost for many decades, was beginning to reappear. “Know your farmer, know your food” wasn’t just a catchy slogan, it was a working philosophy.

Families got busy building cold frames and raised beds. College students joined together to create community gardens where they could grow their own food using only natural fertilizers and pesticides (and only if really needed). People talked about soil microbes and brown and green compost, and they compared notes on their experiences with natural fertilizers and their battles with bugs.

Food wasn’t necessarily referred to as organic, but the methods used to grow it were. When you said you had an organic garden, people knew you were growing things naturally, without the use of synthetic chemicals.

The emphasis on natural and healthy didn’t stop there. Many members of the movement eschewed synthetic fibers and sought out clothing made of natural fibers, much of it coming from family farms or places like India and Pakistan, where cotton was plentiful and organic had never gone out of style. Petroleum-based cosmetics and fragrances also went out the door. If you could make it yourself, and make it natural, why would you want to do anything but? And if you couldn’t make it yourself, you simply went without.

Similar interest was building around the world, and especially so when it came to organic food and farming. In 1972, organic growers in Europe came together to found the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM) in Versailles, France, to promote information sharing on the principles and practices of organic agriculture.

In the United States, farmers and consumers began lobbying for government standards for organically produced foods, to protect both the farmers who produced them and the consumers who bought them. Their efforts first resulted in a number of private and state-run certifying organizations, and the end result was the Organic Foods Protection Act (OFPA) of 1990, which mandated the creation of the National Organic Program and the passage of uniform organic standards. (For a more detailed discussion on this legislation and other standards that are in place to protect consumers, turn to Chapter 6.)

Where We Are Now

We began this chapter by stating that organic food is just a part of what organic living means. But in many respects the purchase of organic food is, in itself, the embodiment of what organic living is all about. It speaks to the underlying philosophy that started the organic movement—the importance of living, working, and relating to nature, and the importance of nourishing and replenishing the world around us as we take from it. When you buy organic food, you’re making a commitment to your own health, and, in turn, to the health of the planet. You’re validating the efforts of the farmer who grew the food and his or her commitment to the health of the earth as well.

We also started this chapter by stating that living organically is a choice you make. In the next chapter, you’ll learn more about how that choice affects the world around you.

The Least You Need to Know

• While organics began with agriculture and food production, organic food is just one element of the organic spectrum and what organic living is all about today.

• Up until about 100 years ago, the food people ate was pure and wholesome and natural, because everything was.

• Two major innovations—the development of motorized machinery and the development of chemical fertilizers and pesticides—changed the face of agriculture forever.

• Concerns over the eroding health of the land and the expanding use of synthetic chemicals to grow food led to the first calls for getting back to basics in food production.

Chapter 2

Toward an Organic Planet

In This Chapter

• Disaster drill

• Thinking globally and locally

• Chemical burdens

• Big versus small

It’s no secret that the world we live in has its share of problems—well, probably more than its share. We’ve taken more from it than we’ve given to it, and we’ve made some bad decisions—some really bad decisions—along the way. Some of these decisions were innocent, we truly knew no better. Others have been, and continue to be, anything but.

Can we reverse the damage? Can you reverse the damage? While we’ll never return to anything approximating Eden, there’s definitely a lot we can do. Living organically is a big part of the answer. It might even be “the answer.”

Where we are now is far from a pretty picture, as you’ll see in this chapter. But the good news is this: with the exception of the contribution to carbon emissions that you might make if you choose an organic product that had to travel thousands of miles to get to you, every time you choose organic over conventional you’re doing your part to reduce the world’s toxic load, to keep even more chemicals out of the air, water, and soil, and to protect the environment and the plants and animals that live in it. And these are all very good things.

Avoiding Disaster

In their book Building the Green Economy: Success Stories from the Grass Roots, authors Kevin Danaher, Shannon Biggs, and Jason Mark offer this solution to the environmental challenges ahead:

“The days of a globalized, industrial economy based on ceaseless resource extraction are numbered. More people every day are realizing that the eco-systems on which we depend are collapsing. If we want to avoid ecological disaster—and the social catastrophes that will come with it—we must create a way of living that is more deeply connected to nature.”

If this isn’t a call for living organically—and a good definition of what living organically is—well, we don’t know what is.

As you read in Chapter 1, organics began with a concern for the earth, for the environment, for what we were doing with it and to it, and these concerns continue to be very much at the heart of the organic movement today. When you embrace organics, you’re taking up the challenge—the call, perhaps—to be wise and to make good choices.

The choices you make might not seem to have much to do with things like gas prices and the overall state of our planet, but the reality is they do. Every action has its consequences. When you live organically, you can literally see the effects of these consequences, both personally and on the world around you.

Discussing “the world” and its issues as a whole can be a lot to get your head around. So let’s break things down a little and take a closer look at the various problems that could be solved by living organically.

Fighting Global Warming

We thought we’d start off with one of the hottest topics out there—literally and figuratively. Sure, there are still some naysayers who believe global warming and greenhouse emissions are a lot of hoopla, but their voices are all but drowned out by the evidence that continues to stack against them. There’s no question that non-renewable energy sources are waning. Couple this with the dangerous effects of greenhouse gas emissions, and you can’t argue the logic behind greening up our energy use.

The good news here is that organic agriculture already uses less fossil fuel and has a better carbon footprint overall compared to conventional agricultural practices. One 15-year study found that organic farming uses 50 percent less energy than conventional methods.

Converting all of the cropland in the United States to organic is probably a Utopian ideal more than anything else, especially since the amount of cropland under organic management is currently hovering at less than 1 percent—an estimated 0.4 percent, to be exact (1.7 million acres of a total 435 million acres of available cropland).

This figure, interestingly enough, reflects more than double the acreage of land under organic management since 1997. Other countries are definitely besting us on this one. The governments of Belgium, the Netherlands, and Wales have set a goal to make 10 percent of arable land organic by 2010. Germany has set an even more aggressive goal of 20 percent.

The Dirt

According to the Rodale Institute, if all of America’s cropland was converted to organic practices, it would be the equivalent of taking 217 million cars off the road—nearly 88 percent of all cars in the United States today and more than a third of all automobiles in the world.

The Consumer’s Role

The role you as a consumer play in this is paramount. Your job is to buy organic products; doing so drives demand and production and, hopefully, drives the incentive for putting more land under organic practices. This, the theory goes, will lower the fossil fuels used in production.

But there’s another point to take into consideration: growing demand for organics also results in greater levels of nonrenewable energy used to ship organically grown products (we’re talking mostly food here) around the world.

So, while buying organics can lessen the dependence on fossil fuels on the one hand, it can drive their use up on the other hand. Choosing organic over conventional is just one part of the equation. Where that food actually comes from is the other part.

This introduces the concept of “food miles”—the idea that you should think about the distance your food travels to get to you before you buy it.

Local vs. Global

Spend some time reading up on the organic food industry and you won’t miss the controversy over local versus global. There is an undeniable irony in buying an organic strawberry that required less fossil fuel to produce but was then shipped halfway around the world to get to you.

What’s a consumer to do? There is no clear-cut answer as there are many aspects to this issue, a few of which we’ll discuss later in this chapter. For now, we’ll boil it down this way: buying locally grown is arguably the best choice, and not just from the global warming perspective.

Reducing the World’s Toxic Load

Talking about global warming leads pretty naturally into our next subject: the world’s toxic load. We’ll start this part of our discussion with some numbers, courtesy of an EPA report on the environment:

• There are more than 76,000 chemicals currently or recently used in the United States. Of these, around 10,000 of them, excluding inorganic polymers, microorganisms, naturally occurring substances, and non-isolated intermediaries, are produced or imported in quantities greater than 10,000 pounds per year.

• From 1990 to 1998, annual production and import volumes of these chemicals increased by 570 billion pounds, or 9.3 percent, to 6.7 trillion pounds.

• In 2000, total toxic releases totaled 7 billion pounds. Of them, toxins released to the land accounted for 58 percent, to the air 27 percent, and 4 percent went to the water. The remaining 11 percent were disposed of by underground injection at the generating facility and disposed of offsite to land or underground injection. (In the interest of fairness here, the EPA also notes that toxic releases decreased overall by about 5.5 percent between 1998 and 2000.)

What are these chemicals? They range from fertilizers and pesticides for croplands to petroleum-based substances that form the sum and substance of the majority of the products in commercial production today. According to the American Chemistry Council, over 96 percent of all manufactured goods are directly touched by chemistry, with the following products topping the production list for May 2008:

• Bulk petrochemicals

• Organic intermediates (products used to facilitate other chemical reactions)

• Plastic resins

• Man-made fibers

• Inorganic chemicals

Where are all of these chemicals going? Into the world around us. Onto the food and into the products we use (we’ll talk about their effects on us in Chapter 3).

The Dirt

According to the American Chemistry Council, more than $500 billion of chemistry products flow through the economy each year.

It’s important to remember that not every chemical is a bad guy. And in small amounts, even the ones that are bad guys might not be huge causes for concern (although current research supports the fact that as they accumulate they certainly can be).

But our dependency on chemicals continues to go up, not down—the production of synthetic chemicals has increased 350 times since World War II—and as it does, it all adds up to an amazingly heavy burden on our environment, wreaking havoc in every conceivable part of it.

Toxic Edens

With only 0.4 percent of crop and pasture land under organic management in the United States, it’s clear that agricultural chemical use on the remaining 99.6 percent of agricultural land is a big contributor to the world’s toxic load. But the world’s chemical burden does not arise on the farms or in the factories alone. What we do on the home front—particularly in the green spaces that surround our home fronts—contributes largely to that toxic soup as well.

We’ve created amazingly beautiful lawns where weeds don’t dare to take root. We can grow large, luscious fruits and vegetables and flowers with blooms so big they’ll knock your eyes out. But the fruits of our labors have come at a great cost.

It’s a sad irony that our efforts to create our own little Edens have contributed so greatly to crippling the health of our environment, and especially so in the post-World War II years, as we’ve become more and more dependent on synthetic, petroleum-based substances to create our fields of green and our gardens of bounty.

The Dirt

According to a 2004 national survey, only 5 million homeowners considered themselves to be organic gardeners—meaning they use only organic lawn practices and products. Another 35 million reported using both toxic and non-toxic materials.

The biggest culprits are the chemicals we use to keep weeds and other pests under control and the chemicals we use to make plants and their yield big and luscious. Also contributing to the problem are many of the devices we use on and around our yards. All in all, in our efforts to create luscious landscapes we’ve done more harm than good.

According to the EPA’s most recent figures on lawn care issues (from 2004), home and garden pesticides, including products for weed and insect control, are in regular use in 78 million U.S. households. The majority of these products are herbicides, with more than 90 million pounds of weed-killing substances being applied to lawns and gardens every year.

Because we individual homeowners are far from experts at applying them, we use more pesticides per acre, on average, than commercial farmers use on their land. And because we also tend to use too much water on our yards, an increasing amount of these pesticides is entering our ecosystems. Beyond Pesticides, a Washington, D.C.-based nonprofit that focuses on pesticide problems, reports that 17 of the 30 most commonly used lawn pesticides are regularly detected in groundwater and that 23 of the 30 have the potential for leaching into water systems.

2,4-D, a common ingredient in many weed-and-feed and other lawn care products, is the herbicide from lawns most frequently detected in streams and shallow groundwater. But it’s not just found in water outdoors; it invades our homes as well. It drifts in and we track it in. Once inside, it contaminates indoor air, dust, surfaces, carpets … you name it.

Our desire for deep green lawns and big beautiful flowers has also led to chemical overuse. Synthetic chemical fertilizers have become the food of choice for both lawns and gardens for a number of reasons—they’re less expensive; they work faster than organic fertilizers because they’re water soluble, which means they don’t have to break down to be available to plants; and they’re easy to find.

Water solubility can be a good thing—if you apply too much fertilizer you can limit the damage from it by watering it down thoroughly. But it’s mostly a bad thing. If you apply more of it than the plants can use, the extra product can wash out of the root zone and into water systems, where it can both pollute and cause algae blooms that lessen water’s oxygen levels and, in turn, endanger aquatic life.

For lawns, overfertilizing is a particularly important issue as it disrupts grass’s natural growing patterns. Lawns need to be fed, there’s no denying this, but we tend to apply too much fertilizer because we like our grass very lush and very green. Lushness is good, too, as it chokes out weeds, but it comes at a cost. Overfertilized grass grows faster, which means it has to be mowed more often. It also uses more water, which means having to water it more frequently.

In addition to being a waste of an already precious natural resource, more watering means the potential for more fertilizer entering already-fragile ecosystems. More mowing means more emissions into the air.

Bad Air

Toxic air pollutants are a recognized health hazard, both to humans and to the environment. They include chemicals like …

• Benzene, found in gasoline, which is a recognized carcinogen as well as being a developmental and reproductive toxicant.

• Perchlorethylene, emitted from some dry cleaning facilities, a recognized carcinogen as well as a suspected toxicant to the liver, kidneys, and respiratory and other systems.

• Methylene chloride, used as a solvent and paint stripper by a number of industries.

def•i•ni•tion

Toxic air pollutants, also known as hazardous air pollutants, are pollutants either known or suspected to cause cancer or other serious health effects.

Other chemicals identified as air toxins by the EPA include dioxin, toluene, and mercury.

These chemicals are not only a concern in the air, they also pose toxicity concerns in the soil and the water, both for us and for animals. When pollutants like mercury land on the soil and the water, plants take them up. Animals eat the plants … and the problem travels right up through the food chain. And, of course, like humans, animals can experience health problems if they suck in enough toxins from the air over a long enough period of time.

The EPA has identified 188 pollutants as being of the most concern. The following 10 toxic chemicals are the ones that are released in the largest quantity according to Scorecard, the Pollution Information Site:

• Hydrochloric acid (599 million pounds). The EPA identifies hydrochloric acid as a suspected gastrointestinal or liver toxicant, immunotoxicant, musculoskeletal toxicant, respiratory toxicant, and skin or sense organ toxicant.

• Zinc compounds (485 million pounds). Identified by the California EPA as a suspected immune and respiratory tract toxicant.

• Arsenic (401 million pounds). Recognized by several agencies as a suspected carcinogen and toxic to the heart, blood, gastrointestinal system, liver, and nervous system, and ranked as one of the most hazardous compounds to ecosystems and human health.

• Lead compounds (388 million pounds). Lead is a recognized carcinogen, developmental toxicant, and reproductive toxicant, and is suspected of being a cardiovascular or blood toxicant, gastrointestinal or liver toxicant, immunotoxicant, kidney toxicant, and neurotoxicant.

• Copper compounds (317 million pounds). Suspected kidney and respiratory toxicant.

• Nitrate compounds (262 million pounds). Suspected cardiovascular or blood toxicant.

• Manganese compounds (210 million pounds). Suspected neurotoxicant, reproductive toxicant, and respiratory toxicant.

• Barium compounds (174 million pounds). Suspected skin or sense organ toxicant.

• Methanol (166 million pounds). Suspected developmental, gastrointestinal or liver, kidney, neurological, respiratory, and skin or sense organ toxicant.

• Ammonia (152 million pounds). Suspected gastrointestinal, neurological, reproductive, respiratory, and skin or sense organ toxicant.

Scorecard is an excellent website for learning more about pollution issues. Go to www.scorecard.org, enter your zip code, and you can see the pollution problems where you live; or search for information on the top polluters in the United States, where the worst pollution is, and more. You can also search for information on specific chemicals and why they’re of concern.

Bad Water

Pollutants in groundwater and pesticides in drinking water are the problems we hear and read the most about. According to the Environmental Working Group, in some cities the pesticides in tap water have been measured at unsafe levels for weeks at a time. As the EPA notes, progress has been made to reduce the pollution in the nation’s waters, but issues still remain.

Another rising concern is dead zones. Oceanographers first began noticing them in the 1970s, and they’ve grown significantly since then. The chief culprit? Synthetic fertilizers.

def•i•ni•tion

Dead zones are low oxygen areas in the world’s oceans and other large bodies of water.

In the Gulf of Mexico, a huge area—an estimated 8,500 square miles in 2002—annually fills with algae and phytoplankton blooms fed by synthetic fertilizer runoff from the Mississippi River. As the tiny plants go through their lifecycle, they rob the water of life-giving oxygen and marine life literally suffocates to death.

The same thing happens in the Long Island Sound, where the Connecticut Fund for the Environment estimates that some 8,500 tons of excess nitrogen enter the water. The source? Lawns and crops that have been overfertilized.

In 2004, the Global Environment Outlook Year Book reported 146 dead zones in the world’s waters, where oxygen levels were so low that they either endangered wildlife or couldn’t support it at all. Some were as small as a square kilometer (about a third of a square mile); the largest was 70,000 square kilometers (about 27 square miles).

Currently, the rising demand for ethanol means that American farmers are growing more corn than at any time since World War II. Who’s paying the price? The sea life in the Gulf of Mexico, for starters.

The Dirt

Dead zones are reversible. Interestingly enough, the one in the Black Sea, previously the largest dead zone in the world, largely disappeared between 1991 and 2001 after fertilizers became too costly to use following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the economic downturn that followed.

Bad Soil

As previously noted, chemicals can drift into the soil and affect soil quality. But conventional farming practices and home lawn and gardening practices also take their toll.

Both mono-cropping—growing the same crop on the same land year after year—and conventional fertilizer use sap the health and amount of topsoil, with an estimated 75 billion tons of topsoil lost every year at a cost of $400 billion. Both practices also result in fewer micronutrients and minerals in the soil, resulting in fewer of these substances being present in the products that come from them.

As discussed in Chapter 1, farming organically calls for practicing crop rotation and crop diversity, (which helps improve soil structure and microorganism activity and helps keep the soil in place) and for feeding the soil with nutrient-rich organic matter instead of synthetic products. As soil health is improved, so too is the health of the food grown in it. Which, of course, does great things for the animals and the people who eat the food.

Bolstering Economic Diversity

Had enough of the doom and gloom? This next point is a walk to the lighter side … kind of. When you buy organic, you support the organic industry as a whole—that’s a given. However, it might not do much for the little guys, the traditional growers and producers who were the backbone of the organic movement when it started.

There are today some 10,000 certified organic producers in the United States, as well as many other producers who are farming organically but are not “certified organic,” for various reasons. However, the organic food industry is increasingly being dominated by a few big names. You’ll see headlines decrying “corporate control and consolidation of organics” and debating “industrial versus pastoral” and “classic organic versus industrial organic.” These arguments reach farther beyond what we can discuss here, but they do circle us back to the local versus global argument, underscoring the reasons why buying locally makes good sense.

When you do buy locally, you are helping to support the little guy, and that’s a good thing. Keep on buying organic and that less than one half of one percent of farmland currently under organic management will grow.

The Birds and the Bees

If you were to visit a family farm practicing organic agriculture, you might notice a big difference from industrial farms—something approaching the world like it used to be. Instead of fields stripped of anything other than what they’re expected to yield, you’d see wild plants and a good number of them—according to one report, organic farms have five times as many wild plants in their growing fields and 57 percent more species. You’d also see and hear more birds. There would be more insects above and below the ground.

It’s been said that organic farming is the equivalent of reforestation. Support organic farming, and you help to ensure the diversity of the world’s species.

The Least You Need to Know

• It’s no secret that the world we live in has its share of problems. Living organically can help reverse them.

• The choices you make might not seem to have much to do with things like gas prices and the overall state of our planet, but they do.

• Every time you choose organic over conventional, you’re doing your part to reduce the world’s toxic load and to keep even more chemicals out of the air, water, and soil.

• Keep on buying organic and the less than one half of one percent of farmland currently under organic management will grow.

Chapter 3

What Living Organically Does for You

In This Chapter

• Headaches and bad tastes

• Chemicals of concern

• Disrupted hormones

• Body burdens

The signs are often subtle. It could be a funny taste in your mouth after you use your favorite sunscreen. Or maybe it’s the headache that developed when you spent the afternoon at Aunt Martha’s, breathing in her scented air freshener the entire time.

Simply a funny taste for no reason? Simply a headache that just happened to come on? Or signs of something else? Given the chemical-laden world we live in today, it definitely could be the latter. According to the National Academy of Sciences, approximately 15 percent of the American population suffers from chemical sensitivity. Researchers say the synthetic chemicals in consumer products and furnishings are largely to blame.

We are, indeed, a product of the world around us, and the chemicals that have given the world a bad taste in its mouth and a whopper of a headache are doing the very same things to us. The good news is this: start living organically and you can stop them both in their tracks, or at the very least whittle them down to manageable levels.

Issues of Concern

Headaches, funny tastes, respiratory problems, even cancer. They’re all issues of concern that are part and parcel of how we live today. We’re barraged by substances that were created without much concern for what their consequences might be. And as it turns out, we’ve paid a pretty good price for that oversight.

For example:

• Studies show that the incidence of cancer has increased nearly 50 percent since World War II.

• Experts have estimated that about half of all men and 38 percent of all women in the United States will be diagnosed with some form of cancer.

• More than 60,000 people die every year from pollution caused by power plants.

• An estimated 6.3 million children suffer from asthma, up from about 3.1 million 20 years ago.

As Stacy Malkin wrote in Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry:

“We may be living longer, but we’re living sicker. Chronic diseases and disabilities now affect more than one third of the US population, according to the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Scientific studies have increasingly demonstrated that toxic chemicals are contributing to childhood cancer, hormone-related cancers, asthma, learning disabilities, birth defects, infertility and other health problems that have been increasing in recent decades.”

Why is this happening? The consensus view is too many toxic chemicals in our environment. We’ve made some strides in cleaning up the world around us—the water, the ground, and the air—since calls for doing so began surfacing in the 1960s, but we still have a long way to go. Plus, we’re continually adding new chemicals to the mix, and in ever-growing amounts. We also know more about the negative effects of some of them and something about what happens when various substances build up and interact in different ways.

The Big Buildup

People today confront many dangers our ancestors did not, including an amazing number of chemical substances that weren’t even in existence even 100 years ago.

According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), there are some 80,000 or so different chemicals being manufactured today; fewer than 10 percent of them have ever been tested for safety. As the EWG states:

“The nation’s only toxic chemical regulation law, the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA) is over 30 years old and doesn’t do much to make sure that chemicals are safe. Instead of chemical companies having to prove that chemicals are safe before they can be used, consumers have to show evidence that a chemical is harmful after it’s already done the damage.”

Lots of the stuff that’s entered into our lives is anything but pretty. Here’s a rundown on just a few of the chemical substances of concern that you’re likely to come into contact with on a daily basis:

• Perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs). You might remember a few years back when the EPA called for a ban on a chemical called PFOA (short for perfluorooctanoic acid), used to make the non-stick coating Teflon and other grease- and stain-resistant coatings. Eight major manufacturers agreed to phase out its use, but not until 2015, so it still persists. PFOA is an extremely long-lived chemical—studies show that it never breaks down in the environment and that it has polluted almost everything on earth. It’s associated with cell death and immune system weakness in animal studies; it’s also been linked to liver damage, thyroid damage, and elevated cholesterol levels. Unfortunately, the compounds that have been developed to replace PFOA don’t appear to be much safer, if at all. While the manufacturers of these products claim that they are, such claims have been identified as greenwashing.

• Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Along with its close cousin sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), SLS is a common ingredient in almost every product that foams—both are very good at doing so and are widely used for this property. Shampoo, detergent, even toothpaste can contain it. On its own it can cause eye and skin irritation. It can also become contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, which the EPA has identified as a probable carcinogen. SLS and SLES have also been identified as a possible gastrointestinal or liver toxicant by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH).

• Oxybenzone. We’ve been roundly lectured to limit exposure to the sun to help prevent skin cancer, but a key ingredient in sunscreen—oxybenzone—can present its own set of hazards. This toxin, which the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) says contaminates 97 percent of Americans, has been linked to allergies, hormone disruption, and cell damage. NIOSH has identified it as a suspected gastrointestinal, liver, and kidney toxicant.

def•i•ni•tion

Greenwashing is making claims, either unsubstantiated or misleading, about the environmental benefits of a product, technology, service, or practice.

How do we end up with chemicals inside instead of outside of us? We absorb them, we breathe them in, and we eat them.

In and Through the Skin

As the largest organ of the body, our skin protects us from the elements and is the first line of defense against germs, bacteria, viruses, and other intruders that constantly try to get in. However, the skin can also absorb substances—particularly human-engineered substances that the skin hasn’t hasn’t had time to evolve a natural defense against—either through pores or through breaks in the skin—cuts, punctures, abrasions, and so on.

The Dirt

Environmental health experts say that the skin is the second most common route for chemical entry into the body. Inhalation is the most common.

Products that you come into direct contact with—either intentionally or accidentally—are obviously a key concern here. But others can be equally problematic. Substances in spray-on cleaners, for example, can land anywhere—the surface they’re intended for as well as your skin. You can wash them off your skin, of course, but unless you wipe down every other surface in your house you won’t get all of them.

Breathing In

You breathe in and out an average of 12 times per minute. When you do, you take in about a pint of air along with any contaminants it might contain—dust, fumes, smoke, you name it.

Also of concern here are substances called volatile organic compounds (VOCs). These are chemical compounds that give off gases into the air that your lungs can easily absorb.

VOCs are present in large numbers in items like cleaning products and paint. But they can be emitted as gases whenever chemicals in various materials break down—furniture and fabric, for example, both contain substances that also contain VOCs. In enclosed areas—offices, homes—they are large contributors to indoor air pollution. They’re also a huge contributor to outdoor air pollution, as they combine with other airborne substances to create ozone.

def•i•ni•tion

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are organic chemical compounds in gas form that products emit into the air.

The Dirt

We live our lives indoors more than out—according to the EPA, approximately 90 percent of time is spent inside—but interior spaces are far from pollution-free safety zones. In fact, again according to the EPA, pollutant levels indoors can be anywhere from two to more than 1,000 times higher than outdoors (levels on the high end are typically caused by activities like stripping paint indoors). According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, more than 150 chemicals found in the average home have been linked to allergies, birth defects, cancer, and psychological problems.

Eating Up

Chemicals can enter the digestive system in several ways. In adults, the two main pathways are swallowing contaminated mucus and eating and drinking contaminated food. Children and pets can take up toxins from contaminated surfaces, such as floors and toys. Pets can also take them up by licking their paws and their fur.

Cumulative Effects

The body can filter out many of these substances, and does so naturally through its filtration systems—the kidneys, the liver, the skin, etc. But some toxins leave very slowly. And others not at all. PFOAs can be found in the body 10 years after exposure, according to the EWG. DDT can stay in the body for as long as 50 years.

def•i•ni•tion

Body burden is the total amount of harmful substances present in one’s body at a specific point in time.

The Dirt

The tests conducted by the Environmental Working Group on the umbilical cord blood of 10 babies born in August and September of 2004 found an average of 200 industrial chemicals and pollutants in their blood.

We now know that certain toxins build up in the body over time, and that their effects are cumulative. Scientists have even come up with a term for it—body burden.

Studies have found that people today can have hundreds of synthetic chemicals in their bodies. Six studies conducted by the EWG found an amazing 455 different substances—pesticides, industrial pollutants, and other chemicals—in blood, urine, and breast milk taken from 72 people, ranging from newborns to grandparents.

The EPA estimates the average American carries more than 700 contaminants in his or her system. These substances are typically ingested in low doses and they’re present in minute amounts—grams and milligrams—but there’s growing evidence that even low doses of toxins ingested over time can and have caused problems.

Not One, But Many

Because this body of research is still relatively new, we don’t know much about how ongoing exposure in small amounts actually affects people over time. But what we do know points toward taking a cautious approach with substances that have either been identified as harmful or are suspected of being so. As the EWG put it in a discussion of limiting exposure to pesticides on the food we eat:

“There is growing consensus in the scientific community that small doses of pesticides and other chemicals can adversely affect people, especially during vulnerable periods of fetal development and childhood when exposures can have long lasting effects. Because the toxic effects of pesticides are worrisome, not well understood, or in some cases completely unstudied, shoppers are wise to minimize exposure to pesticides whenever possible.”

The issue here is not product safety per se, as most consumer products are tested to some extent before they’re released to the marketplace (although, as previously noted, they can and often do contain substances for which safety has not been tested). However, since they’re tested individually there’s no way to tell what might happen when products are combined. And since no one uses just one product—experts say that 10 is the average number of body care and personal care products used every day—there’s a chance the substances that exist in one or more of these products at a level deemed safe during testing can accumulate to an unsafe level.

It’s Organic

According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), it would take 162,000 new tests to test 100 chemicals in combinations of three for just one health concern.

What’s more, even chemicals deemed safe can turn into substances that are decidedly not. One that’s been widely reported is triclosan, an antimicrobial agent that appears in tons of different products—antibacterial soap, toothpaste, deodorant, even fabrics and plastics.

Triclosan has some concerns on its own—it’s been linked to a number of health issues, including skin irritation and antibiotic resistance. However, when it’s exposed to ultraviolet light it can also turn into a form of dioxin, which has long been identified as a pollutant harmful to the environment and to human health.

Researchers at the University of California-Davis have found that triclosan interferes with a type of cell signaling in the brain, heart, and other cells. The researchers also investigated triclocarban—an antibacterial agent similar to triclosan—and found that it disrupts reproductive hormone activity.

The Dirt

Manufacturers are adding triclosan to more and more products—computer keyboards, mouse pads, cutting boards, paint, flooring, even the crisper drawers in refrigerators—and we’re spending about one billion dollars a year on products containing it, according to UC Davis researchers, who also recommended that manufacturers consider adding cautionary labels to products containing these substances. Triclosan’s trade name is Microban when it’s incorporated into things like plastics and fibers; look for this name on packaging if you want to avoid adding more triclosan to your life.

Monitoring Toxicity Levels

We now know more about what’s going on with toxicity levels thanks to a specific type of research called biomonitoring.

The CDC has been conducting biomonitoring tests for over 30 years to determine which environmental chemicals people have been exposed to, how much of these chemicals actually get into their bodies, and the chemical concentrations in the body that are related to health risks. Until fairly recently, biomonitoring was primarily limited to occupational and clinical testing, but the government is expanding its use beyond these settings to learn more about our exposure to natural and synthetic chemicals in everyday life.

def•i•ni•tion

Biomonitoring is a scientific method for sampling body fluids and tissues to determine exposure to natural and synthetic chemicals.

It’s important to keep biomonitoring in perspective. It only provides information on exposure levels, and only at the time the tests are done. In itself, it can’t determine the risk these levels might have. But it can be combined with toxicity data to calculate risk. However, as previously stated, we know very little about the toxicity of most of the chemicals in use. There’s still much to be learned, and biomonitoring will play a key role in the process.

Toxic

There are no readily available, trustworthy biomonitoring tests accessible to the public. Even if you were able to be tested or could test yourself, the information wouldn’t be useful because these findings are all so new. Scientists and doctors do not have advice for how to treat yourself or detoxify yourself of the chemicals you’d find in those test results.

For now, about the only thing you can do is assume you’re contaminated—everyone is in some way—and do what you can to reduce the body burden by learning about the most common toxins and limiting your exposure to them.

Health Concerns

It’s long been known that certain chemicals can do nasty things to the body, ranging from skin and eye irritation to organ toxicity to cancer. And many chemicals can have more than one adverse health effect.

Scorecard, the pollution information site maintained by Green Media Toolshed (and previously by Environmental Defense), lists these 12 health issues:

• Cancer

• Developmental Toxicity

• Reproductive Toxicity

• Cardiovascular or Blood Toxicity

• Endocrine Toxicity

• Gastrointestinal or Liver Toxicity

• Immunotoxicity

• Kidney Toxicity

• Musculoskeletal Toxicity

• Neurotoxicity

• Respiratory Toxicity

• Skin or Sense Organ Toxicity

Go to the website at www.scorecard.org and you can see the chemicals of most concern for each health concern as well.

The health issues highlighted by Scorecard aren’t the only ones worth our close attention. Additional areas of particularly growing concern are hormone disruption and chemical exposure in children.

Hormone Disruption

The belief that the hormone system might be more sensitive to toxic exposure than the nervous system has fueled a number of investigations into the effects of synthetic chemicals on hormone function. Studies have shown that certain synthetic chemicals can interfere with how hormones work in the body. These hormone disruptors can bind to the same sites as the body’s natural hormones, disturbing natural hormone function in various ways.

def•i•ni•tion

Hormone disruptors are synthetic chemicals that can mimic, interfere with, and block normal hormone activity.

Synthetic chemicals often interfere with Estrogen and testosterone, potentially contributing to reproductive problems such as breast cancer, endometriosis and others. In men, testosterone-mimicking chemicals can diminish sperm count and contribute to prostate and testicular cancer. Other health issues on the rise, including diabetes, thyroid disorders, and learning and behavioral problems in children, are also believed to be linked to hormone-disrupting substances.

Big Concerns for Little Ones

Chemical exposure is an issue of special concern for children, as hormone research and other studies suggest that early childhood exposure can cause both a higher incidence of cancer and/or increase sensitivity to cancer-causing agents later in life. What’s more, it also looks like exposure in the womb might do the most lifelong damage.

Children are at greater risk for a number of reasons. Pound for pound, they simply absorb more chemicals than adults. They also come into contact with a wide variety of chemicals more frequently. Kids crawl on the floor. They stick their hands in their mouths. They chew on toys that have been on the ground. Pound for pound, because their metabolisms are faster, they eat more food and drink more water than adults do, exposing them to more harmful substances. Their skin is thinner (skin doesn’t reach full thickness until age 20 or so), making it both more susceptible to damage and more absorbent. And because their systems are still developing, they aren’t as well equipped to detoxify and eliminate substances from their body, which means that they’re also at greater risk of accumulating more chemicals as they age.

The Dirt

A 1998 report by the EWG found that 9 out of 10 American children between the ages of six months and five years are exposed to 13 different neurotoxic insecticides—substances that can cause long-term brain and nervous system damage—in the foods they eat. EWG also released a study in 2007 stating that children are exposed to 60 chemicals daily, on average, through the personal care products applied to them. Of these chemicals, 27 have never been assessed for safety.

Going Forward

Research about the dangerous chemicals in the world around us continues to pile up, to the extent that you have to wonder if anything’s safe anymore. The controversies over the following are good examples of why it’s important to pay attention, and they underscore the importance of making wise, informed choices about the way we live and the products we use.

Genetically Modified Food

Genetic modification of food springs from a technology developed in the 1970s that allows scientists to take genes from one species and combine them with the DNA of another to create something completely new. The result? Genetically modified organisms (GMOs).

Bacteria were the first organisms to be genetically modified. Researchers then tried their hand at animals and plants. It’s in the third category where the majority of genetic engineering efforts have been centered, with scientists focusing on ways to modify plants—in particular, soybean, corn, rapeseed (the plant that canola oil is derived from), and cotton, the leading genetically modified crops grown today—so they could better withstand challenges like herbicides, pests, and harsh environmental conditions. Other genetic engineering experiments focused on creating food that would last longer on the shelf and have higher nutritional value.

def•i•ni•tion

Genetically modified organisms (GMOs) are organisms created by combining the genes from one species with the genes from another.

Originally heralded as the next best thing in food science, GMOs were quickly linked to a number of problems in cows that were injected with rbGH, a genetically engineered hormone designed to improve milk production. Laboratory tests on genetically engineered tomatoes caused stomach lesions in lab rats.

The federal government has stated that genetically modified foods are no different from their natural counterparts and they are generally recognized as safe by the FDA. But many would disagree with this position, arguing that there’s not enough data to support that GMOs are safe for human consumption.

According to Andrew Kimbrell, founder and executive director of Washington, DC-BASED Center for Food Safety and the author of Your Right to Know: Genetic Engineering and the Secret Changes in Your Food, genetically engineered crops can cause serious allergies, increase resistance to antibiotics, and depress the immune system.

It’s been just over a decade since the first genetically engineered crops were planted. Today, they far outpace non-GMO crops. In 2008, 92 percent of soybeans planted in the United States were genetically engineered to resist herbicides. Cotton came in at 68 percent; corn at 63 percent. In Canada, where canola production is big, nearly 90 percent of canola fields contain genetically modified plants.

Genetically engineered ingredients can now be found in more than 75 percent of processed foods available in the United States. While more than 50 countries require genetically engineered foods to be labeled as such, the United States isn’t one of them. But given their prevalence, it’s a good bet you’re eating them if you’re buying food products that contain soybean, canola, or corn. It’s estimated that over 70 percent of foods in grocery stores in the United States and Canada contain genetically engineered ingredients.

Bisphenol A

Bisphenol A, or BPA, is a synthetic chemical that’s widely used in making things like polyester fibers and plastics. If you buy canned food, chances are good that BPA is in the lining of those cans, as it’s added to them to protect against E. coli and botulism. It’s also used to make polycarbonate baby bottles and hard plastic water bottles. Check the bottoms of the plastic bottles you have around the house. If they’re marked as #7, they probably contain BPA, but not necessarily, as not every #7 plastic does—the ones that are hard, see-through, and unbreakable most likely do.

The Dirt

According to the CDC, BPA can be found in 92 percent of Americans age six and older.

BPA is a hormone disruptor that has been linked in animal studies to a number of problems and diseases. Health concerns about it date back to the 1930s; however, the FDA and the plastics industry both state that low doses of BPA pose no risks. Nevertheless, there’s a growing body of evidence that indicates BPA is cause for concern.

In 2007, a group of 38 scientists issued a joint statement that even very low doses of BPA can profoundly affect lab animals during pregnancy and infancy and that BPA can permanently rewire genetic programming before birth. In April 2008, the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services’ National Toxicology Program issued a brief noting its concern that low levels of BPA cause changes in behavior and the brain, prostate gland, mammary glands, and the age at which girls enter puberty.

It’s Organic

Canada has banned BPA in baby bottles, and Nalgene, one of the best-known manufacturers of reusable plastic bottles, is phasing out BPA. Many retailers have stopped carrying products that contain it. If you have bottles that contain BPA, know that the greatest concern is with bottles that are old or heated, as they’re most likely to leach BPA. Tossing these containers is the best bet; if you keep using them, don’t put hot beverages in them, use them in the microwave, leave them in the sun for long periods of time, or put them in the dishwasher.

1,4-Dioxane

In March 2008, the Organic Consumers Association (OCA) released a report that recapped the results of tests done on more than 100 personal care products that are either labeled as being natural or organic products or are marketed in such a way that they’re perceived as being so. Trace amounts of a petroleum-based solvent known as 1,4-dioxane were found in 46 of the products—not as an ingredient, but as a contaminant, a byproduct of the manufacturing process.

A number of health concerns have been linked to 1,4-Dioxane, including kidney toxicity, respiratory toxicity, and neurotoxicity. The EPA classifies it as a probable human carcinogen. The state of California also considers it a carcinogen and has filed a lawsuit against some of the companies named in the OCA’s report, charging that the companies should have put warning labels on products containing high levels of 1,4-Dioxane stating that they might cause cancer. For a full list of products named in the OCA report, visit www.organicconsumers.org.

Take Action

The best long-term solution to toxic chemical concerns is more and better regulation of both the chemicals that are currently in use as well as those yet to be developed. You can do something about this by voicing your concerns to your elected officials.

The Least You Need to Know

• The same chemicals that have given the world a bad taste in its mouth and a whopper of a headache are doing a similar number on us.

• The skin is the second most common route for chemical entry into the body. Inhalation is the most common.

• The air inside our homes and offices can be substantially worse for our health than the air outside.

• Hormone disruption and chemical exposure in children are two areas of growing concern when it comes to synthetic chemicals and their effects.

Chapter 4

Living the Organic Life

In This Chapter

• Gearing up to go organic

• Picking a starting point

• Organics on a budget

• Family matters

The saying “Rome wasn’t built in a day” definitely holds true when embracing organics as part of your life. For most people, going organic is a process, rarely a “flip the switch” or a “one day you aren’t, the next day you are” situation. Instead, it’s something you evolve into, as you learn more about it, as the pieces click into place, and as small actions become bigger and broader.

What’s more, there’s definitely a lot to learn about the organic life. This isn’t to say the knowledge won’t come naturally—after all, we’re talking about returning to the basic sensibilities we were all born with. But the farther removed you are from these sensibilities, the harder it can be to wend your way back. It’s not impossible—it’s never impossible—but change can take time. Even planning for change can take time.

While writing this book, we were amazed at the flood of information we needed to synthesize. At times, it was almost mind-numbing. If we were amazed, and sometimes overwhelmed, it’s a pretty good bet you might feel the same way.

The best way we could figure to keep from overwhelming you is to share some tips from the front line—from our experiences and from the experiences of others who are living life organically—about what we’re doing and how we got there.

If you’re looking for a way to get started, this chapter will give you the basics for beginning your organic life journey.

Read Up

It’s always smart to be an informed consumer, especially when it comes to a hot topic like organics. With both interest and products booming at an unprecedented rate, as well as continued misdirection and confusion over the definition of the term, “organic” can be a bit of a moving target. This book is a great start to understanding the big picture, of course, but there are plenty of other good resources out there—so many, in fact, that if you were to try to keep up with all of them, you’d experience information overload.

The following list contains what we feel are the top “must-visit” websites for general information on the organic industry, the same sites we relied on during the creation of this book. They’re not necessarily sites you need to go to every day, but you’ll be guaranteed to find news and information you can use every time you visit.

• Organic Consumers Association (OCA) (www.organicconsumers.org). Home base for the organic community, representing the views and interests of its more than 850,000 members, subscribers, and volunteers, as well as “the nation’s estimated 50 million organic and socially responsible consumers.” There’s lots of news and information at this site—in fact, it’s noted as the place to go for the latest news and campaigns in the organic world. You’ll find breaking news in the center of the homepage as well as news archives, forums, and information on the OCA’s various campaigns. It was established in 1998 to take up concerns over national organic legislation, and it hasn’t stopped tackling the tough issues since. Also available: Organic Bytes, OCA’s e-mail newsletter.

• Environmental Working Group (EWG) (www.ewg.org). EWG is all about using “the power of public information to protect public health and the environment.” The organization both lobbies and conducts research on key environmental and health concerns; it’s also a valuable source for information on what you should and shouldn’t buy at the grocery store and the cosmetics counter, thanks to its research and data collection on food and cosmetics.

• Green Guide (www.greenguide.com). This site started as a print newspaper in 1994, became a website in 2002, and was acquired by National Geographic in 2007 as part of the company’s “global commitment for today’s conscious consumer.” Not just organics here, but good coverage of organic issues as well as lots of helpful shopping guides in areas ranging from blankets and sheets to meat and tea.

• Treehugger (www.treehugger.com). Part blogs, part articles, part buying guides, all sustainable. The focus is more about going green and eco-friendliness than organic living, but organics obviously play a role, too. Looking for an eco-friendly computer or browser? Chances are you’ll see ads for them here, too.

• Grist (www.grist.com). You’ll find environmental news, commentary, and some humor at this lively site. As the Gristians themselves put it, “we believe that news about green issues and sustainable living doesn’t have to be predictable, demoralizing, or dull. We butter the vegetables! And add salt! And strain metaphors!” Check in often for news and analysis, columns, and blogs for serious news coverage with an edge.

• Lime (www.lime.com). Billed as “healthy living with a twist,” this site addresses organic living as part of its commitment to healthy living and greening up the planet. You’ll see more of an emphasis on natural health, living in balance, and personal development here, thanks to parent company Gaiam, a long-time leader in these areas.

These sites are just the tip of the iceberg, though, and if you find yourself needing more information, you’ll find a more extensive list in Appendix B.

Choose a Point of Entry

A good way to manage the amount of information processing ahead of you is to pick a place to start. What facet of the organic spectrum are you most concerned about? Is it the food you eat and prepare for your family? The cosmetics and personal care products you use?

Maybe you’re getting ready to build a new house or renovate the one you currently own, and you want to make the healthiest and most eco-friendly choices for the materials, furniture, and fixtures you’re going to use. Maybe you’re pregnant or thinking about getting pregnant and you want to give your child the best possible start to a healthy life that you can.

Spend some time thinking about what’s most important to you, and start your information gathering—and your journey—there.

If you’re like most people, organic food will probably be where you begin, but it truly can be anywhere. As you incorporate organic practices in this area, you’ll build your knowledge and reach a comfort level. You’ll find your efforts in this area will quite naturally take you into others. As you clean up one part of your life, you’ll want to extend that cleanness and goodness into others as well.

The Dirt

Always remember there’s no race to be the “most organic.” You’ll probably meet some people, especially in the beginning, who will either try to get you to accelerate the process or who will chide you for not going fast enough. Take what they have to say for what it’s worth and do what’s right for you. If your transition to organic living means using up all your household cleaners with toxic ingredients, don’t let anyone tell you you’re not “doing things right” because you made this choice.

Dollars and Sense

Picking a point of entry leads pretty naturally into this topic, as money might factor into your decision of where and how to go organic.

As this book went to press, the price for a barrel of oil was at a historic high and the prices of consumer goods were ratcheting upward to unprecedented levels as well. It’s impossible to predict what the future holds, but it is safe to say that our petroleum-based world isn’t going to change anytime soon. Since oil prices impact just about every facet of modern living, it’s a good bet prices in other segments of the marketplace aren’t going to go down either.

What’s interesting about all of this is that even in the face of skyrocketing prices for food and other consumer goods, demand for organics has continued to rise. Consumers have voted their preferences for better food, cleaner cosmetics, and healthier furnishings with their wallets, even though organic products typically do cost more than their conventional counterparts.

That said, if you haven’t done a lot of shopping in the organics arena up to now, the prices you see for some things might stun you. No matter where you are on the money ladder, it might be difficult to justify buying, say, a bottle of natural, eco-friendly dish detergent that costs six times more than the product you know is full of ingredients you don’t want to use. Or organic grapes that are a dollar more per pound than their chemically-tainted cousins. Die-hard greenies may tell you that the higher costs are reflective of savings in the long run—savings for the health of your family, or the price future generations will have to pay for the environmental damage of conventional farming. Fair enough. But if you’re on a tight budget and price makes a difference, it can be hard to justify the organic or more natural product even if you know it’s the better choice.

The Dirt

According to the Chicago Tribune, organic produce can cost anywhere from 25 to 100 percent more than non-organic.

Organic food and consumer products that have been produced in a cleaner, more environmentally friendly manner take a bad rap on a fairly regular basis for being more expensive. On this point alone, that bad rap is typically pretty justified, as yes, these products can be and often are more expensive. But there are ways to offset the costs so that your overall expenses in going organic won’t be much more than what you’re paying now, and possibly even a little less.

Here’s how:

• Buy direct from the farm. Farmers’ Markets and Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) arrangements are typically less expensive than organic markets like Whole Foods or the organic section of your local grocery store. You’re guaranteed the freshest flavors of the season, and as an added bonus, farmers have the best recipe tips!

• Buy store brands. Supermarkets and large discounters like Wal-Mart and Costco have realized good success in offering their own organic products. Private-label offerings are expanding and they’re cheaper than name brands.

• Clip coupons. You might not see many coupons for organic products in the weekly food section of the newspaper, but you’ll definitely see them in other places. Look for them in health and fitness magazines and in lifestyle magazines. You’ll have more luck online—there’s even a website for organic coupons: www.organiccoupons.org. Grocery Coupon Guide (www.grocerycouponguide.com) recommends going directly to company websites and will even direct you there; search the site for a blog post on “Organic & Natural Food Coupons,” which includes links to a long list of them. A few to start with: Organic Valley (www.organicvalley.com), Stonyfield (www.stonyfield.com), Seventh Generation (www.seventhgeneration.com), Eden Organic (www.edenfoods.com), and Knudsen juices (www.knudsenjuices.com).

• Make your own. Processed organic food products can be substantially more expensive than their conventional equivalents, and processed foods overall are always more expensive than the sum of their individual parts. Instead of buying granola cereal, make your own. Want to make sure your baby’s food is the freshest and healthiest it can be? When you make it yourself you can ensure the quality of the ingredients and the processing.

• Cook at home using organic foods. You can turn almost any recipe into an organic recipe just by using organic ingredients. Chapter 7 has recipes to try if you need some inspiration.

• Buy in bulk. Buying in large quantities is always cheaper than buying smaller, prepared portions.

• Learn your labels. It’s easy to get a little confused over the terminology and lingo in the organic world, especially when you’re first starting out. When you’re watching your pennies, don’t buy something that’s labeled “natural” when you’re looking for “organic.”

• Learn what to buy organic, and what to not buy organic. There are certain organic foods and food products that are worth spending the money on and some that you can skip and save money. Turn to Chapters 5 and 6 for the do’s and don’ts.

• Start your own co-op. Want to buy a side of organic beef or pork but don’t have the storage room and worry you won’t get through it fast enough? Join up with like-minded individuals and share the expense—and the goodness.

• Grow your own. Even the smallest balcony can usually support a pot or two. Fill those pots with a tomato plant and maybe a pepper plant and you’ve got the beginning of an organic garden. Herbs grow well indoors on a sunny windowsill.

• Make your own cleaning products. The ingredients that go into natural cleaning products—baking soda, vinegar, borax, washing soda—are as cheap as can be. The cost of making products from them is about one tenth that of their commercial equivalents. Add up what you spend every month on cleaning products—you might be surprised at how much money you can save here.

• Get your lawn off drugs. What you spend on synthetic fertilizers and herbicides is just part of the story here. Lawns that are maintained with synthetic chemicals need more water. Want to cut down on your watering bill? Ditch the petrochemicals and go the natural route.

Finally, don’t be a slave to the word “organic.” Yes, a label that says something is organic can be a sign of the purity and goodness of that product. But there are plenty of good, wholesome choices to be made that don’t include the word.

For example, if you’re taking your dog organic, buying him a tin of certified organic dog biscuits might seem the thing to do, especially since you can point to the organic label and know for sure the ingredients therein are indeed healthy.

But maybe there’s a pet store in your town that sells homemade dog biscuits. And maybe the woman who bakes them uses ingredients from her own garden. And maybe she gardens organically. And maybe she doesn’t use any preservatives or fillers in her products. They’re probably pretty darned good dog cookies, fresh and natural, and most likely about half the cost of the certified organic ones.

Don’t be an organic snob. Don’t pass up good products and good food because they’re not labeled “certified organic.” As you progress further into the organic world, you’ll find out that very little of the products it contains are certified organic, and for some good reasons.

Get Your Family Involved

Change is never easy, and your family might resist it at first. Talk to them. Share what you’ve learned, the issues that concern you the most, and the decisions you think will best help address those issues.

Enlist their help and make them a part of the process as much as possible. If your significant other has a tendency to buy whatever’s cheapest at the store when it comes to cleaning supplies, don’t rake him or her over the coals when he or she comes home with the wrong product. Instead, do a little educating or take over that part of the shopping responsibilities.

Children often have problems making the switch to organic produce because it might not look or taste like what they’re used to eating. During the 2008 presidential primary season, Michelle Obama voiced the sentiment and experience shared by many mothers when she said she’d love to embrace organics more fully at home but that she found it hard to convince her children the wrinkly grapes would be as tasty as others. This can be a tough one to get around, especially with young children, but keep at it. They’ll get it soon enough, and what’s more, they’ll appreciate it when they get older.

It’s Organic

One good way for getting kids over the “organic hump” is by making the process fun. Have them help you bake some organic cookies. Make organic cheese or butter together. If they like messing around in the dirt, give them a corner of your organic garden for their very own.

Be Flexible

You might not always find what you’re looking for when you’re shopping for organic food. Learn how to adapt, and how to change up your recipes or your plans when you need to.

Also be flexible about shopping organic in general. It really is okay to buy something that’s not organic on occasion. Put things in perspective; if you’re making your family’s favorite strawberry shortcake and the only strawberries available aren’t organic, using fresh or frozen non-organic berries one night probably won’t have that much of an effect on your life—or your family’s life—as a whole.

Be Prepared for the Unexpected

The more you live organically, the more you might find your tolerance for things you once handled well might change. Visiting your friends in their newly built home might not be as easy, now that you’re living in a cleaner environment with cleaning products and interiors that aren’t giving off nasty gases like the old ones did. Walking down the household cleaner aisle at the supermarket might give you a royal headache.

But be prepared for the good side of unexpected, too. A cleaner, fresher home without toxic chemicals. Lower pesticide levels inside and around you. Less chances of chemical-driven health concerns in your children. It’s all possible when you choose to live organically.

The Least You Need to Know

• The saying “Rome wasn’t built in a day” definitely holds true when embracing organics as part of your life.

• Picking a starting place is a good way to manage the amount of information you’ll uncover when you ramp up to live organically.

• Making your family a part of the process every step of the way can help them overcome any hurdles they might face in embracing organic living.

• The more you live organically, the more you might find your tolerance for things you once handled well has changed.

Part 2

Mmm, Mmm, Organic

Organic food is one sure way to guarantee the food you’re eating and feeding your family—pets included—is good for their health. This part delivers the goods on what organic eating is all about, from finding organic foods to preparing and storing them.

Chapter 5

Making the Move to Organic Food

In This Chapter

• Best fruit and vegetable choices

• The beef about beef

• Chickening out on chicken

• Porcine pointers

• Fishing for answers

If you’re like most people, there’s at least one organic food product already in your kitchen. It could be milk—it’s the entry-point food for many organic shoppers—it could be vegetables, it could be snacks for the kids. And if you’re like a growing number of consumers, you’re more than ready to add more. Problem is, you might not quite know how to go about it, or know how to wade through the available choices, which are steadily growing.

If you’re ready to expand your organic food consumption, this chapter is for you. You won’t create an organic kitchen overnight—it just costs too much to do it all at once and it never makes sense to toss out good food, even if it’s not as pure and healthy as it could be. Nor is a completely organic kitchen even possible, let alone necessary. Not only are there not organic choices in every food category, for some products buying organic isn’t always the best choice, or even necessary at all.

Ready to ramp up? In this chapter, we’ll give you the rundown on what’s going on in the organic world when it comes to the major food groups, and we’ll give you the information you need to decide if and when buying organic makes sense.

Fruit and Veggies

Produce has long been the cornerstone of organics, because farming is where the organic movement began. It’s also the food group in which the choices you make can have a significant health impact—produce, when grown conventionally, is some of the most chemically doctored food out there.

There are hundreds of different chemicals—numbers range from 300 to 400, in fact—that are approved for treating fruit and vegetables. We now know that many of these substances are problematic, linked to everything from cancer to birth defects.

The good news is, not only is organic produce free of applied chemicals, but studies are showing it’s innately more nutritious, and often more flavorful, too!

The Dirt

A 1997 article published in E: The Environmental Magazine stated that of the 300 or so pesticides approved for use on food by the federal government, 73 have been identified as probable or possible carcinogens.

On any given day, the choices you make in this category could expose you to anywhere from 2 to 14 pesticides. But by eating a variety of fruits and vegetables and making your product choices wisely, you can significantly lower your exposure to these substances. According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), avoiding the most contaminated vegetables can lower your pesticide exposure by almost 90 percent.

The “Dirty Dozen”

The EWG focuses on a number of public health and environmental issues—food health and safety among them. One of the most visible aspects of the EWG’s efforts in the food arena is its Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides in Produce, and in particular its list of the top 12 most contaminated fruits and vegetables. The group developed the list by analyzing results collected from over 50,000 tests of pesticides on produce conducted by the USDA and the FDA between 2000 and 2005.

The EWG has released several versions of the guide and the “Dirty Dozen” list, each reflecting another round of investigation and analysis. The fruits and vegetables listed here are from the most current list; they’re ranked from most to least contaminated. The EWG also assigns number scores; the numbers following each brief description are these scores.

1. Peaches. Peaches are tough to grow: insects love them as much as humans do and they find it easy to penetrate the thin skin on these juicy treats. They’re also prone to fungal and other diseases while on the tree, and are routinely sprayed with pesticides and fungicides during various stages of development. If insects can get through, so can these substances. According to the EWG, peaches had the highest likelihood of multiple pesticides on a single sample. (100)

2. Apples. Also very attractive to insect pests, apples are typically sprayed with pesticides and petroleum-based horticultural oil (another insect control; it works by smothering them) at numerous times during their growing cycle. Varieties that are susceptible to fungal diseases are sprayed for that as well. Pesticide residues are difficult to remove as they tend to pool in apples’ dips and curves. Apple stems also wick substances into their cores. (96)

3. Sweet bell peppers. The EWG found sweet bell peppers the vegetable with the most pesticides detected on a single sample, coming in at 11. European corn borers are their biggest threat, but far from the only one, which means that peppers are peppered with chemicals throughout their growing season. Thick skins offer protection from infiltration but also make it difficult to remove pesticide residue. (86)

It’s Organic

Bell peppers and other peppers on the mild side are significantly more prone to suffering corn borer infestations. Hotter peppers, not so much. The hotter the pepper, the less the threat, as the substances that produce the heat are natural insect repellents. But hot peppers still have their problems; the EWG ranks them fifteenth on their list.

4. Celery. Celery is noted as a “heavy feeder,” which means it needs a lot of food and water when growing. If toxins are present in the soil it grows in and the water it’s given … well, you get the idea. This crunchy vegetable also tested as a significant source for pesticide residue, with the highest percentage of samples testing positive for pesticides. Tests also showed that pesticides concentrate in the bottom of bunches of celery stalks, where water collects. (85)

5. Nectarines. Like pretty much all fruit crops, nectarines attract insects and are prone to fungal diseases. They’re also thin skinned, so anything used to treat them easily infiltrates their tissues. (84)

6. Strawberries. Strawberries grow low to the ground and sometimes right on it, which makes them susceptible to soil-related issues. And of course, insects love to munch on them. Growing strawberries conventionally means hitting them regularly with chemicals, including fertilizers, because the chemicals applied to strawberry fields to keep them safe from soil pathogens also kill the good things in soil that could feed them. Strawberries also absorb pesticides through their stalks. (83)

7. Cherries. Like other tree fruits, cherries regularly come under attack by various insect pests, fungi, and diseases, and are sprayed with pesticides, fungicides, and horticultural oils. Some applications begin before the growing season starts. (75)

8. Lettuce. Low-growing lettuce is prone to fungal and viral diseases caused by poor air circulation and excess moisture. Like celery, lettuce plants are heavy feeders, so pesticides in water are an issue as well. (69)

9. Grapes (imported). Grapes in general can develop mildew and fungus problems and are routinely treated for both conditions. The EWG ranks imported grapes separately (and higher) than domestic grapes because they’re also often treated with methyl bromide to guard against fruit fly infestations. (68)

10. Pears. Another thin-skinned fruit that insects love to munch on. They can be sprayed as many as nine times during the growing season for various insect pests. (65)

11. Spinach. Like lettuce, it grows close to the ground, which makes it vulnerable to insect infestations and mildew. Tests also show that spinach plants uptake pesticides through their stalks. (60)

12. Potatoes. Potatoes grow in the ground or just above it; soil-borne pathogens and ground-hugging insects are key issues here. Many potatoes are waxed before shipping, making pesticide residues difficult to remove. (58)

Given the issues associated with these products, they’re high on the list of items to start with when switching to organic food, and especially so if you and your family eat a lot of them. If you can’t buy them organic, consider substituting other types of produce that rank lower on the list (some good options are coming up next). Or even better, maybe try growing some of them yourself (turn to Chapter 10 for more on organic gardening).

The “Pretty-Clean” Thirteen

The fruit and vegetables that follow come from the EWG’s least-contaminated list. This means they consistently test low to negative for pesticide residue. There are various reasons for this; some simply don’t need chemicals to grow well because they naturally repel pests or have thick shells or skins for protection. Others have natural predators that protect them. In some cases they’re grown in parts of the world where pesticides are too expensive to use, so very little is applied.

From lowest to highest (based on EWG rankings) they are:

• Onions. Onions and other members of the onion family, most notably garlic, have substances that naturally repel many insect pests. Their skins also offer some protection against invaders. (1)

• Avocados. Their thick, tough skins make them almost impervious to pesticides, ranking them the lowest fruits on the list. (1)

• Sweet Corn (frozen). (2)

• Pineapples. (7)

• Mangoes. (9)

• Asparagus. (11)

• Sweet peas (frozen). Their pods protect them from insects. (11)

• Kiwi fruit. (14)

• Bananas. The combination of growing high above the ground and tough skin to protect them makes bananas a low-risk choice. (16)

• Cabbage. (17)

• Broccoli. Cooler growing conditions tend to protect them from insect pests. (18)

• Eggplant. (19)

• Papayas. (21)

The Dirt

Remember, low pesticide levels don’t mean the fruit or veggie is 100 percent clean. We live in a dirty world where pesticides and their residues are all around us.

For EWG’s complete list of 43 fruits and vegetables, visit www.foodnews.org. There’s also a downloadable wallet guide to take along when you’re shopping.

Meat

Pesticides aren’t the leading issue when it comes to meat, although they are still a concern as conventionally raised animals can ingest some of these chemicals, depending on what they’re fed and how they’re raised. Cattle raised for organic markets, on the other hand, must graze on land that’s pesticide-free for a minimum of three years and must be fed grain harvested from such land.

The bigger issues with conventionally raised meat are hormones and antibiotics. Some studies of hormones in food have pointed to increased risks of reproductive system cancers in women and men. The antibiotics given to cattle are often the same ones prescribed for humans; the more they’re used, the more they add to the problem of antibiotic-resistant bacteria throughout the world.

One way to avoid these concerns is to cut down on the amount of meat in your diet. The other is to seek out the best meat you can find, the meat that is most likely not to have these issues.

The Beef About Beef

Dairy and beef cattle, if not raised for the organic market, are routinely given natural hormones and synthetic growth promoters (hormone-like chemicals) to fatten them up quickly so they can reach slaughter weight faster. European Union countries and some others have banned meat imported from the United States for this reason, citing studies that have linked these substances to cancer. But in the United States, you can still buy hormone-laced meat … and you probably will, if you buy conventionally raised beef—hormones and growth promoters are still given to most of the cows raised for conventional markets. The FDA has approved six growth hormones for use in beef cattle; dairy cows are also given recombinant bovine growth hormone (rBGH), to increase milk production.

def•i•ni•tion

Recombinant bovine growth hormone (rBGH) is a genetically engineered variant of the natural growth hormone produced by cows, given to dairy cattle to increase milk production by about 10 percent.

Some feeding practices for cattle were revised since the mad cow scare not too long ago; specifically, the FDA banned feed containing cattle brain and spinal tissue in 1997 (these were the substances linked to mad cow disease). Commercially raised cattle, however, can still be given feed that contains other somewhat questionable materials, including products like gelatin, grease and tallow rendered from cattle and other species, rendered horse and pork protein, and poultry waste and byproducts.

None of this is particularly appetizing, but it’s the last category that is especially problematic because poultry manure can contain arsenic (we’ll get to this problem area in a moment).

Cattle are also routinely given antibiotics to offset problems created by their diets. Why do they need antibiotics? They’re ruminants; their digestive system includes a huge fermentation tank—the rumen—that converts the grass they would eat if allowed to graze naturally into protein and fats. They’re happy eating grass; their digestive systems work as they should. However, a grass-based diet doesn’t render fat cattle fast enough for commercial cattle growers. To fatten them up quickly, cattle in these operations are fed grain, animal byproducts, and chicken manure, which are cheap protein sources that fatten them fast but wreak havoc on their grass-based digestive systems. We won’t go into details about that havoc; suffice it to say that the cattle need regular dosing with antibiotics to settle down their stomachs. Recommendation: If you’re going to eat beef, organic beef is strongly recommended but not easy to come by, and it can be expensive. Good options here include looking for beef labeled as pastured, grass-fed, or grass-finished. All of these terms signify healthy feeding practices, no hormone or antibiotic use, and humane treatment and handling. Grass-fed beef is also a healthier choice as it is lower in overall fats and saturated fats and higher in omega-3 fatty acids.

You’ll find more detail on the certifications and labeling that apply to meat products in Chapter 6.

The Chicken or the Egg

Conventionally raised chicken is simply nasty and best to avoid at any cost. These birds typically spend less than two months on the planet, during which time they’re crammed into warehouses so tightly that they can’t even pick fights with each other and force-fed to fatten them up as fast as possible. Chickens are routinely administered antibiotics just like cattle are (hormones have been banned in chickens since 1959). Their feed can contain arsenic to control certain types of intestinal parasites, and to promote growth and improve pigmentation of the meat. (While it’s allowed in the United States, arsenic is banned in the EU and other countries as it’s a known toxin, causing cancer and hormone disruption. Many experts say there is no safe level of this chemical.)

Close to two thirds of the 9 billion broiler chickens raised commercially are routinely dosed with arsenic in their feed—that equates to 2.2 million pounds of the substance mixed in with chicken feed every year. The type of arsenic most commonly used, roxarsone, is considered to be fairly benign in the form in which it’s administered to the chickens. But it converts to the toxic form of arsenic inside the birds, and it’s excreted as such (this is one of the reasons why feeding poultry manure to cattle is a problematic issue).

The Dirt

According to the EPA, long-term exposure to arsenic can cause cancer of the bladder, lungs, skin, colon, and kidneys as well as serious immunological, neurological, and hormonal damage. Partial paralysis and diabetes can result from low level exposure.

Toxic

Don’t pay a premium for eggs with labels like “fertile” or “farm fresh.” Fertile eggs simply come from hens that cohabitate with a rooster. Farm fresh is a claim that just about any producer can make.

The good news here is that some of the largest chicken producers in the United States, including Tyson Foods, the nation’s biggest producer, have stopped using arsenic-laced feed. Expect to see more arsenic-free chicken as other producers heed the call for healthier poultry products.

Recommendation: Organic chicken, which is raised without arsenic-supplemented feed and without antibiotics. Be aware, however, that organic chicken might be raised in conditions you might not like; organic doesn’t mean free-range—these chickens can be cooped up inside just like their conventionally raised cousins since allowing them to eat freely outdoors can make them more vulnerable to picking up diseases.

Eggs from organically raised chickens are naturally organic products and are the clear choice if you want a completely organic food. If you’d rather your eggs come from hens that aren’t cooped up, look for cage-free or free-range eggs, which come from hens that have some access to the outdoors but not enough to put them at risk for diseases.

This Little Piggy

Conventional pork production subjects these animals to almost unspeakable conditions. Crowded pens crammed full of mothers and babies are just the start of a long list of horrors literally too painful to describe here. But, sadly, pigs are one of the most difficult animals to raise without chemicals—their natural eating style consists of rooting around in the ground, and this makes them highly susceptible to picking up parasites that live in the soil.

Parasites are difficult to almost impossible to control without antibiotics. As such, organic pig farming isn’t cost-effective and certified organic pork is practically non-existent. Still, since conventionally raised pork is subjected to antibiotics as other animals raised for slaughter, alternatives to it are worth seeking out if you want to keep eating “the other white meat.” It’s definitely possible to find organic pork as long as you’re not hung up on it being USDA certified. You’ll find suggestions for doing so in Chapter 6.

Dairy Products

Pesticides aren’t as much of an issue when it comes to dairy products (although definitely still of concern), but the other chemicals used on these animals sure are.

Conventionally raised dairy cows are routinely given growth hormones—rBGH and rBST—to increase milk production as much as 25 percent. Studies have shown that these hormones can be passed through to milk and affect those who drink it. Dairy products like butter and cheese are problematic because whatever chemical residues that might be present in milk are even more present in them (think of them as concentrated milk and the logic behind this really hits home). The higher the fat content in cheese, the greater the risk for chemical and pesticide residues—cows store chemical residues in their fatty tissues just like humans (and other animals) do.

The Dirt

An easy way to reduce pesticide exposure from dairy products (and boost heart health at the same time) is to watch your butter consumption; instead, substitute heart-healthy vegetable oils, like olive oil, when possible.

Organic milk is widely available these days as more and more producers are heeding the call for it—demand continues to increase steadily, since it’s one of the first products that many new organic consumers buy. Other organic dairy products are somewhat less widely available (but becoming more so), and it can also make sense to look for them.

If you don’t mind messing around in your kitchen, you can easily make things like butter and cheese from organic milk. You’ll find recipes for both in Chapter 7.

For dairy products, shopping locally and buying from the source are excellent approaches; many small dairies are organic but not certified as such. Likewise, many artisanal cheeses are made from organic milk but are not certified organic.

Fish

Talking about fish is a little like wandering into a minefield as organic certification in this arena is awash with controversy. The USDA hasn’t set organic standards for fish and seafood because most of it is harvested from the wild. Since standards are based on controls, and you can’t control Mother Nature … well, you get the picture. Fish raised in a controlled environment—fish farming—might seem the logical way to go for organic certification, but this practice is also fraught with controversy, ranging from what the fish are fed to concerns over aquaculture’s impact on the environment.

This isn’t to say that there isn’t organic fish; you will see it presented as such, as the federal government allows fish from other countries to bear organic labels. The problem here, though, is that this fish is often farm raised and might have been treated with chemicals and antibiotics as the rules in other countries aren’t always as strict and might allow the use of antibiotics or pesticides in certain situations.

If it sounds fishy to you, that’s because it is. Organic standards for fish are just not up to snuff quite yet. While you might see some fish and seafood bearing organic or natural labeling of some sort, the better approach here is to buy wild seafood—that is, if the source you’re buying from can verify where the fish came from. Remember, even wild seafood can come from polluted water. For a handy dandy guide to buying fish that is guaranteed healthy for you and for the planet, print out the Seafood Watch list on the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s website www.mbayaq.org/cr/SeafoodWatch.asp.

Chocolate

Chocolate has received a lot of press in the past few years based on its heart-healthiness, which is definitely good news for chocolate lovers. But before you keep indulging your sweet tooth in the interest of doing good things for your health, you might want to give some thought to where that chocolate came from, as most chocolate-based products contain cocoa that’s been doused with toxic chemicals.

The Dirt

According to the Pesticide Awareness Network, only cotton ranks higher than chocolate in the amount of pesticides used to grow it.

A quick rundown on what you might be ingesting when you indulge in your favorite chocolate bar includes pesticides like paraquat, methyl bromide, and lindane that have been linked to health issues including lung damage, heart failure, cancer, and hormone disruption.

Lead is another issue; the fibrous shells of cocoa beans take it up extremely well. Studies have shown lead levels in chocolate to be some of the highest found in any food. One theory behind this is that leaded gasoline is still used in some chocolate-producing countries. If you like milk chocolate, know that the milk in this product might have come from cows treated with rBGH. It’s also very likely that the soy products in chocolate (soy lecithin, which emulsifies the fats in chocolate is a common ingredient) came from bioengineered soybeans.

This is a bandwagon that few of the major candy companies have jumped on yet, but they’re starting to. Hershey’s purchased Dagoba Organic Chocolate in 2006 and Cadbury now owns Green and Black’s, another organic chocolate line.

It’s Organic

The market for organic chocolate in the United States is definitely on the rise. Sales in 2007 were $70.8 million, up 49 percent from 2006, but still a fraction of the overall $6 billion in chocolate sold that year.

Newman’s Own Organics has long been a supporter of sustainable agriculture and has offered certified organic chocolate for a long time, sourcing its organic chocolate from producers in Central and South America, and choosing producers that work without the use of forced labor.

Nuts, Seeds, and Grains

Like most food crops, many nuts and seeds are routinely sprayed with pesticides, especially if grown domestically, but not much is known about residues on nuts because they’re not routinely tested. What we do know is that if they aren’t grown in the United States they’re probably not subjected to much pesticide use, as they’re produced by small growers who typically don’t use them.

Almonds are the exception to this rule; they’re not nuts but rather the seeds of fruits, which means they don’t have hard shells to protect them while they’re growing. And like many other tree fruits, they’re magnets for pests and diseases. As such, almonds are routinely doused with highly toxic pesticides and herbicides to ward them off.

Peanuts are also problematic, as they are grown in the ground and can come under attack from organisms in the soil. Since they’re legumes, not nuts, they don’t have hard shells to protect them; instead they grow in pods that can suck up anything toxic in the soil.

Processed grains typically aren’t much of a concern when it comes to pesticide residues, because the processing they go through removes most of it. Whole grains grown conventionally present more of an issue, as the surfaces where pesticides can linger aren’t removed.

Rice, on other hand, is a concern, and especially so if it’s grown in the United States. Studies have shown pesticide levels to be 1.4 to 5 times higher in U.S. rice than in rice grown in other countries. Arsenic is the chemical most often found; researchers believe that the way in which rice is grown—in standing water—causes it to take up arsenic more than other crops do.

Recommendation: If peanut butter is a staple in your household, then organic peanut butter makes sense. Or buy organic peanuts and grind your own. Almonds are another nut that’s best to buy organic. Buy organic or imported rice—basmati rice from India and Pakistan and jasmine rice from Thailand have tested lowest for arsenic levels—or substitute other products. For other grains that you eat regularly as whole grains, buy organic.

Vegetable Oils

Most vegetable oils are heavily processed and refined, which pretty much strips them of substances that might be of concern. That said, there are organic versions of almost every vegetable oil available, if not every one, and there’s something to be said about their flavor—like other organically grown products, they seem to taste better. Plus, they’re better for the planet!

Snack and Convenience Foods

Organic versions of some of the most popular snack and convenience foods—chips, crackers, cereal—are easy to find these days. However, for many of them, the processing they go through can negate the benefits of their organic ingredients. In one study, researchers at the University of California-Davis found no difference in the nutrients between organic and conventional pasta sauces. Recommendation: Buy them organic if it makes sense to do so; e.g., if they truly make your life more convenient or your kids really love their mac and cheese and you don’t want to go with conventional products in this category. Substitute healthier, less processed foods when possible, or make your own.

Day Starters (Coffee and Tea)

Conventionally grown coffee spends its life in the sun and is doused with a bunch of pesticides. However, processing the beans does away with most of the residues. But the people who grow the beans do have to deal with those pesticides on a daily basis. If you buy organic coffee, you can help lessen their body burden—and perhaps spare your own.

Synthetic pesticides and fertilizers aren’t much of a concern when it comes to tea, as their use can affect how the leaves taste. There’s plenty of organic tea available, but this is an area in which you can probably save some money by going with conventional products. You can do a good thing for the earth and for the people who grow the tea by looking for products bearing Certified Fair Trade labels.

Another hot (drinks) tip: skip coffee filters or tea bags, and go with loose leaf tea or a reusable coffee filter instead. Coffee filters and tea bags are typically bleached white, and mostly unnecessary, as great coffee or tea can be made just as well without them. If you do use filters or bags, do your health (and the earth) a favor by choosing biodegradable unbleached ones.

Organic Wine and Beer

Organic beer is becoming such a big thing that there’s even a national festival devoted to it—the North American Organic Brewers Festival, which celebrates the “diversity and range of beer styles being brewed organically; from pilsner to pale ale, saison to stout, amber ale to iambics.”

Cascadia—Oregon, Washington, British Columbia, and Northern California—is the heartland of organic brewing and leads the continent in the number of organic breweries. In 2006, North American organic brewers made over 40,000 barrels; 2007 production levels were expected to increase by more than 25 percent. There’s a bit—well, to be honest, more than a bit—of controversy over how organic organic beer really is, since brewers are now allowed to include non-organic hops in organic beer. If you want organic beer through and through, you’ll have to look for products stating that they use organic hops.

It’s Organic

Brewing your own beer is a definite option here. There’s even a commercial website devoted to it—www.breworganic.com.

Wine, to be certified organic, must consist of all natural ingredients. Chemicals are a no-no throughout the journey from grape to bottle; they can’t be used at any stage of the process, period. Wine designated as “made with organic grapes” must also contain all organic ingredients, but the processing standards aren’t as strict.

Organic wine also can’t contain added sulfites, although this doesn’t mean they’re sulfite-free because some may exist naturally in the grapes used to make the wine. Wine with the designation “made with organic grapes” can contain added sulfites.

Biodynamic wine is sometimes referred to as “beyond organic,” as the processes involved in the certification process are even more stringent than organic certification. Biodynamic wine is also a favorite among wine aficionados. Many vintners, including such well-known producers as Frey Vineyards, Frog’s Leap, Heller Estate, and Badger Mountain Vineyards, are making organic wines. The wine guide at The Green Guide (www.thegreenguide.com/products/Food_&_Drink/Wine) has a good list of companies to look for.

The Least You Need to Know

• Organic choices are available in most major food categories, and more are being added all the time as demand for them continues to rise.

• Produce is the area in which the product choices you make can have a significant impact on your health.

• Hormones and antibiotics fed to animals are major concerns when it comes to meat.

• Only cotton ranks higher than conventional chocolate in the amount of pesticides used to grow it.

• Wine, beer, tea, and coffee are all available organic.

Chapter 6

Shopping Organic

In This Chapter

• Shopping wisely

• Sources for sourcing

• Deciphering organic labels

• Other labels to know about

Making the commitment to buying organic food is easy enough—you’ll get better nutrition, better flavor, and less exposure to toxic chemicals—that it’s hard to say no. Finding organic food, on the other hand, can be a little more challenging. Fitting organic food into family budgets? Even more challenging, especially in this era of soaring food costs and especially if you want to go all the way organic—or as close to it as you can get—as there’s no denying many organic foods come at a premium.

But here’s some good news. Sources for organic food are growing all the time. And depending on what you’re buying, organic might not be the only consideration, or even the best way to go.

Dollars and Sense

The best approach to sourcing and shopping for organic food is a strategic one, and there are lots of elements to consider when developing your strategy.

Prioritize

Start by determining which foods are most important to buy organic and focus your efforts—and your money—on them. Considerations to keep in mind include:

• The fruit and vegetable choices detailed in Chapter 5. As discussed, you’ll want to choose organic when buying the items of greatest concern—strawberries, apples, celery, lettuce, spinach, etc.

• The foods you and your family eat or drink most often. If it’s something you eat every day—say you’re a cottage cheese fan and you can’t start your day without it—try to buy organic (or make it yourself; you’ll find a recipe for it in Chapter 7).

• If it’s something you or a family member will eat a lot of in one sitting. If you can finish off a carton of blackberries at once or your kids routinely pop baby carrots or blueberries in their mouths, organic is the way to go.

• If you’re pregnant or breast feeding. There isn’t a large body of research to support claims that ingesting foods with low levels of pesticides can result in adverse health effects, but this doesn’t mean it’s not harmful, so why risk it? It simply makes sense to avoid fruit and vegetables that rank high on the pesticide list when pregnant. Seeking out organic choices for meat, poultry, milk, and eggs is also a wise choice.

• If you’re feeding a baby or toddler. As previously discussed, toxins are a bigger threat to little ones. Options here include Gerber, one of the most trusted names in baby foods, which now has a full line of certified organic products for infants through toddlers. There are also a number of boutique brands to keep an eye out for when shopping. And of course, you can make your own from freshly purchased organic products. Fresh Baby (www.freshbaby.com) even offers a baby food kit—including a cookbook, how-to DVD, freezer trays, and nutrition tips card—if you need some help getting started.

Definitely think twice about buying highly processed organics—bread, cookies, chips, pasta, cereals, other packaged foods like canned or dried fruit and vegetables—as the cooking and processing they go through eliminates much of their nutrient value. Read labels closely; look for products made with whole grains and healthy oils and with fewer preservatives and additives than their conventional counterparts. If you’re on a tight budget, try to make these foods occasional purchases only.

Toxic

If you think you’re okay by washing and peeling vegetables and fruit that are high on the pesticide-watch list, think again. Studies show that both approaches can help reduce pesticides, but won’t eliminate them. Proof positive: nearly all of the data the EWG used to create its lists are based on how people typically wash and prepare produce.

Seasonalize

Strawberries purchased in the dead of winter will cost you a heck of a lot more than buying them in season, organic or not, as they had to travel a long way to get to you. Buying frozen organic strawberries is one option for saving on cost. Selecting fruit that’s in season—and therefore cheaper—is another.

The same rule goes for many other produce items—artichokes, asparagus, tomatoes, you name it. Stick to buying produce in season, and you’ll not only realize better prices, you’ll probably get better products, too—locally grown organics, which haven’t traveled hundreds if not thousands of food miles, will most likely be in better shape and can taste better, too.

Localize … or Not

We discussed local foods a bit in Chapter 2 and touched on them briefly above, but there’s more to the story. As demand for organic products continues to increase, a greater amount of them are being produced by far-flung growers. Inspectors routinely travel to places like Chile and China to put companies there through their paces for organic certification.

“Big” versus “small” and “global” versus “local” are the subjects of some pretty heated debates in the organic-living world these days. If you’re buying organic out of concern for the earth, you might want to skip the products from mega-producers who ship organic products thousands of miles to their destinations. If you’re buying organic for better taste, you’re probably better off choosing the locally grown over the items that were shipped from the other side of the globe, losing their flavor and freshness along the way.

The Dirt

It’s estimated that produce travels an average distance of 1,500 miles from farms to the homes of consumers. This not only results in higher fuel costs, it takes away revenues from local farmers.

Compare apples to apples (no pun intended, but hopefully they’re organic) and there might be a huge price difference between one grown locally and one trucked in from some far-away locale. The choice is up to you.

Buying locally grown produce:

• Reduces transportation costs and lessens carbon emissions.

• Supports local communities by helping to preserve and maintain an integral part of their heritage. It goes without saying that you’re doing your part to bolster the local economy as well.

• Can put more money into producers’ pockets. The money to get products to market has to come from somewhere. Selling locally lowers transportation and other costs for growers and producers.

• Supports crop diversity and quality. Big corporate farms typically grow one crop for market. Local producers typically don’t follow this practice—called monocropping—and instead focus on soil health and sustainability by growing an assortment of crops.

There are many layers to the big versus small and local versus far away debates. For you, the decision might come down to availability and time. Sourcing local produce, particularly if you’re picky about what you’re looking for, can mean traveling from grocery store to co-op to health food store to farmers’ market. If time is short, or you’re shopping for something out of season, the trade-off might be to default to what’s easily available.

Sourcing Organic Food

Spurred by consumer demand and marketplace competition, sources for healthy, organic food are improving. Chances are better than ever before that you will be able to find what you’re looking for.

The venues that follow are the most common sources for finding organic food.

Supermarkets and Super-Super Markets

Most grocery stores carry some organic food, even if it’s just packaged products, and have done so for some time now. Many also offer a good selection of organic products in their dairy section, and a steadily growing selection of organic produce.

Another positive trend spotted in many supermarkets is labeling on fresh produce that indicates where it comes from. If the produce at your market isn’t labeled or specific items you’re interested in aren’t labeled, ask for more information.

Mega-retailers, like Wal-Mart, Sam’s Club, and Costco, have all moved into organics in some way. Wal-Mart has received a lot of press—both good and bad—about its role in the organic industry, but there’s no denying the company has made a significant impact. Given Wal-Mart’s global buying approach, it’s easy to assume its organic products all come from miles away, but the company’s website says this isn’t so:

“To help reduce the number of miles food travels and help support rural communities, Wal-Mart has introduced a ‘Food Miles Calculator,’ which allows our buyers to enter information on each supplier and product, determine product pick-up locations and select which of our 38 food distribution centers the product will reach. With this information, the calculator computes the total food miles, which the buyer can use when making buying decisions … To further reduce food miles, we’re buying more produce locally, especially items like potatoes, tomatoes and peaches.”

The key benefit to shopping at big-box or mass retailers is low prices; most likely lower than what you’d pay anywhere else. To get them, though, you might have to buy larger quantities of what you’re after, especially at Sam’s Club and Costco, and you might be buying produce that’s not quite as good in quality due to travel time. Selection can also be somewhat limited.

Specialty Markets

Whole Foods is the industry leader in this category, especially after its 2007 acquisition of Wild Oats, formerly the company’s key competitor. It offers amazing selection and high standards—not everything is organic, but it’s all chosen with a keen eye to quality and ethics.

Whole Foods is often called the Mecca or the Cadillac of the natural/organic food arena; shopping there has been likened to a religious experience more than once. At the same time, the store’s exorbitant prices have earned it the nickname “Whole Paycheck,” so don’t expect to find a bargain.

Whole Foods makes a strong commitment to buying locally when possible and has guidelines for how the term “local” is used in its stores. According to its website, “only produce that has traveled less than a day (seven or fewer hours by car or truck) from the farm to our facility can be labeled ‘locally grown.’” The company also states that “we take pride in informing our customers about our products so that they can make conscious buying choices … We are very open about where our products come from and print the country of origin directly on the package.”

More information on Whole Foods’ philosophies on products and quality standards is at www.wholefoodsmarket.com.

Although it has fewer stores nationally (280 stores in 23 states, according to its website at www.traderjoes.com), Trader Joe’s boasts perhaps a more devoted customer base than Whole Foods. You won’t find many familiar brands at Trader Joe’s, but you will find a lot of familiar types of products. That’s because Trader Joe’s tends to “knock off” their own private label versions of popular product lines, enabling them to offer upscale products at a fraction of the cost.

TJ’s, as the store is affectionately known, bases its unique shopping experience around a wide breadth of these in house brand specialty items—everything from truffles and fine cheeses to body care, vitamins and supplements, to an extensive and exotic line of prepared and frozen foods—all at eyebrow-raising competitive prices.

While not everything at Trader Joe’s is organic, a good number of items are, and the store has also committed to sourcing milk and butter from cows not treated with rBST, bread crafted without artificial preservatives, and eggs from cage-free chickens. Trader Joe’s has also been an industry leader in phasing out genetically modified ingredients, promising their in-house brands are completely GMO-free. The company has yet to take a stance on the question of local versus organic, however, and there is no obvious signage around products to indicate from whence the item in question came. Packaged goods are definitely the store’s strong suit; produce selection is usually quite limited and underwhelming, particularly as compared to a Whole Foods or a local food co-op.

Natural Food Stores and Co-ops

These buying options are discussed together as they share some basic characteristics—they’re typically not chain operations (although some are) and they’re usually more closely tied to their communities, so it’s not uncommon to see a variety of locally produced items at them. The key difference between the two is that co-ops are what the name implies—they’re cooperative efforts, usually requiring a buy-in or membership fee and sometimes requiring some hands-on work by their members.

The big advantage to shopping at both is their commitment to healthy food—often organic, if not necessarily certified organic. You’re unlikely to find big-name consumer brands at these stores, and since they don’t have the buying power of chain groceries, prices are more along the lines of a Whole Foods than a Costco. But they can be excellent sources for regional goods like locally raised meat and poultry, and locally produced dairy or baked goods. You might even find handcrafted soap and other body care products at them.

Farmers’ Markets

Farmers’ markets can go a long way toward re-establishing and preserving a direct connection to local growers. However, they’re not all set up the same way. Some will only allow products from local growers; others will allow imported products and vendors who buy from distributors for resale.

Shopping at farmers’ markets can be a lot of fun and a great way to educate children about the food they eat and where it comes from. Chances are you won’t find everything you need every time you go, as the selection will vary depending on the season. But as long as you’re prepared to be flexible with your menu plans, you’ll probably meet the people actually responsible for growing the food they’re selling and be able to talk with them about it. Unlike your average supermarket stocker, farmers usually have terrific recipe tips and are happy to introduce you to a new ingredient you may have been shy to try before.

The Dirt

Local producers are less likely to have certified organic products. This doesn’t necessarily mean that their products aren’t organic; it has more to do with their not being able to (or not wanting to) participate in the process. If you have questions, just ask. It’s one of the benefits of buying direct from local producers.

Straight from the Source

Going directly to the source for your food can—and probably will—satisfy any issues you might have about buying locally. Check local papers—free shoppers and classified ad sections are good for this—for “pick ’em yourself” ads and ads for locally raised beef and poultry. You can even find purveyors in highly urbanized areas, especially if you’re willing to drive a bit.

The Eat Well Guide (www.eatwellguide.org) is one online source for finding local sources for sustainable and organic food. Local Harvest (www.localharvest.org) has a searchable database for local organic sources, including farmers’ markets, restaurants, co-ops, community-supported agriculture, and online stores. The site doesn’t restrict listings to organic producers, stating that “our mission is first and foremost to support small growers, and then to promote organic agriculture,” but does categorize listings by certified organic, naturally grown, certified naturally grown, and so on.

Community Supported Agriculture, or CSA, is a great way to buy directly from the source and make an investment in the operations you’re buying from as well. To participate in a CSA, you buy a share in a farm—typically a lump-sum payment at the beginning of the growing season. This “seed money” helps the producer with his or her costs. In return, you get a selection of fresh produce of various types—it’s almost never the same—every week during the growing season, or during the season for whatever it is you’re buying—produce-based CSAs are the most common but they’ve been established for everything from beef to yarn.

It’s Organic

Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) began in the 1980s. Today there are more than 1,500 CSAs in the United States.

Online/Home Delivery

What can’t you find online these days? Having trouble sourcing organic almonds? Braga Organic Farms (stores.buyorganicnuts.com) has them, and organic pistachios, too. So does Nuts Online (www.nutsonline.com) and a number of other companies with online presences.

Some sites to know about, especially when it comes to finding hard-to-find food, include:

• Nichepork (www.nichepork.org). For sustainably raised pork. Enter your zip code and what you’re looking for in their searchable database to find producers near you.

• Niman Ranch (www.nimanranch.com). For livestock billed as raised “traditionally, humanely, and sustainably.”

• Diamond Organics (www.diamondorganics.com). An elegant selection of organic cheeses, many of them artisanal, and many other products, including fruit, nuts, vegetables, meats, and even organic flowers, all with guaranteed nationwide overnight delivery.

• Artisanal Cheese (www.artisanalcheese.com). A small offering of organic cheeses to be had, but some interesting ones, including a USDA certified organic Pecorino from Italy.

• La Cense (www.lacensebeef.com). Another source for sustainably raised, 100 percent grass-fed beef.

This is just a small taste of what you can find online. Do a search with the words “organic” and whatever you’re looking for, and have fun shopping!

It’s Organic

Looking for certified organic flowers? Good. Conventionally grown flowers are riddled with chemical pesticides, which harm workers, the environment, and even consumers. You can always grow your own organic flowers to enjoy and give away. Or see if your local florist or CSA farm sells organic flowers. Can’t find a local producer? Go to www.organicbouquet.com for sustainably grown organic blooms.

Deciphering the Labels

“Certified organic.” “Certified naturally grown.” “Natural.” “Free range.” These are just a few of the designations you’ll come across when shopping for organic food, and there are plenty of others as well.

While the wording might look and read surprisingly similar between various labels, they definitely don’t mean the same thing. In fact, there are big differences in the meanings behind the labels—differences you’ll definitely want to keep in mind when you’re shopping.

What
Is in a Label?

In the earliest days of the organic movement—going back to the beginning of organic food marketing in the 1940s—there was no such thing as organic labeling. If you wanted to be sure that you were buying food produced organically, you typically bought it directly from the people who grew it, or you grew it yourself.

The story of how the organic industry went from no labels to lots of labels is long and involved. We won’t bore you with all the details, but knowing a little bit will help explain why there are so many labels, as well as the relative meanings behind them. So, here goes …

When the organic movement went through its first big boom period in the 1970s, many consumers lost their direct connections to farmers. Increasing demand made it difficult for local producers to keep up, and the supply chain lengthened as a result. Product selection expanded with it, but so did the likelihood that the products people were clamoring for would come from miles away and pass through many hands before they reached the marketplace. Organic producers had to find another way to assure the public that the products they were bringing to market were really organic.

A process known as third-party certification was the organic industry’s solution for providing the assurances consumers wanted. This approach isn’t specific to the organic industry—it’s used in many other industries to verify that a set of criteria, claims, or standards is being met—but the organic industry is one of the better-known applications of it, and the process is largely acknowledged as a key driver in both standardizing and growing the industry.

def•i•ni•tion

Third-party certification is a certification of a product awarded by a third party after an evaluation to determine if standards are met.

California Certified Organic Farmers, founded in 1973, was one of the first U.S. organizations to put organic certification programs into place. Other organizations and states followed suit, and by the late 1980s there were a number of private and state-run programs. By the early 1990s, 22 states had organic laws or regulations; more than 30 government and private groups were certifying organic farmers and organically grown food products. They had similar goals and standards, but not similar enough. What one agency might certify organic might not be considered organic to another.

A widely reported news story about conventionally grown carrots being sold as organic and rising concerns over pesticide use fueled calls for more unified organic standards. The result was the Organic Foods Protection Act (OFPA) of 1990.

The act called for the U.S. Department of Agriculture to develop national standards for organically produced agricultural products so that consumers could be confident that the products represented and marketed as organic met consistent, uniform standards. After much debate, the standards were implemented on April 21, 2001, and all organic certifiers, producers, processors, and handlers were required to be in full compliance by October 21, 2002.

USDA Certified Organic

Producers that participate in the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) are allowed to display a label stating this on their products. When you see these labels, you’ll know the producer has successfully passed the NOP’s certification program by complying with the regulations and standards established by the federal government, which include, in part:

• Raising crops without the use of most conventional pesticides, fertilizers, or sewage sludge.

• Feeding animals organic feed and allowing them access to the outdoors.

• Not using antibiotics or growth hormones on animals.

• Producing and handling products without genetic engineering, irradiation, or sewage sludge.

Secondly, you’ll know the producer has paid the price to have its product certified. There is a price for the privilege of participating in the government’s certification program, and it can be steep, which is one reason that some producers eschew the federal program, even though they’ve farmed organically for years. It’s also why there are other labels you’ll want to know about.

The USDA program certifies meat, dairy, wine and beer, produce, processed foods, and grains. (As noted in Chapter 5, fish gets a pass at this point.) Foods in these categories may be grown and produced in the United States or in other countries for export to the United States as long as they meet the NOP standards and are certified by USDA-sanctioned agents.

The Dirt

The government does allow producers with less than $5,000 in sales of organic products annually to describe and label their products as organic (not with the government’s label, though) without going through the certification process, as long as they are truthful in their claims and comply with government standards.

Federal legislation further defines four levels of organics, and these levels are reflected in how products are labeled. Here’s what you’ll see:

• “100 percent organic.” These are single-source products—fruit, vegetables, meat, milk, and cheese—and multisource products made entirely with certified organic ingredients and methods.

• “Organic.” Products with at least 95 percent organic ingredients can use the word organic. They can also display the USDA organic seal.

• “Made with organic ingredients.” Processed products that contain at least 70 percent organic ingredients can use this phrase and list up to three of the organic ingredients or food groups on the principal display label. These products can’t display the USDA organic seal.

• “Contains organic ingredients.” Products that contain less than 70 percent organic ingredients can state that they do but can’t use the term “organic” anywhere on their front panel. They can list organic ingredients on the ingredient label. These products also can’t display the USDA organic seal.

It’s Organic

Is the USDA organic label the gold standard? There’s definitely some difference of opinion, and it’s growing. While it’s clearly better than nothing, some feel the USDA certification process isn’t stringent enough. Enforcement has been an issue: the NOP has a small staff—less than 10 in 2007—and a tiny budget—just $1.5 million in 2007, upped to $2.7 million in 2008. Consistency of standards has also been an issue; as more and more companies seek to enter the business and/or expand their product offerings, the NOP is regularly under pressure to define and re-define its standards and to approve the use of non-organic ingredients like food colorings and other components (non-organic hops for organic beer is one of the latest entries in this arena). Has the program had the intended effect on consumer confidence? This one’s hard to answer. In 2001, the first year labeling went into effect, sales of organic foods and beverages exceeded $9 billion. Sales topped $14 billion in 2007. Was this increase label driven, or simply the continuation of a trend that was already in place?

Other Labels

The USDA organic label is the only label that provides government-backed assurance the products you buy are organic, but it’s far from the only label you’ll see when shopping for organic food. Nor should it be the only label you look for. Restrict your shopping to only USDA-certified products and you’ll be missing out on some great food produced by people who don’t participate in the USDA’s program.

That said, so many labels are used on food these days, it’s difficult to differentiate the ones that mean something from the ones that speak more to the dubious claims of marketing programs. For example, pretty much anything can be labeled “natural,” even if the product itself is anything but.

The following is a rundown on some other labels you might see. We’ll start with the ones backed by certification programs and end with ones that make general, unverified claims.

It’s Organic

Want to know exactly what the label on a food product means? Go to www.greenerchoices.org and click on the link to the eco-labels center. Go to the label index for a quick and easy rundown on the labels you’re most likely to see.

Certified Naturally Grown

Certified naturally grown is a certification program that was primarily created for small-scale organic farmers. Farmers in this program follow the USDA’s organic standards; the only differences between the two programs are in the recordkeeping and inspection requirements, which are designed to better match the needs of smaller growers.

Certified Humane Raised and Handled

This certification program is administered by Humane Farm Animal Care and covers eggs, dairy, poultry, and meat. Producers and processors must meet animal care standards developed by a team of veterinarians and animal scientists. These standards require that producers and processors allow animals to engage in their natural behaviors, that they raise animals with sufficient space and shelter, and that the animals are handled gently to limit stress. Producers and processors must also provide ample fresh water and a healthy diet without added antibiotics or hormones.

The website, www.certifiedhumane.org, provides fact sheets on key elements of the organization’s animal care standards, a searchable database of locations where Certified Humane Raised & Handled products can be found, and a list of Certified Humane Raised & Handled producers.

Animal Welfare Approved

This program is run by the Animal Welfare Institute and certifies meat, poultry, dairy, and eggs. Participants must be independent family farms and must agree to raise animals humanely and naturally, as well as to raise only one type of animal—split or dual production is prohibited.

American Humane Certified

Part of the American Humane Association and formerly known as the Free Farmed program, this program certifies beef, dairy, eggs, pork, sheep, and turkey. Participants must certify that their animals have clean and sufficient food and water, and are housed in “an environment that’s not dangerous to their health.” The people who take care of them are required to be trained in animal husbandry and welfare and to have good working knowledge of their operation and the animals under their care.

A list of certified producers is available at www.americanhumane.org.

The following labels speak more to other issues pertaining to how food is produced. Food products that bear them may or may not be organic.

Marine Stewardship Council

The Marine Stewardship Council is a global nonprofit that was established to find a solution to overfishing. It certifies seafood, and requires that fish and shellfish be sustainably harvested.

A list of brands, products, and stores that carry them is available at www.msc.org.

Fairtrade Certified

The standards for this certification were developed by the Fairtrade Labeling Organizations International (FLO) to both encourage sustainable farming methods and ensure that farmers and workers are paid fairly. Products certified include coffee, tea, herbs, cocoa, chocolate, fresh fruit, flowers, sugar, rice, and vanilla.

According to the website, Fair Trade certification is no guarantee that products are organically grown, but “Fair Trade farmers are more likely to use sustainable, traditional growing methods rather than apply (expensive) agrochemicals, and producer groups frequently use Fair Trade revenues to train members in environmentally sustainable farming practices and to finance the cost of organic certification.”

Rainforest Alliance Certified

Rainforest Alliance certification covers bananas, citrus, coffee, and cocoa produced in areas where rivers, soil, and wildlife are protected and where workers are paid fairly and provided dignified living conditions.

Salmon-Safe

Salmon-Safe certification means that products were created using practices that keep the Pacific Northwest waterways clean enough for wild salmon to thrive. It covers wine, fruit, eggs, beef, lamb, produce, and beer. Certified foods may or may not be organic; the program allows the use of synthetic or naturally occurring pesticides and fertilizers “that are chosen with consideration for having the least impact on aquatic ecosystems.”

Demeter

Demeter is a network of certification organizations in 45 countries. It certifies biodynamic farms—farms that are managed as living organisms in keeping with the principals established by Rudolf Steiner—as well as processors and products.

General Claims Labels

Statements like “free range” or “cage free” can conjure up images of happy, healthy animals, and products bearing labels that make these statements certainly might have come from such animals. However, labels with wording like this are often more about how products are marketed than anything else—they’re usually placed on the product by the manufacturer and many are not independently verified.

Labels in this category you might see include:

• “Natural.” As noted, this statement is often confused with organic, although it can mean anything but. According to Greener Choice’s eco-labels website, the term is only verified when it comes to meat products. Therefore, it can be applied to anything other than meat without verification, and is often abused.

• “Grass fed” (also “grass pastured”). Foods covered: beef and lamb. Animals were primarily fed grass—no grain or animal byproducts—but it doesn’t necessarily mean that they roamed freely when they were fed. According to Eco-labels, USDA verification is voluntary; products that have been verified can display a label with the “USDA Process Verified” shield and the claim “U.S. Grass-fed”.

• “No hormones administered” (also “hormone free,” “no hormones”). Foods covered: beef, pork, lamb, and poultry. Beef and lamb are the only animals that the federal government allows to be treated with hormones, so this label is pretty worthless when it comes to pork and poultry, but you’ll still see it—along with a qualifying statement about federal regulations prohibiting the use of hormones on these animals.

• “No antibiotics administered” or “raised without antibiotics.” Foods covered: beef, lamb, pork, dairy, poultry, and eggs.

• “Free range” or “free roaming.” Foods covered: poultry, eggs, and meat. This means that the animals were given daily access to the outdoors. It doesn’t mean they used it.

• “Cage free.” Foods covered: poultry. Cage-free means birds raised without cages, but it doesn’t mean that they were given access to the outdoors or that they were allowed to roam freely.

The Least You Need to Know

• Sources for finding organic food are becoming more plentiful all the time.

• Locally produced organics are more environmentally-friendly and usually fresher and more flavorful than industrially produced organics shipped from far away.

• Some producers choose not to pay to become certified organic, even if they’ve been farming that way for years.

• With so many different labels clamoring for your attention, it’s important to educate yourself on which ones are verifiable before you shop.

Chapter 7

Cooking Organic

In This Chapter

• Basic good eats

• Making veggies shine

• Grilled delights

• Delectable organic desserts

You can make just about any dish organic simply by using organic products, but there are some ingredients and some recipes that lend themselves to organic cooking extremely well.

The recipes in this chapter were selected to give you an idea of what’s possible and to fill in the cracks if you’re having trouble sourcing certain organic products such as butter and cheese—yes, you can make them both, and chances are you already have what you need in your kitchen for doing so. And even if you do have ready access to these products, you might want to give the homemade versions a try; they’re pretty tasty, and if you have children they might get a kick out of it.

Many of the recipes you’ll see are courtesy of Sustainable Table (www.sustainabletable.org), which “works to build community through food” by educating consumers and serving up healthy, sustainable food choices. Many thanks go to Sustainable Table and the recipe authors for graciously allowing them to appear here … be sure to check out Sustainable Table for more great organic and sustainable recipes.

Simple Basics

All great chefs have tried-and-true go-to recipes that they depend on. The following will start you off with a collection of organic-based go-tos of your own.

Basic Vinaigrette

Adds a tangy touch to salads; also great for dipping artichokes or for dressing warm vegetables like summer squash and asparagus.

3 TB. vinegar (red wine or
apple cider)
¼ to ½ tsp. salt (Celtic light
grey sea salt works well here)

1 TB. shallot, finely diced
6 TB. oil (extra-virgin olive
oil or sunflower oil)

1. Pour vinegar into mixing bowl (can also go directly into salad bowl if you’re making salad for more than one). Add salt and stir. Allow to sit until salt dissolves.

2. Add oil and chopped shallot. Stir to blend.

Note: Depending on the acidity level of the vinegar, you might need to add more oil. If so, add by teaspoons until desired proportion is reached.

Variation: This recipe can be adapted in various ways to suit the kind of salad you’re making or the vegetables you’re dressing. For Greek salad, add 1 tsp. each of the following dry herbs: thyme, oregano, parsley. For a peppery dressing, add ½ tsp. red pepper flakes. Try various salts for different flavors. You can also substitute the shallot with 1 to 2 tsp. (or to taste) finely diced garlic.

Yields
½ cup

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: 2 TB. vinaigrette

Yields 3 cups

Prep time: 20 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ¼ cup pesto

Fresh Pesto, by Chantal Clabrough for SustainableTable.org

Pesto is amazingly versatile; you can use it to dress up salads, pasta, sandwiches, grilled vegetables, almost anything you can think of.

8 cups fresh basil, packed
3 cups fresh coriander,
packed (if coriander isn’t
available, up basil to 11 cups)

4 cups fresh Parmigiano
Reggiano or Romano cheese
2 TB. walnuts
2 cups olive oil
Salt

1. Wash basil and coriander, pat dry with paper towels. Remove all leaves from stems.

2. Place basil and coriander in food processor or blender (food processor is the best choice but a blender will work). Grind.

3. While processor or blender is running, slowly add the cheese and walnuts.

4. Slowly pour in olive oil while processor is running. Pulse the sauce until creamy.

5. Add salt to taste.

Tips: You can freeze pesto in ice cube trays. Remove pesto cubes from trays when frozen and store in freezer bags or containers. This way you can easily use a bit of pesto on salads or sandwiches. Frozen pesto will last in the freezer for 6 months. To thaw, put in the refrigerator the night before or defrost quickly in the microwave.

Chicken Lickin’ Good Stock

Far better tasting than anything available commercially.

Bones from about 3 chickens
(carcasses from whole roasted
chickens are ideal for this,
but any will do; save them
in the freezer until you have
enough)
1 to 2 celery stalks, tops
included
1 to 2 carrots

1 onion, quartered
5 to 10 peppercorns
1 cup parsley, roughly
chopped
1 to 2 bay leaves
1 tsp. salt
2 gal. cold water (enough to
cover bones when placed in
pot)

1. Place all ingredients in a 12-quart stockpot. Cover the bones with at least an inch of water.

2. Bring to a boil. As it does, scum and froth will appear; skim this off with a large spoon. Lower the heat to where bubbles just appear in the water and cook for 2½ to 3 hours.

3. Remove from heat and cool until you can comfortably handle it, then strain into a large bowl or another pot. Allow to cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate until cold.

4. Remove from refrigerator and skim off any fat that has risen to the surface. Use immediately, freeze into cubes for later use, or return to stove and cook down further if you want a more concentrated stock.

Yields 5 quarts

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 3+ hours, plus at least 1 hour cooling time Serving size: 2 cups stock

Butter and Cheese, Please!

You might not have to make butter and/or cheese, but after you do you might start thinking about making them more often. This is dairy goodness as fresh as it gets.

Better Butter

You’ll be amazed at how easy this is to make, and how good it tastes.

Yields approximately 1 cup

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: 1 TB. butter

2 cups heavy cream

¼ tsp. salt (optional)

1. Pour cream into food processor or blender. Process for 10 minutes or until the solids separate from the liquid.

2. Pour off liquid (this is buttermilk and you can keep and drink it if you want) and season with salt if desired. Some liquid will remain behind. You can remove it by placing the butter in a bowl and smashing it down with the back of a tablespoon. If you don’t plan to use it right away, it will store better if you remove more of the liquid. Rinse with cold water until water runs clear, then work with tablespoon or place in covered jar and shake or tumble, removing water as it separates from butter.

Creamy White Cheese

This simple recipe delivers a squeaky-fresh cheese with a slightly sweet taste and a texture similar to ricotta.

½ gallon whole milk

4 to 5 TB. lemon juice, fresh

1. Pour milk into a large saucepan. Heat to rolling boil over medium heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon to prevent sticking.

2. When milk comes to a boil, remove from heat. Immediately but slowly add lemon juice. Gently move wooden spoon through milk in one direction only. The milk will start to separate into small lumps or curds (this is the cheese) and water (this is whey).

3. Cover the pan and let sit for 2 hours. This allows the curds to set properly.

4. Line a colander with cheesecloth. Place in sink or in a large bowl if you want to collect the whey. Pour the curdled milk into the colander and allow liquid to drain off.

5. When all liquid has been drained, gather the corners of the cheesecloth together to form a bag. Tie with twine or string.

6. Hang the bag over the sink or a bowl for up to 3 hours to allow any remaining whey to drain. Refrigerate. This cheese will keep up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

Yields about 1 cup

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: 15 minutes, plus 5 hours resting and draining Serving size: ½ cup fresh cheese

Appetizers

The following recipes are a great way to serve up organic goodness at parties and other gatherings.

Salsa Olé!

As basic as it comes, but as good as it can be. Great with chips; also try it over eggs or grilled chicken.

Yields 2 cups

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ¼ cup salsa

8 medium tomatoes, whatever’s
fresh and available (Roma
or plum tomatoes work
well), diced (chunky or fine,
depending on how you like it)
2 TB. diced onion (white,
yellow, red—your choice)
2 serrano chiles, finely diced
(retain seeds if you want to
boost the heat, if not, remove
prior to chopping)

2 TB. fresh cilantro leaves,
chopped (if cilantro’s not
available, Italian parsley is a
good substitute)
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. salt
1 TB. fresh lime juice
1 small garlic clove, finely
diced (optional)

1. Place tomatoes, onion, chiles, and cilantro leaves in medium bowl and toss to combine.

2. Place sugar, salt, lime juice, and garlic clove (if using) in a small bowl and mix well. Pour over tomato mixture and toss well. If necessary, add more sugar or salt to taste.

3. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to combine flavors.

Crispy Date Roll-Ups, by Dorit of SerenitySpaces.org for SustainableTable.org

The crunchy tartness of romaine leaves is the perfect complement to the sweet date paste in this recipe.

10 to 12 dates, pits removed
½ tsp. freshly squeezed
lemon juice

Dash cinnamon
7 to 10 romaine leaves

1. Place dates, lemon juice, and cinnamon in food processor. Blend until they form a smooth paste.

2. Spread the paste on each romaine leaf. Roll lengthwise and secure with a toothpick.

Yields 7 to 10 roll-ups

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: 1 roll-up

Yields 2 cups

Prep time: 15-20 minutes, plus 3-4 hours presoaking Cook time: none Servings: ½ to 1 cup hummus

Zucchini Hummus, by Dorit of SerenitySpaces.org for SustainableTable.org

Zucchini adds an interesting vegetable twist to this classic dip. It’s also a great substitute for traditional chickpea-based hummus for those who have difficulties digesting beans.

2 cloves garlic
1 zucchini, peeled and rough
chopped
2 cups raw sunflower seeds
(pre-soaked for 2-4 hours)
½ cup raw tahini (or
½ cup
raw sesame seeds, pre-soaked
for 3 to 4 hours)

⅓ cup water
⅓ cup extra-virgin coldpressed
olive oil
2 tsp. Celtic sea salt
lettuce leaves (or celery
sticks)

1. Blend garlic, zucchini, sunflower seeds, tahini or sesame seeds, water, olive oil, and sea salt in food processor until creamy.

2. Spread on lettuce leaves and wrap or place on celery sticks and serve.

Note: Sesame seeds are very high in calcium. If using raw sesame seeds try to find black ones—they have the highest calcium content.

Salads

The following recipes showcase the brilliant flavors of organic produce.

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Market Basil, Cucumber, and Grilled Sourdough, by Chef Kurt Michael Friese for SustainableTable.org

1 loaf sourdough bread
¾ cup olive oil
6 heirloom tomatoes (such
as German Zebra or Purple
Cherokees) cut into 2-inch
cubes
2 cucumbers, peeled, cut
lengthwise, and sliced
1 red onion, peeled and
thinly sliced

12 market basil leaves, cut
into thin strips
2 garlic cloves, peeled and
finely minced
⅛ to ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
2 oz. red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper

1. Heat grill to high. Cut sourdough bread into 1-inch thick slices and drizzle with 1 ounce of olive oil. Place on grill and toast for approximately 2 minutes per side. Remove and cool.

2. Combine tomatoes, cucumbers, onion, basil, and garlic and mix well.

3. Cut toasted bread into 1-inch cubes. Add to tomato mixture. Add pepper flakes.

4. Combine vinegar and olive oil in a small cup or bowl with a lid (a disposable coffee cup and lid works great). Shake vigorously to combine. Add to salad mixture.

5. Season with salt and pepper and allow salad to marinate for about 1 hour before eating. It gets better with time.

6. Serve in bowls with a little drizzle of olive oil to finish.

Yields 6 servings

Prep time: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour to marinate Cook time: 10 minutes Serving size: 2 cups salad

Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries, and Toasted Walnuts

Tangy feta cheese and sweet dried cranberries take a basic salad up a notch. Walnuts are packed with heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids.

Yields 4 servings

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 10 minutes or so (for the walnuts) Serving size: 2½ cups greens

1 cup walnuts
8 cups fresh greens, whatever’s
available (spinach, baby
greens, spring greens, or field
greens all work well here)

4 to 8 grape tomatoes, halved
vinaigrette (see recipe above)
½ cup feta cheese, crumbled
⅓ to ½ cup dried cranberries
Pepper (optional)

1. Heat medium-sized pan over medium heat. When a drop of water dances on the surface, add walnuts. Cook until they begin to release their aroma, stirring or shaking every minute or so. When you can smell them, remove from heat and cool.

2. Wash greens, pat dry, and place in large bowl. Add tomatoes and vinaigrette and toss to coat.

3. Break cooled walnuts into coarse pieces, add to bowl. Add feta cheese and dried cranberries and toss lightly to mix. Season with pepper to taste (if using) and serve.

Variations: Consider this a basic salad recipe and don’t be afraid to experiment with it. Variations include substituting chevre or bleu cheese for the feta, substituting raisins or blueberries (dried or fresh) for the cranberries, adding thin slices of apples or pears. Just about any kind of nut can stand in for the walnuts—almonds, pecans, and macadamias are good choices. If you like a sweeter dressing, try adding a few cranberries to the vinaigrette and let sit for a few minutes, or add a teaspoon or two of organic fruit juice or natural sugar—whatever you like or have at hand.

Holiday Harvest Salad, by Karen Hudson for SustainableTable.org

This salad makes a nice side dish for Thanksgiving.

2 boxes orange or raspberry
flavor gelatin (if you want
to make this vegetarian, use
Hain Super Fruits)
1 can whole-berry cranberry
sauce
1½ cups grape or orange
juice
1 (16 oz.) can dark sweet
cherries, undrained

1 (8 oz.) small can pineapple
tidbits
1½ cup seedless red or green
grapes, halved
1 cup diced apple
½ to 1 cup walnuts or pecans
(optional)

1. Place gelatin in large bowl. Bring juice to a boil in a medium saucepan and mix with gelatin, dissolving and stirring for 2 minutes.

2. Fold in cranberry sauce, cherries, pineapple, grapes, apple, and nuts (if using).

3. Cover bowl and refrigerate overnight.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with this salad; many other fruits and even some vegetables are good in it.

Yields 8 servings

Prep time: 10 minutes, plus 12 hours refrigeration Cook time: 20 minutes Serving size: 1 cup salad

Entrées

Dinnertime favorites, from simple, rustic pasta to a savory stew, all with the added nutrition and flavor of organic ingredients.

Corn and Pepper Frittata with Salsa Verde, by Dawn Brighid for SustainableTable.org

This is a versatile recipe that can be altered to use any seasonal vegetable. Can be served at room temperature, hot, or cold.

Yields 1 frittata

Prep time: 25 minutes Cook time: 35 minutes Serving size: 1/6 to ⅛ of pan

½ cup cilantro, washed and
dried
½ cup Italian parsley, washed
and dried
1 TB. (heaping) capers
½ lime, juiced
½ jalapeño or other hot green
pepper, roughly chopped
(optional)
⅓ cup and 3 TB. extra virgin
olive oil
1 small white onion, chopped

1 medium poblano pepper,
chopped
½ jalapeño or other hot green
pepper, chopped
Salt
2 ears sweet corn
1 clove garlic quartered
6 eggs
pepper
1 cup sharp white cheddar,
grated
3 scallions, sliced

1. Place cilantro, parsley, capers, lime, chopped jalapeno, and garlic into food processor and pulse several times.

2. Leave the food processor running, slowly add olive oil, and purée to desired consistency. Allow to sit while you assemble the frittata—the flavors will become more intense as the salsa verde sits and melds.

3. In medium saucepan, sauté onion and poblano and jalapeno peppers in 2 tablespoons of olive oil with a pinch of salt over low heat for about 7 minutes or until onions and peppers have softened.

4. Cut kernels from 1 ear of corn and reserve. Grate the other ear on a cheese grater over a medium bowl to create “corn milk.”

5. Crack all eggs directly into the bowl with the corn milk and vigorously whisk together—this will help make the eggs fluffy. Add salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

6. Add the corn kernels to the onion and pepper mixture and sauté for about 1 minute.

7. If necessary, add 1 tablespoon of oil to the pan (if it looks dry) and swirl around. Increase heat to medium and add the egg mixture. Add cheddar cheese and stir ingredients, spreading them evenly throughout the egg mixture. Place scallions on top and gently pat down into the egg. Cover and cook for about 2 minutes.

8. Preheat the broiler. Transfer the pan (uncovered) to the broiler and let it cook until the top gets a little brown and the eggs are cooked through. If you feel the eggs might need to cook a little longer but the top is already browned, put the cover back on the pan and let it sit on the stove top (with no burners on); the heat will continue to cook the eggs.

9. Let cool and cut into pieces like a pie. Serve with a dollop of salsa verde on top.

Curried Chicken Kabobs, by Jayni Carey of Jayni’s Kitchen, www.freestatestudios.com, for SustainableTable.org

The flavors of India take the spotlight here. Feel free to increase the curry powder, ginger, and peppers to taste.

Yields 4 to 6 kabobs

Prep time: 25 minutes, plus at least 4 hours to marinate Cook time: 25 minutes Serving size: 1 kabob

4 skinless, boneless chicken
breast halves (12 oz.)
½ cup plain yogurt
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ tsp. curry powder
½ tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. chili powder
½ tsp. plus
⅛ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
3 TB. lemon juice

2 TB. cilantro, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
⅓ cup olive oil
Mixed salad greens, or 1 head
leaf lettuce, torn into pieces
1 large tomato, chopped
2 green onions, chopped
2 to 3 cups cooked basmati or
other rice
Fresh cilantro for garnish

1. Rinse chicken in cold water; pat dry with paper towels. Cut into 1-inch pieces and place in a large bowl.

2. In a small bowl, combine yogurt, garlic, curry powder, ginger, chili powder, ½ teaspoon salt, and cayenne pepper. Pour over chicken and turn pieces to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 4 to 24 hours.

3. When ready to grill, remove chicken from the marinade; discard marinade. Thread chicken onto skewers. Grill over medium-high heat on a gas grill, or over medium-hot charcoals for 8 to 12 minutes, or until chicken is tender and no pink remains, turning occasionally. Remove chicken from skewers.

4. In a small bowl, combine lemon juice, cilantro, garlic, and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Whisk in olive oil.

5. In a large bowl, combine salad greens, tomato, and green onions. Toss with half of lemon-cilantro mixture.

6. Serve the chicken over hot cooked rice with salad on the side. Spoon the remaining dressing over the chicken and rice. Garnish with fresh cilantro.

Variation: The skewered chicken may be placed on a baking sheet and broiled in the oven. Cook for 8 to 12 minutes, turning occasionally.

Braised Short Ribs of Beef with Turnips, by Chef Keith Snow for SustainableTable.org

A savory take on a popular yet affordable cut of meat. Can be prepared over a campfire or on the stove.

Yields 4 servings

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 3½ hours Serving size: 2 cups short ribs

8-piece bone-in short ribs of
beef
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. ground black pepper
1 TB. olive oil
1 onion, peeled and quartered
1 small carrot, peeled and
sliced into circles

1 TB. whole-wheat flour
1 can (14.5 oz.) beef broth,
low sodium
1 TB. tomato paste
½ tsp. dried thyme
1 bay leaf
2 large turnips, cubed

1. If cooking over a campfire, preheat Dutch oven over medium-high campfire. If cooking on stovetop, heat Dutch oven to medium high.

2. Season beef with salt and pepper. Heat oil in Dutch oven. Working in two batches, add beef and cook until browned on all sides, turning often, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove to a plate.

3. Reduce heat to medium low, add onion and carrot. Cover and cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Stir in flour and cook, stirring almost continuously, for 1 minute. Gradually stir in broth to make a smooth sauce. Add tomato paste, thyme, and bay leaf.

5. Return beef and any juices that might have accumulated to pot. Bring to a simmer.

6. Cover and simmer until almost tender, 1 to 2 hours.

7. Stir in turnips, cover and cook until turnips and beef are tender, 20 to 30 minutes.

8. Remove beef and turnips to platter. Skim fat from surface of the liquid in the Dutch oven. Discard bay leaf. Return beef and turnips to Dutch oven and serve.

Variation: Depending on the heat of your campfire, you might need to add additional liquid—water or beef broth—to the pot while cooking. You can also do so if you want a thinner sauce.

Whole-Wheat Pasta with Tomatoes, Garlic, and Asiago Cheese

This is a slight twist on an Italian classic. An easy, quick dish and a great way to use up leftover pasta.

Yields 4 servings

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 30 minutes Serving size: 2 cups pasta

1 lb. whole-wheat pasta (you
can use whatever shape you
like; spaghetti or spaghettini
are classic choices)
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 to 6 garlic cloves, peeled
and chopped (if you’re not a
garlic fan, feel free to cut this
down to 1 or 2 cloves)

1 to 2 tsp. pepper flakes
2 medium tomatoes, seeds
removed and coarsely
chopped
¼ cup and ¼ cup Italian parsley,
coarsely chopped
¾ cup Asiago cheese, grated
Salt and pepper

1. Cook pasta to package directions. Drain and reserve ½ cup cooking water.

2. Heat oil in large heavy pan over medium heat. Add garlic and pepper flakes and cook until garlic turns pale yellow (be sure not to overcook garlic; it shouldn’t be brown). Add tomatoes and heat through. Remove pan from heat.

3. Add pasta to saucepan, toss to coat with pan ingredients. Add ¼ cup parsley and toss lightly to mix. If the pasta seems dry, pour in some of the cooking water and toss lightly. Add Asiago cheese and toss again. Add salt and pepper to taste.

4. Remove to plates and garnish with ¼ cup Italian parsley and additional Asiago cheese if desired.

Sides

The following recipes are great adjuncts to a variety of entrees.

Cole Slaw, by Walter Hatz for SustainableTable.org

A vinegar-based cole slaw that puts the crunchy goodness of the ingredients in the spotlight.

1 lb. cabbage, shredded
(green, red, or a mixture of
both)
2 medium carrots, scraped
and chopped
1 small onion, peeled and
chopped (optional)
1 small green pepper, seeded

and chopped (optional)
1 stalk celery, de-stringed and
chopped (optional)
¼ cup canola or sunflower oil
2 tsp. sugar (or to taste)
¼ tsp. salt (or to taste)
¼ cup white vinegar

Yields 4 servings

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 10 minutes Serving size: 1½ cup slaw

1. Combine cabbage, carrots, onion, green pepper (if using), and celery (if using) in large bowl.

2. Combine oil, sugar, salt, and vinegar in small saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour over vegetables and mix well.

3. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Grilled Summer Vegetables Mediterranean Style, by Laura Giannatempo for SustainableTable.org

An easy and tasty way of cooking vegetables; great with grilled steak or hamburgers. This dish can also be served as an appetizer.

Yields 4 servings

Prep time: 25 minutes, plus 1 hour to marinate Cook time: 20 minutes Serving size: 4-6 pieces

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 TB. balsamic vinegar
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 TB. fresh basil leaves,
chopped
1 tsp. fresh rosemary (leaves
only), chopped

1 TB. fresh tarragon,
chopped
1 tsp. salt
Freshly ground white pepper
2 zucchini
2 yellow squash
1 eggplant

1. Cut all vegetables lengthwise into thin strips, leaving the peel on and starting with the zucchini and squash.

2. In a flat container, combine oil, vinegar, garlic, basil, rosemary, tarragon, salt, and pepper. Place zucchini, squash, and eggplant in the container, cover with marinade, and marinate for at least 1 hour.

3. Heat a grill, griddle, or grill pan to high. Remove vegetables from marinade, scrape off excess marinade from the vegetables, and place on grill, all facing the same direction. After about 2 minutes, turn 45 degrees and grill for another couple of minutes. Flip the veggies and repeat to create nice crisscross grill marks. (You might have to do this in batches if you’re using a small grill pan or griddle.)

4. Adjust seasoning if necessary and top with a drizzle of olive oil.

Asparagus with Citrus/Ginger Sauce, by Dorit of SerenitySpaces.org for SustainableTable.org

The citrus and ginger adds a spicy zing that complements but doesn’t overwhelm the asparagus in this raw foods dish.

2 to 3 lb. asparagus
1 TB. apple cider vinegar
1 TB. orange juice, freshly
squeezed
1 TB. grated orange zest
1 clove garlic, crushed
1½ tsp. ginger root, freshly
grated
1 tsp. wheat-free tamari

½ tsp. agave (optional)
½ tsp. raw brown mustard
seeds
Dash ground cardamom
Dash sea minerals (or any sea
salt)
Mixed baby greens
10 to 12 cherry tomatoes

Yields 4 servings

Prep time: 20 minutes, plus 6-12 hours to marinate Cook time: none Serving size: 2 cups asparagus

1. Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus and (if desired) peel stalks. Place in large serving bowl.

2. Mix vinegar, orange juice, orange zest, garlic, tamari, agave (if using), mustard seeds, cardamom, and sea minerals in blender. Blend well.

3. Pour mixture over asparagus and allow to marinate overnight in refrigerator or until the desired tenderness is achieved.

4. Serve on a bed of mixed baby greens and garnish with cherry tomatoes.

Desserts

Some people (we’re among them) think that dessert’s the best part of a meal. The following recipes drive that point home … organically!

Black Chocolate Cake, by Laura Giannatempo for SustainableTable.org

A delicious flourless cake with lots of fruit and great flavor.

Yields 1 10-inch cake, serves 6-8 people

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 1½ hours Serving size: 1/6-⅛ of cake

2 cups water
2 cups plus 1 cup sugar
4 lb. (10 medium) apples,
peeled, cored, and sliced
5 oz. (12 pieces) amaretti
cookies, crumbled

3 oz. (
⅔ cup) unsweetened
cocoa powder
6 eggs
⅔ cup rum
½ cup toasted hazelnuts
Butter and flour for dusting

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bring water to a boil in a large saucepan and stir in 2 cups of sugar until it dissolves, forming a simple syrup.

2. Add apples to the syrup and cook over low heat until softened, about 10 to 12 minutes. Strain apples and place in a food processor.

3. Add cookies, cocoa powder, eggs, rum, and hazelnuts and process until a fairly smooth batter forms.

4. Lightly butter and flour a cake pan. Pour batter in.

5. Cook for about 45 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Dawn’s Peach-Blueberry Pie, by Dawn Brighid for SustainableTable.org

This delectable pie makes the most of two popular summer fruits.

7 TB. very cold butter
1¼ cup plus ½ cup whole
wheat pastry flour
⅛ tsp. salt
2 to 3 TB. ice water
6 peaches, peeled and thinly
sliced
1 cup blueberries
Juice from
½ small lemon
Pinch of salt plus pinch of
salt

1½
TB. arrowroot
1 tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. nutmeg
1½
TB. fruit-sweetened
apricot spread
1½
TB. clover honey
½ cup rolled oats
¼ cup sliced almonds
3 TB. date sugar
2 to 3 TB. olive oil

Yields 8 servings

Prep time: 60 minutes Cook time: 1 to 1¼ hours Serving size: ⅛of pie

1. Cut butter into tablespoons and each tablespoon into quarters. Chill in refrigerator or freezer until ready to use.

2. Mix 1¼ cup flour and pinch of salt in medium bowl or food processor. Add butter and cut in using a pastry blender, two forks, or by pulsing in food processor.

3. Add ice water ½ tablespoon at a time, until dough forms into a ball. Gather up and pat into a disk. If possible, refrigerate for 30 minutes before rolling out.

4. Roll dough out between 2 sheets of wax paper. Place loosely into pie plate, then press into place.

5. Toss peaches and blueberries with lemon juice, pinch of salt, arrowroot, spices, apricot spread, and honey. Place in unbaked pie shell.

6. Combine oats, flour, almonds, date sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. Add oil and mix with fingers or pastry blender until crumbly.

7. Sprinkle topping over pie, carefully pressing down just a bit to secure.

8. Bake for 1 to 1¼ hour. You might want to place a cookie sheet on a lower rack under the pie to catch any juice that might drip.

Macerated Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar and Mint, by Laura Giannatempo for SustainableTable.org

Fresh and full of flavor, you can prepare this deliciously light dessert ahead of time and bring it to the table when you’re ready for that “something sweet.” Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Yields 4 servings

Prep time: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour to macerate and chill Cook time: 15 minutes Serving size: 1 cup strawberries

4 TB. balsamic vinegar (aged,
if possible)
4 cups fresh strawberries

½ cup sugar
1 TB. fresh mint leaves,
chopped

1. In a small saucepan, bring vinegar to a boil and cook until reduced to about 1 tablespoon. This will sweeten the vinegar by removing some of its acidity.

2. Cut strawberries in half after removing any leaves. Place in a bowl and add sugar, reduced balsamic vinegar, and mint. Allow to macerate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

Variation: You can substitute 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice for the vinegar.

Family Apple Delight, by Karen Hudson for SustainableTable.org

An apple delight, made good and homey with a creamy, warm sauce.

½ cup plus ¼ cup organic
butter
1 cup plus
½ cup brown
sugar
1 cup plus
½ cup white sugar
2 eggs
2 cups flour
Dash nutmeg
1 tsp. plus dash cinnamon

2 tsp. baking soda
4 cups tart baking apples,
thinly sliced
¾ cup plus
½ cup raisins
½ cup sour cream
1
½ cups cream or half and
half
2 TB. cornstarch
1½ tsp. vanilla

Yields 1 cake (8 servings)

Prep time: 30 minutes Cook time: 1¼ hour Serving size: ⅛of cake

1. Cream ½ cup butter, 1 cup brown sugar, and 1 cup white sugar. Beat in eggs, one at a time.

2. Combine flour, nutmeg, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and baking soda. Add to butter, sugar, and egg mixture.

3. Fold in sliced apples and ¾ cup raisins. Bake in greased and floured 9×13 pan at 350 degrees for 35 to 45 minutes.

4. Melt ¼ cup butter in saucepan. Add dash of cinnamon, 1/2 cup brown sugar, ½ cup white sugar, and ½ cup raisins and cook on medium until sugar is dissolved.

5. Blend cream and cornstarch in a small bowl. Slowly pour a small stream into butter and sugar mixture while stirring. Cook and stir constantly over medium flame until thickened. Stir in vanilla and serve over slices of apple cake.

Variation: Instead of putting the cream sauce on the cake, you can keep the sauce warm in a small crock pot set at a low temperature and allow guests to serve themselves.

A Quick Note About Food Storage

If your kitchen is like most, you probably have a jumble of plastic containers residing somewhere inside your cupboards. While it might be difficult (if not impossible) to do away with all of them, keeping an organic kitchen definitely calls for reducing your use of these items and for ditching the worst of them.

Plastics start out as petroleum, which makes them a less than eco-friendly choice in general, as their production releases toxic chemicals—styrene, benzene, and tricholorothane among them—into the air. Certain types of plastic can also leach and emit other nasty chemicals that you definitely don’t want in your kitchen or, even worse, in your food.

Of the various types of plastic used for food storage, these are the ones you want to avoid as much as possible:

• Bisphenol A (BPA). Created in the 1930s as a synthetic estrogen, it can appear in baby bottles and stain-resistant food storage containers.

• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Used for wrapping meat and in some cooking oil bottles.

• Polystyrene. Also known as Styrofoam, used in disposable coffee cups and take-out containers.

Most plastic products are number-coded from 1 to 7 for recycling purposes, usually on the bottom; the numbers relate to the type of resin that was used to create the product. Products containing bisphenol A are coded #7, PVC is coded #3, and polystyrene is coded #6. Again, these are the ones you want to avoid.

Toxic

Bottles and containers made from #1 or PET plastic are safe to eat or drink from but most containers made of this material are designed as single-use only. Don’t keep them around; they’re hard to clean and they can absorb nasty odors and bacteria.

Safer choices include:

• #2, HDPE; #4, LDPE; and #5, PP. None of these types of plastic transmit harmful chemicals to food. #2 is accepted in most recycling programs; #4 and #5 are more limited so you’ll want to check with your local recycling program to see if they’re accepted.

• Polylactide (PLA) plastics. These are made from renewable resources like corn, potatoes, and other plants that contain a lot of starch. You can’t recycle them but they will break down in compost.

• Non-plastic products, like glass or metal containers.

In general, you should never microwave food in plastic containers, even if they’re labeled as microwave safe. All this designation means is that the containers won’t break or melt in a microwave; it doesn’t mean they won’t leach chemicals into food. If you use plastic wrap when microwaving, position it loosely over the container and don’t let it touch the food.

Avoid storing fatty or oily foods (meats and cheeses) in plastic. Consider buying meats direct from the butcher and wrapped in butcher paper instead of prepackaged items wrapped in plastic.

And finally, buy plastic containers and products that are made from the safer #2, #4, and #5 resins. The Green Guide has a good list of products to look for at www.thegreenguide.com/products/Kitchen/Plastic_Containers. For a list of BPA-free baby bottles and dishes, go to www.thegreenguide.com/products/Kids_&_babies/Baby_Bottles.

The Least You Need to Know

• Almost any recipe can be made organic by using organic products.

• Homemade chicken stock is better tasting than store-bought and keeps well frozen.

• Keeping an organic kitchen calls for reducing your use of plastic containers.

• If you’re going to use plastic containers, choose products made from #2, #4, and #5 resins, which are safer than #3, #6, and #7, all of which contain chemicals that can leach into food.

Part 3

Going Organic from the 3 Ground Up

Organics began with the earth, and what we do with the land around us remains a cornerstone of the organic lifestyle. This part delivers the “dirt” on what you can do to green up your lawn and garden.

Chapter 8

Organic Lawns and Gardens

In This Chapter

• Gardening, naturally

• Creating healthy surroundings

• Controlling pests naturally

• All about IPM

If you’re like most people, you spend a certain amount of time with your hands in dirt. Your interaction with the brown stuff might be limited to sticking some flowers in the pots on your balcony each spring, or you might be an avid gardener tending to thousands of square feet of turf and beds. But no matter who you are, you probably have some sort of green, living things around of which you bear some level of responsibility for taking care.

Statistics also show that, if you’re like the majority of Americans, you’re not an organic gardener. Living organically, however, makes a strong case for taking a more natural approach to whatever dirt digging you do. Or at the very least, it encourages you to integrate as many organic practices into what you do with your green spaces as you possibly can.

Whether it’s a longing to reconnect with our agrarian past or simply the desire to create beautiful surroundings and be personally responsible for doing so, there’s no denying that gardening is one of the great American pastimes. In fact, statistics show that gardening ranks high on the list of favorite activities in some 90 million American households. That’s a lot of soil being moved about.

Why Garden Organically?

Gardening definitely falls on the high end of the organic living spectrum, as it’s such a good thing on so many levels. At its most basic, there’s simply something intrinsically satisfying about messing around with soil and seeing the results of your labors in the lawn and other landscaping around your house, the fruits and vegetables you can feed your family, and the cut flowers you can use in your home to bring touches of nature inside.

Gardening—organically or not—can also do great things for the world around us, including:

• Improving the environment. Plants produce Evapotranspiration is the process by which plant and soil surfaces release water into the atmosphere. oxygen—it’s a byproduct of the photosynthesis process—and add it to the atmosphere. In large quantities (think lawns, which are composed of thousands of grass plants), they help cool hot air through a process called evapotranspiration. They can absorb dust and pollutants, which helps reduce levels of both. When plants die they decompose, which adds organic matter to the soil and improves its health.

• Keeping soil where it should be. Plant roots help to stabilize the ground and prevent it from turning into silt and dust, which can enter both air and water.

• Keeping noise levels down. Trees, shrubs, and berms—small swells or rises in a landscaped area—are great for buffering street noise.

• Keeping energy costs down. Trees and large shrubs planted near houses can help cool them down in warm weather, reducing indoor temperatures by as much as 20 degrees and saving up to 40 percent in energy usage.

def•i•ni•tion

At its most basic, organic gardening means creating and maintaining environments that can do all of these good things without using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides on grass, trees, plants, shrubs, and whatever else that’s green—moss, perhaps—outdoors and in.

But there’s more to organic gardening than just foregoing the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. It also calls for understanding how your green space factors into the natural world as a whole. It calls for taking an empirical approach, literally from the ground up, and working in harmony with the entire ecosystem, which includes the ground, the water, the plants, the animals—basically anything and everything that’s a natural part of the environment around you.

As an example, let’s say you’re working away in your vegetable garden and you happen to notice your tomato plants are looking a little wilted. They could simply need more water, or they might be suffering from midday heat. But their droopiness could also be a result of a host of other problems—poor soil quality, an insect infestation, even overfertilizing.

Or maybe you come across a brown spot while mowing that wasn’t there the last time you cut your grass. It could indicate an insect infestation. One of your sprinkler heads might have gone awry. Or maybe the neighbor’s dog has decided that its new favorite toilet area is your yard—dog urine is loaded with nitrogen salts, which at first make urine spots shine brightly green but eventually turn these areas brown as they burn the grass.

When you garden organically, you learn to take everything that surrounds you into consideration, with the main goal being to work with natural systems, not against them, and to do so without adding anything that nature didn’t put there in the first place.

Making the Switch to Organic Gardening

Taking your yard natural—learning how to work in harmony with your yard, not against it—can take some time and effort, but the results are definitely worth it. Employing organic practices can reverse the negative effects of the synthetic, petroleum-based pesticides and fertilizers that have been used in and on your yard. It can reduce pollutant levels inside your home. Over time, the money you spend on things like chemicals, water, and waste disposal will go down. And since working with nature is easier than working against it, you’ll save time in the long run as well.

Some of these benefits, such as improvements in indoor pollutant levels, you can realize right away. Others, such as reducing the after-effects of pesticide and fertilizer use, can take months or even years. It all depends on the condition of the soil when you start and how much time and energy you wish to invest.

Organic gardening is more challenging, there’s no doubt about it. There’s an educational component; you have to learn more about how the land under your care fits into the natural community as a whole.

Organic gardening also requires some changes in your attitude and how you think about the green spaces around you. You, and your family, need to be prepared and willing to accept the following:

• More weeds. No lawn or garden is weed-free; it simply isn’t possible. Taking your yard organic doesn’t mean you’ll end up with a weed patch, but you might have to adjust both your tolerance for plants that grow in places you’d rather not see them and your definition of “weeds” in general.

• Lighter-colored grass. Fertilizer—in particular, products with a lot of fast-acting nitrogen—is what pumps up the color in grass blades. Your grass will be just as healthy with natural fertilizers, but because it will take them up more slowly, you won’t get the burst of color that synthetic fertilizers typically deliver.

• More physical labor. Yes, you’ll have to weed more often, and probably spend more time at it as well. You might have to recruit help, especially if time is a premium. But you’ll have a healthier yard as a result … and you (or whoever’s doing the hard labor) will get a good workout to boot.

Finally, you have to be willing to keep going even when it feels like an uphill battle. When your lawn starts looking a little scruffy in the middle of the summer because you’re not applying fast-release synthetic fertilizers and you’re not killing off dandelions and crab grass with synthetic herbicides, it can be tempting to give up.

Creating Your Organic Yard

Great yards don’t happen overnight, and great organic yards definitely don’t happen overnight. If you’re like most gardeners, you’ll create your organic yard in stages, implementing various aspects of organic gardening when and as you can.

With the goal of eventually having a chemical-free yard, or one that’s as close as possible to being so, the following will help you get there.

Size Up Your Site

Take a cold, hard look at your yard. Try to view it as objectively as possible. As you do, ask yourself these questions:

• Is it aesthetically pleasing?

• Does it complement your house well?

• Does it fit well in your neighborhood?

• How do you feel about your yard? Is it a source of pleasure and joy or a necessary evil?

• How do you use your yard? If you have kids and pets, do they enjoy playing on the grass? Do you entertain outdoors? If you don’t, would you like to?

If your yard is like most, you’ll end up with a mixed bag of thoughts and feelings after your assessment. You’ll see some things you like and some things you’d like to change. Maybe your shrubs are old and tired looking. Maybe you have more lawn than you’d like to be taking care of. Maybe you’d like to start growing your own organic vegetables.

You can make changes individually, without really considering the overall impact they’ll have on your yard. Or you can take the organic approach and look at things more globally and more mindfully.

The Dirt

According to a 2004 national survey, only 5 million homeowners considered themselves to be organic gardeners—meaning they use only organic yard practices and products. Another 35 million reported using both toxic and non-toxic materials.

As an example, let’s say you really hate the shrubs that a former owner put in as foundation plantings along the front of your house. They’re overgrown, they’ve always been a little sickly at certain times during the summer, they require a lot more water than the other plants around them, and you just don’t like them in general.

You’d like to see them gone, the sooner the better. Here’s how you’d go about it organically:

• Plant choice. The existing shrubs might not be a good fit for where you live. Climate conditions might have changed, or they simply might have been a bad choice from the get-go. In conventional gardening, it’s not uncommon to push the envelope a bit when it comes to plant selection; experimentation is part of what gardening is all about. Sometimes plants learn to adapt to less-than-ideal situations. Sometimes they don’t. But choosing and using plants that are site-appropriate is a keystone of organic gardening. Plants that are meant to grow where you live are simply better able to deal with the challenges that nature deals out. Grow plants that aren’t well adapted, and they will almost always need more attention and be more susceptible to pests and diseases.

• Soil prep. Poor soil might have been one of the reasons for your shrubs’ health issues. Testing the soil to see what it’s lacking and improving its health with soil amendments based on test results is one option; simply taking out the old soil and replacing it with healthier stuff is another.

• Rethinking the shrub bed. Shrubs, and especially older shrubs in established landscaping, are often planted in narrow beds hard up against building foundations. This definitely cramps their style as they grow and mature, since they end up struggling with other plants in the area—grass, typically—for water and nutrients. Expanding the area they’re planted in would create a healthier environment for them and decrease the amount of grass you have to care for. You could also add other shrubs and plants, which could help cool your house down in summer and attract more wildlife to your yard, helping with pest control.

You’ll find specific advice for working with your lawn and garden areas in Chapters 9 and 10.

Get to Know IPM

Integrated pest management, or IPM, might be an unfamiliar term to you now, but you’ll get to know it well when you garden organically, as it’s one of the key ingredients in this approach. Begun back in the 1960s, IPM takes a “least-risk” approach to preventing pest problems—including weeds, as well as insects and diseases—and to responding to them if and when they arise.

def•i•ni•tion

Integrated pest management (IPM) is a pest-management method that emphasizes ecologically friendly strategies over chemical use.

No matter what kind of pest is at hand—plant, insect, or animal—IPM emphasizes controlling them with means other than chemical use. Chemicals aren’t completely out of the question, but they are the choice of last resort, the approach you take after you’ve tried everything else, not the first line of defense.

Following IPM rather than going gangbusters with chemical applications means spending more time working on your yard, but you’ll get a healthier yard as a result. You still might have to use herbicides, especially if you’re dealing with weeds that are high on the tenacity ladder, but once issues are under control, you can rely on kinder, gentler IPM measures to keep things that way.

IPM is far from new; the Mother Earth News raved about it in the late 1970s as an “honest to God revolution [that] has begun in American agriculture.” Back then the concern was over 1.5 billion pounds of chemical pesticides sold in the United States every year. Today our pesticide use is measured in millions of tons, with current estimates in the range of 2.5 million tons—or 5 billion pounds—applied annually.

Here’s what an IPM approach for organic gardening looks like:

1. Preventing. You’ll work to prevent problems before they erupt by managing and monitoring site and soil health. This means regularly inspecting your yard for problem spots, keeping tabs on what’s going on in your soil by digging into it regularly and testing it from time to time, and anticipating weather-related and seasonal issues by keeping an eye on the sky and the calendar.

Prevention also includes a solid lawn-care program. We’ll look at this in more detail in Chapter 9, but it basically means balancing three key lawn-care practices—mowing, watering, and fertilizing.

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2. Diagnosing. This step includes identifying the cause (or causes) of the problem and deciding when to take action. As an example, maybe it’s been a wetter spring than usual and you’re now seeing what looks like patches of powder on some of your perennials. This is most likely powdery mildew, which is a fungus that sometimes attacks certain plants when moisture levels are high. Simply waiting for things to dry out is usually the best approach, as powdery mildew is more unsightly than anything else. But if things remain wet and your plants are really suffering, you might need to do something about it.

3. Correcting. Correction begins with a critical look at how you’re taking care of your plants, as things like watering too much or too little, or feeding too much or too little, are often what cause issues in gardens and lawns.

Correcting also includes specific controls based on the type of pest, including:

• Physical or mechanical removal. This usually means getting your hands dirty or using your muscles in another way to physically attack the problem. As an example, you might pluck bugs from plants if there aren’t many of them and if your research tells you that’s the safest way to get rid of them. Weeding by hand also falls under this approach.

• Biological control. Biological control involves using naturally occurring organisms to combat pest problems—in other words, you call in the natural enemies of the pests in your yard to control them. Gardening organically naturally attracts some great pest-busters, such as ladybugs and birds. One of the best biological controls is healthy soil, which you’ll read more about in Chapters 9 and 10.

◆ Biological (natural) pesticides. Surprised to see pesticides on the list? Don’t be. Products like herbicidal soaps and corn gluten meal have proven effective on some weeds and in some situations. Even more effective are pesticides derived from plants and minerals. They’re more toxic, which means you’ll want to limit their use, but they break down more rapidly than many synthetic pesticides and are safer to use when applied correctly.

For organic gardening, IPM stops here. In conventional gardening, your next step would be synthetic pesticide application.

Pump Up Your Soil

Organic gardening simply isn’t possible without great soil, as soil is the basis for everything that happens in your yard. You’ll create great soil and keep it happy by amending it, and you’ll amend it with local resources and products whenever necessary. As you’ll see in Chapter 11, you and your family can be one of the best local resources for these amendments that you could ever ask for.

The Least You Need to Know

• The majority of gardeners do not follow organic practices in their yards.

• When you garden organically, you work with natural systems, not against them.

• Gardening organically might mean accepting more weeds in your yard than you’d like, but your lawn and garden will be healthier and you’ll be doing your part to keep your family’s exposure to toxic chemicals down.

• Integrated pest management (IPM), which emphasizes natural pest control, is the preferred approach in organic gardening.

Chapter 9

The Grass Is Greener

In This Chapter

• The world at your feet

• The lowdown on dirt

• Giving your lawn a new lease on life

• Best fertilizer choices

• Rounding up weeds

Bright green, weed-free, and well groomed—this is what’s almost universally considered to be the perfect lawn.

Most lawns that fit this description come about thanks to synthetic products—fertilizers and weed killers. But beautiful lawns can also be cultivated organically.

When you take care of your lawn naturally, you’re not only creating a better environment for yourself, your kids, your pets, and for the world around you; you are also creating a lawn that may require much less time and money to take care of. Maybe not right away, but it’s definitely possible in the long run.

Beginning at Root Level

A great organic lawn begins at root level with great soil. Great soil means soil that’s teeming with life, with the organisms and microorganisms—earthworms, fungi, bacteria, and whatnot—that support the plants that grow in it. These tiny organisms provide this support by breaking down organic materials—things like grass cuttings, leaf particles, and other natural matter—into minerals that the grass plants use to make carbohydrates and sugars during photosynthesis, and by helping plants build their natural defenses against insect and disease invaders.

The Dirt

Plants don’t digest substances internally—digestion takes place externally, in the soil system, which is why healthy soil is so important.

Great soil also has good texture and structure. While these two factors might seem similar, they’re not.

All soil contains the following substances, in varying proportions:

• Organic matter—both alive and dead.

• Water

• Dissolved or suspended nutrients

• Air

• Rock particles in various sizes, ranging from small stones to tiny particles of clay, sand, and silt

Rock particles are what give soil its texture. You can get an idea of your soil’s texture by rubbing some of it between your hands. Make sure it’s moist when you do this—dry dirt won’t tell you much. Sandy soil will feel gritty and rough. If it feels smooth, maybe even oily, you’ve got soil with a fair amount of silt and/or clay.

Soil structure refers to the overall composition of the soil—the clumps of soil or aggregates, in soil technology terms, which result when the substances that give soil its texture come together. Depending on soil texture and other factors, soil can range from being loose and porous to hard as a rock.

Organic matter plays a big role in soil structure, but other factors affect it, too. If your kids regularly play in one part of your yard, or your dog likes to run along your fence line, the grass probably doesn’t grow as well in these areas. That’s because the soil has been compressed; it has the same texture as soil in other parts of your yard, but its structure is different.

Soil texture and structure are what determine how well soil can take up, hold, and release air, water, and nutrients and, in turn, how well soil can support the plants that grow in it. Soil that contains too much clay is called heavy soil, and it is exactly that—heavy. It’s also dense, so much so that water and air have a hard time penetrating it. So do grass roots.

Heavy soil also drains slowly and contains very little air. It’s a poor base for any kind of plant—difficult to root into, difficult to draw nutrients out of.

Toxic

Driving a car or operating heavy machinery on your lawn can also result in changes in soil structure. Applying too much fertilizer, even if it’s natural fertilizer, is another threat to soil structure because it can decrease organic matter levels.

Soil that contains too much sand is called light soil. This soil type is heavy soil’s direct opposite: it’s easily penetrated but it doesn’t hold water or nutrients well. Plant roots can grow into it easily but there’s little to sustain them when they do.

Medium-textured soil, which contains a good balance of clay, silt, and sand, is the ideal base for grass because it’s light enough for root penetration but heavy enough to hold nutrients and water in place. Loam is the term often used to describe this type of soil.

You can get an idea of the texture and structure of the soil beneath your grass by getting out a trowel or shovel and digging up a small section of turf—say a foot square. If possible, try to dig down at least 7 inches; if you can, go down about a foot. Here’s what you should see, from top to bottom:

• A layer of organic material at and just above the soil surface. This is thatch, which you’ll learn more about in a little bit, and it protects the base of the grass plants. As this layer breaks down, it also feeds the soil beneath. You shouldn’t see more than about half an inch of it.

• More organic material, this time mixed with soil, just under the surface.

• Soil, roots, and living things. Ideally, you’ll see dark brown, crumbly earth with roots extending a good distance through it. If roots are short and shallow, the soil is probably too heavy. If the soil is light colored and doesn’t hold together well, there’s probably a good deal of sand in it.

You can’t see organic microbes, but you should see worms. If you don’t, your soil definitely needs more organic matter.

If this isn’t what you see in your soil sample, don’t throw in the trowel just yet. Even lousy soil can be turned into great soil, and, in turn, a great lawn. It will take time and effort, but it can be done.

That said, starting over might be a viable option—and a good choice—if one or more of the following factors are present:

• The grass is thin, the ground is hard, and there are more weeds than grass.

• You don’t like the kind of grass you’re growing or it’s not well suited to your climate.

• You want to replace your grass with something else, say a grass/clover mixture, a wildflower meadow, or an alternative ground cover.

Starting from scratch means exactly this—you do away with whatever’s on top of your soil and start over again. This can give you an organic lawn in a hurry and with no questions asked, as it enables you to do things correctly from the get-go, with great soil and great grass (or something else) to match. However, it’s definitely the most radical approach to establishing an organic lawn, and it’s the most costly.

You can do a complete lawn overhaul on your own if you have the tools and the time, and if a good amount of physical labor doesn’t daunt you. However, most homeowners find it easier to call in the experts, and it’s definitely a good idea to do so if you’re thinking about making substantial changes to your yard—such as improving the slope around your house or improving drainage issues.

It’s Organic

If you’re starting a lawn from scratch, go organic right away. For optimum soil health, work compost into the topsoil before putting grass or grass alternatives down. Choose native plants or plants that are well adapted to the conditions where you live. Choose drought-tolerant or low-water-use plants to reduce watering needs. Consider lower-maintenance turfgrasses, grassy meadows, and vegetation beds instead of large lawns. Treat grass as an accent, not as the focal point of your yard. If you hire a landscaper, look for one who takes a biodynamic design approach and who uses organic products when preparing the site and planting.

Pumping New Life into Old Soil

If you’re going to work with what you’ve got, your first goal in taking your lawn organic is bringing your soil up to snuff—in other words, doing what’s necessary to turn it into great soil, soil that can sustain both itself and the plants growing in it. This won’t happen overnight—in fact, it can take several years, depending on what you’re starting with.

If your approach to taking care of your lawn up to now has basically been mowing and watering and little else, you actually might have a healthier lawn than one that’s been doctored up with synthetic fertilizers and herbicides. It might not look as good as you’d like, the grass might be thinner than you’d like, and there might be more weeds dotting the landscape than you’d like, but it’s healthier because there are microorganisms in the soil beneath it. There might not be as many of them as there should be, but at least they’re there; they haven’t been killed off by chemicals that can make grass look great but are lethal to the world beneath the surface.

If your lawn-care approach has included the use of synthetic chemicals, applied by you or someone else, reinvigorating your soil will take longer, but you won’t have to wait years to see the benefits. You’ll realize some improvement right away and you’ll see progress continue on a steady upward path from there as the years go by and you stick with the program.

You can start your soil rejuvenation program at any point, but spring is probably the best time since that’s when most outdoor activities ramp up in general. Before you start, it’s a good idea to decide how much of the work you personally want to do. All of the following steps are definitely within the realm of reason for most people, but if time is short or you simply don’t like chores like pulling weeds or spreading fertilizer, you’ll have to find someone to do these tasks for you.

It’s Organic

If you’re not a hands-on person for whatever reason—lack of desire, interest, time—you’ll want to find a lawn-care company that offers organically based services. When you do, don’t just take their word for it. Ask for references and ask which products they use.

Rake Up

If your lawn is like most, there’s probably a layer of thatch sitting on the surface. Some thatch is a good thing, as it helps provide nutrients, conserves moisture, and shades and protects the base of the grass plants—the crown—which is where both blades and roots grow from. However, too much thatch prevents water and nutrients from entering the soil as they should; if they sit at the surface or run off it, they’ll simply go to waste.

def•i•ni•tion

Thatch is the organic matter that accumulates on top of the soil.

Thatch thickness will vary somewhat depending on the type of grass you’re growing, but it shouldn’t ever go beyond about a half inch. Anything over this should be removed.

If the thatch layer isn’t too thick, you should be able to take away what should go by raking your lawn with a stiff lawn rake. If raking doesn’t quite cut it, you can use a special tool called a dethatching or cavex rake, which has bladelike tines that cut through the thatch. If the thatch is thicker than one inch or if you have a large lawn, consider renting a power rake or vertical mower. If you’ve never run either of these machines, seriously consider hiring someone to do it for you. They’re heavy and they’re not easy to handle.

Punch Down

Most lawns also suffer from some degree of soil compaction. Compacted soil presents the same problem as thatch does—it prevents water and nutrients from entering the soil as they should.

Soil compaction is treated by aeration—punching lots of small holes in the ground. Again, this is something you can do yourself—aerators are available for rent at many hardware stores and lawn-care centers. Or simply hire someone to do it for you. If you have a choice, opt for a core aerator over a solid-tine aerator. Both will break up soil compaction, but core aerators, since they literally pull cores or plugs out of the ground, do a better job of loosening up soil and improving the nutrient flow to it.

Aeration also works well on thatch; the improved air flow will help it break down faster. Many lawn-care experts prefer it to dethatching, as it doesn’t tear up turf as much.

The Dirt

You won’t have to dethatch every year, and possibly not at all once you really get your organic lawn-care program going, so it’s not worth buying the equipment for doing it if you don’t already have it. Aeration also isn’t something you have to do every year, but it’s a good idea if your soil tends to be heavy and you want to fast-track your soil health program. Good aeration equipment is expensive, however, and the number of times you’ll use it in a lifetime probably won’t offset the cost of buying, so you’re better off renting when you need it.

Feed the Soil

Compost is the magic ingredient for soil health (you’ll learn how to make your own in Chapter 11). To get it down to soil level where it can begin its magic by restoring microorganisms to the soil, you’ll topdress your grass at least once a year.

If your lawn is fairly small, say less than 2,000 square feet, you can load up a wheelbarrow or fill a trash bag with compost and drop small piles of it as you walk along. Then get out your rake and distribute it evenly across the grass. Aim for a layer of about one quarter to three eighths of an inch. For larger areas, or if you don’t feel like raking, you can use a spreader.

Compost tea is another great way to give your soil a nutrient boost. You’ll find the recipe for it in Chapter 11. Plan on applying it about three times a year, during the growing season.

def•i•ni•tion

Topdressing is applying a thin layer of soil or compost to lawns or garden beds.

Giving Your Lawn a Facelift

The following steps will help your lawn look good—maybe even great—while all the important stuff is happening underground. And they’ll contribute to the ongoing good health of your soil in their own way. What more could you ask for?

Pump Up the Volume

If you want lush, weed-free grass and you want it fast, increasing the density of the grass plants growing in your lawn is one of the best ways to get there. Weed seeds don’t have a chance when grass is thick and healthy, since the roots and the leaf canopy overhead literally squeeze them out.

Fall is traditional overseeding time if you’re growing cool-season grasses (spring is for warm-season grasses) because the conditions are most favorable, but you can overseed almost any time of the year (except the dead of winter, of course).

def•i•ni•tion

Cool-season grasses are grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and perennial fescues that are typically grown in cooler climates. Warm-season grasses are grasses like Bermuda grass, St. Augustine grass, and Bahia grass that grow in warmer climates.

For the best results:

• Choose a seed mix that matches the blend of grasses already growing in your lawn. Don’t use a mix that’s formulated for grass growing in the sun if your yard runs more to the shade. (If you have a lot of shady spots or your yard is fairly sun deprived overall, your grass probably isn’t growing all that well and it won’t matter what you do, as grass needs a fair amount of sun to thrive. Consider something else in its place, such as a shade-loving ground cover.)

• Prepare your lawn for the seed by cutting it fairly short—about 2 inches or so will give the seeds the sunlight they’ll need for germination.

• Use a drop or rotary spreader (hand spreaders are okay, too, but you’ll get better results with a larger spreader, especially if you have a good deal of ground to cover) and spread the seed at a rate of about 3 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Toxic

If you’ve applied corn gluten meal or any other pre-emergence weed killer to your lawn, hold off for at least 30 days before overseeding. Grass seeds are the same as weed seeds and pre-emergence weed killers don’t discriminate; anything you apply to kill weed seeds will kill all seeds.

You can give the new seed a bit of a nutritional boost and protect it at the same time by topdressing it with a very light layer of compost after you put it down. Make sure you apply a very thin layer—too much compost will prevent sunlight from reaching the seeds and diminish the germination rate.

Be sure to keep the seeds moist after putting them down. They’ll stop growing if they dry out and they won’t start again no matter what you do, because seeds only contain enough food to support one germination. If the process is interrupted before they develop blades and roots, you’ll have to start over again.

Whack the Weeds

Weeds are largely the result of not taking care of your lawn properly, so when you start doing things right their levels should diminish a bit on their own. But they won’t entirely go away. Weeds are always present in lawns, and weed seeds are always present in the soil—the top layer of soil can house up to 40 million weed seeds. What’s more, they can remain viable in the soil for as long as 30 years and even longer in some cases.

Weeds always seem like a bigger issue when you’re right on top of them. For a clearer perspective on your weeds, spend some time examining your lawn from the curb, the same vantage point that most people use. If your lawn is home to an average amount of weeds, you shouldn’t have to do more than the following to control them:

• Mow at the right height. Keeping your grass at the high end of its length range—usually around 3 inches or so—will go a long way toward keeping weeds under control. According to some experts, this technique is as effective as using herbicides, if not more so.

• Pluck and pull. Many weeds can be controlled by hand, but you have to stay on top of them. Candidates for this approach include crab grass, dallis grass, oxalis, spurge, broadleaf plantain, and ground ivy. Fibrous, deep-rooted weeds like dandelions are not a good candidate for pulling, as they’ll keep coming up if you don’t get all of their roots out. But you can dig them up with a dandelion tool.

• Apply corn gluten meal. Corn gluten meal is effective on many types of weed seeds and it boosts turf nutrition as well.

• Spot-treat with herbicidal soap. Herbicidal soaps kill plants by burning their leaves. They’re good for spot treating, but be careful with them, as they will kill anything they come into contact with. They’re not as effective on perennial weeds, but they will suppress them with repeated application.

Weed control should take place as long as grass is actively growing. Try to remove any weeds before they go to seed.

It’s Organic

Clover is often considered a weed but it’s actually one of the most beneficial plants you could ask for in a yard. Turfgrass enthusiasts detest it because its round leaves disrupt the uniform look of well-groomed lawns, and it flowers, which again disrupts uniform fields of green. It can also make big brown patches in your lawn during drought conditions and in the early fall when it goes dormant. But clover adds nitrogen to the soil, which is a good thing; nitrogen is one of the three essential elements for plant health. So if you find clover in your yard, think twice before pulling it all out or dousing it with chemicals.

Feed the Grass

Plants produce their own food; this is what photosynthesis is all about. When you feed them, you’re giving them more of what they need to make their food—in other words, you’re giving them the ingredients for their meals, but they do the cooking.

Like people and animals, plants need a variety of nutrients for optimal health—17 of them, in fact. They get most of what they need from healthy soil, which is why organic gardening so emphasizes soil health. But they need larger doses of three main nutrients—nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium—than what they can typically draw from the soil.

The best way to gauge your lawn’s nutritional needs is by doing a soil test. This is different from gauging texture and structure, as it yields a scientific assessment of the soil’s chemical composition, not its physical composition.

There are two basic types of soil chemistry tests—ones you can do yourself and ones you can’t. Do-it-yourself tests are available at most lawn and garden stores. They’ll tell you the pH level in your soil, but they typically don’t go much beyond this. pH levels are good to know, but unless they’re really out of whack they typically aren’t much of a concern, so it’s best to skip these kinds of tests unless they’re all that’s available.

More complex tests measure pH levels and the levels of the most important plant nutrients—nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium—plus two others—calcium and magnesium. Check with your county extension agency to see if they offer tests like these. Many do. A local nursery might also be able to refer you to a company that does them.

It’s Organic

Extension agencies—also known as cooperative agencies or services—are usually run through state universities. If you’re looking for one in your area, check your phone book’s government listings for the county you live in or do an Internet search on your county’s name and ”extension agency.”

When you receive your test kit, simply follow the instructions, send off the soil samples, and wait for the results. When you get them back, follow them. They’ll tell you what your lawn needs.

Nitrogen is typically the nutrient that’s applied in the largest amount because it’s what grass requires the most of. Simply leaving grass clippings on your lawn after mowing can provide up to 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, which is close to if not all the nitrogen your grass should need. Nitrogen needs can vary quite a bit, but as a rule lawns require between 3 and 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet every year.

Regular applications of compost and compost tea should satisfy most of the rest of what your grass needs, but depending on your soil test results you might need to supplement these nitrogen doses with fertilizer.

Organic fertilizers can be plant based, animal based, or mineral based. They differ from synthetic fertilizers as they need soil microorganisms to break them down. As a result, they also work more slowly.

The Dirt

If you need to buy fertilizer, read labels carefully. Products labeled ”organic based” can contain synthetic ingredients.

Water It Right

Two words—infrequently and deeply—are what you want to remember when it comes to watering. Infrequently because most plants do better when the soil dries out to a certain extent between waterings, and because wet soil can cause pest problems and plant diseases. Deeply because doing so builds deeper, healthier root systems, since the roots have to dig down for the moisture rather than taking it up at the soil surface. (This is another reason why maintaining an appropriate thatch level is so important; if there’s too much thatch at the soil surface, it will collect both water and grass roots.)

The exact amount of water your lawn needs depends on the kind of grass you’re growing, the type of soil under the grass, atmospheric conditions, the time of year, and so on. As a general rule, about an inch every week—applied by you or by Mother Nature—is enough to keep an established lawn looking green and healthy.

You can see if you’re getting enough water down deep by checking the root zone—the area in which the roots are growing. Simply sink a shovel or spade into the soil after you’ve watered and pull back a spot of turf, enough so that you can examine what’s going on underneath the grass. Ideally, you’ll see about 3 to 6 inches of roots extending into the ground, and, hopefully, you’ll observe evidence of water going down that deep as well.

You can check water penetration during the growing season by sticking a long screwdriver or something similar into the turf after watering; much like testing a cake when baking, if the screwdriver comes back moist and a little crummy when you pull it out, moisture levels are probably good. If it comes back dry and relatively clean, you’ll want to take a closer look at your watering practices.

If possible, water early in the morning. Doing so reduces moisture loss from evaporation and will help prevent fungal diseases.

Mow It Right

Mowing heights also vary depending on the type of grass, but in general, longer is better. For cool-season grasses (bluegrass, ryegrass, fescues, etc.), plan on keeping them at about 3 inches in length. Don’t let your grass get too long; you never want to cut off more than one third of the blade at any time.

Other good mowing practices:

• Keep mower blades sharp, as dull blades will tear rather than cut grass, making it more susceptible to diseases. Dull blades also dry out the grass.

• Change your mowing patterns from time to time. Mowing in the same direction every time can lead to soil compaction.

• Leave the clippings on your lawn. As they decompose, they’ll add organic matter and nitrogen to your lawn.

Taking your lawn organic doesn’t necessarily mean ditching fossil-fuel-driven lawn implements, but continuing their use will be somewhat at cross purposes with what you’re working toward. Lawnmowers and other gas-powered lawn tools emit several types of pollutants, including ozone precursors, carbon dioxide, and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons—the last is classified as a probable carcinogen by the CDC. Consider exchanging gas-powered devices for ones powered with electricity or powered by you.

The Dirt

According to a Swedish study conducted in 2001, the air pollution generated by cutting grass for one hour with a gasoline-powered lawnmower is nearly equal to what you’d create if you drove your car for 100 miles. Multiply this by the estimated 54 million Americans who mow their lawns every week with gas-powered mowers, and you’ll see how gas-powered mowers make a significant—and negative—impact on the world around us.

If you want to or have to keep your gas-powered equipment, reduce emissions by maintaining it properly. Change the oil and clean or replace air filters regularly. If you’re using two-stroke equipment, use the correct fuel/oil mix.

It’s Organic

Ready to get rid of your old gas-powered lawnmower for good? Don’t just junk it—see if your city or county offers central collection of old lawnmowers for recycling.

The Lawn Goodbye

Maybe you’re not in love with your lawn, or maybe you just want less of it. Here are some alternative approaches to those swaths of green that you might consider:

• Plant lower-maintenance, slower-growing turfgrasses. They won’t ever give you the finely manicured look of traditional turfgrasses, but they’ll make up for it by requiring much less water and maintenance. Some grow so slowly that they almost never need mowing—as little as once or twice per season, or, if you really like the natural look, not at all.

• Plant grass/flower seed mixes. They’re also slower growing and they require less mowing.

• Decrease your lawn area by adding a patio or a deck, or adding or increasing the size of garden beds. Fill them with a variety of plants—trees, shrubs, perennials, bulbs—for added beauty and to attract a range of wildlife to your yard (also a good way to boost your yard’s biodiversity).

• Plant lower-maintenance ground covers. This is an especially good solution for areas where grass struggles to grow, such as shady spots and slopes. Options for shady spots include periwinkle or vinca vine, some ivies, wild ginger, bishop’s weed, and redwood sorrel. For slopes, consider creeping potentilla, snow-in-summer, snow-on-the-mountain, creeping phlox, and prostrate speedwell.

Xeriscaping—switching out moisture-hungry grass for drought-tolerant plants and materials—is another good lawn alternative. It’s more common in the desert Southwest where water is at a premium, but it can be done virtually anywhere, as it also emphasizes the use of native plants.

Take Action

Show your commitment to going chemical-free on your lawn by signing the SafeLawns Million Acre Challenge at www.SafeLawns.org. There are more than 40 million acres of turf in the United States; SafeLawns is committed to converting one million of them to eco-friendly yards by 2010 by spreading the word on the benefits of environmentally responsible lawn care and gardening. When you sign the SafeLawns Million Acre Challenge pledge, you’re showing your commitment to caring for your lawn in an eco-friendly way by using earth-friendly natural fertilizers and pesticides instead of synthetics mowing with a push and/or electric mower, and being responsible about watering and planting.

The Least You Need to Know

• Great organic lawns begin with healthy soil.

• Soil texture and structure are what determine how well soil can take up, hold, and release air, water, and nutrients and, in turn, how well it can support the plants that grow in it.

• If your approach to taking care of your lawn up to now has basically been mowing and watering and little else, you actually might have a fairly healthy lawn.

• Compost is the magic ingredient for soil health.

Chapter 10

The Organic Garden

In This Chapter

• Planning your plot

• Pairing up plants

• Prepping the soil

• Raising the beds

• Containing your garden

For many people, the garden is where organic living starts and where the reasons for going organic hit home the hardest. When you hold a synthetic fertilizer or herbicide in hand as you get ready to spray it on the vegetables or flowers you’re growing, you realize that the same chemicals you’re using outside will end up in your home and inside of you and your family. Not exactly an appetizing thought.

Whether you grow perennial and annual flowers, vegetables and fruit, or a combination of all the above, going organic in your garden furthers your commitment to a healthier environment for your family and for the world around you. Growing organic fruit and vegetables is also a great way to save money and have a steady supply of organic produce at hand.

You can grow an organic garden even if you’re short on space. If you have a balcony, even an outdoor ledge, you can garden organically.

If you’re going organic with your lawn, it only follows that you’d want to do the same thing in your garden.

At Ground Level

Organic gardening takes the same commitment as organic lawn care does—no synthetic herbicide or pesticide use, supplementation and pest control delivered naturally using organic products, and sustaining the soil by putting back what you take out of it.

This approach can be a little trickier in the garden, though, especially when it comes to pest control. A well-cared-for organic lawn typically doesn’t have many pest control issues, but gardens can, especially vegetable gardens, as there are plenty of animals that will find the good things you’re growing as tasty as you do. This is where integrated pest management (IPM) really comes into play (see Chapter 8 for more on this), but organic gardeners also have another important ally to call on that you’ll learn about later in this chapter.

If you have to pick an entry point into organic living, organic gardening might be the best, as it presents so many options. You can do a little or a lot, whatever suits you. Short on time and/or money? Put a couple of your favorite vegetables in some clay pots. Have the time, the money, and the space? A large kitchen garden, stocked with all your family’s favorite veggies, herbs, and fruit, might be the way to go.

It’s Organic

Community gardening is an option if you want to grow some of your own vegetables, herbs, fruit, and flowers but you can’t do it at home for whatever reason. It’s also a nice opportunity to connect with the outdoors and with neighbors who have similar interests, as well as a great way to learn about gardening if you’re new to it. How to find a community garden? Do an Internet search, and also try www.communitygarden.org, the online home of the American Community Gardening Association. There’s a searchable database by zip code, city, and state.

In their broadest sense, the terms “organic garden” and “organic gardening” describe areas in a yard where grass isn’t planted but other things are. These areas can contain vegetables, fruit, annual flowers, perennial flowers, shrubs, and trees, one or more or all, in various combinations. A truly organic space should contain all of these elements. For this chapter, however, we’ll use these terms to discuss growing things to eat.

The Dirt

In 2007, 22 percent of all American households—roughly 25 million—had vegetable gardens, according to the National Gardening Association. We spent $1.42 billion on plants and seeds, an average of $58 a household.

Getting Your Garden Going

Good gardens begin with good plans, and you’ll want to start your organic garden off right with careful planning. If you already have an established garden plot, your planning process will probably focus more along the lines of what you need to do with your soil and what you want to plant. If you’re starting from square one—no established garden—you’ll need to consider the following:

• Your overall goal. What do you want to accomplish with your garden? Do you want to grow vegetables? Fruit? Both? Do you want to augment an already-existing landscape by adding to current beds or creating new ones?

• The lay of the land. Garden areas should work in harmony with your yard. If you haven’t already done so, now’s the time to make a sketch of your yard. It doesn’t have to be fancy, it doesn’t even have to be to scale, but it should show the location and relative size of existing elements, including property lines, fences, trees, shrubs, structures, pathways, etc.

• Your yard’s ecosystem. Every yard has its own mini-environment—its own ecosystem—that will factor into how well things will grow in it. Spend some time observing what goes on in yours. Consider how the light moves across it, where the sunny spots and the shady spots are, how the wind moves through it, if there are wet spots and dry spots, etc. In an organically planned garden, you want to work with all of these elements, not against them. In other words, you’ll want to put them to work for you.

Studying other yards that you like and that have elements similar to yours can be extremely helpful, especially when you’re first starting out. There’s always much to be learned by walking in the footsteps of those who have gone before you.

Once you have a good idea of what you have and what you want to do with it, it’s time to decide what you want to grow. The amount of space you have to work with and your yard’s ecosystem will both play key roles in this process. Other factors to consider include:

• What your family likes to eat. There’s no sense in growing veggies the kids simply won’t touch.

• What’s easily available and affordable locally. Farmers’ markets and other local sources for organics are often heavy on the basics—tomatoes, onions, potatoes, beans, etc.—as supply and demand for these items are usually fairly steady and consistent. If they’re abundant in your area, you might want to focus on less available choices.

• What you can easily preserve/store. Putting up the bounty from gardens used to occupy people for weeks at a time at the end of growing seasons. These days most people don’t have the time or the inclination, but there’s usually produce to deal with at the end of the summer. Did you know tomatoes can be frozen whole? Choose varieties that lend themselves well to this—paste tomatoes are the top choice, but any fleshy tomato will work—and you’ll have a quick and easy use for your end-of-season harvest. Many other vegetables also lend themselves to the quick and easy approach, including peppers, chiles, cucumbers, garlic, mushrooms, and shallots.

• What you can easily grow. If you’re new to vegetable gardening, stick to the basics—tomatoes, peppers (hot or mild), squash, beans, corn—they’re all good choices for novice gardeners.

• What you can trade with others. Growing crops that complement what others have in their gardens is a great way to expand the selection of organics at hand.

• Plants that fit your growing area. If you’re confined to containers, you’ll want to choose more compact varieties—even the smallest corn varieties need barrel-sized containers to do well.

The Dirt

The information on seed packets will give you a good idea of how much distance you need to leave between seeds and rows.

When you’ve figured out what you want to grow, sketch out your garden plot. Now’s the time to draw it to scale; doing so will make it easier to determine exactly where everything will go and if you have the space to grow everything you want.

Getting Cozy with Companion Planting

Companion planting is a key element of many successful organic gardening programs. It’s basically what the name suggests—you place plants in your garden based on what they can do for each other. Pairings often couple plants with contrasting properties, but not always, and they’re not limited to vegetables—in fact, some of the most successful couplings link flowers and vegetables or herbs and vegetables.

Some of the pairing benefits are obvious—it simply makes sense to do things like pair vines with plants that grow upright—but little is known about most of them beyond the fact that they work.

def•i•ni•tion

Companion planting takes advantage of various plant attributes, known and unknown, to enhance quality and yield.

Companion planting can be a little tricky, which is why some gardeners avoid it. You can’t just plunk some plants into a bed and call it good. You have to be more careful when cultivating and harvesting as well. But the technique can definitely pay off. Not only does companion planting unleash the various attributes of plants so they can do everything they’re born to do, it allows you to grow more in a specific area, it protects the soil from wind and rain erosion, and it improves soil health.

Plants can be paired in a variety of ways, including:

• Sun loving and shade loving. Plants that need partial shade often grow best when shaded by larger plants or bushes. As an example, tall-growing annual flowers such as zinnias, which love the sun, can provide the partial shade that lettuce prefers.

• Deep roots and shallow roots. Pair up deep-rooted carrots and shallow-rooted onions and you can grow more of each.

• Slow growing and fast growing. Fast-growing plants can protect slower growers from insect pests.

• Heavy feeders and light feeders. This means the amount of water and fertilizer plants need.

• Early flowering and late flowering. Plants that flower early can attract insect pests and parasites away from their intended targets. This also works with plants that aren’t allowed to flower.

• Aromatic and non-aromatic. Aromatic plants often contain a substance that repels or attracts pests and can protect non-aromatic plants.

Over the years, organic gardeners (and scientific studies) have uncovered some great pairings based on these aspects, including:

• Potatoes and horseradish. A classic combination, horseradish provides general protection against various pests, especially potato bugs.

• Roses and chives. Another classic combination; garlic is also said to work well with roses.

• Nasturtiums and cucumbers. Nasturtiums will guard against cucumber beetles and provide shelter for predatory insects like spiders and ground beetles. They also work well with pumpkins.

• Cabbage and dill. Dill attracts tiny beneficial wasps that can control cabbage-worms and other cabbage-loving pests.

• Lettuce and tall flowers. Nicotiana (flowering tobacco) can give lettuce the light shade it grows best in. It also repels whiteflies.

• Corn and beans. Plant them together so the corn can support the beans as they climb. As mentioned, beans will keep corn healthy by attracting beneficial insects that prey on corn pests.

• Mums and strawberries. Mums repel many insects—they’re a good companion for most crops.

• Basil and tomatoes or asparagus. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes and attracts bees. It also improves the flavor of tomatoes.

• Radishes and spinach. Radishes will attract leaf-eating insects away from spinach.

• Climbing beans, corn, and squash. Again, the exact way in which they complement each other isn’t known, but they love one another when planted together. Beans are also known to attract insects like leaf beetles that eat corn pests.

• Tomatoes and cabbages. Tomatoes repel diamondback moth caterpillars, noted for their love of cabbage leaves.

An easy, basic approach to companion planting is simply to intermix flowers and vegetables in the same bed; they’re generally a good combination and they’ll create a diverse environment that will attract many different beneficial insects to your garden. You’ll find lots of information on companion planting via an Internet search. A good, comprehensive source for plant pairings is Golden Harvest Organics, at www.ghorganics.com.

Sourcing Seeds and Seedlings

Organic gardening begins with organic seeds and seedlings. At one time somewhat difficult to come by, seeds and seedlings are becoming a bit more common as more gardeners embrace organic principles.

Check local lawn and garden centers to see what they carry. Organic Gardening online (www.organicgardening.com) offers an extensive list of sources for both seeds and seedlings. Other companies worth checking out (and with good online and print catalogs for researching and dreaming during the winter) are:

• Seeds of Change (www.seedsofchange.com). A well-established company with a good selection of seeds and seedlings from proven plants.

• The Natural Gardening Company (www.naturalgardening.com). The nation’s oldest certified organic nursery.

• Local Harvest (www.localharvest.org). A clearinghouse for local sources of organic food. It also has a good selection of organic seeds, but be sure to read the descriptions as not everything is organic here.

Preparing the Beds

Like great lawns, great gardens begin with good soil. Gardeners often say that they don’t grow plants, they grow soil. Nothing could be truer. If your soil is healthy, plants are healthy. If your soil isn’t healthy, you can still have healthy plants, relatively speaking, but you’ll have to work a lot harder to get them there and keep them there.

Some people feel that testing garden soil isn’t that important, especially in small beds, since you can simply remove existing soil and replace it with compost-enriched topsoil if there are any concerns. However, soil testing is usually recommended for larger beds, as replacing the soil in them can be expensive. It also makes sense for older beds and especially beds that haven’t been managed organically before. As with lawns, you can go the do-it-yourself approach or send your soil out for testing.

def•i•ni•tion

Raised beds are gardening areas higher than ground level.

Most plants benefit from good drainage, and building raised beds is usually the best way to provide it. This isn’t a must; if your soil drains well you can dig your plants right into the ground. But raised beds also offer other benefits—you don’t have to bend down as far to work on them and they protect the soil from wind and water erosion.

Raised beds don’t have to be fancy—a simple box works just fine. Untreated wood won’t last as long as treated wood does but it also won’t leach chemicals into the soil. Cement blocks, the kind used for building garden walls, are another option, but you can build your box out of anything that will keep the soil in place so that it doesn’t wash away when water hits it.

It’s Organic

Don’t want to build or don’t have the time to build a raised bed from scratch? Kits are available in various sizes, shapes and materials. Raised-garden-beds. com (www.raised-garden-beds.com) offers beds made from red cedar, which is naturally resistant to rot and insects, and contains no chemicals that might leach out. Other places to look are Gardener’s Supply Company (www.gardeners.com) and Green Culture (www.composters.com).

When designing your beds, raised or not, don’t forget to put in some walkways between the rows of plants. Doing so will make it much easier to move between them for weeding and harvesting. Many people use wood planks for these; pavers and bricks are other possible choices.

Whether you’re working with a raised bed or an in-ground plot, you’ll need to prepare the soil for planting. Mix it up well by tilling and adding compost. You’ll want to turn the top 8 to 12 inches of soil using a rotary tiller (widely available to rent). Pick out any rocks larger than a marble or so, and then spread a good layer of compost over the area—3 inches is a good depth. Get out the tiller and mix everything up again, and then water things down lightly. Let the soil settle for a few days, and then plant away.

Gardening in Containers

There are some advantages to container gardening; you can move containers around to take advantage of changing environmental conditions (you can buy dollies for big pots), and they’re a great way to experiment with plants on a small scale.

You can have a great organic garden even if space is limited, as long as you follow a few rules for gardening in contained areas:

• Pick container-friendly plants. Herbs are natural choices as they do well in small areas. Other good choices are tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, dwarf cabbage, loose-leaf lettuce, beans, radishes, summer squash, and corn. Dwarf citrus are also possible container choices, as are dwarf apples.

• Pick containers that are friendly to plants. Just about any container will work—don’t be afraid to get creative with this. But avoid containers made from materials that could leach into the soil, such as chemically treated wood. Don’t forget hanging baskets; wire baskets are great for growing herbs like sage and peppermint, which can overrun garden beds if not contained. And don’t overlook things like troughs and trays—many veggies only need about 6 inches of soil to grow in, and shallow containers will work just fine for things like radishes, lettuce, peppers, and spinach.

• Provide adequate drainage. Many containers, even ones that come with drainage holes, aren’t porous enough. Be prepared to punch some holes of your own with a screwdriver or drill to save your plants from drowning in pent-up water.

• Protect the surface. Container plants tend to dry out faster. You’ll want to protect them with mulch.

Pest control tends to be more of an issue in containers because bugs love the moister conditions often found in and around containers. You’ll want to keep a good organic pest control spray handy. Choices here include:

• Orange Guard, which works well on many flying and crawling insects.

• SharpShooter, effective on aphids, adult whiteflies, earwigs, bean beetles, and others.

• Green Light’s Organic Lawn and Garden Spray, another good all-around choice that works on a variety of common yard and garden pests.

Orange Guard and SharpShooter are citrus based; Green Light’s Organic Lawn and Garden Spray is concocted from clove oil, sesame oil, and thyme oil.

Keeping Things Growing

The compost you dug into your soil prior to planting will give your plants most of what they’ll need through the growing season. Compost tea can provide the rest; check Chapter 11 for a recipe to make it. You’ll want to apply it several times during the growing season.

Mulching your beds will also help keep your plants happy by conserving water, preventing weeds, and feeding the soil. Use 1 to 3 inches of mulch—leaves, compost, or grass clippings work well in flower and vegetable beds. Spread it around the plants, keeping it about an inch away from the stems.

Keeping Pests at Bay

Companion planting will help fight off insects and other predators, but in and of itself it’s typically not enough. Depending on what you’re battling, the following are all organic products that can be used in the garden:

• Orange Guard, SharpShooter, and Green Light’s Organic Lawn and Garden Spray.

• Hot pepper wax. This helps keep animals and many insects from raiding your garden, and works well on food crops. It is derived from cayenne pepper, a natural repellent for small animals such as chipmunks, rabbits, squirrels, and gophers.

• Milky spore powder. This is a naturally occurring bacterium that’s lethal to Japanese beetles.

Controlling larger pests can be more difficult. There are organic products available—look for Shake Away Small Critter, Shake Away Deer, Deer Scram, Plantskydd Deer Repellent, and Scoot Mole, depending on what you’re battling. All are labeled 100 percent organic. Most contain fairly odoriferous ingredients—urea, garlic and garlic oil, dried blood—so you’ll want to be careful when applying them, as the point is to repel animals without making your garden an unbearably smelly place to be. The odor does dissipate over time—you won’t smell it but the animals still will. When applied according to directions, these repellents can be very effective.

Be sure to read product labels carefully; many are labeled organic as they contain organic substances, but they may have synthetic chemicals, too.

Sustaining Soil Health

Harvest time is when activity in non-organic gardens typically comes to an end, but when you’re gardening organically there’s still work to do. This is when the sustainability factor of organic gardening enters in. You’ve taken nutrients from the ground; now it’s time to put them back.

After harvesting is over, you can work what’s left over—plant stalks, leaves, roots, and so forth, into the soil along with other organic matter—compost, leaves, mulch, and such. Or you can take the traditional approach and plant a cover crop like peas, vetch, or clover. They’re called green manure, and for good reason—they add tons of nitrogen to the soil. They also improve soil texture, improve moisture levels, boost earth-worm and beneficial microorganism populations, and protect the soil from erosion.

Before replanting your garden, you’ll cut or mow the cover crop down and till it into the soil. And a whole new cycle of organic gardening will begin.

The Least You Need to Know

• Organic gardening takes the same commitment as organic lawn care does—no synthetic herbicide or pesticide use, plus supplementation and pest control delivered naturally, using organic products.

• Companion planting is a key element of many successful organic gardening programs.

• An easy, basic approach to companion planting is to simply intermix flowers and vegetables in the same bed.

• Container gardening—utilizing container-friendly plants like herbs—is a great way to maximize the growing potential of a small space.

• Planting cover crops in the fall replaces nutrients lost during the growing season and sustains the health and viability of organic gardens.

Chapter 11

Piling It On

In This Chapter

• The benefits of compost, or “black gold”

• Building your pile

• Keeping it stoked

• Putting it to use

If there’s one thing that says “organic” more than any other, it has to be compost. When you talk about the ideal definition of living in harmony—returning substances from where they came—you can’t get a much better example than compost. Plus, organic living starts in the ground and goes up from there. When you compost, you put back nutrients that were taken from the soil so they can be used again. You’re literally returning substances to their roots in every way.

As discussed in previous chapters, healthy soil is the cornerstone of organic gardening. Hands down, composting is the best way to create healthy soil. Even if you live in a high rise, you can compost. What’s more, you shouldn’t have any trouble finding people who will be glad to take the finished product off your hands if you don’t have a use for it.

At its most basic, composting is fairly simple; but it can also be fairly sophisticated. Due to space limitations, we can’t cover all approaches in depth here; but we can definitely get you started on your composting journey.

All About “Black Gold”

Composting is a biological process that turns organic and natural materials into nutrients like carbon and nitrogen, which boost soil health and, in turn, support plant health. When you maintain a compost pile or bin, you’re simply speeding up a process that occurs naturally in nature.

Compost is often referred to as “black gold,” and for good reason, as it really is incredibly valuable. Add just one good dose of compost to your garden and you’ve basically put in as much topsoil as it would take nature a century to accumulate. But this is just the beginning of a long list of compost’s good work. It also …

• Feeds soil organisms. As previously discussed, soil organisms are the vital ingredient for soil health. Without them, organic matter doesn’t turn into plant nutrients.

• Boosts overall soil health by improving its chemistry and nutrient levels. Improve soil chemistry and nutrient levels, and you’ll get healthier soil and healthier microbes (and many more of them).

• Helps protect plants from diseases and undesirable insects. When you give plants the natural substances to support their existence, you’re helping them build their natural protection against pathogens that lurk in the soil and supporting their general health so they’re more capable of fending off illness and predators.

• Changes the temperature of the soil around your plants and trees. Compost is a good (if not great) insulator; a layer of it on the top of garden beds can help keep soil temperatures at optimum levels.

• Improves the soil’s ability to hold water and air. Lots of different substances can be used to change soil texture and structure if it has issues, as it often does. But compost is usually—if not always—the best choice, as it not only does a great job of improving the soil’s basic structure, it adds desirable nutrients while doing so.

• Gives plants healthy, steady nutrition. The composting process literally pre-digests nutrients, which makes it easier for soil organisms to take them up. If soil organisms are well fed, so are plants. What’s more, unlike synthetic fertilizers, compost releases its nutrients slowly and only when plants need them.

Compost also destroys 99.6 percent of industrial volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) in the air, saves you the money you would have spent on plant food (while eliminating the need for chemical fertilizers), and frees up the landfill space that would have been occupied by organic food and plant scraps, all while supplying your garden the many essential mineral nutrients that are often lacking in soil due to overuse, over-tilling, and over-planting.

Compost—and composting—sometimes get a bad rap. Compost heaps can be a little smelly at times, especially if they’re not maintained or fed properly, and they can attract flies and other animals, which is why it’s typically a good idea to locate them some distance away from living structures.

It’s interesting to note, however, that the loudest compost naysayers are the manufacturers and proponents of synthetic fertilizers, both of whom prefer to categorize compost as a “soil amendment,” and not as a fertilizer.

The basis for their argument is the fact that compost is typically lower in mineral nutrient content, and especially in trace elements, than synthetically created fertilizer. This is a somewhat valid concern, but it’s far from the mega-issue that manufacturers and trade associations would like to have you believe.

Optimum soil health is the result of an assortment of different nutrients. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the minerals at the head of the list, but there are many others as well. Compost can provide good amounts of the big three substances—often referred to as NPK (N for nitrogen, P for phosphorus, K for potassium)—but it can be short on trace elements like sodium, calcium, chloride, sulfur, iron, magnesium, copper, zinc, boron, and selenium, which plants also need, but in very small amounts.

def•i•ni•tion

Trace elements are minerals that all living things—plants and humans—need minute amounts of for optimum health.

How do you make up for the lack of the trace elements that plants need for complete health? If necessary (as determined by soil tests), you can use natural fertilizers. Go with fish-based (fish emulsion or fish meal) or seaweed-based products and you’ll boost plant health with up to 60 trace elements—basically, every nutrient plants could ask for—as well as good doses of natural growth hormones and disease fighters. These products can do some great things for soil structure as well.

Composting Basics

Composting is incredibly easy. You collect bits and pieces of organic material from your kitchen and garden, put them into a pile or a container of some sort, and presto! A month or two later you get brown, crumbly stuff that can turn a so-so garden into a thing of beauty. What could be simpler? And, as previously mentioned, you can compost literally anywhere. Even the tiniest apartment can house an active composting operation … we’ll get into more detail on this in a little bit.

The Dirt

Even if you don’t have access to much of a garden other than your houseplants (and, thus, no need for piles of organic compost), composting is still the eco-smartest thing to do. When you throw away organic trash, it goes to a landfill where, for all intents and purposes, it is prevented from biodegrading.

According to the EPA, yard trimmings and food scraps together make up about 24 percent of U.S. waste, needlessly clogging landfills when it could otherwise be turned into black gold in your organic backyard.

Location, Location, Location

Location is the first consideration on the composting to-do list. While compost can happen—and does, naturally—just about anywhere outdoors, certain locations are more auspicious than others, and a well-chosen site will definitely speed up the process.

Ideally, your compost pile should be:

• Near your garden. Having it close at hand will ease the transfer of material from pile to plants and make it more convenient to use.

• A discreet distance from your home. You want to be able to reach your compost pile easily, as it will facilitate the transfer of materials to and from it (especially if you’re adding kitchen scraps), but you also want it far enough away so that any odors it might produce won’t be too much of a bother. Nor will any flies or animals it might attract. As the materials in them break down, even the best-tended and maintained compost piles can produce odors and attract some intruders that could be considered unpleasant or undesirable.

• Protected from the wind. Too much wind can dry out the pile and slow down the composting process. If materials get really dry, they can also scatter about if the pile isn’t enclosed in some way.

• Kissed by the sun. You want a site with adequate sunlight for warming the compost; not having enough light will slow down the process. Too much sun will dry out the pile—easily rectified with a good dousing of water, but necessitating more care than a pile in a less sunny position.

• Well drained. Water is part of the composting process, and compost piles create moisture as they break down. Overly moist piles can really send up a stink; good drainage is necessary to keep piles from becoming soggy messes. (If necessary, drape your pile with a tarp during rainy seasons, as too much moisture is definitely not a good thing when it comes to composting.)

For outdoor compost piles, locations on grass or soil are better than on asphalt or concrete. Building on grass or soil takes full advantage of the organisms in the soil and will allow them to move up and down from the pile into the ground as the weather dictates. Both locations are also good for drainage.

If you’re limited to indoor composting, your kitchen is the logical and probably best place for it. Other possibilities, if you have them, would be your garage or basement.

It’s Organic

If you don’t have room for any sort of composting at all, check to see if green-waste pickup is available where you live. These are recycling programs that pick up food scraps, and, if you have it, yard waste for composting.

Contain Your Compost

There are many different ways to compost, from natural and free to fancy and expensive. Simply piling up the ingredients in one spot and letting nature take its course is the most basic approach. Creating an enclosure will do a better job of keeping compost in one place and keeping animals out of it. Chicken wire and wood are good choices as they’re easy to work with. Concrete blocks are another possibility. You can also use a garbage can or buy compost bins, already made and ready to go, in various sizes, shapes, and configurations.

If you either can’t or don’t want to have an exposed compost pile or bin, a compost tumbler might be the answer. Not only are they fairly nice looking, they’re pest resistant and they make compost faster. When compost is piled up in one spot, you have to mix and turn it frequently to get it cooking the way it should (or, as discussed, you can simply let it sit, but this approach can take a long time). Compost tumblers do the work for you, which speeds up the process overall.

For optimum composting, piles should be around three cubic feet. Piles smaller than this have a hard time generating enough heat to really get going. Huge piles might seem like a good idea as they generate lots of heat, but they can be harder to work and materials in them often don’t break down uniformly. Five cubic feet is about the largest you want to go. If you’re building a compost pile and you have lots of material, consider building two instead.

It’s Organic

If you’re looking for a compost bin or tumbler, check with your city or county. Some encourage composting by making bins and/or tumblers available to residents for free or at greatly reduced prices.

Indoor composters also have some container choices, but the considerations are different … actually, quite a bit different. Outdoors, the sun plays a key role in the composting process, as it helps provide the heat that fires things up. Since you don’t have the sun indoors, something else has to do the work. Oftentimes, worms—you read that right—are the agent of choice, but there are a couple of other options as well. The approach you choose will largely determine the container you use.

Vermiculture is composting with worms—specifically red worms. The worms eat the organic waste and produce castings—an odorless, nutrient-rich organic product that can be used as mulch or fertilizer. Naturally occurring organisms such as bacteria aid the decomposing process, but the worms do the bulk of the work. And they work fast—they eat their weight in kitchen scraps and produce their weight in castings every day.

Vermiculture can be done both indoors and out, but it’s a top choice for indoor composters because it can happen in such a small area—even as small as a two-liter soda bottle. It’s also an ideal choice if, like most city dwellers with limited outdoor space, you have more food scraps than other items to compost, as the worms consume this material especially quickly.

You can build or buy a container for your worms, but you’ll have to order the worms themselves; earthworms and other garden-variety worms aren’t good choices for vermiculture.

Wormless composting approaches include the NatureMill Indoor Composter, which, according to the manufacturer, is fully automatic and odor free, thanks to continuous air flow and a powerful carbon filter. (More information is available at www.NatureMill.com.)

Another choice is bokashi composting, which works via fermentation—in this case, wheat bran that’s inoculated with molasses, water, and microbes. The Japanese have taken the bokashi approach for some time and with good success. It takes less time than a conventional compost bin, and it has an advantage that other composters (with the exception of the NatureMill) do not—it can take meat and dairy scraps, both of which are no-nos in conventional composting. (We’ll go into more detail on this in a bit.)

There are other benefits to approaches like vermiculture, NatureMill, and bokashi: they can keep your composting efforts going through the winter, and they’re great if you have lots of kitchen waste but not much from the garden. Many people who maintain outdoor compost piles augment them with indoor composting for both reasons.

Composting Accessories

These are items that aren’t essential to your composting program, but can be nice to have. They include:

• Composting thermometer. Heat plays a big role in composting and is critical when you want to do things like eradicate weed seeds, because compost piles must reach and maintain a certain temperature level to do so. Testing with a thermometer is the only way to ensure that this happens. Even if you’re not trying to cook away weed seeds, testing your heap regularly with a thermometer ensures the process is moving along as it should.

• Compost pail. This is a container for storing scraps from the kitchen prior to composting. Some come with charcoal filters in their lids to keep odors down. Or just use a large empty coffee can. Keep it next to the sink with a plate instead of a lid for easy access. (You can also store kitchen scraps in the freezer.)

• Compost turner. Compost breaks down faster if you turn it. Doing so keeps the air moving through the pile and eliminates stagnant spots. You can use just about anything to turn a compost pile—spades and garden forks work just fine—but compost turners are designed to make the process a lot easier.

Building Your Pile

The basic recipe for creating compost couldn’t be simpler: you use brown (dry) materials, which are carbon rich; and green (wet) materials, which are rich in nitrogen. The carbon provides energy for the microbes; the nitrogen provides protein for them.

There’s a long laundry list of materials suitable for the compost heap in both categories. Browns include:

• Cardboard rolls

• Newspaper (for best results, shred before composting)

• Wet paper towels (for best results, rip up into small pieces)

• Paperboard (such as cereal boxes and paper plates; for best results, break up into small pieces)

• Cotton rags (again, smaller is better)

• Dryer and vacuum cleaner lint

• Fireplace ashes

• Straw

• Leaves

• Sawdust

• Wood chips

Greens for the compost heap include:

• Animal manure. But only manure from herbivores—horse manure, cow manure, rabbit droppings, and the like. Heat-resistant pathogens make dog and cat manure a no-no.

• Animal hair

• Human hair

• Grass clippings

• Yard trimmings

• Fruit and vegetable scraps

• Coffee grounds and filters

• Tea bags

Finally, there’s a fairly short list of things you shouldn’t add to your compost pile:

• Coal or charcoal ash. Both might contain substances—iron and sulfur—which can be harmful to plants.

• Black walnut tree leaves or twigs, which contain a substance that can be toxic to plants.

• Dairy products. They can cause odor problems and they’re great for attracting pests such as rodents and flies. However, they’re okay if you’re using the bokashi method or the NatureMill composter, both of which are designed for use with these materials.

• Diseased or insect-ridden plants. If your compost pile doesn’t get hot enough, diseases or insects may survive the process and re-infect your plants.

• Colored paper. Paper with ink can contain heavy metals and other toxic materials.

• Fat, grease, lard, or oil. They all create odor problems and attract pests.

• Meat or fish bones and scraps. These present the same issues as fat and grease do, but if you bury them deep enough and combine them with plenty of plant waste—wood chips, sawdust, leaves, bark, and so forth—they’ll break down just fine.

• Yard trimmings treated with chemical pesticides. The pesticides could kill the composting organisms.

It’s Organic

Mushers in Alaska, in cooperation with the Fairbanks Soil and Water Conservation District, have come up with an approach that uses dog manure, with caution. You have to get your compost pile up to 140°F and hold it there until the manure decomposes, typically four to eight weeks. Also, the manure must be mixed with sawdust in a ratio of two parts dog manure to one part sawdust.

The proportions of the materials you use will largely determine two things: how quickly your compost breaks down and its aroma as it breaks down (or its lack thereof; a well-balanced pile will have nothing more than a pleasant earthy smell to it). If your pile has too much carbon-based material, it will break down more slowly because it will be too dry. Too much nitrogen-based material, and your pile can get stinky because it’s too wet.

Most experts recommend a mix of 25 to 30 parts brown to 1 part green for the fastest decomposition and the least aroma. You don’t have to be exact with this; eyeballing is definitely okay here, though you will want to stay in the general ballpark with this ratio. Since browns are typically bulkier than greens to start with, most compost piles end up with the right blend or something close to it.

It’s Organic

Want to store kitchen waste inside but worried about the smell? You can do it if you layer scraps with brown organic matter—soil and/or coffee grounds work well and are typically close at hand; sawdust works even better but can be hard to get hold of. Simply place the scraps in a container—try a bucket with a lid that will fit under your sink. Each time you add scraps to the container, top them off with brown organic matter to keep odors in check. When the bucket’s full, simply dump it into your compost pile and start over again.

Once you’ve collected enough brown and green material to start with, simply place it all in a pile or in your composting structure. To keep food scraps from smelling and attracting animals, cover them with good thick layers of other compost materials. Keep adding materials, ideally in layers of browns and greens. Each time you add materials to the pile, water everything down. Add enough water so that the pile is evenly damp, but not wet.

Then, wait. And watch. Soon micro- and macro-organisms will move in to do their thing. As they do, the temperature of the compost pile will start to rise and things will be simmering along nicely.

If you just keep adding materials to the pile and watering them after each addition, you should end up with nice, useable compost at the bottom of the pile in about three to six months. If you want to speed up the process, you can do the following:

• Chop materials into smaller pieces. Smaller pieces break down faster as their greater surface area promotes more microbial action. If you have a lot of leaves, this is definitely a good approach, as leaves can take forever to break down.

• Alternate materials in layers. Three- to six-inch layers of browns and greens are ideal.

• Turn and stir on a regular basis. This is only necessary if you really want to speed up the process; compost will happen no matter what.

• Add some finished compost. Doing so will boost microbe levels and get things cooking faster.

Waiting for a compost pile to break down is a little like watching grass grow—it’s a slow process even when you take efforts to speed it up. But you’ll know that composting is happening as it should if the pile …

• Smells earthy, like good soil.

• Is warm. Temperatures will vary, but you should feel some heat when you turn it and you might even see steam rising if it’s cold out.

• Is bubbling. As the pile releases carbon dioxide, visible gas bubbles might be present.

You should also see some white stuff on the decomposing materials. This is fungal growth, and it means that the microorganisms are busily working away.

Maintaining Your Pile

Caring for your organic compost is as simple as turning it every so often and keeping it moist. As you continue to add materials to the pile, the finished compost will fall to the bottom, where it will wait until you’re ready to use it.

Your compost is ready to use when …

• The temperature in the pile is below 100°F.

• The pile is significantly smaller—50 to 75 percent or so—than its original size.

• The materials look decomposed—in other words, you can’t recognize what you put into the pile.

• It smells earthy. Compost should have an aroma like good, rich soil.

• The materials are smooth, not chunky. Finished compost should look rich, dark, and kind of crumbly—some people liken it to dark chocolate cake. Chunky compost is okay to use as

Toxic

Don’t mix chunky compost into the soil; since it’s still breaking down it can reduce the amount of nitrogen your plants can take up and actually harm the plants.

mulch, but since it’s not entirely broken down it won’t deliver as much nitrogen to your plants. And, since it’s still breaking down, it will pull microbes from the soil to assist the process, which can further limit nitrogen delivery to your plants.

What to Do with What You’ve Created

What to do with your black gold now that you’ve created it? The options are many:

• Add it to your garden beds. About half an inch to one inch is all that’s needed for annual amendment if soil is already rich with organic matter. If you need to improve questionable or bad soil, add two to three inches of compost and work it into the top six inches of the soil.

• Side-dress plants. This is a good option if you don’t have a lot of compost. Simply make a ring of compost around each plant and work it into the soil there. Start about an inch or so away from plant stems and move out from that point. Stop when you get to the outermost leaves of the plant.

• Boost soil health around trees and shrubs. You can side-dress trees and shrubs just like other plants. Put down a light layer—say about half an inch—in a ring on the bare soil under trees and shrubs. Start about 2 feet from the trunk and work it outward until you’re about a foot or so beyond the tips of the outermost branches. Then top things off with a thicker layer of organic mulch, about two to three inches’ worth.

• Top-dress your lawn. As discussed in Chapter 9, applying a light layer of compost to your lawn on a regular basis will do great things for the soil beneath it.

• Mix it in when you’re planting annuals and perennials. Simply grab a handful or two and dig it in as you plant.

• Make compost tea. This is a liquid version of compost, and, since it’s a liquid, it delivers nutrients and pumps up microbes faster. Like composting, approaches for making compost tea range from simple to complex. The easiest way is to simply take some solid compost, tie it up in a burlap or cheesecloth bag, and dunk it into a bucket of water. (If you need a ratio to follow, 1 part compost to 3 to 10 parts water is pretty standard.) Let the mixture sit for a few hours to a few days, and then pull out the bag. If necessary, strain the liquid before using to remove any solid material that might be left behind. (You can also just submerge the compost and filter it through cheesecloth when it’s done steeping.) Use the tea at full strength when watering, or mix it with water.

You can mix up your compost tea in whatever containers you happen to have around—five-gallon paint buckets work well. Tea-making rigs are also available; suppliers to check out for these include Growing Solutions Incorporated (www.growingsolutions.com) and Keep It Simple, Inc. (www.simplici-tea.com).

Toxic

Think twice about using compost indoors, especially if you’re not sure about the heat of your pile. Viable weed and grass seeds could be lurking if the pile didn’t get hot enough to kill them.

The Least You Need to Know

• When you compost, you’re literally returning vital substances to their roots in every way.

• Healthy soil is the foundation of healthy plants, and composting is the best way to create it.

• Composting requires two types of organic materials—browns, or dry materials, which are carbon rich, and greens, or wet materials, which are rich in nitrogen.

• Well-maintained compost piles shouldn’t smell like anything other than soil.

• Finished compost can be used in many ways—as soil amendment, mulch, topdressing, and as a liquid drink for plants.

Part 4

Naturally Beautiful

Coal tar, petroleum-based chemicals, lead—not only are all of these substances linked to cancer and other health concerns, chances are that one or all of them are ingredients in the personal care and beauty products you use every day. This part covers the health risks associated with the chemicals most often found in health and beauty aids, and presents alternatives to their use—including products you can make yourself.

Chapter 12

Saving Your Skin (and Your Scalp)

In This Chapter

• Beautiful but harmful

• Misleading labeling

• The problem with perfume

• Substances to avoid

Have you taken a look at the labels on your favorite personal care products lately? If so, you might see unpronounceable ingredients like “hesperidin methyl chalcone,” “caprylyl glycol,” and “tetrahexydecyl ascorbate.” Judging by the names alone, it’s hard to know if these are substances you want to be putting on your skin or synthetics that might be threatening your health and safety.

These three substances all check out to be pretty safe, but sadly, many other ingredients in popular personal care products don’t. The truth is, even if you think you’re buying pure, natural products that align with a healthy and organic lifestyle, it’s much easier said than done.

Concerns over Conventional Cosmetics

Substances that are either potentially harmful or actually known to be so can be found in virtually every cosmetic and personal care product. They typically lurk in low to extremely low amounts, which might make it seem like they’re not much to be worried about. However, more and more studies are finding that these substances are, indeed, cause for concern.

Many of the chemicals commonly found in cosmetics, body care products, and personal care products have been linked to some serious issues. Some are suspected or known carcinogens. Others are hormone disruptors. Still others can cause learning disabilities, birth defects, assorted neurological problems and disorders, and allergies.

Why are these hazardous substances so prevalent in the world of health and beauty aids? They don’t have to be, as there are safer alternatives to be had for most of them. But there’s nothing preventing the companies that manufacture these products from using them.

Regulations (or Lack Thereof)

The big issue here is the lack of regulation in the health and beauty products world. All the federal government requires of body care and cosmetics manufacturers is that they ensure the safety of their products—it doesn’t employ an independent third party to make sure the manufacturers are complying.

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the federal agency that oversees this area of commerce, only intercedes when asked to do so, and then only “when enough consumers complain of adverse reactions,” according to the agency. Companies aren’t required to publicly submit data on product safety, and the FDA has no power to enforce recalls of cosmetics.

No Stamp of Approval

Unlike other products that the FDA regulates—drugs, medical devices, and biologics—cosmetics aren’t required to have the agency’s stamp of approval before being put on the market. The only substances the FDA gets involved in at all are color additives—it banned FD&C Red No. 2 in 1976 and limited the use of FD&C Red No. 3 in 1990 (it can no longer appear in cosmetics and externally applied drugs, but can be used to color maraschino cherries, bubble gum, and various snack foods and candies).

As the FDA states: “The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) does not authorize the FDA to approve cosmetic ingredients, with the exception of color additives that are not coal-tar hair dyes. In general, cosmetic manufacturers may use any ingredient they choose, except for a few ingredients that are prohibited by regulation.”

What the Laws Say

The FDA’s oversight is based on two laws that govern cosmetics marketed in the United States—the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA).

Up until 1938, the Federal Post Office Department and the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) were the government agencies that watched over cosmetics and medical devices, with their primary focus being the sale and shipping of adulterated or misbranded products. In 1938, Congress put these products under the FDA’s authority by passing the FD&C Act, which beefed things up a little, but just a little, when it came to cosmetics. Medical devices were a greater concern, thanks to the wealth of questionable products then on the market. For cosmetics, about the only thing the act added to existing legislation was to require that the FDA certify the colors in them as harmless and suitable for use.

The FPLA, which was enacted in 1967, was developed to thwart consumer deception by preventing unfair or deceptive packing and labeling, and by providing information consumers could use to evaluate and compare products. It requires labels to state the following information:

• The product’s identity

• The name and place of business of the product’s manufacturer, packer, or distributor

• The net quantity of contents (size, weight, number, etc.)

The FDA and the FTC share the responsibility for the administration of this law. The FTC bears responsibility for “other consumer commodities that are consumed or expended in the household”; the FDA is responsible for foods, drugs, cosmetics, and medical devices.

Possible beefing up of current legislation might be in the works as part of the FDA’s Globalization Act; proposals for cosmetics would require manufacturers to annually register the products they make and the ingredients they contain. Companies will also have to comply with good manufacturing practices and will have to report all serious side effects.

In and on Your Body

In and of themselves, the ingredients in one skin cream or one mascara tube might not be much of a concern. But who uses just one of these products? What’s more, there’s often more than one substance of concern in any given product. And none of them sit only on the surface of your skin.

We used to think of skin as a barrier that protected us from harm. We now know it’s the body’s largest organ and also its largest filtering system. Our skin not only protects us from the environment, it helps us get rid of substances inside our body.

The Dirt

Studies conducted by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) show that people use an average of 10 different cosmetics and personal care products daily.

What goes on you also goes into you. Experts say we absorb between 60 to 70 percent of everything we apply to our skin. But we also know very little about the substances we use, because the majority of them—nearly 90 percent of the over 10,000 product ingredients in this category—have not been evaluated for their safety.

Combine the number of products applied by the average person, and the lack of information on the safety of their ingredients, with the fact that the chemicals in these ingredients build up in human bodies and the environment over time, and yes, there’s trouble in River City.

Common Misconceptions

What’s a concerned consumer trying to live organically to do? Buying products with labels that say things like “hypoallergenic,” “all natural,” “organic,” or “green” might seem to be the ticket. But then again, maybe not. While these products might contain fewer substances to be concerned about, labels like these are no guarantee that such substances aren’t part of their formulation.

The FDA doesn’t regulate terms used on cosmetic labels such as “hypoallergenic,” “all natural,” or even “organic.” Pick up a personal care product labeled as organic and you might find it’s anything but. These products are not held to the same government standards used for organic food. Some ingredients might be certified as organic, but it doesn’t mean the product itself is. Personal care products labeled organic can even contain ingredients you definitely want nothing to do with.

It’s Organic

The federal government might take a hands-off position when it comes to regulating the terms used on cosmetic labels, but some states do not. In 2007, California implemented the California Safe Cosmetics Act, which requires cosmetic companies to disclose any ingredients—including ones that were previously protected as trade secrets or proprietary ingredients—that appear on the state’s list of chemicals identified as carcinogenic or reproductive toxins.

In early 2008, the Organic Consumer’s Association released the results of tests done on more than 100 personal care products that either call themselves “natural” or are widely considered to be so. Trace amounts of a petroleum-based solvent known as 1,4-dioxane (linked to cancer in animals) were found in 46 of the products—not as an ingredient, but as a contaminant.

def•i•ni•tion

A contaminant is a byproduct of a manufacturing process.

Really Bad Chemicals

The federal government might not ban substances linked to health concerns (although legislation was proposed in 2008 that would strengthen laws in this area), but other countries do and there are plenty of agencies and organizations that study these chemicals. Some of these studies point to possible health risks and identify potential dangers. Others have linked specific substances to specific illnesses and health concerns.

There are hundreds of substances to look out for, far too many to list here. But they fall into some basic categories, and once you learn about these you’ll be better able to avoid products that contain these substances.

Is it possible to completely avoid these substances? Generally not, as they’re part of the world around us. But you can definitely limit your exposure to them or make the best informed decisions if and when you choose to use them.

Here are the substances of greatest concern and the products in which they typically appear.

1,4-Dioxane

Also simply called dioxane, this clear, colorless organic compound is primarily used in solvents, fumigants (substances that give off fumes, like disinfectants and pesticides), and automotive coolants. It has surfactant properties, meaning it helps create foam. It appears as a contaminant in personal care products, not as a substance used in formulating them. This means it won’t appear on ingredients labels, but it doesn’t make it any more benign.

Dioxane has been identified as an eye and respiratory tract irritant. Studies have also linked it to central nervous system, liver, and kidney damage.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified dioxane as a Group 2B carcinogen, which means it is possibly carcinogenic to humans based on its being a known carcinogen in animals. The FDA monitors dioxane but hasn’t recommended an exposure limit yet.

It’s Organic

In 2007, tests conducted by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics on more than two dozen bath products—most of them formulated for babies and children—found dioxane in all of them, with some products testing for concentrations at or above the FDA’s maximum of 10 parts per million. In California, products that contain more than 30 parts per million of the substance must carry a warning stating that the contents may cause cancer.

Dioxane is a concern in products that contain sodium laureth sulfate, a detergent and surfactant found in a wide range of personal care products, including soaps, shower gels, and toothpaste. A process called vacuum stripping can remove it during the manufacturing process, but traces of the substance can still remain.

Phthalates

Phthalates are clear, oily liquids (they look like vegetable oil) that are synthesized from phthalic acid. There are a number of different phthalates; those composed of larger molecules add flexibility to rubber, plastic, or resin. As such they’re found in many different products, virtually everything ranging from cars to apparel to toys. Smaller-molecule phthalates appear in personal care products, serving as plasticizers, solubilizers, denaturants, and fixatives, which slow down evaporation so that scents linger longer.

Phthalates are often found in perfume, where they work to make fragrances last longer.

def•i•ni•tion

Plasticizers are substances that make rubber, plastic, or resin flexible. Solubilizers are substances used to dissolve other substances in. Denaturants are substances that make products bitter to the taste.

The phthalate form most often found in personal care products and cosmetics is diethyl phthalate (DEP), which is primarily used as a solubilizer in perfumes and a denaturant in alcohol. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) and dimethyl phthalate (DMP) are two other forms used in personal care products..

Various studies have identified phthalates as suspected carcinogens and hormone disruptors, with reproductive issues being of particular concern. Phthalates can accumulate in human fat tissue, and CDC studies have found phthalate levels in American adults to be much higher than previously thought. DBP was found in the urine of all 286 individuals tested in one study; women of childbearing age had the highest levels, and beauty products are believed to be the primary means of exposure.

You’ll know if a product includes phthalates by reading the ingredient list on the product’s label. However, phthalates can also be present in fragrances used in products like cosmetics, hair spray, shampoo and conditioner, nail polish, and lotions. This is where things can get dicey, as the FPLA doesn’t require manufacturers to list fragrance ingredients—they’re protected as trade secret formulas and exempt from federal labeling requirements.

The Dirt

An investigation by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) found phthalates in almost 75 percent of personal care products in common use, including cosmetics, lotions, deodorants, hair sprays, shampoos, conditioners, and nail polishes and hardeners. The EWG had 72 products tested by an independent lab for the investigation; none listed phthalates as an ingredient.

Fragrance

All fragrances—natural and synthetic—contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs); when released, they’re what gives fragrances their scent. Whether natural or synthetic, VOCs can irritate tissues and the respiratory system, triggering asthma, migraine and sinus headaches, and contact dermatitis. Children, since they are lower to the ground, are more likely to inhale and come into contact with VOCs as they fall through the air and accumulate on surfaces.

Fragrances can contain hundreds of different chemicals but there’s no way of knowing what they are because, as previously discussed, ingredient labeling on fragrances is exempt from federal requirements. As previously noted, perfume can also contain phthalates.

Diethanolamine (DEA)

Diethanolamine, or DEA, is a wetting agent that’s used to create a creamy texture and to facilitate foaming in many personal care products, including soaps, shampoos, facial cleansers, deodorants, shaving products, moisturizers … the list goes on. On its own, DEA can cause skin and eye irritation—certainly an issue, but not a significant health concern. However, it can also combine with other ingredients to create highly carcinogenic nitrosamines, which have been linked to stomach, esophagus, liver, and bladder cancer in lab animals.

DEA has also been identified as a possible hormone disruptor. Studies have shown it inhibits fetal brain development in mice by blocking the absorption of choline, a nutrient required for brain development and maintenance. Lab studies have also linked it to miscarriages in animals.

Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde is a colorless, flammable gas when at room temperature. It’s part of the world around us—we even produce very small amounts of it as part of our metabolic process—but this doesn’t make it something you want to ingest a lot of.

Formaldehyde is a VOC, which means most of it that we ingest we breathe in, but it’s also a common ingredient in many personal care products, including nail polish, eye-lash adhesive, and hair dye. It can also appear as a contaminant in or as a break-down product of other compounds.

There is a long list of concerns associated with formaldehyde, ranging from tissue and respiratory irritation to immune system toxicity and cancer. The Department of Health and Human Services identifies it as “reasonably … anticipated to be a human carcinogen.” The IARC states that it’s “probably carcinogenic to humans.” The EPA follows suit, stating that it’s a probable human carcinogen.

Coal Tar

Coal tar is derived from—you guessed it—coal. It’s used in things like asphalt sealers. It’s also long been in use for treating skin problems like eczema and psoriasis, as it contains substances that can control the appearance and severity of these conditions. You’ll see it in things like dandruff shampoos and anti-itch creams for the same reason. It also appears in the dyes used in some toothpaste, hair coloring products, and mouthwash.

Coal tar has been identified as a known human carcinogen by the EPA, the EU, and the IARC.

The Dirt

While it’s a product category rather than a substance, antibacterials also rank high on the ”to be avoided” list for several reasons. Overuse weakens their effectiveness, and many contain triclosan, which kills bacteria but has also been found to interfere with hormone functions.

Lead

Studies have shown lead to be a neurotoxin that can cause learning and behavioral problems in children and infertility and miscarriage in adults. It is a particular issue for pregnant women because it easily crosses over from mother to fetus, enters the fetal brain, and interferes with normal development.

Lead can appear as a contaminant in toothpaste, but it’s also an ingredient in the dyes used in some brands of men’s hair dye and in some lipsticks.

According to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, there is no safe level of lead. No amount of exposure is without harm as lead doesn’t break down in the body. Instead, it builds up over a lifetime.

The FDA limits the amount of lead in FD&C color additives used to color lipstick at 10 to 20 parts per million. However, there are no limits on the amount of these additives that companies can use in their products.

Lead was famously found in a number of lipsticks tested by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. A list of the lipsticks tested and the lead levels they contained can be found in the organization’s report, “A Poison Kiss,” available for download at the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics website (www.safecosmetics.org).

Mercury

Mercury is another neurotoxin that can affect brain development in fetuses and children, and can also cause neurological problems in adults. It’s in limited use today and most makeup manufacturers no longer use it, but it is still added to some eye-care products as a preservative and germ killer, and it’s added to some mascara or the same reason.

The Dirt

In January 2008, Minnesota enacted a state law banning mercury from mascara, eye liner, and skin-lightening cream, taking a tougher stance on products containing mercury than the federal government.

Experts say the amount present in mascara isn’t enough to cause problems in and of itself. However, mercury, like lead, accumulates in the body, so it’s a good idea to avoid exposure as much as possible.

Nanoparticles

Nanoparticles—tiny particles that are measured in one-billionths of a meter—are a fairly new concern but a growing one, as it’s believed that they can penetrate the skin more easily than larger particles and cause cell damage. They appear in a number of cosmetics and sunscreens; zinc oxide and titanium dioxide nanoparticles, used in sunscreens to make them transparent, are believed to be the nanosubstances of most concern. However, after studying a number of sunscreens that contain them, the EWG felt the data didn’t support this, stating that “The current weight of evidence suggests that these nanoparticles do not penetrate the skin, diminishing concerns for their adverse effects for sunscreen users,” and further, that “nano-scale zinc and titanium [are] reasonable choices for use in sunscreen, particularly given the known hazards of UV exposure ….”

def•i•ni•tion

Nanoparticles are tiny particles of substances that are measured in nanometers, or one-billionths of a meter.

The EWG is concerned, however, about what nanoparticles can do when inhaled from spray or powder sunscreens, so keep an eye out for further information on this.

Parabens

Parabens are chemicals derived from para-hydroxybenzoic acid. They have antibacterial and antifungal properties and are widely used as preservatives in both cosmetics and personal care products, as well as in food and drugs, to ward against these problems.

On the body, parabens can cause contact dermatitis and eye irritation. Inside the body they can disrupt hormonal functioning. One study linked sperm damage in mice to this chemical. An English study released in 2004 reported that researchers had identified parabens in samples taken from breast tumors.

The EU has banned one type of paraben—sodium methylparaben—from cosmetic use.

The Dirt

Can parabens make people fat? Some studies point to the possibility. Its action as a hormone disruptor means it could throw the body’s entire endocrine system off balance, which could lead to weight gain, among other health issues.

Oxybenzone

The chief ingredient in the majority of sunscreen products currently on the market (and in a bunch of other personal care products, too), oxybenzone has been linked to health concerns ranging from skin irritation and allergic reactions to cellular damage and hormone disruption.

Several studies conducted by the CDC and published in March 2008 shed new light on this substance, the safety of which had not been reviewed since the 1970s. The CDC found that 97 percent of Americans have oxybenzone in their bodies, and that there’s a link between oxybenzone and low birth weight in baby girls whose mothers are exposed to the chemical during pregnancy.

Oxybenzone penetrates the skin very easily, which might account for some of the results the CDC found. It also helps other substances penetrate the skin more easily, which is why it’s an ingredient in so many products.

Petrochemicals

Petrochemicals are substances derived from petroleum. 1,4-dioxane is probably the best known of them, but there are others that routinely appear in cosmetics and personal care products.

Some petroleum-based products, like petrolatum, aren’t much cause for concern. However, studies have linked petrolatum to possible contamination from polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which have been linked to hormone disruption and breast cancer..

Petroleum distillates, on the other hand, are definitely a cause for concern. Often added as antifoaming agents or solvents to products ranging from mascara to foot-odor powder and other foot treatments, various studies have linked them to cancer.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone has been used for many years to both lighten the skin and moisturize it. Studies have linked it to a number of concerns, including allergies, neurotoxicity, developmental toxicity, and reproductive toxicity. Some studies reported abnormal adrenal gland function and high mercury levels among users. It can also cause a skin disease called ochronosis, which creates disfiguring and irreversible blue-black lesions.

Hydroquinone can appear as an ingredient but it can also be a contaminant. Although it’s still found in both over-the-counter and prescription skin products (in different strengths), it’s one product the FDA says to avoid using.

P-Phenylenediamine

Also known as PPD, this coal-tar derivative is a common ingredient in hair dye—the darker the dye is, the more PPD it contains. It’s known to cause allergic reactions, often severe ones, and can even lead to scarring. Hair stylists are cautioned to use gloves when working with dyes to avoid contact with PPD; the people this chemical is applied to aren’t so lucky.

Take Action

This one’s easy. Go to www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/index.php and sign a petition to Congress that calls for closing the loopholes in federal laws that allow companies to put almost anything they want into personal care products.

The Least You Need to Know

• Even if you think you’re buying products that are pure and natural, you might not be, as they may contain ingredients that have been identified as health concerns.

• Body care and cosmetics manufacturers are only required to ensure the safety of their products.

• The FDA doesn’t regulate terms used on cosmetic labels, such as “hypoallergenic,” “all natural,” or even “organic.” Some manufacturers include the word “organic” in their brand name even if their products aren’t organic.

• Many ingredients commonly found in cosmetics and personal care products are linked to health issues ranging from neurological disorders to cancer.

Chapter 13

Safer Beauty and Personal Products

In This Chapter

• Making good choices

• Labels to look for

• Online resources for vetting products

• Sources for organic personal care, cosmetics, and body care

It’s easy—and definitely understandable—to feel a little doomed after learning about the potentially hazardous ingredients that are most likely lurking in your favorite cosmetics, body care, and personal care products. But here’s the good news: there are safer, cleaner, more natural substitutes for most of them. Even better news is that new products are coming onto the market at an amazing rate. If what you want isn’t available now, chances are it will be sometime soon.

It would be difficult to avoid every substance that could pose a potential problem, but it’s easy to make good choices and avoid products that contain large amounts of the most problematic ingredients. These products won’t necessarily be labeled as “organic,” for reasons you’ll soon see, but they can be better choices for you, your family, your pets, and the world around you, and, as such, they’ll definitely fit into the organic lifestyle.

Your cosmetics bag and your bathroom cabinets and drawers might seem a bit like a toxic waste dump to you now, but they definitely don’t have to stay that way.

Making the Move to Organic Beauty

Like making the switch to organic food, switching over to kinder, friendlier cosmetics, body care, and personal care products won’t happen overnight—it’s simply too expensive to throw out everything you own that contains ingredients you want to avoid. This isn’t to say you might not want to dump some products right away, but a phase-out, phase-in program will not only reduce the number of products you add to some landfill somewhere, it will be easier on your pocketbook as well.

Here’s how to go about it.

Set Priorities

Start with the products you and your family use most frequently, on a daily basis or at least a few times a week. Research their ingredients and look for substitutes for the products containing ingredients that concern you the most. Remember to include toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo, moisturizers, sunscreens, and cosmetics—if the average person uses about 10 beauty and personal care products a day and you come up with less than this on your daily use list, you could be overlooking some products with ingredients you want to avoid.

The Dirt

Part of making the change to healthier beauty and body care products might also include changing your expectations a bit. A natural shampoo product might not suds up as much as you’re used to. You might not get the same coverage from a foundation formulated with natural ingredients. You may have to get used to a relaxing bubble bath without mountains of bubbles.

There’s little question toxic ingredients have no place in products for infants and children. Remember, kids absorb more chemicals into their bodies, pound for pound, than adults do, and they don’t filter and eliminate those chemicals as well, either. Choose and use organic or organic-based products as much as possible. The same thing goes for pets, and for the same reasons.

Simplify

This step encompasses two approaches: choosing products with fewer ingredients and using fewer products overall.

As a general rule, products with shorter ingredient lists tend to be more natural than those with lists that go on forever. National Geographic’s Green Guide recommends selecting products that contain no more than 10 ingredients, stating that “the fewer the ingredients, the less likely you are to be exposed to a potentially irritating or harmful chemical.”

Streamlining your product lineup will do good things for your health, your budget, and the earth. If your makeup bag and your vanity drawers are jammed with makeup and body care items, set aside some time to sort through everything. Winnow your collection down to the products you use most often, and look for products that can serve more than one purpose. Do you really need separate hand and body moisturizers? Is spray-on conditioner overkill on top of regular conditioner? Can you use one product to tint both cheeks and lips?

Get Ingredient Savvy

Product labels typically list ingredients in decreasing order (companies are supposed to follow an established set of product labeling rules and most do, but not all), with the ingredients present in the highest amounts starting off the list. In personal care and body care products, water is often the lead ingredient.

Long lists of ingredients with long chemical names can be difficult or impossible to decipher, especially if you’re not a chemist. Some ingredients that look harmful might not be. Fortunately, you don’t have to learn what they all mean, but you can learn what to look for. The ingredients discussed in Chapter 12 are a good place to start.

An excellent resource for learning about the ingredients in your products and in products you’re considering buying is Skin Deep, the Environmental Working Group’s online cosmetic safety database, available at www.cosmeticdatabase.com. It doesn’t cover every product and every manufacturer but it is amazingly comprehensive, with information on more than 25,000 products searchable by product, ingredient, or company. Products and ingredients are scored on a scale from 0 to 10, with 10 being most hazardous. Click on the description of a specific product and you’ll see its score and a wealth of other information, including:

• Ingredients from the item’s packaging/labeling

• Ingredients of concern, and the concerns they’re linked to

• Recommendations for products with lower concerns

• Whether the manufacturer has signed the Compact for Safe Cosmetics (more on this later) and if it conducts animal testing

It’s Organic

A handy resource when shopping for products is the Green Guide’s Smart Shopper’s Dirty Dozen Card, which lists the 12 ingredients the Green Guide has identified as ones to avoid in personal care products. Go to www.thegreenguide.com and click on buying guides.

One caveat about this database: the information on specific products might not match current formulations. Many manufacturers are making concerted efforts to remove harmful ingredients from their products, which means a product review dating back a year or two might include substances no longer used in formulation. As an example, the ingredients listed in a 2006 review of Alba Very Emollient Body Lotion, Unscented, contain several substances of concern—primarily parabens—which the product no longer contains.

Get Label Savvy

The basic thing to remember when it comes to pure and natural beauty products is “buyer beware.” Manufacturers are free to make claims about their products that can range from meaning virtually nothing to being false and misleading, as there are no regulations in place that either define the terms in use or stipulate how they can be used.

Certification of any type is rare in the beauty industry; organic certification is more about the ingredients that go into products, not the products themselves. While there are some products that are 100 percent organic, and certified as such, the majority of the products in this category mostly contain some organic ingredients in varying amounts. However, they can also contain some ingredients that aren’t considered safe and natural.

What’s more, products in the natural and/or organic beauty category can even contain the word “organic” in their product description or have the word in their name and still contain ingredients that have been identified as causes for concern. Unlike the food industry, where the term organic is regulated by the USDA, cosmetics, body care products, and personal care products fall under FDA purview, and the FDA does not define or regulate the term organic when applied to these products.

Confusing? Absolutely. And, while there have been numerous calls for tightening things up in this sector of the beauty industry, regulations at the federal level remain loose. Companies can state their products are natural and organic when they’re anything but.

This doesn’t mean there aren’t certification labels to look for, however.

USDA Organic

Like food products, personal care products and cosmetics can display the USDA organic seal if they are certified to meet the National Organic Program (NOP) standards for organic agricultural products.

Under USDA guidelines, personal care products, body care products, and cosmetics can be designated as follows:

• “100 percent organic,” meaning they contain only organically produced ingredients (with the exception of water and salt, which can’t be certified organic). These products can display the USDA’s organic seal and must display the certifying agent’s name and address.

• “Organic,” meaning they must consist of at least 95 percent organically produced ingredients. The remaining product ingredients must be non-agricultural substances approved by the USDA or non-organically produced agricultural products not commercially available in organic form that are also approved by the USDA. These products are also allowed to display the USDA Organic Seal and are required to display the name and address of the certifying agent.

• “Made with organic ingredients,” meaning they must have at least 70 percent organic ingredients. These products can list up to three of the organic ingredients, or “food” groups, on their principal display panel. They can’t display the USDA Organic Seal but are required to display the name and address of the certifying agent.

• Products with less than 70 percent organic ingredients can’t use the term organic anywhere on their principal display panels. They can identify specific ingredients that are USDA-certified as being organically produced on their ingredients statement. Displaying the USDA Organic Seal and the certifying agent’s name and address is also not allowed.

The USDA states that it also allows cosmetics, body care products, and personal care products to be certified to standards set by other organizations and be marketed based on these standards in the United States. Depending on the country and the standards, these products might be held to higher standards than the United States sets.

Ecocert

This France-based organization has two certification levels. For “ecological cosmetic” certification, 95 percent of a product’s ingredients must be natural, and certified organic ingredients must comprise at least 50 percent of a product’s vegetable ingredients. A minimum of 5 percent of the ingredients in the finished product must also be certified organic. The standards for “organic cosmetic” certification are somewhat higher, requiring the same 95 percent natural ingredients but increasing certified organic vegetable ingredients to 95 percent. Products in this category must contain a minimum of 10 percent certified organic ingredients.

Parabens, silicone, mineral oils, and animal products are not permitted at either certification level.

Biological Farmers of Australia (BFA)

The BFA is a not-for-profit organization that represents the organic industry in Australia and certifies organic products. The organization states its organic cosmetics standards have been in place for “some six years” and that it’s a simple standard based on the organization’s food standards.

Cosmetic products must have a minimum of 95 percent ingredients from certified organic or certified wildharvest sources to be labeled as “Certified Organic” and bear the ACO logo. Minerals and other non-plant-based ingredients must be from natural sources, and alcohol and tinctures used in production must be naturally fermented and obtained from certified organic sources as much as possible. Petrochemicals can’t appear in final products but can be used as catalysts in ingredient production. Ingredients can’t be tested on animals.

More information on BFA standards is available at www.bfa.com.au.

BDIH

BDIH is the Association of German Industries and Trading Firms and represents pharmaceuticals, health care products, food supplements, and personal hygiene manufacturers. BDIH’s focus is on natural products more than organics; it grants its Certified Natural Cosmetics seal of approval to companies and products that meet the following guidelines:

• Use botanical ingredients whenever possible. This means that plants are grown organically or wild-harvested as much as possible.

• Are not tested on animals and do not contain animal byproducts from vertebrates.

• Do not contain synthetic coloring agents, synthetic fragrances, ethoxylated ingredients, silicones, paraffin, and other petroleum products.

• Do contain preservatives identical to those found in nature, such as benzoic, salicylic, and ascorbic acids and their salts, and benzyl alcohol.

• Are not disinfected via irradiation.

Products are certified by an independent testing institute.

Natural Products Association Certified

This new certification—the Natural Products Association launched it in May 2008—speaks to “natural” as opposed to “organic.” Its guidelines include the following:

• Total ingredients must be at least 95 percent natural or derived from natural sources.

• Ingredients must come from or be made from a renewable natural resource—plants, animals, minerals, and must be generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA.

• Ingredients that can pose any potential suspected human health risks are not permitted.

• Ingredients that were processed in such a way that would harm or alter their purity or effect are not permitted.

The standard allows formulation with non-natural ingredients “only when viable natural alternative ingredients are unavailable and only when there are absolutely no suspected human health risks.” Companies must also disclose product ingredients fully, accurately, and truthfully, and cannot test ingredients or products on animals.

Leaping Bunny

Leaping Bunny is the cruelty-free standard developed by the Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics (CCIC), a compact of eight animal protection groups. Participating companies sign a voluntary pledge to remove animal testing from all stages of product development. Suppliers of products to these companies make the same pledge.

Toxic

Labels stating that products are ”cruelty free” or ”not tested on animals” are not a total guarantee, as these statements don’t necessarily cover the ingredients in the products, which could be tested on animals. Companies using this labeling can also have other companies do the testing for them.

For a complete list of companies that are Leaping Bunny certified, go to www.leapingbunny.org/shopping.php. There is also a PDF shopping guide and a pocket-sized shopping guide on the site. Not all companies that comply with the Leaping Bunny standard display the logo (there’s a fee for doing so), so it’s worth checking the list at the site to see if a company does participate even if its products aren’t labeled as such.

Get Company Savvy

In general, companies that position themselves as organic and/or natural or animal-friendly in some way are ones to default to, as they’re more likely to provide full disclosure on the ingredients used in their products. A short list of companies in this category includes some well-established and widely recognized names, like Burt’s Bees, Ecco Bella, Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps, Jason Natural Products, Kiss My Face, Nature’s Gate, Tom’s of Maine, and Weleda.

These companies have a number of things in common, including being signers of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics Compact for Safe Cosmetics. The campaign is a coalition of various organizations dedicated to protecting consumer health by calling for the phase-out of toxic chemicals in health and beauty products.

The companies that have signed the compact—some 800 and counting—agree to do the following:

• Comply with formulation standards set by the European Union’s Cosmetics Directive, which lists more than 1,000 ingredients that the EU prohibits for cosmetic/personal care product use.

• Enter all products into EWG’s Skin Deep database, make safety information on their ingredients available to the public within one year of signing the compact, and enter new information about reformulated products and new products in the database.

• Substantiate all ingredients and potential impurities for safety by consulting scientific publications and publicly available studies, and flag any ingredients for which safety can’t be adequately established.

• Find substitutes for products that pose health risks.

• Make all product ingredients, including fragrance ingredients, publicly available.

The organization tracks compliance with annual questionnaires and random checks.

The complete list of companies that have signed the compact is available at www.safecosmetics.org. Look at the list and you’ll see that some of the biggest names in the industry—including Avon, Proctor & Gamble, L’Oreal, Revlon, OPI, Estee Lauder, and Unilever—haven’t signed it.

Companies that have signed are listed alphabetically. If they have websites (virtually all of them do), clicking on the company name will take you there.

It’s Organic

There’s lots of activity in the beauty world, with studies and initiatives making news almost daily. The Organic Consumers Association’s newsfeed (www.organicconsumers.org) is a great place for keeping track of what’s going on. Also worth visiting on a regular basis is the Environmental Working Group’s website (www.ewg.org), which also recaps the organization’s research efforts, and the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics’ newsroom, where you’ll find press releases issued by the organization, reports, and cosmetics-related media coverage.

Sourcing Organic Cosmetics and Personal Care Products

The natural/organic beauty industry has come a long way in a short time, with products not only becoming more plentiful but also easier to find. Health food and natural food stores, the long-time best sources, are just some of the places you’ll find them. Have you looked in the cosmetics section of your local Target or Wal-Mart? You’ll probably find selections there, too.

There’s an even greater wealth of products available online. Do a search for “organic cosmetics” and you’ll turn up a number of companies offering everything from makeup to pet shampoo.

It’s Organic

Too busy to vet products yourself? Go to Saffron Rouge (www.saffronrouge.com) and your work’s been done for you. Kirstin Binder, the guru behind this website, personally evaluates all products offered at the site for purity, quality, and effectiveness. What’s more, all products are either organic or biodynamic. Join ”Kirstin’s Inner Circle” and you’ll get monthly samples of organic and natural products delivered right to your door.

Other good places that might not immediately come to mind to look for products are farmers’ markets and craft shows and fairs. Oftentimes the people staffing the booths are the ones making the products, so if you’ve got questions, they should have answers.

Etsy (www.etsy.com), which is a lot like an online craft show, can also be a great place to source natural products from small producers. Note, organic and natural products, and especially those from crafters and other small companies, typically contain fewer preservatives. Be sure to follow label suggestions for storing these products, and when in doubt, throw them out.

The following are product lines to look for in various categories. Don’t consider them definitive lists, merely suggestions to get you started.

Body Care

In this category: moisturizers, scrubs, body soap, body wash, facial moisturizers, and hand soap.

Lines to look for include some of the biggest and best-known names in the industry, including Aubrey Organics, Avalon Natural Products, Burt’s Bees, Ecco Bella, Jason Natural Products, Kiss My Face, Tom’s of Maine, Nature’s Gate, and Weleda.

A couple of newer entries in this category are …

• Origins, whose Origins Organics collection of skin, body, and hair products is certified organic by the USDA. Available online at www.origins.com and at many department stores.

• Intelligent Nutrients (www.intelligentnutrients.com). Developed by Aveda founder Horst Rechelbacher, this is a high-end line of hair and body care products. Available at flagship stores in Minneapolis and New York, specialty retailers, salons, spas, and online.

If you’re looking for certified organic products, Terressentials is a company to check out. This Maryland-based company was the first to offer a full line of USDA certified organic body care products. Over three dozen products are available online at Terressentials (www.terressentials.com).

For men’s products, take a look at Herban Cowboy (www.herbancowboy.com). This vegan product line uses certified organic ingredients in its range of products, including deodorant (that really works), shaving cream, soap, and cologne.

Makeup

With hundreds of product lines and thousands of products to choose from, finding the makeup items that are right for you might seem like an impossible task. But there are definitely ways to narrow down the choices on the front end and then make informed decisions.

As previously mentioned, the company database at the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics is a good place to start. Some of the largest manufacturers haven’t signed the campaign’s compact, which will go a long way toward ruling out products made by them, but don’t take this as the definitive word—Estée Lauder hasn’t signed, but the company’s Origins division does offer certified organic products.

For checking out companies and individual products, you can’t beat EWG’s Skin Deep; but remember, it doesn’t cover every product on the market and reviews might not be current.

It’s Organic

Looking for paraben- and phthalate-free products? The website www.thinkbeforeyoupink.org, a project of Breast Cancer Action, has a list of companies that don’t use either substance. Downloadable lists are available at www.thinkbeforeyoupink.org/Pages/ParabenFree.html and www.thinkbeforeyoupink.org/Pages/PhthalateFree.html.

Also worth checking out for makeup reviews are the buying guides at Green Guide. They don’t cover everything, but they do give general overviews of products in various categories, and they can be a good place to start your search if you’re feeling overwhelmed with choices.

For product reviews from the front line—the people who use them—go to Makeup Alley (www.makeupalley.com). This comprehensive site covers the entire beauty products industry, literally from A to Z, with a company- and product-searchable database. If you want to know how a particular product performs, this is the place to go. Not every product is reviewed, but chances are good you’ll find what you’re looking for. Be sure to take what you read with a grain of salt; it’s by no means scientific.

Companies in the makeup category offering organic/natural products include:

• Miessence (www.miessenceproducts.com). Billed as “the world’s first and only comprehensive range of certified organic skin, hair, cosmetic, body, and health products.”

• Zosimos Botanicals (www.zosimosbotanicals.com). Offering handcrafted mineral makeup and natural skin care using plant-based raw materials, pure plant oils, natural waxes, herbs, extracts, floral waters, and essential oils.

• Larenim (www.larenim.com). Formulated from 100 percent minerals with no talc, dyes, oils, or harmful chemicals. Visit the company’s website and you’ll see a list of what its products don’t contain right on the home page.

• Canary Cosmetics (www.canarycosmetics.com). Another top-ranked mineral makeup company, with a full selection of foundations, blushes, lip colors, eye shadows, and more.

• Lavera (www.lavera.com). This German company offers a full line of paraben-free makeup and skin care products, including liquid foundation and anti-aging products, formulated with certified organic ingredients.

• NVEY Eco (www.econveybeauty.com). An organic cosmetic line from Australian-based NVEY Le Maquillage. The company states it’s one of the first organic cosmetics brands in the United States. Available online, at Sephora, and at other selected retailers.

• Ecco Bella (www.ecobella.com). Ecco Bella’s FlowerColor Cosmetics are formulated with minerals and flower waxes. The company states that its products are preservative-free with the exception of its shampoo, conditioner, mascara and natural foundation, and that over time these products will also become preservative-free.

If you check the Skin Deep database’s listings for foundation, you’ll find that the products with the least amount of concerns are mineral based. Mineral-based makeup is often promoted as being the safest choice in general when it comes to this category, as powders contain fewer ingredients that can cause skin irritation. They’re also typically lower in preservatives, fragrances, and other potentially harmful substances … but not always.

There are tons of companies making mineral makeup; you can even make your own if you’re so inclined. Be sure to read labels carefully and remember the “fewer is better” rule when it comes to ingredient lists.

Nanotechnology (which you’ll read more about under sunscreens) is an issue with mineral-based products. Look for companies that disclose particle size or state that they don’t use nanoparticles.

The Dirt

It’s said that women eat something like four pounds of lipstick over a lifetime, so it only makes sense to avoid products with harmful ingredients like lead, petrochemicals, fragrance, and other additives.

Nail Care

Conventionally formulated nail products (like polishes and hardeners) can contain formaldehyde, toluene, and dibutyl phthalate (DBP), all ingredients of key concern. Many products from smaller companies have been free of these chemicals for some time now; in 2006 the company that makes Sally Hansen told the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics it would remove these chemicals from their product line. OPI has made similar statements, but formaldehyde is still present in the company’s nail hardeners (formaldehyde-free versions are available as well).

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics identifies Anise Nail Care, Honeybee Gardens, and NAIL-AID Treatments (all compact signers) as companies that produce nail polishes, treatments, and removers without harmful chemicals.

Sunscreen

As discussed in Chapter 12, oxybenzone and similar products (avobenzone, dixoybenzone), which are used to both shield people from the sun (they absorb UV rays) and to help other chemicals penetrate the skin, are key ingredients of concern in sunscreen and have been linked to skin irritation, allergies, hormone disruption, and cell damage. In March 2008, a CDC study reported that traces of oxybenzone can be found in almost every American; a companion study published a day earlier linked oxybenzone to low birth weight in baby girls whose mothers were exposed to the chemical during pregnancy.

The Dirt

The EWG has identified nearly 600 sunscreens sold in the United States that contain oxybenzone, plus almost 200 facial moisturizers, 111 lip balms, and 81 types of lipstick.

Sunscreens containing nanoparticles of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide were also initially targeted as products of concern but the EWG has concluded the health effects of the nano-sized versions of these products need further study.

The best approach with sunscreens is to use products with physical blockers like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and, ideally, products that contain particles larger than 100 nanometers. Some manufacturers have started labeling their products with this information.

Products from California Baby, Badger, and Keys Soap ranked high on Skin Deep’s Top 10 Best Sunscreens list. For the complete list, go to www.cosmeticsdatabase.com.

Hair Products

Issues with shampoo include hormone-disrupting parabens; formaldehyde, which can be present in preservatives; PEG and polysorbates, which can be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane; DEA, which can react with nitrates in preservatives to create carcinogenic nitrosamines; and coloring agents, which can irritate the skin and cause allergic reactions, not to mention neurological problems and cancer. Another ingredient to watch for is bronopol, which is both a formaldehyde risk and a possible nitrosamine creator.

Companies to look for in this category include Aubrey Organics, Avalon Natural Products, Giovanni, John Masters Organics, and Ecco Bella. Lavera offers organic shampoos, conditioners, and styling products.

Personal Care Products

Personal care products discussed here include things like deodorant, toothpaste, mouthwash, etc.

Tom’s of Maine is the granddaddy in this category—you’ll even find sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-free toothpaste in the company’s product list. Other names to look for include

• For deodorant: Aubrey Organics, Avalon Natural Products, Miessence, Nature’s Gate, Terressentials, Weleda, Zosimos.

• For toothpaste and mouthwash: Kiss My Face, Jason Natural Products, Miessence, Thursday Plantation.

Kids’ Products

Little ones have been the focus of a ton of product development and there is a good range of companies and products to choose from. A good site for viewing many of them is www.hersweetbaby.com, which offers organic selections from a number of companies, including Mama Rose’s, Druide, Organic Babies, Angel Baby, and Motherlove. Companies to look for include Aubrey Organics, California Baby (available only online), Skin Care Baby, and Miessence.

Pet Care

Animals have different pH levels than humans do, which means you shouldn’t use products formulated for humans on them. And since chemical exposure is an issue for them, too, using organic products on your pets makes good sense.

Pal Dog (www.paldog.com) offers organic herbal shampoos and conditioners for dogs and a freshen-up foam for cats. Botanical Dog (www.botanicaldog.com) has grooming, skin therapy, and flea control products for dogs and cats. Aubrey Organics also offers organic products for dogs, including shampoo, cream rinse, and grooming spray.

Salons and Spas

Organic and spa are two words that should make beautiful music together … but not necessarily. Before booking your next spa treatment, call and ask what products they use. You might be surprised. The same thing goes for hair salons. Some use and sell natural and/or organic products, but the vast majority do not.

When it comes to hair coloring, there simply aren’t organic options, but there are product lines that contain fewer substances to worry about. Two to look for and ask about are EcoColors and Organic Color Systems.

The Dirt

If you’re going to henna your hair, definitely research the process thoroughly. One good source is Henna for Hair (www.hennaforhair.com). Or go to a stylist who specializes in henna applications.

A natural choice for coloring your hair, but not necessarily an organic one, is henna. Tread cautiously if you go this route; many commercially available henna products contain the same chemicals other hair coloring products do, including metallic salts and coal- or metal-based dyes. What’s more, if you put henna on hair that’s had color, bleach, or permanent wave solution applied to it (or even certain types of henna), the results can be disastrous. Green or purple hair is the least of what you might end up with. Hair that looks a little like what you’d feed to horses is common.

An Internet search will turn up organic spa offerings, as will a look around Organic Spa Magazine (www.organicspamagazine.com).

The Least You Need to Know

• You can’t avoid every substance that poses a potential problem, but you can make good choices and avoid the products that are of most concern to you and to your family, even your pets.

• There are safer, cleaner, more natural substitutes for most cosmetics, body care products, and personal care products.

• To check out the health concerns of your favorite personal care products, visit Skin Deep, the Environmental Working Group’s online cosmetic safety database available at www.cosmeticdatabase.com.

• Products with shorter ingredient lists tend to be healthier than those with long lists of long chemical names.

Chapter 14

Whip It Up: Make Your Own Chemi-Free Beauty Products

In This Chapter

• Alchemy in the kitchen

• Tools you’ll need

• Must-have ingredients

• Recipes for creams, lotions, shampoos, and more

If you poke around the history of some of the leading organic cosmetic and body care companies, you’ll find many of them were started by individuals who either had problems with conventionally produced products or simply thought they could do it better. Start making your own beauty products, and who knows, you might even join their ranks.

Making your own products is not only a great way to save money—things like body scrubs and facial masks are hugely marked up, which you’ll realize when you buy the raw ingredients to make them—it’s also the best way to control the content of the substances you apply to your body. Plus, it can be a lot of fun. Kids love to mess around in the kitchen, and you can even have a natural beauty party—invite your friends over for an evening of organic alchemy.

The recipes in this chapter will help get you started, but know there are thousands more out there, many of them easily accessible via the Internet. The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics has a short collection available at www.safecosmetics.org/action/features/valentine.cfm. Another good site to look at is Spa Index at www.spaindex.com—click on the Spa at Home link to get to the recipes. (Our thanks to Spa Index for allowing some of their recipes to appear here.)

You’ll also find suggestions for several good books on the subject in Appendix C.

Tools You’ll Need

You probably already own most of the following items, and it’s more than okay to use them if you’re only working with food products. Things like beeswax and soap are okay, too. If you’re working with essential oils, avoid plastics of any type as the oils can permeate these items. And if you really get into this, you’ll probably want to put together a separate set of tools for formulating use only, so you won’t have to worry quite as much about getting things squeaky clean. Here is a list of tools for making your own body care products:

• Measuring cups and spoons.

• Grater or vegetable peeler. Both work great on somewhat solid ingredients like beeswax and soap. Peelers are easier to clean, as you don’t have to deal with all those holes in a grater; use whichever you like.

• Knives. For the obvious reason.

• Glass measuring cups, ovenproof with pouring spouts. You can do everything with these—measure, mix, melt, chill. And store things, too.

• Blender or food processor. Good for whipping and chopping. Food processors are typically the better choice, as the motors on blenders tend to be on the wimpy side.

• Coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. Essential for grinding things like herbs.

• Hand mixer or immersible blender. Good alternatives to standing blenders for mixing things up.

• Funnel, for transferring your blends to containers.

• Cheesecloth or coffee filters.

• Strainer.

• Eyedropper.

• A pot or two for melting ingredients.

• Bottles, jars, spray bottles, etc. Feel free to reuse containers if you can get them clean to your satisfaction. If not, you’ll need to buy some. Natural food stores often carry them; the sources for ingredients given in this chapter sometimes offer singles and small lots.

Ingredients You’ll Need

Many of the ingredients that can be used for formulating natural body care products are no farther away than your kitchen or nearest supermarket. Safflower oil, for example, is a great skin moisturizer all on its own. Olive oil makes a great hair conditioner. You’ll see lemon juice and apple cider vinegar in lots of recipes for hair rinses. Have a banana or an avocado that’s just slightly too old to eat? You can use them for a facial mask or hair conditioner.

Once you learn the basic properties of various ingredients, you’ll find there’s no limit to how you can use them. For this reason, keeping some of the basics on hand at all times is a good idea.

Consider the list that follows as a starter set for cooking up your home brews. It’s by no means definitive, but it’s more than enough to get you started. Only products with some shelf life are included here; you’ll find perishables listed in the recipes that use them.

The Dirt

Many natural body and personal care products contain little or nothing to preserve them. Keep them fresh by making them up in small batches, refrigerating between uses, and using them as quickly as possible. Keep contamination concerns down by washing your hands first before applying them or by using a clean utensil to scoop them out.

Carrier Oils

Carrier oils are what the name implies—they’re used to carry other ingredients. You’ll sometimes see them referred to as base oils as well.

All oils listed here are available as organic; since processing removes most substances of concern, it’s up to you to go organic or not with them. Many are available in supermarkets and are often cheaper there. If you have trouble finding any of them, do an Internet search for “carrier oils” or “organic carrier oils.” One trusted Internet source is Mountain Rose Herbs (www.mountainroseherbs.com). Sun Rose Aromatics (www.sunrosearomatics.com) offers two carrier oil samplers that make it easy to try them all.

You’ll want to keep a few of these oils on hand for use in various blends; some have textures that are better suited to some applications than others, some are more costly than others, some you’ll simply like better than others. Buy them in small amounts and see which work best for you.

The Dirt

Buying in small amounts is good overall advice when it comes to carrier oils, as no oil lasts forever. All oils should be tightly capped and stored away from heat and light. Sunflower oil, which has a shorter shelf life than most, will last longer when refrigerated after opening. Pitch any oils that smell off—sour or tinny or simply not like they smelled when fresh—if you’re in doubt.

• Almond oil (also known as sweet almond oil). Almond oil contains a ton of essential fatty acids and is also rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, and E. It’s a good overall moisturizer, is especially good for dry, itchy skin, has a nice fragrance on its own, penetrates the skin easily, and is reasonably priced. This is a good pick for an all-around oil to keep on hand, but stay away from it if you have nut allergies.

• Apricot kernel oil. Another good, all-around oil and a good substitute for almond oil, as the two have very similar properties.

• Avocado oil. This oil is high in protein, vitamins A, D, and E, amino acids, and lecithin. It’s a super moisturizer and skin softener and can also improve elasticity, but it’s on the pricey side so it’s often combined with other oils.

• Coconut oil. Coconut oil is solid at room temperature but liquefies as soon as it encounters heat—dig into a jar of it and it will turn to liquid in your hand. It absorbs fast and is prized for soothing dry, itchy, or sensitive skin. It’s also an excellent hair conditioner.

• Grapeseed oil. This inexpensive, easily absorbed oil has a nice fragrance and works well for people with sensitive skin. Its price and versatility make it a good choice for an all-around oil to keep on hand, especially since it’s also tasty in salad dressing.

• Jojoba oil. This oil is actually a wax that’s liquid at room temperature—it will solidify if you refrigerate it. Its chemical composition is similar to human skin, which makes it a good choice for people with oily skin because it mixes well with skin sebum. It lasts longer than most carrier oils and absorbs well, but it’s on the expensive side.

• Macadamia nut oil. High in fatty acids, this is another oil that resembles skin sebum and, as such, absorbs extremely well. It can also reduce the appearance of scars and can sooth sunburn and other skin irritations.

• Olive oil. If the thought of putting the same oil on your face as you put on your salad leaves you cold, leave the olive oil in the cupboard. If not, know that it works well in many formulations. One classic combo is olive oil and rosemary as a tonic for listless hair; some believe that it can stimulate hair growth.

• Safflower oil. Safflower oil contains omega-6 fatty acids and has one of the highest linoleic acid contents of all oils. Linoleic acid is what keeps skin soft, and as we age our bodies produce less of it; applying this oil regularly can help keep skin moisture levels up.

• Sesame seed oil. Sesame seed oil contains lots of good stuff—natural antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, proteins, lecithin, and amino acids. It is a superior moisturizer and can help reduce the appearance of scars. It also has some natural sunscreening abilities.

• Sunflower oil. This oil is high in essential fatty acids and a number of vitamins—A, C, D, and E. It doesn’t absorb rapidly and can leave an oily feel on the skin, but can feel great on extremely dry skin for this reason. Not an oil with a long shelf life; buy small amounts and use quickly or refrigerate.

Other Ingredients

You’ll want to keep these ingredients on hand as well:

• ◆ Cocoa butter. Expressed from the roasted seeds of cocoa beans, this is a solid fat that moisturizes and protects the skin while boosting elasticity. It also has a yummy chocolate scent.

• Aloe vera gel. Aloe vera is a legendary burn and bite treatment. It’s sometimes used instead of water in formulating natural beauty products to add viscosity; if you don’t have it you can use water, but you’ll end up with a thinner product.

• Aspirin. Aspirin is salicylic acid, a naturally occurring substance in many plants. It’s the basis for a classic facial scrub; avoid it if you have aspirin issues.

• Baking soda. Sodium bicarbonate, which is what baking soda is, is a naturally occurring mineral. Valued for its abilities to remove odors, soften water, dissolve dirt and grime, scrub soap scum, unclog drains, clean ovens, and more, it also has a role in beauty product formulation.

• Beeswax. You might have to go to the health food store for this one. It’s a key ingredient in lip balms and similar products—cuticle treatments, for example—that need a solid base.

• Borax. Borax is sodium borate, another naturally occurring mineral. It’s similar in properties to baking soda, but has a higher pH and is stronger.

• Castile soap. Another trip to the health food store might be in order for this one, although it’s being spotted at more and more supermarkets. Available as liquid and in bars.

• Cosmetic clay. Many different clays are used for cosmetic purposes; depending on their individual qualities, they can be used to clean, exfoliate, or detox the skin. All clays draw oil from the skin, so if your skin is very dry you might want to forgo their use in anything other than cleansers. Be sure to buy cosmetic-grade clays that are certified lead-free.

• Cornstarch. On its own, cornstarch can substitute for talcum powder. It’s also used as a thickener in some creams and lotions.

• Epsom salt. Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate. It’s good for relieving aches and pains and lactic acid buildup in overworked muscles. It’s also good for pairing with finer-grained table salt in scrubs but is too abrasive to be used as a solo ingredient.

• Essential oils. Essential oils are natural fragrances derived from various plant parts. Buy these at a natural food store or online; be sure to buy essential oils and not fragrance oils, because these are not true, pure essential oils. The ones listed for use in this chapter are generally safe but should never be applied directly to the skin.

• Vegetable glycerin. This is a byproduct of soap making that attracts moisture and keeps products from drying out. It’s water-soluble, which makes it a nice choice for facial scrubs. Available at some drugstores, natural food, and health food stores.

• Salt. Salt has astringent and antiseptic qualities and is great for exfoliating the skin.

• Vinegar. Prized for restoring pH levels to skin and hair.

• Vitamin E. Buy in capsules or oil form; use sparingly on its own as a moisturizer or add to creams and lotions.

• Vodka. Vodka is used as a base for certain toners, colognes, and splashes. Buy 80 or 100 proof.

• Witch hazel. Great on its own as a cooling moisturizer, you can also add it to skin fresheners and astringents.

Toxic

Essential oils are extremely concentrated and can be harmful when applied undiluted and directly to the skin. Always add them to carrier oils or other products and never exceed the recommended amounts.

The Dirt

Exercise caution when whipping up your recipes. If you have sensitivities or are allergic to any ingredients listed in a recipe, don’t make it or—if possible—substitute another ingredient that you know you’re okay with.

Creams, Lotions, and Oils

As already discussed, most of the carrier oils listed previously can be used directly on the skin. If you don’t find their natural fragrances appealing, you can add essential oils to fragrance them.

A good carrier oil/essential oil ratio to start with is 10 to 12 drops of essential oil for every fluid ounce of carrier oil. Essential oils to consider, either alone or as blends, include grapefruit, mandarin, neroli, patchouli, petitgrain, rose, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver, jasmine, geranium, clary sage, myrrh, and ylang ylang.

You can also blend various carrier oils together to take further advantage of their various properties.

Yields 2 tsp. oil

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ¼ tsp. oil

Flake-Chaser Oil

A rich oil that will chase the flakes away. It is especially good for the face.

½ tsp. safflower oil
½ tsp. avocado oil
1 tsp. sesame oil

Blend together and apply wherever skin is dry and flaky.

Lube Ya

A very rich, very smooth lotion with a slight coconut scent that dry skin will eat right up. A good one for areas that take a beating and where skin can get especially dry, like knees and elbows.

Yields 1 cup plus 2 TB. lotion

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 15 minutes Serving size: 1 TB. lotion

½ cup grated cocoa butter
2 TB. coconut oil
4 TB. sesame oil

2 TB. avocado oil
2 TB. grated beeswax

Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl and set in a pan filled with an inch or two of water (this is a bain-marie, or water bath). Melt over medium heat, and then pour into a clean jar. Stir and let cool.

The “Balm”

You can use this as a lip balm or cuticle treatment.

1 TB. beeswax
3 TB. sweet almond oil

1 tsp. honey
8 to 10 drops essential oil

1. In small saucepan, melt beeswax with sweet almond oil over low heat. When the wax is melted, remove from heat. Add honey and stir well. When mixture begins to cool, but before it gets too thick, add essential oils a few drops at a time and stir to mix. Pour into small jars and let cool.

2. The glossiness of the lip balm is determined by how much oil you use. This recipe has a slight gloss. If less is desired, reduce the amount of sweet almond oil by 1 teaspoon.

Variations: If making lip balm, try combining a couple of drops of peppermint essential oil with orange, lemon, or lime; if making cuticle treatment, benzoin essential oil helps heal cracked cuticles and works well with one or more of the following: lavender, Roman chamomile, tea tree, neroli, palmarosa, sandalwood, jasmine.

Yields
⅓ cup balm

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: 10 minutes Serving size: 1/4 tsp. balm

Cold Cream

Cold cream is an ancient invention, first concocted by Galen, a second-century Greek physician, to heal injuries incurred by gladiators. It gets its name from its action—when applied to the skin, the water evaporates, leaving a cool feeling behind.

Many takes on Galen’s recipe have been concocted over the years; this one is from Spa Index.

Yields 1½ cups cream

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 30 minutes Serving size: 1 TB. cream

1 oz. grated beeswax or beeswax
pellets
6 TB. light carrier oil of
choice

1 tsp. borax
4 TB. distilled water
2 to 3 drops essential oil of
choice

1. Combine beeswax and oil in double boiler. Gently heat and stir until melted and well blended. (If microwaving, check ingredients every 15 to 20 seconds or so to avoid overheating.) Remove from heat.

2. While melting, combine borax and distilled water in a small saucepan and heat gently—until dissolved. Do not let it boil.

3. Slowly drizzle distilled water and borax solution into wax mixture, stirring constantly. When fully combined, beat vigorously until cooled. Add essential oil and continue beating until cream is light and airy with a brilliant white sheen.

4. Store cold cream in clean glass jars, preferably in the refrigerator. It will keep for approximately 3 to 6 weeks.

Note: Borax acts as both an antiseptic and preservative.

The Dirt

Wax can also be melted in a microwave. Heat in 10-second bursts, stopping to stir between each for even melting.

Cleansers and Scrubs

Spas and salons charge a ton for their salt- and sugar-based scrubs. You can make your own at home for mere pennies and you won’t need special ingredients to do it.

Sugar, Sugar Baby

The fine texture of this scrub makes it a good one to use on delicate skin, face, hands, and décolleté. Sugar doesn’t dry out the skin like salt does, making it a good choice for dry skin as well.

1 TB. white sugar
1 TB. glycerin or water
1 tsp. aloe vera gel

2 to 4 drops essential oil, if
desired (possible choices are
lavender, orange, neroli, rose,
jasmine, or anything that
smells good to you)

Yields 2 TB. scrub

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: 2 TB.

1. Mix ingredients in small bowl. Wet skin and massage mixture gently into skin (very gently, if using on your face). Rinse off and pat dry.

2. Store remaining scrub in a glass jar.

The Dirt

Sugar contains glycolic acid, a natural alpha hydroxyl acid that exfoliates the skin.

Brown Sugar Body Scrub

This scrub will make you glisten from head to toe! Be careful if using in the shower; the oil can make things slippery.

Yields 2¾ cups scrub

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ¼ cup scrub

1 cup brown sugar
1 cup white granulated sugar
(you can also use a mix of ½
cup sugar and
½ cup coarse
salt for a “scrubbier” scrub)
¾ cup carrier oil (good
choices include macadamia,
sweet almond, or apricot kernel,
all of which complement
the warm fragrance of the
brown sugar)

20 to 30 drops essential oil,
if desired (options include
cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and
vanilla)

1. Combine sugars and carrier oil in medium bowl, mix thoroughly. Add essential oil a few drops at a time and blend in.

2. Spoon into storage jar—if you added essential oils, a glass jar is best; the oils will seep into plastic. The oil will separate out of this scrub; just stir it up before using. To use: scoop out a handful of scrub and apply to moistened skin with circular motion. Rinse well.

Salty Scrub

1 cup sea salt
1 cup Epsom salt
1 cup carrier oil

20 to 25 drops essential oil
(possible combos include
peppermint, spearmint,
grapefruit, geranium, lavender;
for something different,
try blending black pepper,
orange, and lavender)

Yields 1⅔ cup scrub

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ¼ cup scrub

1. Combine salts and carrier oil in medium bowl, mix thoroughly. Add essential oil drop by drop and mix in.

2. Spoon into glass storage jar. This salty scrub will keep for approximately 6 months. Oil may separate out; simply stir before using if it does. To use: scoop out ¼ cup of scrub and apply to moistened skin with circular motion. Rinse well.

Coffee Body Scrub (from Spa Index)

2 cups coarsely ground coffee
½ cup raw sugar or sea salt

2 to 3 TB. carrier oil

1. Combine coffee and sugar or salt in medium bowl, mix thoroughly. Add oil and mix in.

2. Spoon into glass storage jar. This salty scrub will keep for approximately 6 months. Oil may separate out; simply stir before using if it does. To use: Take a hot shower to moisten your skin and open your pores. Using wide, circular motions, rub ¼ cup of the coffee mixture onto your skin with strong, even pressure. Shower off, pat skin dry, and apply a thin layer of your favorite body lotion.

Yields 2½ cups scrub

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: 1 TB. scrub

Toners and Astringents

Skin need a little freshening up after a long day? Try one of the recipes below for a quick pick-me-up. They’re also good for removing soap residue after washing your face and for balancing pH and oil levels.

Apple Skin Toner (from Spa Index)

This toner is intended for slightly oily skin. Witch hazel is a gentle astringent, apple cider vinegar will help restore your skin’s natural pH balance, and lavender soothes sensitive skin.

Yields 1 cup toner

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ¼ tsp. toner

⅔ cup witch hazel
⅓ cup apple cider vinegar

A few drops of lavender or essential oil of your choice

1. Combine witch hazel and vinegar in medium bowl, mix thoroughly. Add essential oil drop by drop and mix in.

2. Pour into a clean bottle. To use: Shake bottle well, dampen a cotton ball or pad with toner, and swab over face.

Aloe Vera Toner

As basic as can be and a good choice for skin that needs a little soothing.

Yields 1 cup toner

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ¼tsp. toner

⅔ cup distilled water

⅓ cup aloe vera gel

1. Combine water and aloe vera gel in medium bowl, and mix thoroughly.

2. Poor into a clean bottle and refrigerate. To use: Shake bottle well, dampen a cotton ball or pad with toner, and swab over face.

Zingy Lemon Astringent

Another simple, basic recipe—this one will definitely give your skin a zingy feeling. Don’t use if your skin is irritated in any way.

½ cup witch hazel

Juice from
½ medium lemon (about 1 TB.), strained

1. Combine witch hazel and lemon juice in medium bowl, and mix thoroughly.

2. Poor into a clean bottle. To use: Shake bottle well, dampen a cotton or ball or pad with toner, and swab over face. Store in refrigerator for a refreshing iciness when applied, or at room temperature (if stored at room temperature, discard after a week or two).

Yields 1 cup astringent

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ¼ tsp. astringent

Watermelon Toner (from Spa Index)

Watermelon juice is full of antioxidant vitamins and is noted as helpful for removing blemishes.

2 TB. fresh watermelon juice,
strained
1 TB. vodka

2 TB. witch hazel
2 TB. distilled water

1. Combine watermelon juice, witch hazel, distilled water, and vodka in a medium bowl, and mix thoroughly.

2. Poor into a clean bottle. To use: shake bottle well, dampen a cotton or ball or pad with toner, and swab over face. Store toner in your fridge between uses to retain freshness. It will keep for approximately one week.

Yields about
½ cup toner

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ¼ tsp. toner

Hair Care

This category is a bit tricky, as home-brewed versions of styling products typically don’t deliver the same results as conventionally formulated products do, and soap-based shampoo can be tough getting used to. Products from organic and/or natural care companies might be more to your liking, but it doesn’t cost much to experiment with the recipes that follow.

Shampoo

Shampoo is one of the easiest things you can make. The liquid version is simply a combination of liquid soap with water and oil (you can skip the oil if you have oily hair). Mix them together and, voilà, you’ve got shampoo. You can also simply melt a bar of natural soap in hot water or grate it into hot water. It’s that easy. Dry shampoos are even easier—you’ll be amazed at all the different things you can use to remove dirt and oil from your head.

Liquid Shampoo. Do-it-yourself liquid shampoo works best in soft water. If your water isn’t soft, soap scum can build up on your hair, just like it does on bathtubs and showers, and you can end up with dull hair. A fix for this is using a detergent-based shampoo on occasion, which doesn’t exactly fit the organic living model but will dispatch the scum in a hurry. Rinsing your hair with an acid, such as apple cider vinegar or lemon juice, will do the same thing as well as give your hair a nice shine.

If you have dry hair, one thing you’ll probably notice right away is that your hair feels much softer and silkier when you wash it with soap instead of detergent-based shampoo, as the soap doesn’t strip your hair of oil like detergent does.

Basic Liquid Shampoo 1

½ cup water
½ cup liquid castile soap

1 tsp. light vegetable oil—try
jojoba, almond, or avocado

1. Combine water, castile soap, and oil in a medium bowl, and mix thoroughly.

2. Pour into a clean squeeze bottle or empty shampoo bottle. To use: Shampoo as you normally would; since this shampoo is thin you might need to wash and rinse twice, especially if you have long hair. Rinse well with cool water.

Yields 1 cup liquid shampoo

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: 1 TB. liquid shampoo

Basic Liquid Shampoo 2

1 to 2 cups water (the final
thickness will depend on how
much water you add)

1 cup chopped or shaved bar
of natural soap
2 tsp. vegetable oil (as above)

1. In a small saucepan, heat water to boiling. Add soap, return to boil, then turn down heat until mixture is just bubbling.

2. Simmer until soap dissolves, about 5 minutes. Add oil. Remove from heat and cool, then pour into a clean squeeze bottle or empty shampoo bottle. To use: Shampoo as you normally would; since this shampoo is thin you might need to wash and rinse twice, especially if you have long hair. Rinse well with cool water.

Yields 1 cup liquid shampoo

Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 15 minutes Serving size: 1 TB. liquid shampoo

You’ll probably use up either shampoo recipe before it will turn on you; if you don’t, pitch it after a couple of weeks or so.

Basic Dry Shampoo. Many substances can be used to remove oils and dirt from the hair and scalp, including cornmeal, cornstarch, orrisroot powder, rice flour, and semolina flour. Simply take a small amount, say a couple of tablespoons or so of your substance of choice, massage into scalp, and work through hair. Let sit for a few minutes, and then brush out.

Dry shampoo can be messy; you might want to drape a towel around your shoulders to catch any that falls, or work over a sink. This technique can also leave your hair feeling a little dry after use; if so, rub a drop or two of light carrier oil into your hands and then smooth them over your hair.

The following recipe is a basic rinse for removing soap scum and imparting shine. It does so by tightening the hair cuticle, which makes it lie flatter and reflect more light.

Rinse Away

Yields ½ cup rinse

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ½cup

Juice of one lemon or
¼ cup apple cider vinegar (lemon juice will slightly lighten and brighten light brown to blonde hair; apple cider vinegar works well on darker hair)

1 cup warm water

Combine lemon juice or vinegar and warm water in a medium bowl, and mix thoroughly. To use: rinse through hair after shampooing.

Conditioners

You might find you don’t need a conditioner when using natural shampoo, as it doesn’t contain ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate, which can dry the hair and scalp. If you do, try a conditioning hair pack. Mayonnaise, direct from the jar, is a classic one—the oils and proteins it contains do great things for dry hair. Simply measure out about ¼ to ½ cup (depending on hair length), and apply it to damp hair. Some people prefer to wash their hair first, some don’t; do what works best for you. Cover your hair with plastic wrap or a plastic shower cap, and simply let the mayonnaise do its work for at least 15 minutes (longer is better; try for 30 to 40 minutes). When done, rinse and wash your hair if you didn’t before you applied the pack.

Other ingredients to try:

• Coconut oil, banana, avocado. All are good for dry hair. Coconut oil is also a great conditioner by itself.

• Olive oil, egg, yogurt. These do a nice job of maintaining normal hair’s consistency.

It’s Organic

Coconut oil is solid in the jar but will liquefy quickly when you apply it. You can also use it to moisturize your skin.

For oily hair, add a teaspoon or two of lemon juice to straight mayo or mayo blended with any of the ingredients given above.

Miscellaneous Personal Care/Body Care Recipes

These recipes showcase the natural cleaning and deodorizing qualities of baking soda.

Toothpaste

This is really more a powder than a paste, but a classic recipe if you want to avoid the additives in commercial toothpaste.

Baking soda

Water

Simply pour a small amount of baking soda into a small dish or cup, dampen your toothbrush, and dip it in. Massage into teeth and gums, rinse well.

Variations: Mix together equal amounts of baking soda and table salt. If you can’t stand the taste of baking soda, try mixing a pinch of white stevia powder with a tablespoon or two of baking soda. You can also combine baking soda and hydrogen peroxide to a ratio of 4 to 1 if you want a paste that foams up a bit. Be sure to rinse well after using.

Yields 1 use toothpaste

Prep time: < 1 minute Cook time: none Serving size: one serving

Minty Toothpaste

Coconut oil gives this toothpaste a creamy consistency and has antiviral, antibacterial, and antifungal qualities to it. The essential oils here are generally recognized as safe for ingestion at this proportion. Do not exceed the amounts listed. Reprinted with permission from www.oldpathsfamilyfarm.net/blog.

Yields ¼ cup toothpaste

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: ½ tsp. toothpaste

2 TB. coconut oil
3 TB. baking soda
5 drops peppermint essential
oil

5 drops spearmint essential
oil
A pinch of stevia powder

1. Combine oil, baking soda, essential oils, and stevia in a medium bowl, and mix thoroughly.

2. Pour into a small jar. To use: Dip toothbrush in to use.

Deodorant

Baking soda is one of the simplest and most effective deodorants; simply sprinkle some on where needed. You can also apply baking soda as a spray.

Yields 1 cup spray

Prep time: <5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: one bottle spray

3 tsp baking soda
1 cup distilled water

5-10 drops essential oils

Mix 3 teaspoons baking soda to 1 cup distilled water and pour into a spray bottle. Shake bottle to mix before spraying. You can also add essential oils to this blend; start with 5 drops of your favorite and build up to 10 if needed.

Variation: Cornstarch is another effective deodorant, on its own or blended in equal parts with baking soda. It also makes a refreshing body powder when blended with an equal amount of orris root, which has a pleasant violet fragrance. (Natural food stores usually carry orris root.)

Fragrance

You can add essential oils to any carrier lotion to make a lightly scented body oil—remember the proportion of 10 to 12 drops essential oil to each ounce of carrier oil.

Natural versions of perfumes and colognes can take some getting used to, as none will deliver the burst of fragrance synthetic chemicals do. They also lack staying power, again due to the lack of synthetic chemicals. However, the more you stay away from those chemicals, the more you might appreciate the delicate fragrance of natural products.

Eau de Cologne

This is a classic eau de cologne recipe. You can change the fragrance by using different essential oils; if experimenting with your own blends, don’t use more than the total amount listed here.

¼ cup vodka
¼ cup distilled water
15 drops bergamot essential
oil
15 drops petitgrain essential
oil

15 drops lemon essential oil
4 drops orange or neroli
essential oil
5 drops rosemary essential oil
2 TB. orange-flower water

Yields
¾ cup cologne

Prep time: 10 minutes, plus 4 days curing time Cook time: none Serving size: scant 1⁄16 tsp. cologne

1. Combine vodka and water in a glass jar. Add oils and mix well. Cover and rest 2 days.

2. Add the orange-flower water, recap, and let sit for another 2 days.

3. Strain through cheesecloth or coffee filter and transfer to storage container. Shake before using and use within 12 months.

The Least You Need to Know

• Making your own personal care and beauty products is a great way to save money and the best way to control the substances you apply to your body.

• You probably already own most of the items you’ll need for mixing up ingredients. If you’re working with essential oils, don’t use anything made from plastic as these oils can permeate them.

• Many natural body and personal care products contain little to no preservatives. Keep them fresh by making them in small batches, refrigerating between uses, and using them as quickly as possible.

• There are many different oils you can use in your blends; some have textures that are better suited to some applications than others, some are more costly than others, some you’ll simply like better than others.

Part 5

Organic Fashion and Interiors

Organic living calls for making our surroundings—our homes and the clothing we wear—as eco-friendly as possible. The choices are many, and getting broader by the moment as designers and manufacturers heed the eco-chic call.

Chapter 15

The Fabrics of Our Lives

In This Chapter

• Why wear organic?

• Concerns over cotton

• Worries with wool

• Certifications to look for

• Better choices for the entire family

Snuggly-soft cotton and warm, comforting wool—they’re natural fibers, which makes them natural choices for living organically, right? Well, sort of.

The fact that fibers like cotton and wool are natural—not produced from petrochemicals like synthetic fibers are—is only part of the story. In this chapter, we’ll take a closer look at what makes sense in this part of the organic living world and how you can choose clothing that’s not just good for you but good for the planet, too.

How Fabrics Factor Into Organic Living

When it comes to the fabrics around us—the clothes we wear, the sheets we sleep on, the towels we bathe with, the linens we set our table with—we need to consider not only where the fibers in them have come from, but what industrial processes were used to turn them into finished products.

There’s no question that materials like cotton, hemp, wool, linen, silk, and bamboo fit the basic definition of organic; they’re natural fibers and none of them are created from synthetic chemicals. But the fact that they are organic in nature doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re free from potentially harmful or toxic chemicals or that products made from them are pure and natural. In fact, they typically aren’t.

Poisonous Processes

Fibers can go through a lot on their journey from raw material to finished product. Some of these processes, like spinning and weaving, are physical. Most of the others involve chemicals, and many of these chemicals are known to be toxic.

Conventionally processed cotton, for example, is treated with urea formaldehyde, a known carcinogen, to help it retain its shape when washed and to reduce wrinkling. It’s bleached with products that release carcinogenic dioxin, and it’s dyed with products that contain toxic substances that are released into the environment. Like cotton, conventionally processed wool can be subjected to a battery of synthetic chemicals during processing—including hydrochloric acid—and can be dyed with products containing harmful metals and other substances.

The Dirt

Many conventionally produced fabrics are treated with flame retardants, permanent-press chemicals, and sizing, all of which can cause reactions ranging from itchy skin to asthma. Ever wonder why the labels on bed sheets and towels typically recommend washing before use? It’s to remove any excess dye that might bleed as well as some of these substances before they touch your skin.

A Far-from-Healthy Upbringing

How fibers are grown or raised also can be problematic. Cotton, for example, isn’t an easy plant to grow. It needs a good bit of water and it’s a target for a variety of insects and diseases, which means that cotton plants are regularly doused with a battery of insecticides and herbicides when grown conventionally.

According to the EPA, 8 of the 15 pesticides used to grow cotton are known or potential human carcinogens. Among them are:

• Fluometuron, which the EPA describes as moderately toxic to humans when ingested, slightly toxic when absorbed, and fatal if inhaled, swallowed, or absorbed through the skin.

• Cyanazine, which has been linked to a wide range of birth defects in animals.

• Methyl parathion. This product is so hazardous that it’s sometimes called “cotton poison.” It’s recognized by the FDA as one of the most toxic pesticides in its chemical class, and field workers are told to stay away from areas treated with it for four to five days after application. It’s been linked to a number of central nervous system issues as well as fetal damage in animals.

• Sodium chlorate, which can cause liver and kidney damage and make blood cells less capable of carrying oxygen.

It’s been widely reported that cotton farming uses approximately 25 percent of the insecticides and more than 10 percent of the pesticides produced for use around the world. These are alarming numbers; however, it’s important to put them into perspective. The report they come from was published in 1995 and may not reflect current levels for a number of reasons, among them the development of genetically modified cotton, developed to resist various pest problems, which is widely planted today (although GMO cotton isn’t without its problems; reports show some pests are finding their way around GMO alterations).

Cotton Incorporated, the trade organization that represents cotton producers and importers in the United States, states that only 8.5 percent of all pesticides applied to crops are used to grow cotton globally, and that in the United States only 0.09 ounces of pesticides are applied per pound of cotton produced. The organization also states that raw cotton fiber and textiles made from it consistently test negative for pesticide residues.

Still, there’s no question that no chemicals are preferable to even low chemicals, so this data still doesn’t give conventionally grown cotton a pass when it comes to toxicity concerns. There are fair trade and sustainability issues to consider as well, not to mention the effects that conventional cotton production has on the environment.

The Dirt

The Sustainable Cotton Project, a California-based environmental advocacy group, says it takes about one third of a pound of pesticides and fertilizers to grow enough cotton for just one t-shirt.

Fiber-producing animals, like sheep, can graze on pesticide-treated land (although they typically don’t, since the same pesticides used to treat infestations can also be harmful to grazing animals) and be treated with chemicals to protect them from parasites and hormones to boost yield.

Making Healthy Choices for the Fabrics of Your Life

Natural fibers are the way to go if you’re living organically, but there’s a difference—a big difference—between organic fibers and the clothing and other items they end up in, and it’s definitely something to keep in mind when shopping.

def•i•ni•tion

Clay dyes are made from minerals; the clay-dyeing process is centuries old. Fiber-reactive dyes bond directly with the molecules in fibers, which makes them extremely colorfast and reduces the amount of dye that runs off during the dyeing process.

Items can be made with organically grown fibers, and they can state that they are. But the fabric still can be subjected to unwanted chemicals, such as finishes and dyes that contain heavy metals and petroleum-based substances. There are companies that don’t use these chemicals—Earth Creations, which uses clay dyes to color its products, is one of them; catalog clothier Sahalie carries clay-dyed pieces as well. Fiber-reactive or low-impact dyes are another option to conventional petroleum-based dyes.

You won’t see textile products with USDA organic certification (remember, the USDA only certifies the fibers, not the products themselves), you might see wording on labels and packaging that does speak to organic certification or states that products were made in an environmentally friendly fashion. There aren’t global standards for organic textile production, but there are a number of certification and accreditation programs in place, established by various governments and private-sector organizations. Among them are:

• The Organic Trade Association. The OTA’s standards define four levels of organic labeling, ranging from “100 percent organic” (all components, including sewing thread, are organically grown and certified) to “Less than 70 percent organically produced constituents.”

• The Soil Association. This UK organization developed textile standards in 2003 based on criteria established by the International Federation of Organic Agricultural Movements (IFOAM).

• SKAL. A Dutch organization, which certifies agricultural products in Europe, South America, Africa, and Asia.

• The International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology. Better known as Oeko-Tex, this association introduced its Oeko-Tex Standard 100 in the early 1990s. Textiles that carry the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 label have been tested for and found free from harmful levels of more than 100 substances. Kids’ clothing company Hanna Andersson is one that sells a number of styles bearing Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification.

• bluesign. This Switzerland-based standards organization emphasizes environmentally sound and sustainable manufacturing and production. It states that its standard “certifies substances that have been rigorously tested against harmful effects on humans and the environment and for efficient consumption of relevant resources.” Patagonia was the first clothing brand to join bluesign; The North Face is one of the most recent.

• Ecolabel. Ecolabel was established by the EU in the early 1990s to encourage environmentally friendly manufacturing practices.

• IVN. Germany’s International Association Natural Textile Industry has a two-tier labeling system—IVN Certified Best and IVN Certified.

• KRAV. This Sweden-based organization also has organic textile standards based on IFOAM’s criteria.

• The Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA). Established in 2000, this organization certifies and promotes organic cotton products and garments in Japan.

The global tangle of organic textile certifications could change if the USDA’s National Organic Program adopts GOTS, or the Global Organic Textile Standards. These standards are the result of a joint effort between four key organizations—The Organic Trade Association, IVN, the Soil Association, and JOCA—which worked to develop a common standard that would cover organic textiles—not just cotton, but all natural fibers—from field to finished product. The standards they developed cover production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, exportation, importation, and distribution of all natural fibers.

Presently, GOTS specifies two types of labels, or grades:

• “Organic” or “organic in conversion.” Items in this category must be made from fabrics that contain at least 95 percent certified organic fibers or fibers from fields that are in the process of converting or transitioning from conventional to organic status. The rest can be non-organic fibers, including certain synthetics and recycled fibers.

• “Made with X percent organic materials” or “made with X percent organic in conversion materials.” Items bearing this label must be made from fabrics containing between 70 to 95 percent certified organic fibers or organic conversion fibers. The rest, up to 30 percent, can be non-organic fibers.

Certified companies can display the global standard label on their products.

The Dirt

For a really thorough discussion on the state of organic clothing standards and organic clothing in general, go to the website for Lotus Organics (www.lotusorganics.com). It’s home to some great eco-friendly clothing as well as a blog written by the company’s founders, Shellie and Michael Lackman, who are passionate about eco-fashion and update their blog regularly.

When It Comes to Cotton

The world’s most popular natural fiber—used more than any other natural fiber in the world—cotton is the fiber most often found in organic clothing. However, it’s important to remember that organic fibers do not equate to an organic product. What happens to fibers during production is as important as how the fibers were grown, if not more so. If they’ve been doused with synthetic chemicals like anti-wrinkle fabric finish and colored with petroleum-based dyes, there’s not much difference in health risks between organic cotton and fibers grown conventionally, at least not to the person who wears them.

Toxic

Beware of fabrics labeled ”naturally dyed.” Natural dyes, while extracted from plants like pansies, European oak, bilberry, and others, can contain metallic salts like aluminum, copper, iron, and chromium to make them colorfast.

Color-grown cotton is something to look for when sourcing products made from organic cotton. This is cotton that naturally grows in soft shades of tan, brown, green, red, and yellow. It’s been around for centuries, but in its original short-fiber form it wasn’t a good match for modern textile production. Now it’s back in a form that does work for modern machines.

Wending Your Way Around Wool

Wool can be certified organic if it’s produced in keeping with federal standards for organic livestock production, which govern how the animals are fed and managed. Synthetic hormones and genetic engineering are both prohibited, as is the use of synthetic pesticides on the animals and on pastures. Producers are also required to practice good land management by not having too many animals on the farm and by monitoring and controlling their grazing activity.

GOTS standards also apply to the processing of organic wool.

Products containing organic wool can be somewhat difficult to find, as there’s not much organic wool currently being produced. In 2005, an OTA survey of production and markets in the United States and Canada indicated that just over 19,000 pounds of organic wool was produced in these countries. Total wool output in the United States in 2005 was approximately 39 million pounds.

If you’re looking for products made with organic wool, the Organic Wool Network (OWN) is a good place to start. OWN is a collaboration of wool producers, textile artists that work with wool, retailers, support organizations, and others working to promote organic wool production and products. Members include:

• Del Cerro Hand Woven Textiles (www.delcerrotextiles.com). Textile art, handcrafted furniture, and accent pieces.

• Maggie’s Organics (www.organicclothes.com). Organic socks and underwear.

• Delano Collection (www.delanocollection.com). Sustainable women’s fashions made from all organic wool.

• Nui Organics (www.nuiorganics.com). 100 percent certified organic New Zealand merino wool for baby clothes and blankets.

• Fox River (www.foxsox.com). High-performance organic merino socks for winter outdoor enthusiasts.

• Sahalie (www.sahalie.com). A division of Norm Thompson Outfitters that is gradually adding organic wool and cotton to its product line; you’ll see more cotton than wool currently.

Patagonia (www.patagonia.com) is also a member of this network, as are several producers of products carried by retailer members.

Sliding Into Silk

Silk is considered an animal fiber (although it’s not spun from animal hair) because it contains protein. It doesn’t conduct heat, which makes it a good insulator, keeping you cool in summer and warm in winter. Certified organic silk is available, but scarce.

Buy Bast

You’ll see a lot about bast fibers these days, as they’re playing a big role in the organic fibers world.

Fibers in this category include:

• Hemp. Hemp plants don’t need regular dousing with pesticides and insecticides like cotton plants do, and hemp makes great fabrics. It also has natural antibacterial properties, which makes it a good choice for things like underwear and socks. Since it’s a natural plant fiber, hemp can be certified as organic.

• Flax. Fibers from flax plants are what we know as linen. In the United States, flax is primarily grown for its seeds and the oil derived from it; textile-grade flax fiber comes from overseas, with Europe and China both being sources of certified organic flax fiber.

def•i•ni•tion

Bast fibers are fibers obtained from the inner bark (a.k.a. bast or phloem) of certain plants.

Other bast fibers that you might see more of in coming years are soybean and banana.

Boogie with Bamboo

Bamboo regenerates quickly and is grown without pesticides or fertilizer. Like hemp, bamboo fabrics have antibacterial, antifungal, and deodorizing properties. Since bamboo is actually a grass, it’s eligible for organic certification. Bamboo can be processed mechanically or chemically; mechanical processing is preferred because it doesn’t use sodium hydroxide (lye).

Other eco-friendly wood-based fibers include lyocell, which goes under the brand names Tencel and Modal.

It’s Organic

For a great rundown on eco-fibers, sustainable fibers, organic fibers, and more, go to Eco-Innovations (www.eco-textiles.com) and click on the link to Coral Rose’s blog. Rose is a recognized expert in the eco-textiles arena and her blog does an incredible job of explaining what the fibers are and the issues surrounding them, as well as discussing issues related to sustainable and organic fashion in general.

Breathing New Life Into Old Clothes

Call it vintage, previously loved, well worn, repurposed, or whatever, there’s no doubt that buying clothing and other items that have had a life before they reach you—either in the same form or as something else—is a great way to avoid irritating dyes and chemicals found in new fabrics. Buying them is also a great way to do a good thing for the planet by diminishing the demand for new fibers and by keeping these items out of landfills.

Thrift stores are home base for used clothing and there are a number of used and vintage clothing sellers to be found online as well. eBay is the best-known source; non-auction online sources include Swango (www.swango.com), an online swap site, and Swap Style (www.swapstyle.com), where you can also buy and sell.

Or you could host your own swap party. While this concept could certainly work for guys, it’s become popular among groups of women, and certainly, given the quick clothing changes these parties entail, it’s probably best to keep them single sex. Make a list of girlfriends, and ask them to bring fashionable clothing in good condition that they no longer wear.

Other sources for recycled/repurposed clothing include:

• Baa Baa Zuzu (http://baabaazuzu.com). Amazing handcrafted clothing and accessories created from recycled woolen garments. Also available in selected department stores and boutiques.

• Mod to Modern (www.modtomodern.com). Restyled sweaters from recycled wool.

• Ekologic (www.ekologic.com). Forget anything you’ve ever thought about recycled clothing not being sleek and fashionable. Recycled cashmere sweaters are repurposed as dresses and accessories. Cotton t-shirts are recycled into mini skirts, tops, etc.

• Etsy (www.etsy.com). Lots of handcrafters recycle clothing, and there are some amazing things here; search for recycled, reused, or “upcycled” clothing.

Sourcing Organic Clothing and Other Fabric Products

The textile and fashion industries have heard the call for healthier, more environmentally friendly fabrics loud and clear. At one time selection was fairly limited and pretty pricey; it’s steadily getting better in both areas today. You can find organic shirts at Wal-Mart and Gap. Looking for organic jeans? Levi’s Eco Jeans are made from organic cotton.

Like all resources lists in this book, consider the following a starting point. As previously mentioned, this is a robust category and constantly growing. You can even find organic yarn and organic fabric for making your own clothing—all you have to do is look!

The following websites will help get you started:

• Organic Exchange (www.organicexchange.org). Established in 2002, Organic Exchange’s goal is to expand organic cotton production globally by working with farmers, manufacturers, and retailers. Click on “Business to Consumer” under “Marketplaces” on their homepage and you’ll see a list of manufacturers and retailers who are members. Each name links to more information, including the member’s website.

• The Organic Consumers Association (www.organicconsumers.org). Go to “Buying Guide” link under Resources and you’ll find several guides devoted to clothing. They’re organized by state and you’ll see some duplications (Patagonia, for example, shows up everywhere there’s a retail or outlet store), but you’ll also see some local producers and specialty stores as well..

• The Organic Trade Association’s Organic Pages Online (www. theorganicpages.com). Listed are OTA members, so you won’t find every big name here, and there’s a combination of importers, manufacturers, and retailers, but there are lots of clickable links to search through as well.

• The Green Guide (www.greenguide.com). Click on Buying Guides for lists of companies making eco-friendly fashion. Not everything listed is organic—some is recycled, sustainable, and so on—but you’ll definitely end up with a good list of names to look for.

• The Green Loop (www.thegreenloop.com). This e-commerce site has organic and eco-chic offerings from some of the biggest names in the business for women and men.

• Shop Bop (www.shopbop.com). Look for the site’s Earth Friendly section, billed as eco-friendly, where you’ll find organic selections amongst the recycled. A recent tour uncovered organic jeans from Joe’s Jeans, 100 percent organic cotton tees from Edun, and organic linen and cotton separates from Theory.

• White Apricot (www.whiteapricot.com). News and reviews on eco-fashion, including organic. Items with the White Apricot symbol next to their listings have exclusive offers for discounts.

Mainstream Manufacturers and Retailers—Clothing

None of the following specialize in organic clothing, but they all offer organics as part of their product lines:

• Nike. Nike claims it has steadily increased its use of organic cotton in its clothing since its 1997 purchase of 250,000 pounds of certified organic cotton, and states its goal is to “blend a minimum of 5 percent organic cotton into all of our cotton-containing materials by 2010, while steadily expanding our offering of 100 percent certified organic cotton products.”

• Timberland. Timberland states it began using organic cotton in 2003 in its promotional T-shirts and that it’s committed to further developing its organic offerings.

• Gap. Gap states it is exploring the use of organic cotton across its brands—Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy, and Piperlime; some Gap stores carry men’s tees and tanks made from 100 percent organic cotton.

• Patagonia. Long a leader in using recycled materials in its clothing, the company launched a 100 percent organically grown cotton sportswear line in 1996.

• Levi’s. Look for the “Levi’s Eco” line. Available at selected retailers and at www.levisstore.com.

• Eileen Fischer. This venerable women’s wear line has an extensive selection of organic cotton/Lycra blend separates.

• Wal-Mart. Wal-Mart holds the title for the largest single purchaser of 100 percent organic cotton products in the world.

• H&M. H&M started using organic cotton in 2004 in selected children’s styles. Usage has risen steadily from there; the company states that it will use around 2,000 tons of organic cotton in 2008.

Specialty/Online Manufacturers and Retailers—Clothing

The following specialty and online manufacturers specialize in organic clothing:

• Stewart+Brown (www.stewartbrown.com). The tagline of this company—Organic Pioneers—says it all. Everything they make is eco-friendly and green; fabrics and fibers used in their sophisticated, body-conscious designs range from organic cotton and Mongolian cashmere to hemp and linen and fabric cast-offs from other companies.

• Edun (www.edunonline.com). Founded in 2005 by Ali Hewson and Bono in partnership with clothing designer Rogan Gregory. Many items are 100 percent organic cotton or cotton blend.

• NatureWear Organics (www.naturewearorganics.com). NatureWear Organics started in 2005 with two well-established organic clothing lines—Blue Canoe and Maggie’s Functional Organics—and has continued to expand its offerings since then. You’ll find a variety of designs and styles for women, men, and children.

• Totally Organic (www.totallyorganic.us). Organic clothing is just a part of the product offerings at this site, which also include body care, cosmetics, bedding, and more.

• Blue Canoe (www.bluecanoe.com). Soft, comfortable styles great for casual wear, lounging, and exercise, plus lingerie and kids’ items. Also a new Studio line of bamboo, organic cotton, spandex separates.

• American Apparel (www.americanapparelstore.com). Its Sustainable Edition clothing line features products made of organically grown cotton.

• Gaiam (www.gaiam.com). There’s a nice selection of organic cotton and linen separates here. Organic fabrics are also used in many of the company’s intimates, loungewear, and yoga wear offerings.

• BTC Elements (www.btcelements.com). Founded by lifelong environmentalist Summer Bowen in 2005, this site is a carefully edited collection of clothing, gifts, and accessories, all chosen “with an eye to the environment and social justice.” Styles range from young and fun to sophisticated and elegant.

• Indigenous (www.indigenousdesigns.com). The founders of this clothing line have been dedicated to creating organic, fair trade fashion since 1993. Fibers range from alpaca to silk, and fabrics are made by hand on needles and looms, and items are hand-finished.

Organic Linens and Bedding

You won’t have much problem finding organic fiber bedding and linens, since retailers have really jumped on the bandwagon and offerings are almost ubiquitous. Remember, though, that organic content does not make for organic products; if you’re concerned about processing methods you’ll need to check labels and ask for more information.

Specialty retailers to look for here include:

• Heart of Vermont (www.heartofvermont.com). An extensive selection of organic products, including sheets, pillows, blankets, and towels.

• The Company Store (www.thecompanystore.com). Organic sheets, bedding sets, pillows, towels, bath rugs, etc.; some products carry Oeko Tex certification, or are noted as finished with eco-friendly dyes.

• Under the Canopy (www.underthecanopy.com). Another extensive selection of organic products from an extremely transparent company. An extensive disclosure of what organic products are is available right on the site; the company states that it will forward a certificate of authenticity for every fabric labeled as organic.

• Anna Sova (www.annasova.com). Luxury line of organic sheets, bedding, and bath products, some with SKAL certification, others noted as finished with ecosafe bleaching, dying, and finishing processes.

Sources for Doing It Yourself

Make your own clothing from organic fabrics and fibers, and there’s no question about it being 100 percent organic!

The following list includes some members of the Organic Trade Association who sell directly to consumers and some other trusted sources:

• Near Sea Naturals (www.nearseanaturals.com). Organic fabric, yarn, and notions, including organic batting and stuffing for cushions and pillows.

• Organic Cotton Plus (www.organicottonplus.com). The emphasis here is on—you guessed it—organic cotton! There’s a wide range of fabrics here, dyed and un-dyed.

• Earth Friendly Goods (www.earthfriendlygoods.com). Looking for hemp? You’ll find it here.

• Green Mountain Spinnery (www.spinnery.com). Yarns made from fibers produced in the United States, most of it purchased directly from growers. No chemicals used in production.

• The Vermont Organic Fiber Company (www.vtorganicfiber.com). Makers of O-Wool, 100 percent certified organic yarn.

• Blue Sky Alpacas (www.blueskyalpacas.com). Their 100 percent organic color-grown cotton yarn is just one of the organic offerings from this company.

Take Action

Want more organic clothing selections? Go to www.organicconsumers.org/clothes/action.cfm for details on the Organic Consumers Association’s Clothes for a Change program, which is working toward ensuring that at least 30 percent of all clothing in the United States is organic and fair trade by 2015.

The Least You Need to Know

• When it comes to the fabrics around us, it’s not just about where the fibers come from, it’s about the processes these fibers go through to become finished products.

• The fact that materials like cotton, hemp, wool, linen, silk, and bamboo are organic in nature doesn’t necessarily mean they’re free from potentially harmful or toxic chemicals.

• Both wool and cotton can be certified organic. Other fibers can be as well, but certification isn’t as common because they’re typically produced in foreign countries.

• Buying clothing and other items that have had a life before they reach you is a great way to avoid irritating dyes and chemicals found in new fabrics.

Chapter 16

Home Is Where the Health Is

In This Chapter

• What’s really behind that “new home” smell

• Covering the walls

• On the floors

• On the windows

We expect our home to keep us safe, snug, and protected from the elements, and to be a comfortable and enjoyable place to live. But the things that lurk inside the structures that shelter us can be as harmful to our health—and possibly even more so—than what we encounter outdoors.

Numerous studies have shown that indoor environments are, to put it bluntly, pretty sick puppies. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the air inside our homes “can be more seriously polluted than the outdoor air in even the largest and most industrialized cities.” Not exactly a pretty picture … or a healthy one.

Some of the toxins in our homes enter in from outdoors. Some are related to the cleaning products we use, and you’ll find a rundown on those in Chapter 18. But a fair amount of these toxins also exist in the materials and products we use to create the interiors of our houses.

The bottom line here is this: your health depends on making your home healthy, and cutting down on the toxins you have control over plays a big role in this.

That “New Home” Smell

Chances are you’ve encountered it at least once—that chemical, plasticky odor that hits you when you walk into a new home or one that’s recently been redone, maybe with new carpet and a fresh coat of paint or new wallpaper on the walls. Or maybe you’ve taken a deep whiff of that unmistakable “new car” smell (this one’s so popular it’s available as an air freshener at many carwashes) in your friend’s new pride and joy. And you’ve suffered a headache or maybe red, itchy eyes for your trouble. (Other effects related to that odor include dizziness, visual disorders, and memory problems.)

def•i•ni•tion

The technical definition for offgassing is ”the evaporation of volatile chemicals in nonmetallic materials at normal atmospheric pressure.” In laymen’s terms, this means that hazardous organic compounds are released into the air when they are at room temperature.

The Dirt

For the complete rundown on indoor air quality from the federal government’s point of view, take a look at ”The Inside Story: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality,” available for viewing and download at www.epa. gov/iaq/pubs/insidest.html.

If so, you’ve experienced offgassing—the culprit behind many of the key issues surrounding indoor air quality.

Offgassing happens when chemicals from various materials are released into the air, via evaporation, as products age and break down. The process can continue for many, many years after products are manufactured and installed, and for a long time after you no longer notice the odor that indicates the presence of the chemicals causing it.

Just about everything offgasses—it’s part and parcel of the world around us. There’s really no way to completely avoid it because there’s no way to completely stop it.

Some substances aren’t issues when they evaporate. But when the gases being given off contain certain volatile organic compounds (VOCs), that’s when trouble starts to brew.

Just a few of the VOCs you might recognize that offgas from building materials are benzene, formaldehyde, naphthalene, toluene, and xylene. They’re all known carcinogens and/or neurotoxins. And of course, the problems don’t stop here. Some VOCs, when they react with nitrous oxides in the atmosphere, can form low-lying smog.

Indoors, the following materials are just a few of the more noted offgassing offenders:

• Paints and paint strippers, stains, and varnishes, all of which contain petroleum-based solvents.

• Carpet and flooring. Carpet is a particularly noxious offender as each fiber not only might contain materials that offgas, it can also be treated with chemicals that offgas when they evaporate. What’s more, carpet fibers can accumulate and re-release substances emitted from other products.

• Engineered or composite wood products, including plywood, medium-density fiberboard (MDF), particleboard, and products made from them. Engineered wood products form the basis for a number of home interiors—shelving, stair treads, cabinets, and countertops among them. These products are issues because they offgas formaldehyde, which is a common component in the binders used to hold wood particles together; particleboard is a particular concern because it contains a larger percentage of formaldehyde-containing glue and a more toxic form of formaldehyde—urea formaldehyde. The highest offgassing levels occur in the first year after construction, but offgassing may continue for a number of years.

If you’re living in an older home, you needn’t be overly concerned about offgassing. The materials used in older homes weren’t as heavily petrochemical-based as the ones now used in conventional homebuilding—most have been developed in the last 50 years or so. Plus, they’ve been in place long enough that any chemical emissions that took place did so a long time ago.

But if you plan to do any remodeling on an older home—even just repainting—there are lots of things you can do to make your surroundings more in keeping with an organic, natural lifestyle.

If, lucky you, you’re planning to build a new home, you can do a great deal to minimize offgassing issues on the front end by working with a green builder or with a conventional builder who’s willing to either source healthier, more eco-friendly materials or use materials you source and provide. Yes, the process can be more expensive—estimates range from 10 to 20 percent more to build green than to build conventionally—but the results are priceless. Not only do you end up with a healthier home, you get one that’s more durable as well, since environmentally friendly products are made to stay in place for a long time. Plus, environmentally-friendly homes are boasting higher resale values, so you may save money in the long run.

It’s Organic

If you’re concerned about formaldehyde levels in your home, have it tested. Look for companies that offer chemical offgassing testing or indoor air quality testing.

That said, building green doesn’t necessarily have to cost you more. Researching and shopping smart can definitely save you dollars here. Take a look at the numbers below. They come from a chart at www.environmentalhomecenter.com, which compared the costs for green and conventional versions of some basic building and finishing products—paint, flooring, carpet, etc.—for a hypothetical 2,800-square-foot home.

Sourcing Healthy Materials

Homebuilding and remodeling are huge industries, and they’re served by thousands of companies offering upwards of 100,000 product lines. An estimated 20 percent of these product lines are natural, organic, or green, or offer products in these categories, but even at 20 percent it means a lot of plowing through information and visiting showrooms and galleries to get an idea of what things look like and what’s available.

Good starting points for looking at and learning about various products (and buying them, too) include:

• Building for Health (www.buildingforhealth.com). Billed as “providing over 5,000 green building supplies and ecologically friendly home comforts for more than 20 years,” the company has a few retail stores (with expansion plans in the works), but its online store is a real find. Visit it for extensive product offerings in every imaginable category, ranging from green construction to everyday green living.

• ecohaus (www.ecohaus.com). Like Building for Health, ecohaus has several retail stores and maintains a solid online presence as well. There’s tons of good information on individual products and product categories; the site even gives advice on things like buying carpet online. Need a wise, fair, and balanced explanation of VOCs and why it’s simply not possible to get around using them at times? You’ll find it here.

• Green Home Guide (www.greenhomeguide.com). This resource-oriented site contains some product lists and reviews. Its “Ask a Pro” area contains some good advice on a variety of subjects, including creating natural interiors, and mentions specific products to look for.

Another good source, although developed more for commercial purposes—specifically, for building eco-friendly museum exhibits—is Green Exhibits (www.greenexhibits.org). While some of the resources relate more to fabricating exhibits, many of the products and materials listed here are things that can be used in any building project. Click on the “build” link to access them.

The following basic suggestions for material selection come from Green Exhibits’ recommendations for things to use and things to avoid. We think they form a good overall philosophy to keep in mind when creating healthier interiors.

• Use materials that don’t emit toxins. Aim to use natural or minimally processed products, products made without dangerous substances, products made with PVC alternatives, and products that are not treated with preservatives.

• Use products made with salvaged or recycled content, including post-consumer content and agricultural waste materials.

• Avoid products or materials with a string of unpronounceable chemical names.

With that, let’s start looking at specific materials and some healthier, greener, more eco-friendly options.

Particleboard and Plywood Substitutes

Since so many engineered and composite wood materials—a primary offgassing source—go into a home, finding alternatives for them should be at the top of your list if you’re building a house or doing a structural remodel on an existing home.

Options here include:

• Using exterior-grade plywood where possible. This product isn’t problem-free; it will still offgas, but it will offgas less formaldehyde than interior plywood, as it contains lower-emitting phenol resins instead of urea resins.

• Building the structural components (substrates) of cabinets and countertops with formaldehyde-free MDF.

• Using FSC-certified plywood. FSC stands for the Forest Stewardship Council, which you’ll read more about in Chapter 17. For now, know that FSC-certified products come from responsibly managed forests and are the eco-friendly choice when it comes to wood products.

• Using boards made from agricultural waste or recycled materials. You might be amazed at all the different products that are being pressed into use (pun intended)—wheat straw, rice straw, sorghum fiber, recycled paper, even sunflower hulls are all being used to create these engineered wood product options.

If you can’t avoid using conventionally engineered wood products, you can cut down on offgassing by sealing any exposed edges or surfaces with either a non-toxic latex paint or a sealant made for this purpose. Keep in mind, however, that this is considered a preventive measure, not a cure-all. Studies suggest that sealing exposed edges or surfaces will slow down the release of harmful gases but not eliminate it. Neither product lasts forever, and as they wear down or if they develop chips, formaldehyde can still enter your home.

On the Floors

Most homes these days have a combination of carpet, wood, tile, stone, and/or vinyl on their floors. With the exception of tile and stone, which are inert substances and have nothing to emit (but can be an issue if they’re porous and sealed with products containing VOCs), all of these materials worsen indoor air quality, both in their manufacturing and in the products used to install them.

Vinyl flooring is manufactured using polyvinyl chloride (PVC); the chlorine in PVC can produce carcinogenic dioxins. PVC also contains phthalate plasticizers, which can be emitted as VOCs and have been linked to developmental and reproductive problems. Carpets are not only made from materials that offgas VOCs, they are treated and installed with substances that contain them. And since the fibers used to make them are soft and porous, they can actually accumulate and absorb VOCs as they’re released from other substances and products, re-releasing them later. (This is called sinking, and carpets aren’t the only culprits here; any soft material, even wood, can act as a VOC sink.)

Hardwood floors, even before they’re finished, are typically an issue as they can offgas formaldehyde and other VOCs from the substances used to cure the wood. Further adding to the problems with wood floors are the stains, sealants, and adhesives typically used on them. Engineered or laminate flooring can be a better choice as their emission levels can be lower, but toxic adhesives are typically used to bond their layers together.

The Dirt

Somewhat ironically, it was the installation of new carpet at the EPA’s headquarters in Washington, D.C., in 1988 that brought to light concerns over what carpets are made from and installed with. Soon after the carpet was installed a number of EPA employees developed health problems, and the incident became the first publicized case of what is now called ”sick building syndrome.” At issue, although never specifically identified as the cause of the problems, were the adhesives used to install the carpet and 4-phenycyclohexene, a chemical offgassed from the carpet’s backing material.

Alternatives to conventional flooring products include:

• Hardwood floors. They must be finished with low-VOC to no-VOC products and can be reclaimed hardwood floors, or laminates finished and installed with low- to no-VOC products.

• Bamboo. Put bamboo on your floors and you’ve not only made a good choice when it comes to sustainability, you’ll have floors that will stand the test of time—harder than oak and maple and better able to resist moisture and wear, too. Bamboo can be solid or woven and typically comes pre-stained and sealed in a variety of colors. Look for products made with low-VOC adhesives and finishes.

• Cork. Cork was a trendy wall covering in the 1970s, and you might still see it installed in its tile form in some interiors that date back to this period. Put it on the floor and it’s a treat—almost springy underfoot, quiet to walk on, and warm to the touch. It also muffles sound and is durable to boot. And it’s fire and moisture resistant. Cork is available as planks and tiles in a variety of colors and textures.

• Recycled content tile. This product is typically made from waste glass from items like light bulbs and windshields, or from a byproduct of feldspar mining. Like most other tile, recycled content tile is hard and dense, which makes it a good choice in areas where moisture can be an issue.

• Concrete. If you immediately thought of the ugly gray stuff on your driveway that crumbles and cracks, or the subfloor in your basement, think again. Concrete flooring is completely different stuff. It can be colored and textured in many different ways, it’s as durable as the day is long, it’s easy to maintain, and it’s one of the best surfaces you could ask for to fend off allergens and dust mites. Low-VOC finishes and sealants are a must, obviously. Concrete can also be used for countertops and offers the same benefits in this application.

• Linoleum. Linoleum has been around for a long time—it was invented in England in the mid-1800s—and was widely used on floors and counters for some time, but its looks didn’t keep up with the times and it fell out of favor when newer, better-looking products came onto the market. But that’s all in the past. Made from natural, renewable materials like linseed oil, pine resin, and sawdust, linoleum is definitely enjoying a new-found popularity as a healthy and eco-friendly product—and it looks cooler than cool. Available as sheets and tiles, it’s easy to care for, it will last a long time—up to 40 years—and it’s biodegradable.

• Recycled-content carpet. These products can be made from a variety of materials, including recycled plastic bottles, wool, nylon, and cotton. Recycled plastic is the most common; the polyester fiber that results from plastic soda bottles looks a lot like the nylon carpet most people are familiar with, it’s stain resistant, and it comes in a variety of colors. Prices are similar to conventional carpet. Look for the Carpet and Rug Institute’s Green Label Plus certification, which indicates low-VOC products.

• Natural fiber carpet. Choices here range from wool to such plant fibers as sisal (which comes from the leaves of agave plants) and paper. They can strain a budget but the price can be worth it—wool carpets, if taken care of properly, can last at least 50 years and even longer.

Toxic

When shopping for linoleum, be sure to look for products labeled ”natural linoleum.” Vinyl flooring is sometimes referred to generically as linoleum; you don’t want to end up with the wrong stuff.

Stone—slate, limestone, sandstone—is also a good floor covering option. The most eco-friendly option is to go with products mined locally and sealed, if necessary, with low- or no-VOC sealants. Or look for reclaimed stone.

On the Walls

Building walls? You’ll need to consider two factors—the part that you see (wallboards) and the part you don’t (insulation). The materials used in both can affect indoor air quality.

Fiberglass is the insulation most used in conventional building. It’s made from silica sand spun into glass fibers and typically held together with an acrylic or phenol formaldehyde binder. Toxic soup, anyone?

Like asbestos, the tiny little fibers in fiberglass can break off into the air and lodge in skin, eyes, and lungs. Workers have to wear protective clothing, gloves, and a face mask while installing it. While those fibers might be safely contained behind finished walls, this isn’t a given. Plus, fiberglass insulation releases formaldehyde during and after installation.

Eco- and health-friendly alternatives to fiberglass insulation include cellulose, recycled denim, sheep wool, and non-toxic foam. There’s even an organic insulation that’s made from mushrooms combined with water, flour, and perlite.

If fiberglass is your only option—maybe due to costs as it’s typically the least expensive—look for formaldehyde-free recycled content batts or loose-fill products.

If you’re building a new home or doing a structural remodel on an existing home, you’ll want to go with eco-friendly gypsum board or wallboard if possible and have it installed with the least-toxic joint compound available. The additives used to make conventional gypsum board waterproof and fire resistant can contain VOCs; VOCs can also be emitted from the materials used to finish boards prior to wallcovering application.

Healthy wallcovering options include:

• Non-vinyl wallpaper. Most conventional wallpaper these days isn’t paper, it’s vinyl. You want to avoid it on your walls just like you would avoid it on your floors (and anywhere else, for that matter), and for the same reasons—it’s made from PVC and it offgasses VOCs. There are low-VOC vinyl wallpapers, but better choices include paper- and polyester-based products. Be sure to use a low-to no-VOC adhesive or traditional wallpaper paste when applying.

• Natural fiber wall coverings. Cork, sisal, untreated cotton, grass cloth (not grass at all, but actually woven honeysuckle vines), hemp, linen, and cellulose are all options here.

• Low- to no-VOC paint. Products claiming to contain low- to no-VOCs aren’t problem-free, as there aren’t mandatory standards for VOC content and even no-VOC paint isn’t completely VOC-free, but they’re substantially better than conventionally manufactured products. There are voluntary standards here, set by Green Seal, a nonprofit organization that establishes standards for eco-friendly products in various categories, paint among them. When shopping for paint in this category, look for products bearing the Green Seal certified label—there are a number of them, with selections ranging from such recognizable names as Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, and Dutch Boy to specialty and regional manufacturers. For a complete list of Green Seal certified paints, go to www.greenseal.org and click on “Find a Certified Product/Service.”

• Natural or non-toxic paint. Natural and non-toxic paints are made from natural raw ingredients including plant oils, resins, dyes, milk proteins, natural latex, lime, beeswax, earth and mineral pigments, and natural minerals like chalk and clay. There aren’t as many of these products, and since they cost more to formulate they’re more expensive, but if you want to avoid VOCs they’re the way to go.

• Plaster. Plaster can be lime or clay based; lime-based products are usually best left to the experts as they’re less forgiving. One clay-based plaster for DIY-ers is American Clay Earth Plaster. A highly rated product—it won the 2004 outstanding green product award from the National Association of Homebuilders—that doesn’t contain any VOCs, it’s made from such natural substances as potter’s clay and marble dust, and it comes in three finishes and in more than 30 earth-toned colors with such yummy names as Sanibel Sunset, Savannah Moss, and Snow Canyon.

• Stucco. Similar to plaster, but it’s usually best to leave this one to the experts as it can be tricky to apply—it goes on in several coats and it has to be cured properly or it won’t set up right.

Finally, a somewhat unusual option, but one that can add a lot of visual interest to a wall, is recycled metal tiles. Available in aluminum and brass in several different finishes, they can also be used on floors.

On the Counter (Tops)

There are so many alternatives to good old laminate for countertops that it seems almost crazy to even consider using it. Eco-friendly choices in this category include concrete, recycled glass tile, paper composite, recycled plastic, terrazzo, and wood. Green Home Guide has directories of products in many of these categories.

In and On the Cabinets

The structural elements—a.k.a. casework—on the majority of cabinets are made with particleboard and MDF, so a good start here is to find cabinets made from other products—FSC-certified plywood, formaldehyde-free MDF, wheat board, and bamboo are all possible options.

This might mean having cabinets custom built, but not necessarily. Cabinets crafted from eco-friendly bamboo, teak, and recycled lumber are all options—there aren’t many choices and they can be pretty pricey, but they are available.

Another option: how about doing it yourself by reclaiming and reusing cabinets from another source? It can be a great way to put old wood to new use and have complete control over the VOCs used in the process.

Finishing Touches

As previously mentioned, the finishes used on interiors like floors and cabinets can be as problematic as the materials they’re made from. Conventional finishes contain petroleum distillate-based solvents that keep them in liquid form until they’re applied.

There are natural, low- and no-VOC alternatives for these products, and if you have the option of using them (e.g., you’re refinishing things like cabinets or floors or they’re being installed unfinished), these are the products to go for. Natural wood finishes contain plant oils, beeswax, tree resins, and minerals; low- or no-VOC finishes are water-based but can still contain some petroleum-based ingredients.

The Least You Need to Know

• The things that lurk inside our homes can be as harmful to our health—and possibly even more so—than what we encounter outdoors.

• The toxins of most concern for human health are found in their highest concentrations indoors.

• Offgassing isn’t a huge concern in older homes, as the chemical emissions from the products used in them finished up a long time ago.

• If you plan to remodel an old home or build a new home, there are many things you can do to make your surroundings more in keeping with an organic, natural lifestyle.

Chapter 17

Organic Furniture

In This Chapter

• Why organic furniture makes sense

• Turning off the offgassing

• Turning down the flame retardants

• Finding eco-friendly, healthy furniture

Furniture used to be organic by definition—it was created from good things like solid hardwoods, padded with pillows and cushions crafted from and stuffed with natural fibers, and finished with nontoxic stains and polishes. Unfortunately, while you can still find some manufacturers using traditional materials, most of the furniture made today is far from this natural ideal.

Modern technology and consumer demand have largely created furniture that is anything but natural. Today, pressed woods are typically used in place of hardwoods and synthetic fabrics and stuffing are more common than not. As you can probably guess, the substances used to create them raise the same concerns as any product that’s created from or with synthetic chemicals.

That inexpensive futon and frame set you picked up as temporary sleeping quarters for overnight guests? Probably built from wood products held together with formaldehyde and stuffed with foam laced with at least a couple of toxic chemicals. That cute inflatable kiddie chair? It’s most likely made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) with toxic phthalates added to it to make it more flexible. Not exactly the sort of thing you want in your organic living environment.

Benefits of Organic Furniture

When it comes to creating organic surroundings, it only makes sense to go the pure and natural route with your furniture, too. Doing so not only helps to create a healthier interior for you and your loved ones because you’re cutting down on harmful chemicals, but it’s far easier on the environment as well.

Opt for natural, eco-friendly furniture and you’ll …

• Cut down on offgassing. Once again, formaldehyde is the key VOC issue here, as many furniture products are formed or held together with glues that contain this substance. (As a reminder, the EPA classifies formaldehyde as a Class B or probable human carcinogen.)

• Reduce exposure to other potentially harmful chemicals. Mattresses and upholstered furniture are often treated with flame retardants that contain polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDEs). PBDEs are similar in structure to PCBs, which were banned long ago, and they’re semivolatile organic compounds (SVOCs), which are even worse than VOCs as they release more slowly and over a longer period of time. PBDEs have been linked to thyroid and reproductive problems, immune system suppression, and fetal brain development problems, and are suspected carcinogens and hormone disruptors. Studies have shown that PBDEs accumulate in humans and pose potentially serious health risks. A widely reported Swedish study found low levels of PBDEs in breast milk even though these chemicals are banned there. Another study found significantly higher levels in the breast milk taken from 20 U.S. women. (Farmed fish have been found to have high levels of PBDEs—another good reason to eat wild fish instead.)

• Save a tree or two (maybe). We’ll discuss this in more detail in a moment, but going organic with furniture encompasses options like buying furniture made with recycled products and recycling furniture itself—buying used furniture and refinishing it, buying antiques, even repurposing old pieces.

• Make furnishing a home a little easier. No doubt about it, shopping for conventional home furnishings can be a mind-numbing experience, with hundreds of manufacturers and thousands of styles, finishes, and fabrics to consider. Not the case when shopping for natural or eco-friendly furniture. Choices in this category are definitely more limited, and if you’re the type who has a hard time making decisions, this can be a good thing.

The Dirt

The EPA points to composite wood products made with formaldehyde-based adhesives as likely the most significant source of formaldehyde in the home.

def•i•ni•tion

Semivolatile organic compounds (SVOCs) are different from VOCs in that they release as gas much more slowly and over a longer period of time, as opposed to VOCs, which offgass to their limit in the first days or weeks of a product’s lifetime. They’re just like VOCs in that they transfer to humans by contact and dust ingestion.

Unless you were lucky enough to inherit a houseful of antique furniture, you’re probably surrounded with pieces that are having a negative impact on your health. But there are ways to lessen their risks and many options to explore for future purchases.

Making the Most of What You Have

Clearing out everything in your house that poses a possible health hazard is rarely an option, so it makes sense to focus on cleaning up and safety-proofing the furniture and interiors you already own.

In general, it’s always a good idea to keep air moving through your home, as doing so helps reduce formaldehyde levels and other pollutants in indoor air. If you’ve recently bought furniture that contains manufactured wood products—particleboard, plywood, fiberboard, and the like—good ventilation is especially important as offgassing is at its highest when products are new.

It’s also important to know that some manufacturers are now using less-toxic glues and other substances in their products. While it’s probably safe to assume that the ones in your furniture are of the more toxic variety, as most still are, checking with the manufacturer or the retailer to see what you’re actually dealing with is a good idea.

IKEA, for example, is noted as one manufacturer that’s cut down on substances like toxic glues and other materials of concern in its products. In its brochure on social and environmental responsibility, the company states that it wants its products to be free from hazardous substances including substances prohibited by law or that IKEA itself has banned.

If you find exposed edges on furniture that you either know or suspect contains formaldehyde glue, coating those edges with a sealant will reduce the amount of formaldehyde that they release. The go-to product for this is AFM’s Safe Seal, available through many online retailers specializing in green and eco-friendly products.

Other steps you can take to make the furniture that’s already under your roof healthier include:

• Repairing rips and tears on upholstered furniture, cushions, and pillows. If you can see what’s under the fabric on any of these, even if it’s not foam, cover it up.

• Replacing upholstery and foam with PBDE-free products. Either do it yourself with organic cotton batting and fabrics, natural latex, or naturally fire-resistant wool, or find someone who works with these materials regularly or who is willing to source them or use materials that you provide. Definitely replace any items in which the foam is loose and/or crumbling—if it’s broken down, it’s sending off gases.

• Putting allergen-barrier cases on mattresses and pillows. Doing so not only helps reduce the amount of PBDE dust released, it can also protect against dust mites and other allergens. Make sure the cases are PVC-free.

As mentioned, older furniture typically isn’t much of a concern since any offgassing that took place happened long ago. However, if you’re thinking about refinishing any of it, you’ll want to use eco- and health-friendly paints, stains, and finishes. Look for low- or no-VOC products in all categories and follow label directions for removing old products and applying new ones.

Toxic

Old paint can contain lead, and all stains and finishes can irritate eyes and respiratory passages when they turn into sand and small particles during their removal. Avoid these issues by wearing safety glasses and a dust mask when working with old furniture, and be sure to keep children far away from the work area. If you’re working with painted furniture older than 20 years, assume that the paint contains lead and wear an approved respirator for lead removal, or take the furniture to a company that does this kind of work and have it done for you.

Concerns over Children’s Furniture

Children’s furniture is a special concern because so much of it is made with manufactured wood products. Baby and children’s mattresses are almost always filled with polyurethane foam, which, since it’s highly flammable, has to be treated with fire-retardant chemicals. And they’re often covered with PVC. Hmmm … PBDEs and phthalates. Not exactly good stuff for little ones.

As such, it’s usually a good idea to focus your healthy furniture efforts on children’s furniture first, both physically and financially. While mattresses made from organic materials are more expensive—they can cost as much as three times what conventional mattresses do—you can’t put a price on the peace of mind they deliver. If an organic mattress is out of reach financially, cheaper options include covering conventional mattresses with organic cotton mattress protectors, which will help keep VOCs at bay, and topping them with organic cotton mattress pads.

It only takes a few minutes to seal exposed edges on particleboard, so continually check any particleboard pieces in your child’s room for snags. If your child’s room is still housing a long-unused piece of furniture—say a changing table that hasn’t been used for anything more than storage for a while—move those pieces out or replace them with less-toxic ones if necessary.

It’s Organic

If you want to buy an organic cotton mattress for yourself or your children, you’ll need a doctor’s prescription. Pure cotton isn’t fireproof and federal law requires mattresses to be, so a pure cotton mattress can’t be sold without a doctor’s statement that you’re buying it because you or your children are sensitive to the chemicals used in conventional mattresses.

Making Better Furniture Choices

Furniture and food might not seem like they have a lot in common, but many of the same principles apply when buying both.

Buy Organic

You won’t find furniture labeled as organic because the designation doesn’t exist in this category. But the fabrics and filling used might be labeled as organic.

Organic furniture products to look for include:

• Mattresses. Organic cotton, organic wool, and natural latex are all good alternatives to the materials used to create conventional mattresses. Most organic mattresses have latex cores and are wrapped in wool (which is naturally fire retardant) or cotton or a combination of both; some are conventional innersprings wrapped in combinations of these materials. Names to look for here include RoyalPedic, Green Sleep, Obasan, and Naturaworld. NaturePedic makes organic cotton baby and children’s mattresses, from cradle to full size.

• Futons. Organic mattresses are pricey, there’s no question about it. Futons can be a cost-effective alternative, and you don’t have to use them on those funky, tough-to-sit-on folding frames; there are platforms and flat frames available, too. As with mattresses, you’ll need a doctor’s prescription to purchase futons made of all cotton.

• Upholstered furniture. Greener Lifestyles (www.greenerlifestyles.com) is just one company that offers chairs and sofas covered in organic fabrics and stuffed with natural latex foam. Others to look for include Furnature (www.furnature.com. ), Q Collection (www.qcollection.com), and Bean Products (www.beanproducts.com). As the name suggests, soft furniture (e.g., bean bags) is the emphasis at this last site, but there’s other furniture to look at there as well.

As is also the case with food and clothing, “organic” isn’t the be all, end all. There’s also an eco-friendly certification to consider when you’re shopping for wood furniture. The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), an international nonprofit that encourages sustainable forestry, offers FSC certification to companies that harvest wood in accordance to FSC’s requirements. Products made from FSC-certified wood can also carry the FSC label.

Buy a piece of furniture made from FSC-certified wood and you’ll actually be able to trace the wood to where it was harvested, as these products have to go through a chain-of-custody certification process in order to carry the FSC stamp. And if it’s polished with a no-VOC finish and upholstered with organic products—wool, cotton, and the like—you’ll have a piece of furniture that’s as close to being organic as you can get.

It’s Organic

If you’re shopping for wood furniture and you’re concerned about sustainability, check the Forest Certification Resource Center (www.certifiedwood.org) and the Forest Stewardship Council (www.fsc-info.org) for lists of FSC-certified furniture manufacturers. The Green Guide has also compiled a list; go to the Buying Guides section at Green Building Resource Guide (www.greenguide.com) and look for the one on wood furniture. Also consider furniture made from bamboo. Although technically not a wood (it’s a grass), it looks like wood and it is typically grown with few to no pesticides. And because it grows so fast, sustainability isn’t much of a concern.

Avoid Toxins

The simplest way to avoid toxins like formaldehyde and PBDEs is to buy furniture made from materials that don’t contain them.

Pieces made from metal or glass carry few concerns, as both are inert materials that don’t offgas. Solid wood furniture ranks right up there, too. However, keep in mind that the products used to paint or finish wood and metal can contain VOCs. As such, wood, metal, and glass furniture is not necessarily completely problem-free. (They would be, though, if you finished them yourself with toxin-free products.)

When shopping, keep an eye out for products made from or containing the following, and avoid them if at all possible:

• Furniture upholstery marked as stain resistant. Teflon is the product most often used to make fabrics stain resistant. Teflon contains perflurorchemicals (PFCs), which can break down into a toxic blood contaminant called perfluorooctanoic acid, or PFOA. There’s been some back and forth about whether fabric treatments and the like release a dangerous amount of PFOA, but in the research done on this substance, Enviroblog, a project of EWG’s Action Fund, reports that over 90 percent of Americans are showing PFOA in their blood, making it a prudent choice to limit your exposure to PFOA as much as possible.

• Inflatable furniture, artificial leather, and vinyl furniture covers. All can contain phthalate-based PVC.

• Furniture made from manufactured wood products—particleboard, fiberboard, plywood—all of which can contain formaldehyde glues.

Buy Local/Artisan

Buying from the source works as well with furniture as it does with organic food. The downside in both areas, unfortunately, is also the same: organic food can be tough to find, and so too can furniture. Locally produced and artisan furniture can be even more so.

Local newspapers and resource directories are a logical starting point. So too are craft fairs; look for artisanal furniture made from salvaged wood and metal, organic wool and cotton, and recycled fabrics.

Shop for Vintage

Vintage and antique furniture are two of the most eco-friendly choices you can make for furnishing a home. There’s no hard-and-fast distinction for when furniture becomes vintage; to some people anything that’s old is vintage; others argue that items need to be at least 20 years old. Antique furniture is technically anything made 100 years before the point when you buy it. Most people simply consider it to be furniture made around the turn of the twentieth century and before. Either way, if it’s old, it’s not racking up any additional energy, water, or other costs related to manufacturing. And it’s already offgassed as much as it’s going to.

The Dirt

If you can’t find furniture at places like craft fairs, look for people who work with wood in any size or shape. They might also make larger pieces or know others who do.

If you go the vintage/antique route, keep the following in mind:

• Cribs should meet current safety standards (for what these are, go to www.cpsc. gov, the online home of the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission).

• Vintage painted furniture produced before 1978 might contain lead. Older antiques—from the nineteenth century and earlier—most likely do not. Lead paint is an issue if it’s chipping off; you can seal it, but doing so can affect the appearance and the value of the piece. If you have small children around, you might want to think twice about these pieces or save their purchase for when your children are older.

Refinishing or restoring antiques is usually best left to the experts. If you’re thinking about refinishing or repainting twentieth-century pieces yourself, the safest approach is to assume that any paint you encounter contains lead and take the appropriate cautions when working with them.

Make Your Own

If you’re handy or know someone who is, why not make your own furniture from scratch or have it made for you? You can buy FSC-certified lumber as well as reclaimed and recycled products. When you’re working with wood that’s been recovered from other sources—rivers, lakes, reservoirs, old buildings—you’re working with wood that has a history, which can make these pieces even more special.

Organic upholstery materials and notions are getting easier to find, and a number of manufacturers and retailers are now offering them. Just a few of the sources for organic and eco-friendly fabrics include Green Sage, Furnature, and Heart of Vermont.

Recycle/Reclaim/Repurpose

Call it salvage-chic or dumpster-chic, creatively reusing or reimagining everyday objects into things completely different from what they started out being is not only a great way to come up with furniture and accessories that are truly one-of-a-kind items, it can reduce landfill deposits, which is always a good thing. According to the American Society of Interior Designers, 90 percent of everything manufactured in the United States ends up in landfills less than a year after production.

There’s even a magazine devoted to creative reuse. Check out ReadyMade, in print, or at www.Readymademag.com.

The Least You Need to Know

• Most commercially crafted furniture available today is far from being good for your health or the health of the environment.

• Choices in the organic furniture category are definitely limited, which can actually make it easier to furnish a home.

• If the furniture you want is beyond your budget, think about consigning pieces you already own to raise money for what you want.

• Many of the same principles for choosing organic food also apply to choosing organic furniture.

Chapter18

Housework Made Healthy

In This Chapter

• Clean … and toxic

• Evil brews

• Common chemical cleaning culprits

• The Hit List—products to avoid at all costs

• The Greatest Hits List—products to use instead

Whether you like cleaning your home and doing the laundry or you consider both activities necessary evils, there’s nothing like the feeling—and the smell—of a clean house and clean clothes. There’s something simply soul-satisfying about it.

But the clean smell and feeling can, unfortunately, come at a cost. The commercial cleaning products we have grown to depend on for making our homes and our clothing clean and fresh can also contain some of the most toxic ingredients out there. What’s worse, products labeled as “safe,” “natural,” and even “organic” can be anything but.

Aisles of Clean … and Toxic

Check out the cleaning products section at any store and the array of cans and bottles is overwhelming (not to mention the aroma, but we’ll get to that in a minute). There’s seemingly something for every cleaning job, big to small, with new products joining the ranks all the time, thanks to our squeaky-clean obsession. Longing for your countertops to sparkle? Never fear, there are cleaners made just for the job. Stainless-steel appliances need polishing? There are products made just for that, too.

Now, being the good, conscientious consumer you are, you’re going to read the warning labels on the products you buy and use—most have them. When you do, you’ll probably see wording like “can be harmful if inhaled or touched” and “may cause skin irritation.” But these labels can’t and won’t tell you everything there is to know about the potential hazards posed by these products.

For example, the glass cleaner that makes your windows so sparkly clean can contain ammonia—many do. Ammonia not only irritates airways on its own, it can and will release toxic chloramine gases if you were to accidentally mix it with a cleaning product containing chlorine, like bleach.

The Dirt

You definitely don’t want to inhale chloramine gases, and here’s why: when inhaled, the gases react with the moisture in the respiratory tract. As they do, they release ammonia, hydrochloric acid, and oxygen-free radicals. At low levels of concentration and exposure, you might only feel some mild respiratory tract irritation. In higher concentrations, this evil brew can corrode the respiratory tract and result in pneumonitis (inflammation of the tissues in the lungs), edema, and even death.

Other Substances of Concern

We kicked off our discussion with chloramine gases because they relate to the use of two of the most common household cleaners—ammonia and chlorine. Ammonia and chlorine are used on their own as single ingredients and they’re found in many commercial formulations as well, which is why it’s especially important to read the labels on these products so you don’t accidentally combine them.

But substances to be concerned about in cleaning products don’t stop there. Here’s a rundown of some of the others that are commonly found:

• Fragrance. Some cleaning products are formulated without fragrance, but most aren’t, as consumers have been conditioned to judge cleanliness first and foremost by how things smell. What’s more, the fragrances in many cleaning products aren’t delicate and light, they’re strong enough to knock you over, especially if you’re sensitive to them. The chief culprit here is our old friend phthalates, which can lurk undisclosed in products because the formulations used to create fragrance are considered trade secrets. As such, manufacturers don’t have to list the specific ingredients; all they have to do is state that products contain fragrance.

• Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEs). These chemical surfactants are common ingredients in detergents and disinfectants. They are made from and they break down into substances called alkylphenols, two of which are suspected hormone disruptors because they mimic estrogen in the body.

• Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs). Also chemical surfactants, they’ve been linked to reproductive defects and liver and kidney damage. They’re banned in Canada and the EU; in 2006 Wal-Mart announced it would avoid stocking products that contain them.

• Butyl cellosolve, a.k.a. butyl glycol or ethylene glycol monobutyl ether (EGBE). This chemical solvent is a common ingredient in glass cleaners, spot removers, air fresheners, oven cleaners, and general degreasers. Some animal studies have linked it to reproductive problems, including reduced fertility, embryo death, testicular damage, and birth defects. In humans it’s known to irritate mucous membranes and it’s been linked to liver and kidney damage as well as neurological problems. It’s a chemical of special concern as the skin readily absorbs it.

• Diethanolamine (DEA). This chemical appears in various forms—you’ll also see it as diethylolamine, hydroxydiethylamine, and diolamine, among other names. They all work to create a creamy texture and foaming action in shampoos and body washes, which is where you’ll often see them, but they also crop up in all-purpose cleaning products that suds up when you use them. They’re problematic because they can react with nitrites, which can be included in products as nondisclosed preservatives or as contaminants, to form nitrosamines, a class of chemical compounds long known to have carcinogenic properties. Worse yet, they also penetrate the skin pretty easily.

def•i•ni•tion

Surfactants, or surface acting agents, are chemicals that, when dissolved in water, enable products to remove dirt from surfaces.

The Dirt

According to the EPA, poison control centers in the United States receive a call concerning poison exposure every 13 seconds, with 40 percent of these calls involving children under three years of age. Household cleaning products, including bath and kitchen disinfectants and drain cleaners, accounted for about 10 percent of the incidents involving children that were reported in 2000.

This list literally just scratches the surface of the list of hazardous ingredients that lurk inside some of the most commonly used cleaning products. There are tons of others—ammmonium chloride, triethanolamine, dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride—the list goes on and on. And we haven’t even skimmed the surface of the environmental issues related to these products and others. Phosphates are probably the chemicals you’re most familiar with in regard to pollution concerns, since they’ve been the focus of so much attention. Most laundry detergents today are phosphate-free, but this doesn’t mean phosphates don’t show up in other cleaning products—in particular, in automatic dishwasher detergent.

APEs (you met them previously) are also a concern, as they don’t biodegrade easily. Nonylphenol, one of the alkyphenols used to make APEs, has been found in water, and studies have reported health problems in fish living in nonylphenol-contaminated water, including altered reproduction, sexual changes, and lower survival rates.

Company Health, Not Consumer Health

Why are cleaning products allowed to contain such toxic ingredients? For pretty much the same reason harmful ingredients can show up in cosmetics and body and personal care products.

With the exception of pesticides, the chemicals that can be used in the home are virtually regulation-free. The companies that manufacture them don’t have to do health or safety studies before releasing their products to the marketplace. Nor do they have to monitor these products when they’re in use. And most of the information related to these products is considered confidential and proprietary, which shields it from government and public review.

There is federal legislation that pertains to toxic substances—the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA) of 1976. Congress passed it to give the EPA the authority to track the industrial chemicals produced or imported to the United States at the time (some 60,000 or so), and to track new chemicals developed with, as the EPA puts it, “either unknown or dangerous characteristics.”

This act allows the EPA to screen chemicals and, if necessary, require reporting on or testing of any chemicals that might be an environmental or human health hazard, and to ban substances if warranted. Problem is, the agency can’t ask for data or health studies unless it can show the substance might be hazardous, and there’s nothing in the law that requires manufacturers to test new substances—or old, for that matter; the 60,000 or so chemicals that were on the market when the act was passed were deemed safe with little to no basis for this determination.

The Dirt

An estimated 20,000 chemicals have entered the marketplace since the TSCA was passed in 1976.

Since the EPA isn’t authorized to do this type of due diligence on its own, about the only source of this information would be the manufacturers, and since they’re not required to do any testing, any action the EPA might even consider taking pretty much ends before it could even begin.

Things could change, however. A bill that would substantially overhaul the TSCA, noted by the Environmental Working Group to be “widely regarded as the weakest of all major environmental laws on the books today,” was introduced in both the House and the Senate in May 2008. Titled the Kid-Safe Chemicals Act of 2008, it calls for reducing everyone’s exposure to chemical toxic substances by requiring, in part, that …

• Industrial chemicals be safe for children and other vulnerable groups.

• New chemicals be tested for safety before release to market.

• Existing chemicals be tested for safety to remain on the market.

• Regular biomonitoring tests be done to determine chemical presence and amounts in people.

• Health and safety data be regularly updated and be publicly available.

For the complete wording on the act—it’s interesting reading and not too difficult to plow through—go to www.ewg.org/files/Kid-Safe-HR6100.pdf.

Cleaning Up Your Cleaning

We could go on and on and tell you lots and lots more about the evils related to cleaning products, but we think we’ve done enough to drive home the basic point that the majority of conventional cleaning products have no place in organic living. So let’s instead flip the switch to the positive side and look at what you can do to clean up your cleaning and reduce the toxins around your home.

Clear Cleaner Clutter

Clearing the clutter usually means organizing; it does here as well, but the focus is on the clutter of cleaning products residing under your sink, in your laundry room, and anywhere else you store these products. (A note here: because they’re all good at offgassing as well, they should always be stored well away from food products.)

The average home has anywhere from 10 to 20 cleaning products stashed in various locations. Are they all really necessary? Absolutely not. In fact, it’s possible to clean your entire home with a very short list of highly effective products. They can be completely natural—and if you choose to go this route, there’s much more on it in Chapter 19—or you can simply substitute what you have now with better choices—we’ll give you some options to consider later in this chapter.

Either way, it’s definitely a good idea to phase out the products that are the worst offenders. The following are the products you definitely want to get rid of:

• Ammonia, and any products that contain ammonia as an ingredient. As noted above, ammonia is hazardous on its own and especially hazardous when combined with bleach.

• Chlorine bleach, and any products that contain chlorine bleach as an ingredient. The easiest way to avoid combining bleach and ammonia is to not have anything around that contains these substances in the first place.

• Oven cleaners. Oven cleaners can contain sodium hydroxide, which is extremely irritating to eyes, nose, and throat and can burn these tissues on contact.

• Drain cleaners. These products also often contain sodium hydroxide.

• All-purpose cleaners containing sudsing agents diethanolamine (DEA) and triethanolamine (TEA).

• Toilet bowl cleaners. In addition to caustic ingredients like lye, toilet bowl cleaners also often contain ammonia or hydrochloric acid, which is highly corrosive, highly irritating to the skin and eyes, and can damage the kidneys and liver.

• Any products containing phosphates, which contribute to algae blooms in our waterways and can kill off fish. Dishwasher detergent is where you’re most likely to find it.

• Products containing sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate. As previously noted, this common sudsing agent can penetrate the skin and cause dermatitis. It can also exacerbate skin conditions like eczema; if your hands feel itchy and dry after washing the dishes, SLS is the likely culprit.

• Any products marked “danger,” “poison,” or “warning.” These designations mean these products rank high on the list of ones to avoid. Products marked “danger” or “poison” are the worst in terms of toxicity and health concerns; “warning” denotes products considered moderately toxic.

The following are the products to consider banishing from your laundry room:

• Fabric softener and fabric softener sheets. Yes, they make clothes nice and soft and they reduce static cling, but if you’re wearing organic clothing you shouldn’t need them, as they were designed with synthetic fabrics in mind. Fragrance is the primary culprit with these products. The stew of chemicals—including such neurotoxins as toluene and trimethylbenzene—used to create their scents can cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, skin irritation, and hormone disruption.

• Conventional detergents. They probably contain NPEs and might contain another common surfactant, linear alkylate sulfonate (LAS). Usually noted as an “anionic surfactant,” it can cause the same problems as other surfactants.

• Spot and stain removers. They often contain NPEs.

• Chlorine bleach. According to the American Association of Poison Control Centers, chlorine-based bleaches were responsible for almost 20,000 poisoning incidents involving children in 2005.

Many cities and states have household waste collection programs, which are the safest way to dispose of these materials. To find programs where you live, try the recycling/ reuse locator at Earth 911’s website (www.earth911.org). If there’s nothing available in your area, check with local or state solid waste officials to see what they recommend. Try to avoid tossing these products into the trash—while federal law allows it, doing so should be the last resort instead of the first line of attack. And never pour any of them down the drain or into a storm sewer.

Use Less, Less Often

Unless you’re using completely natural cleaning products, which you’ll learn more about in Chapter 19, the products you use will still have chemicals in them that might present some health risks, as so few of them have been tested. What is the best way to avoid problems? Use less of them overall.

One good all-purpose cleaner can handle most of the cleaning jobs around the house. Couple it with some good old-fashioned elbow grease and you might be surprised at what you can accomplish.

Better Product Choices

There’s a healthy assortment of green cleaning products available today, but there’s a definite “caveat emptor” factor to be aware of here, as the terms used to describe their contents are undefined and unregulated. Like cosmetics, body care products, and personal care products, cleaning products can be labeled as organic if they simply contain some organic ingredients … and even if they don’t. Remember that organic can also refer to carbon-based chemicals, and often does when it comes to cleaning products. Claims such as “nontoxic,” “eco-friendly,” and “natural” are more positioning lines and marketing ploys than anything else, unless they’re backed up with specifics such as information on what the products actually do (and don’t) contain.

That said, there are certifications to know about when looking for safer, greener cleaning products. Look for certifications from the following:

• Design for the Environment. Products bearing EPA’s Design for the Environment logo are certified to contain ingredients that are considered the least risky in their chemical class.

• EcoLogo. Certification requires products to meet strict environmental standards. Go to the EcoLogo website (www.ecologo.com) for lists of certified products and the criteria used for certification, organized by category.

• Green Seal. Cleaning products certified by Green Seal can’t contain known carcinogens or chemicals that are reproductive system toxins. They can’t be skin or eye irritants or contribute to smog and ozone, nor can they contain substances that deplete ozone.

Also keep in mind that even products that contain plant-based or natural ingredients aren’t necessarily safe. They can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.

The following green cleaning products are generally recognized as leaders in this product category. Remember, there’s no organic certification for cleaning products; ingredients can be certified organic and products can state they’re organic if they simply contain some organic ingredients. Read the labels, do your research, and determine your own level of comfort with the ingredients. Also remember this list is only meant to be a resource; it’s by no means comprehensive. New products are steadily being introduced.

Company information (where available) and websites are listed at the first mention.

The Dirt

You might see ”caution” on the labels of products marketed as natural and green. Of the words of warning, it’s the one that indicates ingredients of least harm. There may be some skin, eye, or respiratory irritation, but they probably won’t cause significant health problems if ingested.

All-Around Cleaner

Look for plant-based, biodegradable, and phosphate-free products, such as the following:

• Mrs. Meyer’s All-Purpose Cleaner (www.mrs.meyers.com). According to their website, all Mrs. Meyer’s products contain naturally derived products when possible, are fragranced with natural essential oils, are biodegradable or break down to non-harmful substances, are phosphate-free, and are not tested on animals. Products come in five fragrances—basil, lavender, lemon verbena, baby blossom, and geranium.

• AFM SafeChoice Super Clean (www.afmsafecoat.com). AFM offers a range of healthy household cleaners. More information on all products, including spec sheets detailing ingredients and uses, is at their website.

• Aubrey Organics Earth Aware Household Cleanser (www.aubrey-organics.com). Formulated with soap bark extract and coconut oil soap. Can be used on dishes, floors, countertops, and as a laundry detergent.

• BioShield Vinegar Cleaner (www.bioshieldpaint.com). Made from organic vinegar, citric acid, sugar-based cleaning agents, and water.

• Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Soap (www.drbronner.com). Dr. Bronner himself said that his soap could be used for anything and everything, and when you read the label it’s hard to dispute him. One of the few cleaning products to be USDA certified organic. Also from Dr. Bronner is Sal Suds, an all-purpose cleaner made from plant-based surfactants.

• Ecover All-Purpose Cleaner (www.ecover.com). According to the website, all products are developed using carefully selected raw materials from vegetable and mineral sources that guarantee maximum biodegradability.

• OurHouse Heavy Duty Cleaner (www.ourhouseworks.com). All products are readily biodegradable; some are Green Seal Certified. Also makes surface sanitizer, carpet and upholstery cleaner, and mineral and metal cleaner.

• GreenWorks Natural All-Purpose Cleaner and Natural Dilutable Cleaner (www.greenworkscleaners.com). Clorox recently introduced a line of cleaners that the company states was formulated to meet three core principles: ingredients must come from renewable resources, be biodegradable, and be free of petrochemicals. Almost all carry the Design for the Environment label.

• Seventh Generation Natural All Purpose Cleaner (www.seventhgeneration.com ). The granddaddy of this product category with a complete line of nontoxic household products. If Seventh Generation doesn’t make it, you probably don’t need it.

• Shaklee Basic H2 Organic Super Cleaning Concentrate and Organic Super Cleaning Wipes (www.shaklee.com). Part of Shaklee’s Get Clean line of non-toxic and natural cleaning choices, described as containing no VOCs and formulated without hazardous chemicals.

• Vermont Soapworks Liquid Sunshine Non-Toxic Cleaner (www. vermontsoap.com). Multipurpose cleaning concentrate made from castile liquid soap. Can also be used to wash clothes.

• Naturally Yours All-Purpose Cleaner (www.naturallyyoursclean.com). Naturally Yours offers an extensive line of eco-responsible cleaning products, all made with ingredients derived from nature. Noted as nonpolluting, biodegradable or naturally degradable, nontoxic, nonhazardous, noncarcinogenic, dye free and artificial fragrance free.

• Bio Pac Super Citrus Cleaner, Super Concentrated Pine Cleaner, and Household Cleaner Citrus Fresh with Tea Tree Oil (www.bio-pac.com). Billed as environmentally friendly, completely biodegradable, and safe for the chemically sensitive.

• Earth Friendly Products Ecos Parsley All-Purpose Cleaner (www.ecos.com ). Earth Friendly Products offers a good selection of plant-based household products that are all natural, made from replenishable resources, and scented with essential oils.

• BioKleen’s Super Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner & Degreaser (www. biokleen.com). Manufacturer of biodegradable, non-toxic cleaners for a variety of applications, household included.

Dishwasher Soap and Dish Soap

Look for plant-based and phosphate-free products, such as:

• Mrs. Meyer’s Dish Soap, Automatic Dishwashing Liquid

• BioShield Dishwash Soap, Dishwasher Concentrate

• Ecover Dishwashing Liquids, Dishwasher Tablets, Automatic Dishwashing Powder

• Greenworks Natural Dishwashing Liquid

• OurHouse Liquid Dish Soap, Concentrated Dishwasher Complete

• Seventh Generation Natural Dish Liquid, Automatic Dishwasher Powder, Automatic Dishwasher Gel

• Shaklee Dish Wash Concentrate, Dish Wash Automatic Concentrate

• Naturally Yours Dishwashing Detergent

• Earth Friendly Products Dishmate, Wave Powder and Gel Dishwashing Machine Detergent and Wave Tablets

• Bio Pac Automatic Dish Powder, Concentrated Dishwashing Liquid

• BioKleen Dishwash Liquid, Automatic Dish Powder, Automatic Dish Gel

Surface and Glass Cleaner

None of these products contain ammonia or butyl cellosolve.

• Mrs. Meyer’s Window Spray, Window Wipes, Countertop Spray

• Aubrey Organics Liquid Sparkle

• BioShield Glass Cleaner

• Ecover Glass and Surface Cleaner

• OurHouse Shiny Surface Cleaner

• GreenWorks Natural Glass & Surface Cleaner

• Seventh Generation Natural Glass & Surface Cleaner

• Naturally Yours Glass & Window Cleaner

• Earth Friendly Window Cleaner

• BioKleen Glass Kleen

Toilet Bowl Cleaner

These products all offer safer cleaning power than conventional toilet bowl cleaners.

• Mrs. Meyer’s Toilet Bowl Cleaner

• AFM SafeChoice Safety Clean

• BioShield Toilet Bowl Cleaner

• Ecover Toilet Cleaner

• GreenWorks Natural Toilet Bowl Cleaner

• Seventh Generation Toilet Bowl Cleaner

• Naturally Yours Clinging Toilet Bowl Cleaner

• Bio Pac Automatic Bowl Cleaner Chlorine Free

Bathroom Surfaces, Tile, Showers

These products contain gentle, safe cleaning agents instead of ammonia, DEA, or butyl cellosolve.

• Mrs. Meyer’s Shower Cleaner and Surface Wipes

• AFM SafeChoice Safety Clean

• Ecover Limescale Remover, Bathroom Cleaner, Cream Scrub

• GreenWorks Natural Bathroom Cleaner

• Seventh Generation Shower Cleaner, Tub & Tile Cleaner

• Naturally Yours Basin, Tub, & Tile Cleaner

• Bio Pac Shower Cleaner

• Earth Friendly Creamy Cleanser

Laundry Detergents

Look for products made with vegetable-based ingredients, either fragrance free or scented with essential oils.

Product choices here include:

• Mrs. Meyer’s Laundry Detergent

• Ecover Laundry Wash, Delicate Wash

• OurHouse Concentrated Scented and Unscented Laundry Care

• Seventh Generation Natural Powdered Laundry Detergent, Natural Liquid Laundry Detergent 2X Concentrate, Baby Laundry Liquid Detergent, Delicate Care Laundry Detergent

• Shaklee Fresh Laundry Liquid Concentrate HE Compatible, Fresh Laundry Fragrance Free Concentrate, HE Compatible, Fresh Laundry Concentrate Powder, Fresh Laundry Concentrate Powder Fragrance Free

• Naturally Yours Laundry Detergent

• Dr. Bronner’s Liquid Castile Soaps

• Bio Pac Ultra Laundry Liquid, Ultra Laundry Powder

• Earth Friendly Products Ecos Liquid and Powder Laundry Detergent, Baby Liquid Laundry Soap

• BioKleen Laundry Powder, Laundry Liquid

Bleaches and Stain Removers

Look for hydrogen peroxide or sodium percarbonate-based products, also known as oxygen bleach, which is gentler and less toxic than chlorine bleach. Choices here include:

• Mrs. Meyer’s Oxygen Bleach Stain Remover

• Ecover Stain Remover, Non-Chlorine Bleach Liquid and Powder

• Seventh Generation Free & Clear Chlorine-Free Bleach

• Naturally Yours Natural Bleach, Naturally Yours All-Purpose Spotter

• Bio Pac Non-Chlorine Bleach Powder

• Earth Friendly Products OXO Brite Non-Chlorine Bleach, Zainz, Stain & Odor Remover

• BioKleen Oxygen Bleach Plus

Fabric Softeners

Look for vegetable-based products, scented with essential oils if at all.

• Mrs. Meyer’s Fabric Softener and Dryer Sheets

• Ecover Fabric Softener

• Seventh Generation Natural Fabric Softener

• Shaklee Soft Fabric Concentrate, Soft Fabric Fragrance-Free Dryer Sheets

• Naturally Yours Fabric Softener

• Bio Pac Ultra Fabric Softener

The Least You Need to Know

• The commercial cleaning products we have come to depend on for making our homes and clothing clean and fresh can also contain some of the most toxic ingredients.

• Two of the most common household cleaners—ammonia and chlorine—can create a toxic cloud when mixed.

• There is no organic certification for cleaning products and very few regulations regarding what they can contain.

• There are numerous safer, greener products that you can use, with more coming on the market every day.

Chapter19

Clean It Green!

In This Chapter

• Cleaning, organically

• Must-have ingredients for cleaning green

• More handy ingredients

• Cleaning green recipes

If you want a sparkling clean house that’s as toxin-free as it can get, making and using your own cleaning products is the way to go. Plus, instead of relying on nasty chemicals to provide that clean, fresh scent, you’ll create it naturally. What more could you ask for?

In this chapter, you’ll learn how you can clean your entire home using cheap (really cheap!), effective, natural products. We also suggest that you pick up a copy of the Complete Idiot’s Guide to Green Cleaning that is scheduled for publication in February, 2009.

Clean and Basic

It wasn’t that many years ago that people used little more than a handful of simple substances and some elbow grease to keep houses spic and span. They relied on these substances because they worked. And they still do.

You might have to scrub a little harder or wait a little longer for them to do their job, but they’ll definitely get the job done.

We live in a niche world, where there’s seemingly a product for every single task. Switch over to making your own cleaning products, and you can say goodbye to a long list of those niche products—toilet bowl cleaners, oven cleaners, furniture and metal polishes, air fresheners … the list goes on. Doing so will not only save you a bunch of money—making your own cleaning products costs about a tenth as much as buying their commercial equivalents—it also clears your home of some of the most toxic chemicals used in product formulation.

The Dirt

Most of the commercial cleaning products on the market today didn’t exist 75 years ago.

Gather up the following ingredients and you’ll be on your way to a healthy home environment that will look great and smell great, too.

White Distilled Vinegar

Vinegar could be considered the superpower in the world of natural cleaners, as it can be used for so many things. And it’s incredibly cheap. No matter where you shop, you should be able to find a big bottle of it for pennies. Buy store brands and you’ll spend even less.

Vinegar gets its cleaning power from a weak form of acid—in this case, acetic acid—that is created when sugars or starches ferment.

Acetic acid is corrosive and will damage some surfaces it comes into contact with—certain metals, ceramic tile, and other porous stones among them. The acetic acid in vinegar is present in such a small amount that it won’t etch surfaces (although you do want to keep it away from things like tile, as it can harm them) but it will remove substances from them—mineral scale, in particular, which often builds up in water taps, kettles, shower heads, and so on from the minerals in water.

def•i•ni•tion

Acetic acid, also known as ethanoic acid, is the organic chemical compound that gives vinegar its distinctive smell and taste.

As an example, if the flow from your shower head is more of a trickle, take the head off and plunk it into a container full of vinegar. (If you don’t want the vinegar smell to permeate your house while the shower head soaks, use a covered container.)

Let it sit overnight. By the time you’re ready to take your next shower, the shower head should be clean and clear of hard water buildup. If there’s still some left, use an old toothbrush to scrub it away. Incredibly easy, and so much safer and healthier than commercial mineral deposit removers.

Vinegar’s acidic nature also means it has antibacterial properties. Worried about germs? Ditch the antibac wipes and sprays (and the toilet bowl cleaner, too) and get out the vinegar instead.

More great uses for vinegar include the following (these are just the tip of the iceberg; the list of what you can do with vinegar goes on forever):

• Odor zapping. You might not like the smell of vinegar, but if you need to get rid of another smell in your house, simply set out a small bowl of vinegar in the vicinity of the aroma. Just sliced up an onion or a bulb of garlic and your hands reek? Wash them down with a little vinegar, rinse them thoroughly, and then wash with soap and water.

• Soil testing. Since vinegar’s an acid, it reacts with substances that aren’t; e.g., alkalis. You can use this chemical knowledge to see what’s in your soil. Just grab a little dirt and drip vinegar on it. If the vinegar starts to fizzle, you’ve got alkaline soil.

• Mold zapping. Have a corner in your shower that’s looking a little dark? Spray it with vinegar.

• Cat repelling. There’s nothing worse than digging in your flower beds and hitting cat pee and poop. Spray a little vinegar around your plants and it may keep the kitties away. Spray around the border of your garden, not on the plants or close to them, as the acid can hurt them.

• Shower-scum zapping. Soap is alkaline, vinegar is acidic. You can keep soap residue from building up on shower walls and doors by spraying them down with vinegar, either straight or mixed 50/50 with water if the smell gets to you. Just spray, scrub with a soft scrubbie if necessary, and rinse with clear water. If you’ve got a ring around the bathtub, simply fill it with hot water and add a couple of cups of vinegar. Let it sit for a few hours and then drain. The ring won’t be gone, but it will be a lot easier to remove.

• Window shining. Wash your windows with a 50/50 blend of warm water and vinegar for streak-free glass.

• Water-ring removing. Were guests at your last party not so careful about where they put their drinks? You can remove water rings from wood furniture by rubbing them with equal parts of vinegar and olive oil. Work with the grain and polish when done.

• Fabric softening. Vinegar is a natural fabric softener. Just add half a cup to the rinse cycle.

It’s Organic

Another effective approach for dispatching germs, and one the EPA itself even recommends, is plain old soap and water. Use castile soap and it’s an eco-friendly and natural approach as well.

You can use vinegar alone or combined with some other substances. Baking soda and vinegar, for example, is one of the most effective drain cleaners you could ask for. We’ll give you this recipe and some other mixtures to try later on in this chapter.

Always use plain white vinegar for cleaning purposes—not cider vinegar or malt vinegar or balsamic vinegar or anything else. It’s the cheapest, and the other stuff can stain.

Vinegar is so versatile that it makes sense to have it ready to use at all times. Mix equal parts vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Or simply use it straight out of the bottle.

Baking Soda

Baking soda, a.k.a. sodium bicarbonate, is a naturally occurring mineral that in the United States primarily comes from an ore called trona (it’s created elsewhere by combining salt brine and limestone).

Baking soda is alkaline in nature, but just barely (7 is a neutral pH; baking soda weighs in at around 8.1), which makes it the flip side of vinegar. As such, it neutralizes acids like vinegar; it also balances acids and alkalis. If you’ve got hard water, adding baking soda to your wash will balance the pH level in the water and help the detergent do a better job. Adding baking soda to swimming pools does the same thing—it balances the pH and helps keep the water clear.

def•i•ni•tion

pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity in a substance. Water has a pH of 7; numbers lower than this are acids, higher than this are alkalis.

Baking soda is as much of an all-arounder as vinegar is, and it’s used in many of the same ways. It’s a great odor eliminator—a box of Arm & Hammer in the fridge or freezer is almost ubiquitous; sprinkling some on your carpet before you vacuum will help get rid of pet odors and any others that might have settled in.

Baking soda is also a fantastic all-purpose cleaner, and especially so when you need a little extra oomph, as its slightly gritty texture makes it a mild abrasive. As previously noted, when combined with vinegar and regularly applied to drains, it’s the best way to keep clogs from forming (and to keep from having to buy caustic drain cleaners).

Because of baking soda’s chemical composition—it’s an alkali or a base rather than an acid—it will work better for some cleaning jobs than others. It’s the substance of choice when you need to attack dirt and grime that is oil- or fat-based.

def•i•ni•tion

In chemistry, a base is a substance that can accept protons. Bases are the chemical opposite of acids.

Washing Soda

Go up a little higher on the pH scale and you’ll find washing soda (sodium carbonate), which weighs in at a pH of 11. This makes it more caustic than baking soda. It also means it’s even more effective at doing the same things that baking soda does, but you also have to be more careful when using it. If you were to work with it without gloves (definitely not the recommended approach; gloves should always be used around washing soda), your fingers would start to feel slippery as the washing soda literally dissolves the oils in your skin.

Also be sure to keep it away from no-wax floors and aluminum surfaces and products, as it can discolor them. And don’t use it on fiberglass sinks, tubs, or tile.

Washing soda is a great product to have on hand for tougher cleaning jobs, especially outdoors where grime can really build up. Mix up half a cup of it in a gallon of warm to hot water and use it for …

• Cleaning plastic and/or wrought iron outdoor furniture. For plastic furniture, simply sponge it on, let it sit for a few minutes (longer for really dirty jobs), and then rinse thoroughly. For wrought-iron furniture, sponge on and scrub with a brush to get it into all the nooks and crannies. Rinse thoroughly. Simply wipe down plastic cushions and rinse.

• Grill racks. Remove racks and place in a utility tub or other container large enough to hold the racks (a large plastic trash or leaf bag works for this, too). Cover with the washing soda and water mix and let sit overnight. Wash with soap and water, and then rinse thoroughly. (Do not use on aluminum racks, as noted, as it can discolor them.)

• Garbage cans. Washing soda will clean and deodorize. Wash surfaces inside and out and rinse.

Washing soda can be tough to find as it’s not in wide use these days. Check in the laundry detergent section; if it’s not there, you might have to request it. Look for a box that looks like Arm & Hammer Baking Soda; if your store carries it, this will probably be the brand that they stock.

Toxic

Don’t wash outdoor furniture on wooden decks when using washing soda because the washing soda can remove the finish. Don’t use washing soda on aluminum outdoor furniture for the same reason. Keep it away from painted surfaces as well, as it can strip the paint—in fact, a washing soda solution is often used for this, and for stripping wax from floors.

Liquid Soap

A mild liquid soap is a good thing to have on hand for general cleaning purposes. As mentioned, the EPA considers it as effective as an antibacterial product for a surface cleaner. You’ll see it as an ingredient in some of the recipes that follow. Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soap is a good choice and widely available. You can also use one of the products recommended for washing dishes in Chapter 18.

More Green Cleaners

The four substances discussed previously will handle almost every cleaning job around the house. Think of them as the “fab four,” because that’s truly what they are.

That said, there are some other substances that are handy to have around:

• Borax. Borax is sodium borate, another naturally occurring mineral. It is alkaline like baking soda but has a pH of about 9.5, which makes it a tougher customer than baking soda but not as tough as washing soda. It will do the same things the sodas do—soften water, remove odors, clean up oils and grime. It also has antifungal and antibacterial properties. You’ll find borax in the laundry detergent section of the supermarket, since its most common use is in the laundry—it’s a traditional additive to wash water. You can use it pretty much anywhere you’d use baking soda, but its higher alkaline level puts it in the “keep away from children” arena. It can irritate the eyes and can be harmful if swallowed.

• Lemon juice. Lemon juice, like vinegar, is an acid, and it can be used in similar ways. Since vinegar is so much cheaper, it’s more the go-to product than lemon juice is, but lemon smells a lot better.

• Oxygen bleach. This is the stuff you want to use instead of chlorine bleach, always. You’ll find recommendations for brands to look for in Chapter 18.

• Tea tree essential oil. Tea tree oil has antibacterial and antifungal properties. It has a somewhat antiseptic aroma that people tend to love or hate.

• Lavender essential oil. Lavender also has antibacterial and antifungal properties. And it smells good.

• Club soda. Club soda contains sodium citrate. It works like other soda-based products do but is the gentlest of them all.

Tools and Containers

You’ll need some simple and basic tools and containers for mixing cleaning applications. If there’s a janitor’s supply store nearby, you can pick up commercial versions of the following for less money than what you’ll spend in retail stores and they’ll probably last longer. If not, you can find the following almost anywhere:

• Spray bottles, and if you like them, squirt bottles. Buy new ones, do not reuse any that once contained other cleaning products. It’s difficult to completely remove substances from plastic bottles, and if they’re not completely gone you might be mixing some things together that shouldn’t be mixed.

• Indelible marker. For labeling your mixes.

• Microfiber cloths. These babies sometimes get a bad rap because they’re not natural—they’re made from petrochemical-based fabric. But they’re reusable and they’re so effective and efficient that you won’t have to use as many products, both factors that pretty much negate their origins. If you have trouble rendering your mirrors and windows streak-free, these cloths will put those problems in the past, as they’re the most effective product for soaking up water—the source of those streaks—that you could ask for. If you’re having trouble getting your laminate floors streak-free, look for a mop with a microfiber head.

• Squeegee. If you haven’t used one, you’ll be amazed at how much faster you’ll be able to clean windows and mirrors. Keep a small one in the shower to whisk away water after you shower to avoid mildew and keep mineral deposits and soap scum levels down.

• The usual buckets, mops, sponges, and so on. There’s no need to ditch what you already have if you like it and it works for you.

Recipes and Applications

Now that you have your arsenal put together, it’s time to put it to use. Let’s discuss what green cleaning can look like all around the house.

But first, a quick word about product use. Since you don’t have labels to guide you on what to use and where, you’ll have to make these decisions on your own. The following guidelines should help:

• Start with the simplest approach. Don’t pull out cleaning products when a wet rag or sponge and some effort will work.

• For cleaning soap scum and hard water deposits, vinegar and lemon—both acids—are the go-to products.

• For cleaning acidic, fatty, and oily dirt, use alkalis—baking soda, soda water, washing soda, borax. Start with the least caustic forms—club soda and baking soda—and work your way up from there.

• If you have small children around, you might want to think twice about using borax and/or washing soda, as they can present health problems if kids get into them. Club soda is the safest; baking soda can also be harmful if ingested in large amounts, but it is safer than the stronger alkalis.

• If you tend to clean on the fly—you basically whip out products and have at it—stick with baking soda and vinegar-based products. While you should always use gloves when cleaning, let’s face it, lots of people don’t. If you’re one of them, don’t use borax or washing soda, both of which can do nasty things to your skin.

• If you’re not good about rinsing surfaces after cleaning, again, stick to vinegar and baking soda, neither of which is particularly harmful if you don’t get it all off. Remember, though, even small amounts of vinegar can leave their mark on stone and grout over time. If you don’t wash baking soda away, you’ll be left with some grit and white residue, though neither is particularly harmful.

The following are some simple applications and recipes—nothing fancy, as there’s really no need for it. If you want to get fancier, you can. Do an Internet search for “natural cleaning recipes” or “green cleaning recipes” and you’ll turn up a ton of them. You’ll also find some resources for them in Appendix C.

Toxic

There’s no question cleaning products made with natural ingredients are effective, but remember that there are risks involved any time you start messing around with chemicals, even fairly benign ones. Until you’re more familiar with the substances that go into natural cleaning products, stick to the blends here and to recipes from trusted sources. And always store cleaning products—even natural ones—away from children and pets.

General Cleaning

These are mixtures and applications for general cleaning of hard and soft surfaces:

• For countertops, windows, mirrors, shower doors, etc., mix equal proportions of vinegar and warm water in a spray bottle and use as necessary. This is a good mixture to have on hand for general cleanup and will last indefinitely.

• For no-wax floors, add 1 cup vinegar for every gallon of water.

• For laminate wood floors, add ½ cup vinegar for every gallon of water. But be sure to check manufacturer’s guidelines first; some recommend against using vinegar.

• For glazed tile floors, substitute baking soda for vinegar, as vinegar can etch tile and grout—some experts say it should never be used on any stone surfaces (like marble and limestone) or grout, as it can react with the minerals in both. Mix ½ cup baking soda to 1 gallon water. Rinse thoroughly.

• For natural stone floors, mix a squirt or two of liquid soap with a gallon of warm water. Wash and rinse.

Deeper Cleaning—Surfaces and Appliances

Tougher cleaning jobs often need a little alchemy. The following recipes will help you knock the dirt and grime out of your life—naturally!

Baking Soda Blend

This cleaner can be used on just about any surface to wipe up spills and smudges and won’t leave a residue. If you use vinegar, it will keep indefinitely.

Yields 2 cups cleaner

Prep time: <5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: 1 bottle

1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. borax
2 tsp. vinegar or lemon juice

¼ tsp. liquid soap
2 cups hot water

Mix 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon borax, 2 teaspoons vinegar or lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon liquid soap, and 2 cups hot water. Place in spray or squirt bottle and shake to combine.

Baking Soda Paste

Simply mix up ½ cup baking soda with enough water to form a paste and apply where needed.

Cream Cleanser

For even tougher jobs, mix ½ cup baking soda with liquid soap, adding small amounts of the soap until you get a creamy paste. Apply and let sit for a few minutes (longer if you’re working on a really grimy area), then wipe off. Spray with vinegar and water combo to rinse.

Special Situations—Bathroom

All of the products and applications previously discussed will work in the bathroom, but bathrooms get a special call-out here as they present some issues that can go beyond the basic. Mildew can be a problem, as can soap scum and bacteria growth. Plus, we simply want them to look and smell as good as the rest of our house. The following will help you get there.

For general surface cleaning, use vinegar and water. Adding a few drops of tea tree oil or lavender to your mix will leave a pleasant aroma behind and help tackle bacteria at the same time. Remember, don’t use vinegar on marble or natural stone surfaces. If you do, be sure to rinse them thoroughly.

To clean and deodorize the toilet bowl, pour a couple of cups of undiluted white vinegar into the bowl. Allow to stand for several minutes, then scrub and flush.

To remove soap scum from shower walls and doors, spray with vinegar and, if necessary, scrub with a soft scrubbie. If this doesn’t do the trick, mix up a 50/50 solution of vinegar and baking soda (it will fizz), and wipe surfaces with it. Rinse well with clean water.

If film persists on surfaces, or if you’re working on a bathroom that hasn’t had a good cleaning in a while, use washing soda to take things up a notch—½ cup washing soda to 1 gallon warm water. Scrub areas thoroughly and rinse well.

Toxic

Don’t use washing soda on tubs, tiles, or sinks made of fiberglass because it can etch them.

Bathroom drains are often slow due to the buildup of soap scum, oils, and grease. To keep them flowing freely, do the following: pour in ½ cup baking soda, then add an equal amount of vinegar. You’ll see a lot of fizzing—this is caused by the release of carbon dioxide gas that happens when you mix the two ingredients together. When it stops, pour boiling water down the drain. Do this at least monthly to keep clogs from forming.

To tackle mildew, mix 2 cups water with ¼ teaspoon tea tree essential oil and ¼ teaspoon lavender essential oil (about 25 drops of each) in a spray bottle. Spray everywhere mildew is a concern and let dry. Don’t rinse; you want to leave the essential oils in place so they can do their job. You’ll have to shake this blend before use, as the oils will separate from the water.

Special Situations—Kitchen

Kitchens get a call-out similar to bathrooms as they, too, can present some cleaning challenges that go beyond the basic.

Washing soda is a great product for removing grease and caked-on gunk from range tops and broiler pans. Use ½ cup washing soda dissolved in 1 gallon warm water. For burners, remove and soak in the same solution for at least 30 minutes. Rinse well. For tougher grime, sprinkle the soda onto a damp sponge, scrub, and rinse.

For cleaning the inside of a microwave, fill a microwave-safe bowl with ½ cup vinegar and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil. This will remove any lingering odors and make any baked-on food in the microwave easier to remove.

For stinky kitchen sink drains, pour in a cup or more of vinegar. Let sit for at least an hour, and then run through with hot water. To clear a stinky garbage disposal, chop a lemon in half and run it through the disposal.

If your dishwasher is looking and smelling a little funky, put a dishwasher-safe cup filled with vinegar on the top rack. Run the dishwasher through a short cycle with the hottest water cycle possible. (Don’t wash the dishes while you do this.) You can also use vinegar instead of a rinse aid to reduce spotting.

Baking soda will also freshen things up in dishwashers—sprinkle about a cupful around the bottom of the washer and run through a short cycle with the hottest water.

The best way to keep ovens clean is to wipe up any spills when they happen. For cooked-on grime, however, the recipe for baking soda paste works well. Mix it up and spread around. Let sit overnight. Scoop it out the next day. Most of the cooked-on gunk should come with it; if not, try a soft scrubbie or some fine steel wool.

If you want to keep your oven racks shiny, you won’t want to run them through any self-clean cycles—doing so will discolor and warp them. To remove baked-on food, fill a tub (a bathtub will work) with hot water, enough to cover the racks. Add liquid soap, enough to make the water really sudsy, and let soak overnight. Put rubber mats or old towels in the tub (if using a bathtub) to avoid scratching.

In the Laundry Room

You really don’t need much to keep clothing looking its best—just a good soap or detergent will do the job in most situations. Check Chapter 18 for suggestions for commercial products to look for.

As previously noted, adding baking soda to your wash water will help balance pH and boost your detergent’s cleaning power. Borax also works for this.

If you need to attack heavily soiled clothing, add ½ cup washing soda to your wash water. Wash as usual. For large loads or heavily soiled loads, boost the ½ cup to 1 cup.

Washing soda can also work well for pre-treating stains. Mix 4 tablespoons washing soda with ½ cup water. Dampen the stain and gently rub the paste into it. Wash as usual. Or pre-soak clothing—if doing so in a tub, use 2 tablespoons washing soda per gallon of water. If using a washing machine, fill the washer and add ½ cup washing soda. Pre-soak for at least 30 minutes. To further boost cleaning, add ½ cup of washing soda to the wash cycle with your usual detergent.

Alternatives to Dry Cleaning

Perchloroethylene, a.k.a. PCE or perc, the solvent most dry cleaners use to get clothes clean, is toxic and something to avoid as much as possible. Before you go through your closet in search of everything labeled “dry clean only” and doom it to extinction, know that living organically doesn’t mean having to eschew dry cleaning. But it does call for a more mindful approach to it.

If you have to have items dry cleaned, try to find a cleaner who uses less-toxic processes, such as CO2 systems or wet-cleaning. If you can’t, ask your cleaner to leave the bags off your clothing so the fumes can dissipate before you bring the items into your home.

The Dirt

Laboratory studies show that perc causes kidney and liver damage and cancer in animals exposed repeatedly by inhalation and by mouth. Repeat exposure to large amounts of perc in the air may likewise cause cancer in humans.

Many dry clean only items can be washed if you’re careful about it, either by hand or on the handwash cycle if your washer has this setting. Use a mild cleanser, avoid twisting or wringing, and dry flat for best results.

Many dry clean only items can be freshened up in a dryer on the low heat setting. Place a towel dampened with water and a few drops of your favorite essential oil in the dryer with the clothes; the heat will make the damp towel steam your clothes and the essential oil will help freshen their scent.

DIY Laundry Soap

To be honest, there are so many good natural products on the market to choose from that making your own laundry soap seems somewhat unnecessary. But if you really want to have the cleanest, most natural soap in your wash, try this recipe.

The basic recipe is simplicity itself—all it calls for is soap, washing soda, and borax. Try this one first and see how well it works for you; you might have to experiment with various recipes to find the one that works best with what’s in your water. (A good online source for some recipes is www.tipnut.com/10-homemade-laundry-soap-detergent-recipes)

Basic Laundry Soap

Yields 2 cups cleaner

Prep time: <5 minutes Cook time: none Serving size: 1-2 TB. per load

1 cup castile soap flakes
½ cup washing soda

½ cup borax

Just mix these ingredients together and store in a glass container—use 1 to 2 tablespoons per load.

Variation: To make a liquid soap, mix soap flakes in a pan with 6 cups water over medium heat until dissolved—this will take about 3-5 minutes. Stir in washing soda and borax and keep stirring until the mixture thickens up, about another 3 minutes or so. Remove from heat. Put 1 quart hot water in a 2-gallon bucket, add soap mixture, mix well. Add more water to fill the bucket—it can be any temperature, but things will blend better if it’s at least room temperature. Stir until well blended.

The soap will thicken and separate as it cools, so you’ll need to stir or shake well before using. Use ½ cup per load and up to 1 cup for very dirty items.

If your water is soft, you might want to adjust the ratios in this recipe by reducing the washing soda to ¼ cup. If your water is hard, mix equal amounts of all three ingredients—the additional washing soda and borax will boost the cleaning power of the soap.

Freshening the Air

Commercial air fresheners can contain a toxic brew of chemicals, including formaldehyde, naphthalene, xylene, phenol, phthalates … the list goes on. Even fresheners labeled “all natural” or “unscented” typically contain phthalates. None of them have a place in an organically oriented home.

You might find your home smells fresh and clean on its own after you’ve been using natural cleaning products for a while. For the times when it doesn’t, any of the following approaches will help clear the air.

The Dirt

According to a British study published in New Scientist in 1999, mothers and children both suffer from frequent air freshener use. Moms experienced 25 percent more headaches and were 19 percent more likely to suffer from depression. Ear infections and diarrhea were more prevalent in infants in these homes, with babies having 30 percent more ear infections and a 22 percent higher incidence of diarrhea.

• Put bowls of baking soda or vinegar around.

• Simmer your own air freshener on the stove. Just about anything aromatic works here—try lemons, mint, cloves, or cinnamon sticks. Place in a small pan and cover with water; turn heat on low. Check the pan often so it doesn’t boil dry.

• Make a natural air freshener spray. Simply combine about a half cup of water with 30 to 40 drops of your favorite essential oils. Place in a spray bottle and use as desired. Be sure to shake well before using.

• Add some greenery. Plants are a great way to freshen the air—their leaves, roots, and even the microbes in the soil help purify the air as they take in carbon dioxide and breathe out oxygen. Plants to try include several palms—like areca, lady, dwarf date, and damboo—as well as rubber plant, dracaena, English ivy, ficus, Boston fern, and spider plant.

It seems somewhat fitting to end this book by talking about plants in your home, as it takes us back to the beginning—to the earth and what grows in it. After all, true organic living is about more than just how you shop, eat, drink, dress, or take care of your home—it’s about how you see the world and yourself within it. Once you begin employing techniques you’ve learned in this book, you may find yourself developing a deeper respect for the natural world around you. You may find yourself marveling at the interconnectedness of all living things.

Or maybe you’ll just find yourself with that extra spring in your step, the energy that comes from a cleaner, greener way of living. Enjoy it. It’s the benefit of an organic life—the life we were all born to live.

The Least You Need to Know

• You can clean your entire home using cheap (really cheap!), effective, natural products.

• Vinegar is a superpower in the world of natural cleaners, as it can be used for so many things. No matter where you shop, you should be able to find a big bottle of it for pennies.

• Start with the simplest approach. Don’t pull out cleaning products when a wet rag or sponge and some effort will work.

Appendix A

Glossary

acetic acid Also known as ethanoic acid, acetic acid is the organic chemical compound that gives vinegar its distinctive smell and taste.

base In chemistry, a base is a substance that can accept protons. Bases are the chemical opposite of acids.

bast fibers Fibers obtained from the inner bark (a.k.a. bast or phloem) of certain plants.

biodynamics Focuses on the relationships between living things and the forces around them. It emphasizes farms as self-contained and self-sufficient ecosystems, sustained without outside assistance as much as possible.

biomonitoring A scientific method for sampling body fluids and tissues to determine exposure to natural and synthetic chemicals.

body burden The total amount of harmful substances present in one’s body at a specific point in time.

clay dyes Dyes made from minerals.

companion planting Companion planting takes advantage of various plant attributes, known and unknown, to enhance quality and yield.

contaminant A contaminant is a byproduct of a manufacturing process.

cool-season grasses Grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and perennial fescues that are typically grown in cooler climates.

crop rotation The practice of growing different crops in the same space in succession to balance and rejuvenate the soil’s fertility and nutrition levels and to offset the buildup of pests and diseases that can occur when the same crop is repeatedly grown.

dead zones Low-oxygen areas in the world’s oceans and other large bodies of water.

denaturants Substances that make products bitter to the taste.

evapotranspiration The process by which plant and soil surfaces release water into the atmosphere.

fiber-reactive dyes Dyes that bond directly with the molecules in fibers, which makes them extremely colorfast and reduces the amount of dye that runs off during the dyeing process.

genetically modified organisms (GMOs) Organisms created by combining the genes from one species with the genes from another.

greenwashing Claims, either unsubstantiated or misleading, about the environmental benefits of a product, technology, service, or practice.

hormone disruptors Synthetic chemicals that can mimic, interfere with, and block normal hormone activity in the body.

Integrated Pest Management A pest management approach that emphasizes ecologically friendly strategies over chemical use.

nanoparticles Tiny particles of substances that are measured in nanometers, or one-billionths of a meter.

offgassing The technical definition for offgassing is “the evaporation of volatile chemicals in non-metallic materials at normal atmospheric pressure.” In laymen’s terms, this means that hazardous organic compounds are released into the air when at room temperature.

petrochemicals Chemical compounds made from petroleum or other carbon-based materials.

pH A measure of the acidity or alkalinity in a substance. Water has a pH of 7; numbers lower than this are acids and higher than this are alkalines.

phosphates Substances often used to boost the cleaning power in detergents. In large amounts they can destroy the health of lakes, streams, and other bodies of water as they can make algae grow faster than it normally would.

plasticizers Substances that make rubber, plastic, or resin flexible.

raised beds Gardening areas higher than ground level.

recombinant bovine growth hormone (rBGH) A genetically engineered variant of the natural growth hormone produced by cows, a hormone given to dairy cattle to increase milk production by about 10 percent.

semivolatile organic compounds (SVOCs) Different from VOCs in that they release as a gas much more slowly and over a longer period of time.

solubilizers Substances used to dissolve other substances in.

surfactants Also referred to as surface acting agents, surfactants are chemicals that, when dissolved in water, enable products to remove dirt from surfaces.

sustainability The philosophy of sustainability, or sustainable agriculture, which incorporates three main goals: stewardship of the land, profitability of the farm, and prosperity of farming communities.

thatch The organic matter that accumulates on top of the soil.

third-party certification A certification of a product awarded by a third party after an evaluation to determine if standards are met.

topdressing Applying a thin layer of soil or compost to lawns or garden beds.

toxic air pollutants Also known as hazardous air pollutants, these pollutants are either known or suspected to cause cancer or other serious health effects.

trace elements Minerals that all living things—plants and humans—need minute amounts of for optimum health.

volatile organic compounds (VOCs) Organic chemical compounds in gas form that products emit into the air.

warm-season grasses Grasses like Bermuda grass, St. Augustine grass, and Bahia grass that grow in warmer climates.

Appendix B

Resources for Living Organically

References to websites and organizations mentioned throughout this book.

American Community Gardening Association—www. communitygarden.org Searchable database for community gardens.

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics—www.safecosmetics.org Home base for everything you want (or don’t want) to know about what goes into the stuff you put on your body. A list of lipsticks tested and lead levels they contained can be found in the organization’s report, “A Poison Kiss,” available for download.

Compost Guide—www.compostguide.com A good, comprehensive site for learning more about composting.

Eat Well Guide—www.eatwellguide.org One online resource for finding local sources of sustainable and organic food.

Environmental Working Group (EWG)—www.ewg.org EWG is all about using “the power of public information to protect public health and the environment.”

EPA—www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/insidest.html For the complete rundown on indoor air quality from the federal government’s point of view, take a look at “The Inside Story: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality,” available for viewing and download.

Etsy—www.etsy.com Esty can be a great place to source natural products from small producers.

ExoTextileNews—www.ecotextile.com News and information on sustainable textiles and clothing, mostly from and for the textiles industry.

Fresh Baby—www.freshbaby.com This site offers a baby food kit—including a cookbook, how-to DVD, freezer trays, and nutrition tips card—if you need some help getting started making your own organic baby food.

Green Exhibits—www.greenexhibits.org Another good source for information on choosing healthy building materials, although developed more for commercial purposes—specifically, for building eco-friendly museum exhibits.

Green Guide—www.greenguide.com Not just organics but good coverage of organic issues as well as lots of good shopping guides in areas ranging from blankets and sheets to meat and tea.

Green Home Guide—www.greenhomeguide.com This resource site contains some lists and reviews of eco-friendly building materials.

Green Seal—www.greenseal.org For a complete list of Green Seal certified paints, go to this site and click on “Find a Certified Product/Service.”

Greener Choices—www.greenerchoices.org Want to know exactly what the label on a food product means? Go to this site and click on the link to the eco-labels center.

Grist—www.grist.org You’ll find environmental news, commentary, and some humor at this lively site.

Lime—www.lime.com Billed as “a place where you can find all the ideas, information and resources to inspire you to live healthier and help make our planet greener—and have some fun doing it.”

Local Harvest—www.localharvest.org Searchable database for local organic sources, including farmers’ markets, restaurants, co-ops, community-supported agriculture, and online stores.

Makeup Alley—www.makeupalley.com For product reviews from the front line—the people who use them.

Natural Home Magazine—www.naturalhomemagazine.com The online version of Natural Home Magazine offers articles on green building and living wisely and well.

Organic Consumers Association (OCA)—www.organicconsumers.org Home base for the organic community, representing the views and interests of its more than 850,000 members, subscribers, and volunteers as well as “the nation’s estimated 50 million organic and socially responsible consumers.”

The Organic Exchange—www.organicexchange.org A nonprofit organization dedicated to expanding organic agriculture with a specific emphasis on organically grown fibers, including cotton.

Organic Gardening—www.organicgardening.com News, views, and plenty of tips on organic gardening.

Organic Spa Magazine—www.organicspamagazine.com Four departments—At Home, At Work, At Play, At Rest—offer suggestions for living the organic spa lifestyle.

The Organic Trade Association’s Organic Pages Online—www.theorganicpages.com
This site has lists of importers, manufacturers, and retailers, with lots of clickable links to search through as well.

SafeLawns.org—www.SafeLawns.org Show your commitment to going chemical-free on your lawn by signing the SafeLawns Million Acre Challenge at this site.

Saffron Rouge—www.saffronrouge.com Too busy to vet cosmetics and personal care products yourself? Go to this site and the work’s been done for you.

Scorecard—www.scorecard.org An excellent site for learning more about pollution issues.

Skin Deep—www.cosmeticdatabase.com An excellent resource for learning about the ingredients in your products and in products you’re considering buying.

Think Before You Pink—www.thinkbeforeyoupink.org A project of Breast Cancer Action, this site has a list of companies that don’t use either paraben or phthalate. Downloadable lists are available.

Treehugger—www.treehugger.com Part blogs, part articles, part buying guides, all sustainable. The focus is more about going green and eco-friendliness than organic, but organics obviously play a role, too.

Spa Index—www.spaindex.com A good site for accessing natural beauty and personal care recipes.

Women’s Voices for the Earth—www.womenandenvironment.org Good information on green cleaning and why you should do it, including resources for holding a green cleaning party.

Appendix C

Further Reading

Books and Magazines

Albright, Barbara. The Natural Knitter: How to Choose, Use, and Knit Natural Fibers from Alpaca to Yak. New York: Potter Craft, 2007.

A comprehensive look at all-natural fibers and some great projects to try, including dyeing your own yarn naturally at home.

Berthold-Bond, Annie. Better Basics for the Home: Simple Solutions for Less Toxic Living. New York: Three Rivers Press, 1999.

This book contains lots of good advice on and recipes for making your home and your life less toxic.

Burke, Cindy. To Buy or Not to Buy Organic: What You Need to Know to Choose the Healthiest, Safest, Most Earth-Friendly Food. New York: Marlowe & Company, 2007.

This is a comprehensive and in-depth look at the organic food marketplace, along with a buying guide and suggestions for when to choose organic and when not to.

Cox, Janice. Natural Beauty at Home, Revised Edition. New York: Holt Paperbacks, 2002.

This book contains tons of recipes for making your own beauty products.

Cox, Jeff. The Organic Cook’s Bible. New York: Wiley, 2006.

This is an encyclopedic organic recipe resource.

Dorit. Celebrating Our Raw Nature: Plant-Based Living Cuisine. Summertown, Tennessee: Book Publishing Company, 2007.

A good introduction to raw foods with recipes for cooks of all skill levels.

Flores, Heather Colburn. Food Not Lawns: How to Turn Your Lawn into a Garden and Your Neighborhood into a Community. White River Junction, Vermont: Chelsea Green, 2006.

This book has a bit of an activist edge, but it’s a fun introduction to “guerilla gardening” and the promises of achieving “food independence” as a key to community-building.

Fromartz, Samuel. Organic, Inc.: Natural Foods and How They Grew. Orlando, Florida: Harcourt, 2006.

If you want to read about the genesis and history of organic food and the organic movement, there’s no better source than this book.

Green, Mindy. Natural Perfumes: Simple Aromatherapy Recipes. Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press, 1999.

Extensive notes on blending carrier oils and essential oils to create unique fragrances, plus a good list of tried-and-true blends.

Malkan, Stacy. Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry. Gabriola Island, British Columbia, Canada: New Society Publishers, 2007.

Malkan’s book is a true insider’s view of what’s wrong with the beauty products industry and the people who are working to change it.

Schoff, Jill Potvin. Green Up Your Cleanup. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey: Creative Homeowner, 2008.

A detailed guide on making every part of the home—inside and out—healthy and clean.

Schapiro, Mark. Exposed: The Toxic Chemistry of Everyday Products and What’s at Stake for American Power. White River Junction, Vermont: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2007.

A behind-the-scenes look at how the discrepancy in health standards between America and the rest of the world is shifting global economic power and forcing industry to create two product lines: hazard-free items for the European Union and toxin-filled versions of the same products for the United States and developing countries.

Tourles, Stephanie. Organic Body Care Recipes: 175 Homemade Herbal Formulas for Glowing Skin & a Vibrant Self. North Adams, Massachusetts: Storey Publishing, 2007.

This is another good resource for do-it-yourself body and personal care products.

Tukey, Paul. The Organic Lawn Care Manual. North Adams, Massachusetts: Storey Publishing, 2007.

This is an excellent, comprehensive, and easy-to-understand guide to organic lawn care. If you need a book to guide you through the process, this is the one to own.

Winter, Ruth. A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals, Sixth Edition. New York: Three Rivers Press, 2005.

Here is a solid resource for researching ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products.

Wittenberg, Margaret M. New Good Food: Shopper’s Pocket Guide to Organic, Sustainable, and Seasonal Whole Foods. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press, 2008.

This handy guide covers the food-shopping, storing, and preparing process from soup to nuts—pun intended. Lots of handy charts and tables and ingredient-specific guides—if you’re wondering about things like the difference between brown rice flour and sweet rice flour or you need to know how long the big bag of flax seeds you just bought will keep in the freezer, this is the book to have.

Index

Symbols

#2, HDPE plastics

#3 plastics

#4, LDPE plastics

#5, PP plastics

#6 plastics

#7 plastics

1-dioxane

A

acetic acid

AFM SafeChoice Super Clean

Agricultural Testament, An

agriculture

biodynamics

crop rotation

fallow fields

Haber-Bosch process

mono-cropping

organic agriculture

synthetic agriculture

air fresheners (organic), creating

air pollutants

alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEs)

almond oil

aloe vera gel

Aloe Vera Toner

American Apparel

American Community Gardening Association

American Humane Approved labels

ammonia

Angel Baby

animal care products, organic animal care products

Animal Welfare Approved labels

Anise Nail Care

Anna Sova

APEs (alkylphenol ethoxylates)

appetizers

Crispy Date Roll-Ups

Salsa Olé!

Zucchini Hummus

apples

Family Apple Delight

purchasing

Apple Skin Toner

apricot kernel oil

arsenic

Artisanal Cheese

asparagus

Asparagus with Citrus/Ginger Sauce

purchasing

Asparagus with Citrus/Ginger Sauce

aspirin

asthma, increases

astringents, Zingy Lemon Astringent

Aubrey Organics

Avalon Natural Products

avocado oil

avocados, purchasing

B

Baa Baa Zuzu

Badger

baking soda

household cleaners

Baking Soda Blend

Baking Soda Paste

Balfour, Evelyn

Balm

bamboo fibers

bamboo flooring

Banana Republic

bananas, purchasing

barium compounds

bases, chemicals

Basic Laundry Soap

Basic Liquid Shampoo

Basic Liquid Shampoo

Basic Vinaigrette

bast fibers

bathroom cleaners (organic)

creating

BDIH certification

beauty products

chemicals

health considerations

organic beauty products

creating

labels

sourcing

transitioning

regulations

bedding (organic)

creating

sourcing

beds, organic gardens, maintaining

beef

Braised Short Ribs of Beef with Turnips

purchasing

beer, purchasing

beeswax

bell peppers, purchasing

benzene

Better Butter

beverages

beer

coffee

tea

wine

BFA (Biological Farmers of Australia) certification

Biggs, Shannon

Binder, Kirstin

Bio Pac Super Citrus Cleaner

Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association

biodynamics

BioKleen’s Super Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner & Degreaser

biomonitoring

BioShield Vinegar Cleaner

Bisphenol A (BPA) plastics

Black Chocolate Cake

bleach

organic bleaches

blenders

blood toxicity

Blue Canoe

Blue Sky Alpacas

blueberries, Dawn’s Peach-Blueberry Pie

bluesign certification

body burden

body care products

Aloe Vera Toner

Apple Skin Toner

Balm

Brown Sugar Body Scrub

Coffee Body Scrub

Cold Cream

Flake-Chaser Oil

Lube Ya

organic body care products

creating

labels

sourcing

transitioning

Salty Scrub

Sugar, Sugar Baby

Watermelon Toner

Zingy Lemon Astringent

Bono

Borax

Bosch, Carl

Botanical Dog

Bowen, Summer

BPA (Bisphenol A) plastics

Braised Short Ribs of Beef with Turnips

breads, purchasing

breathing chemicals

Brighid, Dawn

broccoli, purchasing

broth, Chicken Lickin’ Good Stock

brown materials, compost heaps

Brown Sugar Body Scrub

BTC Elements

Building for Health

building materials (organic), sourcing

Building the Green Economy: Success Stories from the Grass Roots

bulk groceries, purchasing

bulk petrochemicals

Burt’s Bees

butyl glycol or ethylene glycol monobutyl ether (EGBE)

C

cabbage

Cole Slaw

purchasing

cabinets (organic), sourcing

cage-free claims (labels)

California Baby

California Certified Organic Farmers

California Safe Cosmetics Act

Campaign for Safe Cosmetics

Canary Cosmetics

cancer, increases

cardiovascular exercise. See aerobic exercise

cardiovascular toxicity

Carey, Jayni

carpets, offgassing

carrier oils

Carson, Rachel

castile soap

celery, purchasing

certifications

American Humane Approved

Animal Welfare Approved

BDIH certification

BFA (Biological Farmers of Australia) certification

bluesign

Certified Humane Grown and Handled

Certified Naturally Grown

Demeter certification

Ecocert certifications

Ecolabel

Fairtrade Certification

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards)

International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology

IVN

JOCA (Japan Organic Cotton Association)

KRAV

Leaping Bunny certification

Marine Stewardship Council

Natural Products Association certification

organic furniture

OTA (Organic Trade Association)

Rainforest Alliance Certified

Salmon-Safe certification

SKAL

Soil Association

third-party certifications

USDA certifications

USDA Organic certification

Certified Humane Grown and Handled

Certified Naturally Grown labels

cheese

Creamy White Cheese

Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries, and Toasted Walnuts

Whole Wheat Pasta with Tomatoes, Garlic, and Asiago Cheese

cheesecloth

chemicals

1-dioxane

ammonia

annual worldwide production

arsenic

barium compounds

bases

benzene

body burden

BPA (Bisphenol A)

breathing

bulk petrochemicals

children, chemical exposure

coal tar

copper compounds

cosmetics

DEA (diethanolamine)

dioxane

Earth’s toxic load, reducing

formaldehyde

groundwater pollutants

health detriments

hormone disruptors

hydrochloric acid

hydroquinone

inorganic chemicals

lawn care

lead

lead compounds

man-made fibers

manganese compounds

mercury

methanol

methylene chloride

nanoparticles

nitrate compounds

oxybenzone

parabens

perchlorethylene

petrochemicals

PFCs (perfluorinated chemicals)

phthalates

plastic resins

PPD (p-phenylenediamine)

safety issues

skin absorption

SLES (sodium laureth sulfate)

SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate)

soil pollutants

toxic air pollutants

toxic releases

use in United States

VOCs (volatile organic compounds)

zinc compounds

cherries

Holiday Harvest Salad

purchasing

chicken

Chicken Lickin’ Good Stock

Curried Chicken Kabobs

purchasing

Chicken Lickin’ Good Stock

children

chemical exposure

organic furniture

organic living, involving

Chipko movement

chlorine bleach

chocolate

Black Chocolate Cake

purchasing

Clabrough, Chantal

clay dyes

cleaning products

creating

harmful chemicals

organic cleaning products

Baking Soda Blend

Baking Soda Paste

Cream Cleanser

creating

clothing

organic clothing

bamboo

bast fibers

certifications

cotton

creating

silk

sourcing

wool

vintage clothing, purchasing

clover

club soda, household cleaners

co-ops

organic food, purchasing

starting

coal tar

cocoa butter

coconut oil

coffee, purchasing

Coffee Body Scrub

coffee filters

coffee grinders

Cold Cream

Cole Slaw

colognes, Eau de Cologne

community gardening

Community Supported Agriculture (CSA)

patronizing

compaction (soil)

companion planting, organic gardens

Company Store

The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Green Cleaning

compost, soil, topdressing

composting (organic gardens)

benefits

building heaps

containing

locations

maintaining heaps

spreading

tools

trace elements

concrete flooring

conditioners

organic conditioners

containers

compost

organic food

organic gardening

contains organic ingredients labels

contaminants, cosmetics

convenience foods, purchasing

cool-season grasses

cooperative agencies

copper compounds

Coral Rose

cork flooring

corn

Corn and Pepper Frittata with Salsa Verde

purchasing

Corn and Pepper Frittata with Salsa Verde

cornstarch

cosmetic clay

cosmetics

chemicals

health considerations

organic cosmetics

creating

labels

sourcing

transitioning

regulations

cost considerations

organic food

organic living

Costco, organic food

cotton (organic)

countertops (organic), sourcing

coupons, using

cows, rBGH (recombinant bovine growth hormone)

cranberries, Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries and Toasted Walnuts

Cream Cleanser

Creamy White Cheese

Crispy Date Roll-Ups

crop rotation

CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) patronizing

cucumbers, Heirloom Tomato Salad

Curried Chicken Kabobs

D

dairy

Better Butter

Creamy White Cheese

purchasing

Whole Wheat Pasta with Tomatoes, Garlic, and Asiago Cheese

Danaher, Kevin

dates, Crispy Date Roll-Ups

Dawn’s Peach-Blueberry Pie

DDT (dichloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane)

DEA (diethanolamine)

dead zones, oceans

Deer Scram

Del Cerro Hand Woven Textiles

Delano Collection

Demeter certification

denaturants

deodorant

deodorant (organic)

Design for the Environment

desserts

Black Chocolate Cake

Dawn’s Peach-Blueberry Pie

Family Apple Delight

Macerated Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar and Mint

detergents

harmful chemicals

organic detergents

developmental toxicity

Diamond Organics

diethanolamine (DEA)

dioxane

diseases, increases

dish soap (organic)

dishwasher soap (organic)

Dorit

Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Soap

drain cleaners, harmful chemicals

dressings

Basic Vinaigrette

Fresh Pesto, by Chantal Clabrough for SustainableTable.org

Druide

dry cleaning, alternatives

dry materials, compost heaps

dyes

clay dyes

fiber-reactive dyes

natural dyes

E

Earth Friendly Goods

Earth Friendly Products Ecos Parsley All-Purpose Cleaner

Eat Well Guide

Eau de Cologne

Ecco Bella

Ecocert certifications

ecohaus

Ecolabel certification

EcoLogo

economic diversity

Ecover All-Purpose Cleaner

Edun

EGBE (butyl glycol or ethylene glycol monobutyl ether)

eggplant, purchasing

Eileen Fischer

Ekologic

endocrine toxicity

engineered wood products, offgassing

entrées

Braised Short Ribs of Beef with Turnips

Corn and Pepper Frittata with Salsa Verde

Curried Chicken Kabobs

Whole Wheat Pasta with Tomatoes, Garlic, and Asiago Cheese

environmental concerns, global warming

Environmental Working Group (EWG)

epsom salt

essential oils

Estée Lauder

ethanoic acid

Etsy

Etsy.com

evapotranspiration

EWG (Environmental Working Group)

EWG’s Skin Deep

extension agencies

exterior grade plywood

eyedroppers

F

fabrics

organic fabrics

bamboo

bast fibers

certifications

choosing

cotton

silk

sourcing

wool

processes

fabric softeners

harmful chemicals

organic fabric softeners

Fairtrade Certification labels

fallow fields

families, organic living, involving

Family Apple Delight

farmers’ markets

organic food, purchasing

farming

biodynamics

crop rotation

fallow fields

Haber-Bosch process

mono-cropping

organic

synthetic

feeding lawns

fertilizers, organic

fiber-reactive dyes

fibers

growth

organic fibers

bamboo

bast

certifications

choosing

cotton

silk

sourcing

wool

processes

fish, purchasing

Flake-Chaser Oil

flax fibers

flexibility, importance

flooring

offgassing

organic flooring, sourcing

flowers (organic), purchasing

food, genetically modified food

food (organic)

beer

chocolate

coffee

dairy products

grains

labels

American Humane Approved

Animal Welfare Approved

Certified Humane Grown and Handled

Certified Naturally Grown

Demeter certification

Fairtrade Certification

general claims labels

Marine Stewardship Council

Rainforest Alliance Certified

reading

Salmon-Safe certification

third-party certifications

USDA certifications

meats

beef

chicken

fish

pork

nuts

produce

purchasing

cost considerations

sourcing

seeds

storing

tea

vegetable oils

wine

food processors

Forest Certification Resource Center

Forest Stewardship Council

formaldehyde

Fox River

fragrances

cleaning products

Eau de Cologne

free-range claims (labels)

Fresh Pesto, by Chantal Clabrough for SustainableTable.org

Friese, Michael

fruits, purchasing

apples

avocados

bananas

cherries

grapes

kiwi fruit

mangoes

nectarines

papayas

peaches

pears

pineapples

strawberries

FSC-certified plywood

funnels

furniture

organic furniture

benefits

children’s furniture

creating

sourcing

transitioning

vintage furniture, purchasing

futons (organic)

G

Gaiam

Galen

Gap

gardening (organic)

benefits

community gardening

companion planting

composting

benefits

building heaps

containing

locations

maintaining heaps

spreading

tools

trace elements

containers

detriments

mulching

pest control

planning

seeding

soil

soil maintenance

gastrointestinal toxicity

general claims labels

genetically modified food

genetically modified organisms (GMOs)

Giannatempo, Laura

Giovanni

glass cleaners (organic)

Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS)

global warming

GMOs (genetically modified organisms)

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards)

grains, purchasing

grapes

Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries, and Toasted Walnuts

purchasing

grapeseed oil

grass-fed claims (labels)

grasses

graters

Green Building Resource Guide

Green Guide

Green Home Guide

Green Light’s Organic Lawn and Garden Spray

Green Loop

green materials, compost heaps

Green Mountain Spinnery

greens, Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries, and Toasted Walnuts

Green Seal

greenwashing

GreenWorks Natural All-Purpose Cleaner and Natural Dilutable Cleaner

Gregory, Rogan

Grilled Summer Vegetables Mediterranean Style

Grist.com

Grocery Coupon Guide

grocery stores

co-ops

farmers’ markets

natural food stores

online stores

specialty markets

supermarkets

groundwater pollutants

Growing Solutions Incorporated

H

H&M

Haber, Fritz

Haber-Bosch process

hair care products

Basic Liquid Shampoo

Basic Liquid Shampoo

conditioners

organic hair products

Rinse Away

hand mixers

hardwood floors

Hatz, Walter

hazardous air pollutants

hazardous groundwater pollutants

hazardous soil pollutants

health detriments, pollutants

Heart of Vermont

Heckman, Joseph

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Market Basil, Cucumber, and Grilled Sourdough

hemp fibers

Herban Cowboy

Hewson, Ali

Holiday Harvest Salad

homes

cleaning products

harmful chemicals

organic cleaning products

indoor air quality

organic furniture

benefits

children’s furniture

creating

sourcing

transitioning

organic materials, sourcing

Honeybee Gardens

hormone disruptors

hormone-free claims (labels)

hot pepper wax

Howard, Albert

Hudson, Karen

hydrochloric acid

hydroquinone

I

IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements)

immersible blenders

immunotoxicity

Indigenous Designs

indoor air quality

ingredients

organic beauty products

organic body care products

inorganic chemicals

Intelligent Nutrients

International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology

International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM)

IPM (integrated pest management)

IVN certification

J-K

Jason Natural Products

JOCA (Japan Organic Cotton Association)

John Masters Organics

jojoba oil

Keep It Simple, Inc.

Keys Soap

kidney toxicity

Kimbrell, Andrew

Kiss My Face

kitchen cleaners (organic), creating

kitchen waste, storing

kiwi fruit, purchasing

KRAV certification

L

La Cense

labels

American Humane Approved

Animal Welfare Approved

Certified Humane Grown and Handled

Certified Naturally Grown

Demeter certification

Fairtrade Certification

general claims labels

Marine Stewardship Council

organic beauty products

organic body care products

organic clothing and fabrics

organic cosmetics

organic furniture

Rainforest Alliance Certified

reading

Salmon-Safe certification

third-party certifications

USDA certifications

Lackman, Michael

Lackman, Shellie

Larenim

laundry detergent (organic)

creating

lavendar essential oil, household cleaners

Lavera

lawn maintenance

IPM (integrated pest management)

organic lawn maintenance

lawn maintenance (organic)

feeding

mowing

overseeding

soil

soil compaction

thatch

topdressing

watering

weeding

lawn-care chemicals

lead

compounds

paint

Leaping Bunny certification

lemon juice, household cleaners

lettuce, purchasing

Levi’s

Lime.com

linens (organic)

creating

sourcing

linoleum flooring

liquid soaps

liver toxicity

The Living Soil and the Haughley Experiment

Local Harvest

locally grown produce, purchasing

Look to the Land

lotions, Lube Ya

Lotus Organics

low-VOC paint

Lube Ya

M

macadamia nut oil

Macerated Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar and Mint

made with organic ingredients labels

Maggie’s Functional Organics

makeup (organic)

Makeup Alley

Malkin, Stacy

Mama Rose’s

man-made fibers

manganese compounds

mangoes, purchasing

Marine Stewardship Council labels

Mark, Jason

Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries, and Toasted Walnuts

mattresses (organic)

mercury

methanol

methylene chloride

microfiber cloths

Miessence

milky spore powder

mint, Macerated Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar and Mint

Minty Toothpaste

mixers

Mod to Modern

mono-cropping

mortars and pestles

Motherlove

mouthwash (organic)

mowing lawns

Mrs. Meyer’s All-Purpose Cleaner

mulching organic gardens

musculoskeletal toxicity

N

nail care products (organic)

NAIL-AID Treatments

nanoparticles

nanotechnology

National Organic Program

natural claims (labels)

natural dyes

natural fiber carpet

natural fiber wall coverings

natural food stores, purchasing organic food

natural paint

Natural Products Association certification

Naturally Yours All-Purpose Cleaner

Nature’s Gate

NatureWear Organics

Near Sea Naturals

nectarines, purchasing

neurotoxicity

Nichepork.org

Nike

Niman Ranch

nitrate compounds

no antibiotics administered claims (labels)

no-VOC paint

non-toxic paint

non-vinyl wallpaper

nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs)

Northbourne, Walter

Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry

NPEs (nonylphenol ethoxylates)

Nui Organics

nuts, purchasing

NVEY Eco

O

OCA (Organic Consumers Association)

oceans, dead zones

Oeko-Tex Standard

offgassing

furniture

OFPA (Organic Foods Protection Act)

oils

carrier oils

essential oils

Flake-Chaser Oil

vegetable oils

Old Navy

olive oil

one-hundred percent organic labels

onions, purchasing

online stores, organic food, purchasing

Orange Guard pest control

oranges, Holiday Harvest Salad

Organic Babies

organic beauty products

creating

ingredients

tools

labels

sourcing

transitioning

organic body care products

creating

ingredients

tools

labels

sourcing

transitioning

organic building materials, sourcing

organic cleaning products

creating

organic clothing, sourcing

Organic Consumers Association (OCA)

organic cosmetics, labels

Organic Cotton Plus

Organic Exchange

organic fabrics

certifications

choosing

cotton

silk

sourcing

wool

organic farming

Organic Farming and Gardening magazine

organic fertilizers

organic fibers

bamboo

bast fibers

sourcing

organic flowers, purchasing

organic food

beer

chocolate

coffee

dairy products

grains

labels

American Humane Approved

Animal Welfare Approved

Certified Humane Grown and Handled

Certified Naturally Grown

Demeter certification

Fairtrade Certification

general claims labels

Marine Stewardship Council

Rainforest Alliance Certified

reading

Salmon-Safe certification

third-party certifications

USDA certifications

meats

beef

chicken

fish

pork

nuts

produce, purchasing

purchasing

cost considerations

sourcing

seeds

store brands

storing

tea

vegetable oils

wine

Organic Foods Protection Act (OFPA)

organic furniture

benefits

children’s furniture

creating

sourcing

transitioning

organic gardening

benefits

community gardening

companion planting

composting

benefits

building heaps

containing

locations

maintaining heaps

spreading

tools

trace elements

containers

detriments

mulching

pest control

planning

seeding

soil

maintenance

organic intermediates

organic labels

organic lawn maintenance

feeding

mowing

overseeding

soil

soil compaction

thatch

topdressing

watering

weeding

organic living

benefits

cost considerations

entry points

family, involving

resources

organic pet care products

organic salons

Organic Spa Magazine

organic spas

Organic Trade Association’s Organic Pages Online

Organic Trade Association (OTA)

OrganicCoupons.org

Origins Organics

OTA (Organic Trade Association)

OurHouse Heavy Duty Cleaner

oven cleaners, harmful chemicals

overseeding lawns

oxybenzone

oxygen bleach, household cleaners

P

pails (composting)

paint

lead

offgassing

Pal Dog

papayas, purchasing

parabens

particleboard, substitutes

Patagonia

PBDEs (polybrominated diphenyl ethers)

peaches

Dawn’s Peach-Blueberry Pie

purchasing

pears, purchasing

peas, purchasing

perchlorethylene

perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs)

personal care products

Deodorant

Eau de Cologne

Minty Toothpaste

organic personal care products

Toothpaste

pest control, organic gardens

pesto, Fresh Pesto, by Chantal Clabrough for SustainableTable.org

pet care products, organic pet care products

petrochemicals

PFCs (perfluorinated chemicals)

pH

phosphates

phthalates

pineapples, purchasing

Piperlime

PLA (polylactide) plastics

planning organic gardens

planting, companion planting

Plantskydd Deer Repellent

plasters

plastic resins

plasticizers

plastics, food storage

plywood substitutes

pollutants

body burden

health detriments

toxic air pollutants

toxic groundwater pollutants

toxic soil pollutants

polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDEs)

polylactide (PLA) plastics

polystyrene

polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastics

pork, purchasing

potatoes, purchasing

potting, organic gardening

poultry

Chicken Lickin’ Good Stock

Curried Chicken Kabobs

purchasing

PPD (p-phenylenediamine)

produce

fruits

apples

avocados

bananas

cherries

grapes

kiwi fruit

mangoes

nectarines

papayas

peaches

pears

pineapples

strawberries

purchasing

vegetables

asparagus

broccoli

cabbage

celery

corn

eggplant

lettuce

onions

peas

potatoes

spinach

sweet bell peppers

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastics

Q-R

Rainforest Alliance Certified labels

raised beds, organic gardens

raspberries, Holiday Harvest Salad

rBGH (recombinant bovine growth hormone)

reading labels

recipes

Asparagus with Citrus/Ginger Sauce

Basic Vinaigrette

Better Butter

Black Chocolate Cake

body care products

Aloe Vera Toner

Apple Skin Toner

Balm

Brown Sugar Body Scrub

Coffee Body Scrub

Cold Cream

Deodorant

Flake-Chaser Oil

Lube Ya

Minty Toothpaste

Salty Scrub

Sugar, Sugar Baby

Toothpaste

Watermelon Toner

Zingy Lemon Astringent

Braised Short Ribs of Beef with Turnips

Chicken Lickin’ Good Stock

Cole Slaw

Corn and Pepper Frittata with Salsa Verde

Creamy White Cheese

Crispy Date Roll-Ups

Curried Chicken Kabobs

Dawn’s Peach-Blueberry Pie

Family Apple Delight

fragrances, Eau de Cologne

Fresh Pesto

Grilled Summer Vegetables Mediterranean Style

hair care products

Basic Liquid Shampoo

Basic Liquid Shampoo

conditioners

Rinse Away

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Market Basil, Cucumber, and Grilled Sourdough

Holiday Harvest Salad

household cleaners

Baking Soda Blend

Baking Soda Paste

Basic Laundry Soap

Cream Cleanser

Macerated Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar and Mint

Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries, and Toasted Walnuts

Salsa Olé!

Whole Wheat Pasta with Tomatoes, Garlic, and Asiago Cheese

Zucchini Hummus

recombinant bovine growth hormone (rBGH)

recycled clothing, purchasing

recycled furniture, purchasing

recycled-content carpet

recycled-content tile

reproductive toxicity

resources, organic living

cost considerations

entry points

respiratory toxicity

rhizobia

Rinse Away

Rodale, Jerome

S

SafeLawns Million Acre Challenge

safflower oil

Saffron Rouge

Sahalie

salad dressings

Basic Vinaigrette

Fresh Pesto, by Chantal Clabrough for SustainableTable.org

salads

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Market Basil, Cucumber, and Grilled Sourdough

Holiday Harvest Salad

Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries, and Toasted Walnuts

Sally Hansen

Salmon-Safe certification

salons (organic)

Salsa Olé!

salt

Salty Scrub

Sam’s Club, organic food

sauces

Asparagus with Citrus/Ginger Sauce

Fresh Pesto, by Chantal Clabrough for SustainableTable.org

Salsa Olé!

Scoot Mole

scrubs

Brown Sugar Body Scrub

Coffee Body Scrub

Salty Scrub

Sugar, Sugar Baby

seafood, purchasing

seeding organic gardens

seeds, purchasing

semivolatile organic compounds (SVOCs)

sesame seed oil

Seventh Generation Natural All Purpose Cleaner

Shake Away Deer

Shake Away Small Critter

Shaklee Basic H2 Organic Super Cleaning Concentrate and Organic Super

shampoos (organic)

Basic Liquid Shampoo

Basic Liquid Shampoo

SharpShooter pest control

Shemittah

Shop Bop

Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides in Produce

shopping, organic food

cost considerations

labels

sourcing

third-party certifications

USDA certifications

side dishes

Asparagus with Citrus/Ginger Sauce

Cole Slaw

Grilled Summer Vegetables Mediterranean Style

Silent Spring

silk (organic)

SKAL certification

skin, absorption of chemicals

Skin Care Baby

Skin Deep

skin toxicity

SLES (sodium laureth sulfate)

SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate)

Smart Shopper’s Dirty Dozen Card (Green Guide)

snacks, purchasing

Snow, Keith

sodium carbonate

sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)

sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)

soil

organic gardening

composting

organic lawn maintenance

soil compaction

thatch

topdressing

Soil Association certification

soil compaction

soil pollutants

solubilizers

sourcing

organic beauty products

organic body care products

organic building materials

organic clothing and fabrics

organic food

organic furniture

spas (organic)

specialty markets, purchasing organic food

spinach, purchasing

spot removers, harmful chemicals

spreading compost

spreads, Better Butter

stain removers

harmful chemicals

organic stain removers

Steiner, Rudolf

Stewart+Brown

store brands, purchasing

storing organic food

strainers

strawberries

Macerated Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar and Mint

purchasing

strippers, offgassing

stucco

sugar

Sugar, Sugar Baby

sunflower oil

sunscreens (organic)

supermarkets, purchasing organic food

surface cleaners (organic)

creating

surfactants

sustainability

SVOCs (semivolatile organic compounds)

sweet almond oil

sweet bell peppers, purchasing

synthetic farming

synthetic goods

T

tea, purchasing

tea tree essential oil, household cleaners

Terressentials

thatch, soil

thermometers (composting)

third-party certifications

Thursday Plantation

Timberland

toilet bowl cleaners

harmful chemicals

organic toilet bowl cleaners

Tom’s of Maine

tomatoes

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Market Basil, Cucumber, and Grilled Sourdough

Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries, and Toasted Walnuts

Whole Wheat Pasta with Tomatoes, Garlic, and Asiago Cheese

toners

Aloe Vera Toner

Apple Skin Toner

Watermelon Toner

tools

composting

organic beauty products, creating

organic body care products, creating

Toothpaste

toothpaste (organic)

topdressing soil

Totally Organic

toxic air pollutants

toxic groundwater pollutants

toxic load (Earth), reducing

toxic soil pollutants

Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA)

toxicity levels, monitoring

trace elements, plants

Trader Joe’s, purchasing organic food

tree huggers, origins

Treehugger.com

TSCA (Toxic Substances Control Act)

turners (composting)

turnips, Braised Short Ribs of Beef with Turnips

U

Under the Canopy

upholstered furniture (organic)

USDA certifications

USDA Organic certification

used clothing, purchasing

used furniture, purchasing

V

vegetable glycerin

vegetable oils, purchasing

vegetable peelers

vegetables, purchasing

asparagus

broccoli

cabbage

celery

corn

eggplant

lettuce

onions

peas

potatoes

spinach

sweet bell peppers

Vermont Organic Fiber Company

Vermont Soapworks Liquid Sunshine Non-Toxic Cleaner

vinegar

vintage clothing, purchasing

vintage furniture, purchasing

vitamin E

VOCs (volatile organic compounds)

SVOCs (semivolatile organic compounds)

vodka

W

Wal-Mart

organic food

wallcoverings (organic), sourcing

walnuts, Market Greens with Feta Cheese, Grape Tomatoes, Dried Cranberries, and Toasted Walnuts

warm-season grasses

washing soda

water pollutants

watering lawns

Watermelon Toner

weeding lawns

Weleda

wet materials, compost heaps

White Apricot

white distilled vinegar, household cleaners

Whole Foods, organic food, purchasing

Whole Wheat Pasta with Tomatoes, Garlic, and Asiago Cheese

wine, purchasing

witch hazel

wool (organic)

X-Y-Z

xeriscaping

yard maintenance (organic)

feeding

IPM (integrated pest management)

mowing

overseeding

soil

soil compaction

thatch

topdressing

watering

weeding

Your Right to Know: Genetic Engineering and the Secret Changes in Your Food

zinc compounds

Zingy Lemon Astringent

Zosimos Botanicals

Zucchini Hummus